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The Juice
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Your Morning CocktailShaking up an early drink can get the blood flowing again |
I biked home the other morning from the farmers’ market carefully transporting a $10 carton of freshly laid farm eggs. It was a lot to pay, I know, but they were so perfectly large, such a lovely sandy brown color, and I was so … thirsty. Indeed, my splurge was in the service of the perfect morning cocktail, not an omelet. I was already imagining the 11 a.m. Ramos Gin Fizz I would greet my wife with.
Whether it’s the recession, the lazy summer mornings, or my advancing age, I’m not sure, but breakfast cocktails have been making a resurgence in my weekend routine. For most people the breakfast cocktail begins with the Mimosa and ends with the Bloody Mary, with very little in between. But there’s actually a great, wide world of morning drinks out there. As David Wondrich writes in Imbibe!, “much of the cocktail’s development was intimately connected to the search for a better hangover cure. In an age before aspirin, Advil or morphine … this quest was not an unreasonable one.” Hence, terms like eye opener and drinks with names like the Corpse Reviver 2 (made with gin, Lillet, lemon, Cointreau, and pastis—a fabulous, strong cocktail).
The secret to a good breakfast drink is that its flavors have to be as bright as the daylight you’re getting up to. A dusky glass of whiskey or a shot of tequila doesn’t make the cut—that just seems sad. There should be sharp flavors and strong spirits. It should involve some amount of labor and preparation—after all, the activity of making the drink is a good waking-up exercise on its own.
One of my favorite morning drinks is the Morning Glory Fizz. It has strength—whiskey and absinthe—and brightness from lemon juice. And it has an egg white for lightness, creaminess, and that unmistakable ethereal morning feeling. And the fresher the eggs, the fluffier the foam: This drink makes a lovely reward for an early, beat-the-crowds visit to the farmers’ market.
Morning Glory Fizz
1 1/2 ounces Scotch whisky (preferably a blend like Dewar’s, not a single malt)
3/4 ounce fresh lemon juice
1 ounce simple syrup
1/4 ounce absinthe or pastis
1 egg white
Place all ingredients in a mixing glass. Fill with ice and shake for a healthy 20 to 30 seconds to get a good foam from the egg. Strain into a highball glass and fill with 2 ounces of chilled seltzer.
Egg cocktails need a dry shake first before you add the ice. Add the ingredients, shake, then add the ice and shake again.
I don't say this to be judgmental at all, but I just can't wrap my mind around the idea of having alcohol first thing in the morning. I've tried it a few times and it just feels so very, very wrong to me. Perhaps it's from years of social guilt conditioning - I don't know - but every time I've had a mimosa with my breakfast I couldn't help but imagine my mother standing over me and tut-tutting with disapproval (as horribly pathetic as that sounds).
My GF in the 90s loved her Sunday a.m. Bloody Mary (w/ 100 proof) while lounging with the Times. I found that the morning cocktail usually led to a second and a third. Afterward, the obligatory late morning nap to metabolize same resulted in a sluggish afternoon, decreased drive to do anything constructive and, in short, a wasted day. After we broke up, the weekend habit had to go.
There was a reason for starting cocktail hour at 5 p.m. rather than 5 a.m.
CP
The booze with breakfast thing notwithstanding, an 83¢ egg, of which only the white is used, and the flavor masked with scotch, lemon juice and absinthe? My plebeian background must be kicking in, because I just don't get it.
Hope the yolk was put to a good use.
When you start needing morning cocktails it's not a sign of "advancing age," it's a sign of alcoholism.
So many Carrie Nations on this list! Whenever I stayed at John Wayne's old house in Acapulco, Antonio, the wonderful houseman, set out a delectable tray every morning. I would enjoy it after a refreshing swim in the pool that overlooked the ocean, and just steps from my bedroom. Antonio would place an assortment of pastries, a hot pot of strong Mexican coffee, sugar and evaporated milk , a bottle of Bacardi Anejo Rum and a bottle of Kahlua. This was for the early risers. A more substantial breakfast came later after everyone was gathered. Straight out of the pool, lounging on the veranda, nibbling on bolillos and pan dulce, sipping sweet strong coffee laced with a splash of dark rum and gazing at the ocean -- a lovely way to begin any day.
With apologies to Loudon Wainwright III
Absinthe makes the heart grow fonder
And the mind begin to wander
I'm not a Carrie Nation by any means, but a morning cocktail for me would invariably lead to a four-hour late morning nap.
Also, when my friend in Florida started up with the morning cocktails it was because she woke up with the shakes and only a drink would stop them. She soon thereafter successfully completed rehab.
Oh- I see I'm echoing Chefpaulo's comments pretty closely. Well, it's true.
Obviously, anyone needing a drink every morning to stop the shakes has an alcohol problem. For the rest of us, a civilized Sunday morning cocktail is a happy indulgence and a respite from the grim, Protestant grind of American life.
In my hometown of New Orleans, morning drinks such as the Ramos Gin Fizz, Brandy Milk Punch, and Absinthe Suissesse are an old, old tradition. Long may they wave.
Nice article, Mr. McKay. Will have to try your Morning Glory Fizz!
True that. But it's not for everybody.
I don't think there was anything in Mr. McKay's piece to suggest that he was prescribing for the nation.
Probably not, given his career choice, and thanks for pointing that out. McKay writes about wines and spirits and is probably very careful in his personal life AND his writing when he prescribes for the nation.
I'd be a lot more productive in the morning if I started out with a big snootful of cocaine, but I don't. Life isn't so horrible that I need to escape from it on the weekends by waking up to a big strong, complex, yummy-sounding cocktail. I'm not condemning the idea.
