<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<item>
  <id>11967</id>
  <title>Another Excuse to Eat Chocolate</title>
  <published_at>Wed Nov 18 14:48:00 -0800 2009</published_at>
  <link>http://www.chow.com/stories/11967</link>
  <pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:48:00 GMT</pubDate>
  <short_description>Single-origin candy bars</short_description>
  <long_description>This week's mission: single-origin candy bars.</long_description>
  <img>http://www.chow.com/assets/2009/11/supertaster_aequare_inline.jpg</img>
  <author>James Norton</author>
  <category>
    <id>88</id>
    <name>Supertaster</name>
  </category>
  <pages>
    <page>
      <page_number>1</page_number>
      <content>
        <![CDATA[<p><a target="blank" href="http://www.chocolatetradingco.com/magazine.asp?section=1&#38;id=229"><i>Single origin</i></a> has long been a sexy marketing term for fancy food&#8212;the idea of the ingredients coming from one place, and reflecting the &#8220;terroir&#8221; of that place, has spread into coffee, tea, and even <a target="blank" href="http://www.reuters.com/article/pressRelease/idUS83653+21-Jul-2008+BW20080721">flavored syrups</a>.</p>


	<p>Aequare Fine Chocolates&#8217; single-origin-concept candy bars are made from Ecuadoran chocolate and cost $4 for a small bar &#8230; a price a surprisingly large number of people are willing to pay, according to <a target="blank" href="http://www.usatoday.com/life/lifestyle/2009-02-23-recession-comforts_N.htm">consumer trend reports</a>.</p>


	<p>That said, the &#8220;single origin&#8221; label on the bars is a bit mysterious. Some chocolate companies use the term to refer to beans harvested from a single plantation. Others use it to mean that their beans are from a single region or, in the loosest interpretation, a single country. In any case, saying something&#8217;s &#8220;single origin&#8221; is no guarantee of quality but does speak to an interest on the part of the producer to market to people who want to know where their food is from.</p>


	<p>According to Aequare, the company&#8217;s bars are single origin in that the beans can be sourced to the Los Ríos region of Ecuador; the 70 percent bars are made from beans that come from two farms within 15 miles of each other, run by the same farmer.</p>


	<p>But Aequare&#8217;s 55 percent bars are actually a blend of Ecuadoran Arriba and CCN-51 chocolate, the latter of which is often perceived as lesser quality.</p>


	<p>Jeff Stern, the brand&#8217;s chef-owner, says he &#8220;cannot be dictating specs to the grower for the blends I might want because I don&#8217;t have that kind of purchasing power to dictate formulas.&#8221;</p>


	<p>Regardless of origin concerns, the bars taste delicious. The 55% Single Origin Bar has a wonderful but not overdone sweetness, with a touch of honeylike flavor at the back&#8212;I think it would appeal to unreformed Hershey&#8217;s-lovers and chocolate snobs alike. The 70% Single Origin Bar has a nutty warmth without any dryness or other unpleasantly austere sensations (bitterness, chalkiness) that sometimes crop up at higher percentages.</p>


	<p>The lemongrass-flavored bar offers only a slight hint of citrus until the end, at which point there&#8217;s a clean and clear bolt of lemongrass. And the mandarin orange variety, easily a train wreck in the making, is a bit goofy but ultimately pleasing, like a gourmet version of the <a target="blank" href="http://www.squidoo.com/Terrys_Chocolate_Orange">Christmas whack-an-orange</a>, firm but not aggressive in its citric aftertaste. Pulling off a straight-up high-intensity chocolate bar is an achievement, but doing it with added flavors is quite an accomplishment.</p>]]>
      </content>
    </page>
  </pages>
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