<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<item>
  <id>11828</id>
  <title>Chicken in a Burger Suit</title>
  <published_at>Fri Aug 28 15:55:00 -0700 2009</published_at>
  <link>http://www.chow.com/stories/11828</link>
  <pubDate>Fri, 28 Aug 2009 22:55:00 GMT</pubDate>
  <short_description>Chicken Grillables and Wheat Thins Artisan Cheese Crackers</short_description>
  <long_description>This week's mission: preseasoned, grillable chicken patties and fancified crackers.</long_description>
  <img>http://www.chow.com</img>
  <author>James Norton</author>
  <category>
    <id>88</id>
    <name>Supertaster</name>
  </category>
  <pages>
    <page>
      <page_number>1</page_number>
      <content>
        <![CDATA[<p><a target="blank" href="http://www.barberfoods.com/retail_prod_pop/retailPROD.asp?PID=1640&#38;CID=3"><strong>Chicken Grillables</strong></a>
<img src="/assets/2009/08/supertaster_chicken_grillables_inline1.jpg" border="0" />
By: Barber Foods
I Paid: $6.99 for four 4-ounce patties (prices may vary by region)
Taste: 4
Marketing: 4</p>


	<p>The concept behind Chicken Grillables: a chicken version of the standard American frozen burger patty. The Grillables are less fatty (140 calories each), and are conveniently sized and shaped for a hamburger bun. And yes, indeed, they&#8217;re a good way to vary your backyard barbecue options. However, you may want to keep your guests away from the grill to shield them from the unsavory visuals.</p>


	<p>When cooking, the Grillables have a tendency to exude a white, runny substance. This turns out to be a solution of rice starch and water injected into each of these breast- and rib-meat chicken patties to keep them moist. Yes, it sounds terrible, and nobody likes to think about stuff he&#8217;s planning to eat being injected with anything. However, the cooked patties don&#8217;t taste half bad. They&#8217;re tender and well seasoned with a surprisingly natural assortment of herbs and spices (according to the label, they contain salt, onion and garlic powder, parsley, black pepper, paprika, and natural smoke flavor).</p>


	<p>So, Chicken Grillables are actually not that gnarly; it&#8217;s just that they emit this slightly foamy white stuff that looks vaguely like melted cheese. It&#8217;s the darnedest thing. My take on it: If this water–rice starch injection gives the patties a nice texture and keeps them moist, hell, go for it. But maybe someone should work on the leakage problem down the road.</p>


	<p>===</p>


	<p><a href="http://www.nabiscoworld.com/wheatthins/" target="blank"><strong>Wheat Thins Artisan Cheese Crackers</strong></a>
<img src="/assets/2009/08/supertaster_wheat_thins_inline2.jpg" border="0" />
By: Nabisco
I Paid: $3.19 for an 8-ounce box (prices may vary by region)
Taste: 4
Marketing: 4</p>


	<p>Can a major corporation mass-produce a snack food and put the word <em>artisan</em> on it? Why not? We&#8217;re living in a brave new world of branding, where everything is &#8220;artisanal,&#8221; &#8220;premium,&#8221; or &#8220;gourmet.&#8221; With Nabisco&#8217;s new Wheat Thins Artisan Cheese Crackers, the consumer can choose between Vermont White Cheddar (a.k.a. white cheese) and Wisconsin Colby (a.k.a. yellow cheese). As far as I can tell, the crackers are &#8220;artisan&#8221; simply because they use actual cheese, and they taste like it, too.</p>


	<p>(A bit of trivia about Colby: Along with brick cheese, it&#8217;s an original Wisconsin variety that, thanks to some very poorly thought-through deregulation in the 1980s, has become a watered-down version of itself. If you want real Colby, there are some master makers&#8212;Joe Widmer near Milwaukee, for one&#8212;who can give you a sense of its old soulful flavor and pleasingly latticelike texture. But typically, it&#8217;s indistinguishable from commodity cheddar.)</p>


	<p>Taste-wise, the Wisconsin Colby cracker has more <em>umami</em> and flavor than the Vermont White Cheddar, which has a nice initial bite of sharpness, but one that quickly recedes into the surrounding taste of sweetened wheat; the Colby variety is more committed to its cheesy taste. Both, however, do a nice job of paying tribute to real cheese flavor.</p>


	<p>So, did an actual artisan labor over these things by hand? Almost certainly not. Would I eat them? Yes.</p>]]>
      </content>
    </page>
  </pages>
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      <name>supermarket</name>
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