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stories: Supertaster

Mama’s Goodies

I Paid: $4.99 per 4-ounce bag (prices may vary by region)

Taste: 4stars

Marketing: 4stars

Supertaster

A Candy Upgrade

High-end nut brittle

By James Norton

Mama’s Goodies represent a novel twist on a candy that most Americans would consider a national treasure: These nut brittles were actually inspired by an “old-world Iranian recipe” from a mother-daughter team of immigrants. Each variety has only eight to ten ingredients (stuff like honey, maple syrup, nuts, sugar, and, yes, corn syrup), and the components yield a simple and pleasing end product.

Sesame Seed Nut Crunch is the best; the sesame flavor comes through with a purity and intensity that is surprising. Although there’s a sugary brittle coating, the seeds drive the flavor.

Cashew Nut Crunch is less interesting—the nut’s mild flavor is hidden beneath the sweet, honey-boosted taste of the brittle. The pecan variety fares better: After the same overwhelming brittle attack, the natural rolling, earthy, smoked nuttiness of the pecans battles back and asserts itself.

Almond Nut Crunch is dominated by a pleasant, lightly burnt caramel flavor. And Macadamia & Coconut Nut Crunch tastes like an effortless success, the clean, light macadamia flavor dominating each bite, with a natural coconut chaser bringing up the back half of the experience, a perfect complement to the sweet, nutty opener.

If you’re a brittle fan who’s seen and eaten the usual suspects, Mama’s Goodies are a swell way to take things to the next level.

James Norton edits the Upper Midwestern food journal Heavy Table. He's also the coauthor of a book on Wisconsin's master cheesemakers. His Supertaster column, in which he samples offerings from supermarket aisles and fast-food menus, appears on CHOW.com most Mondays and Thursdays. His wife, Becca Dilley, takes the photographs for Supertaster. She specializes in weddings and food photography, and is the coauthor of and photographer for the book on Wisconsin's master cheesemakers.

Published November 04, 2009

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