I would argue that anyone willing to shake cream, sugar, egg white, citrus juice, orange flower water, and one ounce of gin for three to five minutes at 11:00 a.m. on a Sunday is motivated more by pleasure than need. To compare a weekend Ramos Gin Fizz to a snootful of cocaine seems a bit over the top. (And since when is productivity the goal of a lazy weekend cocktail?)
In any case, people clearly have strong feelings about when or if to imbibe. Fair enough. I found Mr. McKay's piece lighthearted and enjoyable, and will leave it at that.
I see more of a similarity than you do. I'll leave it at that.
You're not anti-cocktails, so your touchiness is confusing. I don't think anyone here champions substance abuse.
BrooksNYC
Bravo!! Tho, I am South born and bred, I do agree with your Yankee view of this post. Then I noticed your NOLA upbringing and forgive the NYC part. I am a lady of seventy who has long enjoyed a morning Ramos Gin Fizz during her morning shower and applaud you on your civilized posts. Neither my husband nor I have a need to imbibe every shower; but, on occasion we both have said to hell with the yolk and downed our Fizz.
Yes, Mr. McKay - an enjoyable and delightful article I shall forward to many friends who enjoy a morning luxury. I shall enjoy your newsletters in the future.
Two more Ramos fans!
In the last ten years, there's been a resurgence of interest in well-crafted, classic cocktails. It tickles me to hear people rave about their latest "discovery" — the Sazerac or the Ramos Gin Fizz!
Yayajac, you might enjoy this article about Henry Ramos from the 1928 Times-Picayune:
http://chanticleersociety.org/wikis/c...
I doubt we'll hear from Mr. McKay, but I wonder if he has a preference for absinthe over pastis in his Morning Glory Fizz, and if so, which absinthe he prefers? The combination of ingredients is so intriguing........I can't imagine what it tastes like.
Anyway, Yayajac, cheers to you and the Mister!
Great article - I didn't know that the RGF originated in New Orleans. Mr. Ramos was indeed a gentlemen's gentleman.
To the author, Mr. Mackay, I apologize for mispelling your name above and will eagerly await more of your stories.
Ditto, Mr. Mackay. Sorry about the misspelling.
Brooks NYC - I do beleive I will be needing more specific amounts and a name to your delightful sounding suggestion.
I'm pregnant with my first child and have been mentally preparing a list of things to enjoy post-delivery (end of September). Alcohol is given heavy consideration for no other reason that I have gone without the taste for so long. I don't enjoy drinking to extremes - did enough of that as a university student - and just want the occaisonal 'treat' to make the day a little more special.
And Divalicias - those mornings sound like perfection to me!
How nice to have a new family member on the way, Ms Fab! Congrats to you and the hubby!
Here's your celebratory Ramos Gin Fizz:
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Ramos Gin Fizz
You can find orange flower water in Middle Eastern grocery stores, but it's worth seeking out a French brand, such as A. Monteux. Amazon carries it if you can't find it elsewhere.
Use plain seltzer or carbonated water. Club soda is too salty.
Use heavy (not whipping) cream for proper emulsification. This drink is an occasional treat, so never mind substituting milk. If you're having a Ramos, do it right!
1 1/2 ounces Tanqueray gin
1 1/2 ounces heavy cream
3-6 drops orange flower water. (Start with 3 drops the first time you try this recipe. 4-6 drops makes for a more floral drink.)
1 fresh pasteurized egg white
2-3 teaspoons powdered or superfine sugar, or to taste
1/2 ounce fresh lemon juice, strained (3 teaspoons)
1/2 ounce fresh lime juice, strained (3 teaspoons)
1 drop vanilla extract (optional, not traditional)
Orange slice
1/2 cup ice, coarsely cracked
Plain seltzer or carbonated water
If shaking entirely by hand, it's recommended that you shake ingredients vigorously WITHOUT ice until well-emulsified (at least a minute), then add ice and continuing shaking for at least three minutes more.
OR you can take a modern shortcut, which is to dry-blend the ingredients (i.e. without ice) until the mixture is thick and airy — about 30-60 seconds. Then pour the blended mixture into a shaker with cracked ice and shake for another 15 seconds to chill.
Strain into a chilled Collins glass. Top with a splash of chilled sparkling water, and garnish with an orange slice, if desired.
Hope you enjoy it!
BrooksNYC: does the pasteurized white do anything a normal egg white wouldn't texturally? Aside from the natural antibacterial properties of egg whites, starting the drink off with just the egg and gin would surely kill anything in them, as alcohol is a very effective disinfectant.
I grew up in a family that was very conservative about alcohol. I was visiting the home of a college friend and, on Sunday morning, the household help put out a gorgeous spread of fruits and baked goods -- accompanied with a pitcher of fresh orange juice, a bottle of vodka and a bottle of champagne.
My friend's mother invited me to have "an eye-opener" with them. I thought it was the most deliciously decadent thing I'd ever done.
After cocktails and a small bite, everyone made their way into the pool. That was very bracing after the warm "comfort" of a Screwdriver before 12 noon.
To this day I'll have an "eye opener" if I'm relaxing on a Saturday or Sunday. But I'll tell you, the most trouble I'll go through is "building" a perfect bloody mary. I wouldn't have the patience to make Ramos Gin Fizz nor any of the other delightful New Orleans standards.
I agree with a poster above that in a cocktail like that, you can not possibly taste the difference of the farm fresh egg.
With regard to morning cocktails, if you are having them more frequently then once a month or so, you might want to check into rehab.