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The Ten

10 Meads You Should Try

It’s not just for jousting tournaments anymore

By Lessley Anderson and Roxanne Webber

Until recently, the only people who drank mead went to Renaissance Faires. But fermented-honey wine is no longer just for damsels in braids. Mead, which dates back to ancient Egypt, is landing on the menus of great restaurants (the French Laundry no less), and sparking interest among people looking to drink, sell, and produce rustic, regional beverages. According to Mike Faul of Rabbit’s Foot Meadery, there were about four commercial U.S. mead makers when he started 15 years ago, and now there are 80 and counting. The definition of mead is loose: It can contain everything from hops to raspberries, can be sweet or dry, carbonated or still. CHOW tasted a lineup of domestic meads and picked our favorites. Here are our notes, in order of dry to sweet.

HoneyMaker Dry Mead California Orange Blossom Melia

1Nectar of the Hops, Redstone Meadery, Boulder, Colorado. Lightly carbonated, dry, and refreshing; the hops make themselves known more in the spicy aroma than in the flavor. A good alternative to champagne: “Brunch-a-rific!” was one taster’s comment. This Colorado meadery is a leader in experimental meads.

2HoneyMaker Dry Mead, Maine Mead Works, Portland, Maine. An extremely easy-drinking mead with a shockingly clean and dry finish. It smells intensely of honey and beeswax, but the flavors are subtle. You could probably get away with swapping out a Riesling or Muscat Blanc for this mead—it’s by far the most winelike of the bunch, with a subtle honey flavor and a hint of apples. One of the most food-friendly meads we’ve tried.

3Madras Carrot Blossom, Heidrun Meadery, Arcata, California. First spotted on the menu of the great San Francisco gastropub Magnolia, this golden-colored Humboldt mead is almost champagne-like: fizzy, tangy, and dry, with a pleasantly yeasty, chestnutty nose. It was a favorite of one of our tasters, who has consumed it on multiple occasions and reports that it’s a crowd-pleaser. The meadery also makes other single-source varietals, available online.

4California Orange Blossom, Heidrun Meadery, Arcata, California. We enjoyed Heidrun’s carrot blossom mead so much that we wanted to try more of the meadery’s offerings. Like the carrot blossom, this is also made in the méthode champenoise. Heidrun does the real deal: tirage, riddling, disgorgement, etc. This gives the mead tons of tiny, tight, vigorous bubbles. This would be a perfect starter mead: It has a true honey flavor, but it’s light, drinkable, and leaves you wanting a second glass. It kind of reminds us of a shandy, but made by mixing a heavier mead with a light lager beer.

5Apple Cyser, Rabbit’s Foot Meadery, Sunnyvale, California. Cyser is a type of honey wine dating back to the Middle Ages that’s mixed with apple juice. This version is citrusy and tart, like a light-bodied, noncarbonated hard cider. It would pair well with pork. The well-regarded Rabbit’s Foot Meadery also makes an excellent mead with raspberries.

6Sierra Nectar Wildflower Mead, Mountain Meadows Mead, Westwood, California. With its massively sweet, fruity nose (one taster remarked that it “smelled like strawberries”), this mead is lighter and drier on the palate than you might expect. It has a slightly yeasty aftertaste, and would be good paired with blue cheese.

7Scheherazade, Celestial Meads, Anchorage, Alaska. Besides being a character from One Thousand and One Nights, Scheherazade is also the name of a style of fruity, spiced mead. Sweet and rosy-amber-colored, this version tastes of clove, cardamom, cinnamon, pomegranate, and plum. It would be good served hot, like a mulled wine. At a recent mead-pairing dinner at SubZero Microlounge in Anchorage, it was reduced in a sauce for fennel-encrusted lamb chops.

8Moonlight Magic Mead, Mountain Meadows Mead, Westwood, California. A sweet but balanced still mead with a strong cinnamon nose and a fresh honey flavor. One taster thought it would be “great with some salty cheese.”

9Orange Blossom, B. Nektar Meadery, Ferndale, Michigan. Earthy to the max, this oak-aged mead from Michigan has a funky barnyard aroma that was off-putting for some of the less adventurous tasters, but alluring for fans of stinky cheeses and weird Belgian beer. Sweet up front, it finishes on the dry side. Good for aging.

10Melia, Rabbit’s Foot Meadery, Sunnyvale, California. Light, smooth, and crisp like an ice wine, this orange blossom mead is sweet but balanced with a citrusy honey nose. This is the one they served at the French Laundry last year. It would pair well with a dessert course, and comes in an elegant bottle that would make a nice wedding or hostess gift.

CHOW’s The Ten column appears every Tuesday.

Published October 27, 2009

Comments

Just to clarify, Meads are honey wines and are defined pretty clearly, that is unless your talkin to the TTB.
Basically if 51% of the ferment-able sugars are from Honey, they can be considered Meads, whether it still or sparkling.
The beauty of mead is that it ferments so well with other sugars (fruit,herbs, or what every you want to add).
Making mead at home is relatively easy, compared to beers, and loads of fun and a great gift to boot :)
There are a few great resources on the web. just search for mead!
Just be ready to practice alot of patience... meads generally take months, if not years to reach their prime.

WASSAIL!

I became a big fan of mead about a year ago when I met a local man who makes and markets mead 20mi from my house, and they are absolutely delicious http://www.magpiemead.com/

A great source for mead is the White Winter Winery, located in Iron River, Wisconsin.

These are all local, but if you get the chance try lindisfarne Meade from England! It is amazing!

http://www.lindisfarnemead.com/

As the first comment suggests. There are literally dozens of styles of mead. Single types of honey, blended honey, honey and fruit, honey and malt etc. I have a little meadery down i nthe southbay that will give you a free tasting of a dozen or so styles.

http://www.rabbitsfootmeadery.com

Proper mead is brewed according to the cycle of the moon, and gave its name to 'honeymoon', because couples used to drink mead for a full month after getting married in the hope of conceiving a boy. Seven Sheds Brewery's meads are brewed this way and taste brilliant. If you're in Australia, check them out! http://www.sevensheds.com/index.html

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