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Clay Potatoes and Olive Pit Fuel

By Aïda Mollenkamp

Consider it a year’s worth of culinary trend-spotting over the course of a week. There was mullet liver, there was smoke, there was olive pit fuel: The Madrid Fusión food conference, now in its sixth year, delivered on all the mad-scientist chef expectations. It also emphasized camaraderie and artistic freedom; that chefs need to support and understand, rather than critique, one another (possibly in reaction to last year’s outburst from Santi Santamaria).

Like the 2007 conference, I was there to meet, greet, explore, and marvel at the latest techniques and technologies. The chefs, meanwhile, see Fusión as a time to get out of the kitchen, contrast and compare, and offer encouragement. Above all, the emphasis this year was on each chef striving to make his or her food a reflection of personality and experience, because without that, food lacks passion and meaning. Throughout the love-fest (and eating-fest), I found some things I can’t wait to see more of, some I’m happy to still see around, and others I’d be happy to never see again. Here’s the rundown.

On the rise »
Edible clay, honey bubbles,
and smoke

Keep it »
The Scandinavians, the women,
and the dust

Kill it »
Boring tableware, premeasured
salt, and Emeril

Photographs by John Sconzo

Published February 22, 2008

Comments

The Madrid Fusión conference sounds (and looks) fantastic. For those interested in René Redzepi, he will be traveling to Los Gatos to cook with David Kinch at Manresa on July12 & 13.

I'm looking to purchase MALLAFRE Olive Oil. It's a brand from Spain with several versions like pressed with oranges, lemons, rosemary etc.It was a very nice idea! Just wanna say thank you for the information you have shared. Just continue writing this kind of post. I will be your loyal reader. Thanks again.
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