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Something Orange

The mysteries of Triple Sec and curaçao

By Jordan Mackay

Orange is one of my favorite cocktail flavors. When I cut an orange peel for a cocktail and the oils spray into the air, my nostrils instinctively flare and my mind snaps to attention. Fresh juice adds sweetness, tartness, and a good dose of bright acid. But fresh ingredients haven’t always been as in vogue as they are now, and many cocktails get their orange flavor from a sweetened spirit.

Knowing what sort of orange-flavored liqueur to buy is not easy. There are tons on the market and they come in different colors, strengths, prices, and shades of flavor. Some call themselves Triple Sec, some orange liqueurs, and some curaçao.

Triple Sec and curaçao are just catchall terms for orange-flavored liqueur; there aren’t any official and well-policed definitions of the terms. Some people consider Triple Sec a type of curaçao, while others say that curaçao is a subset of Triple Sec. The major difference seems to be that Triple Secs are generally uncolored, while curaçaos come in neon shades from a frightening deep blue to a bright Tang-like orange. There are lots of generic and suspiciously cheap versions of both on the market.

When it comes to high-quality orange spirits, basically the choices are Cointreau and Grand Marnier. Though both are brandy-based and often spoken about interchangeably, they are very different. Cointreau is clear and, according to Ted “Dr. Cocktail” Haigh’s book Vintage Spirits & Forgotten Cocktails, it’s “the first and best Triple Sec. ... Use generic Triple Sec only if you are short on cash.” (However, Combier also claims to be the original and evidently has been around since 1834, while Cointreau only since 1875.) Cointreau is notable for its bright, almost shrill flavors of orange peel. Grand Marnier—called “the grandma” by bartenders—employs mellowed, aged Cognac and carries the colors and rich vanilla-spice flavor of oak-barrel aging.

The flavor differences between the two suggest vastly different uses in cocktails. For distinction, let’s look at the Sidecar, the famous cocktail calling traditionally for Cognac, Cointreau, and lemon juice. It’s a great bright drink, with lemon and orange notes underscored with the nutty, figgy flavors of the brandy. You might think that substituting Grand Marnier for Cointreau would be a natural fit—after all, the round, rich flavors of the grandma mirror the flavors of the brandy. But I think that cocktail tastes flat. Rather, the brightness of the Cointreau lifts the drink, like a tent post lifts a tent. That’s not to say that Grand Marnier isn’t a wonderful mixer (try the delicious Yellow Daisy), and it’s certainly better to sip on its own.

There are a couple of newish orange liqueurs on the market worth knowing about. Both are rum-based, which is sensible, since the orange peels for every major orange liqueur come from rum country, be it Curaçao itself or other islands such as Haiti. Santa Teresa distillery, in Venezuela, is one of the world’s best rum producers, and it has directed its talents to an orange liqueur. It’s a beautiful blend of layers of orange flavor with notes of spice, pepper, and burnished brown sugar. It’s a great sipper. I also like to stir it with another dark rum and some bitters for a sort of rum Manhattan. Créole Shrubb from the Martinique distillery Rhum Clément is another new one. It uses dried orange peels from Curaçao as well as spices including vanilla, cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg, and its flavor is bright and clean with sweet, complex aromatics. It’s a superior mixer and can either stand in for something like Cointreau in, say, a margarita or a Cosmopolitan, or bring an extra spiciness to the drink. It also makes a fine addition to hot chocolate.

Jordan Mackay is a San Francisco–based wine and spirits specialist whose work has appeared in publications such as Gourmet, the Los Angeles Times, Food & Wine, and Decanter. His Juice column appears most Thursdays.

Published February 13, 2008

Comments

Hello,

Details about some cordials:
- Cointreau is not brandy based. It's made from neutral alcohol (grain...), and that's why it's crystal color.
- Grand Marnier is made from cognac.

Did you already enjoy a glass of Cointreau neat?
I tasted it and...brrrrrrrrrrr... For me it's just a flavored vodka, adding some flavors to a cocktail, but mainly just alcohol base.

I will never use such an expensive triple sec, and would more go for one at half the price.

Cheers!

While I agree with you, Jordan (and politely disagree with "Coster"), that Cointreau is the best Triple Sec -- and worth the price -- Coster is absolutely correct that Cointreau has no brandy in it. Cointreau is a brand of Triple Sec liqueur; Grand Marnier is a liqueur, but it is NOT a Triple Sec -- rather a blend of Triple Sec and Cognac. Mandarine Napoleon is another example.

When Edouard Cointreau first sold the liqueur, it was sold under the name "Triple Sec White Curaçao," but as more and more producers began using the term "Triple Sec" for their own distillates, the name was changed to Cointreau.

You may want to check out:
-- http://www.cointreau.com/22i/the-hous...
-- http://www.grandmarnier.com/EnUs/?sec...
-- http://www.mandarine-napoleon.com/ind...

Cheers,
Jason

So if I want to make an excellent Margarita - not frozen, no salt for me - which do I want?

Hi Jason,
So you drink Cointreau neat? you enjoy it?
Did you compare with orange vodka?
;-)

Yes they are all triple sec, but you have 2 styles: brandy based and others (made just in few hours). So usualy people call GM "a premium triple sec".
FYI http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triple_sec
Combier was the first in 1834, Cointreau came in 1875, Grand Marnier in 1880, Mandarine Napoleon in 1892.

Cheers!

Cointreau tastes NOTHING like orange-flavored vodka.

Coster, I'm not sure what you're getting at with comparing Cointreau to orange vodka. I mean, you could also say gin is a botanically enhanced vodka. Also, I noticed a HUGE difference in taste when mixed into, for example, a Sidecar.

Also, the people who call GM a triple sec, without any other qualifications to that statement, are flat out wrong. Are you honestly citing Wiki as a reliable source, or is that a joke?

Neutral alcohol = vodka = no flavor
then some vodka add flavor

For sure they is a real difference in a sidecar, as cointreau and grand marnier as SOOOOOO different!

I cite wiki as a exemple of use of triple sec for GM.
Did you already have a margarita? a cosmo? I hope so... in most menus you see triple sec in the recipe, and you can choose from triple sec, cointreau, grand marnier...
So how do you call GM?

My absolute favorite would have to be the Grand Marnier Cent Cinquantenaire Lalique Decanter Orange Liqueur. The only problem is the $1,200 price tag........ worth it when given to me as a gift.

James Edwards
The Fruit Scientist
<a href="http://www.halegroves.com">Or...

The worst drink is the 99 Orange Schnapps, sadly it's worth every penny......

James Edwards
The Fruit Scientist
http://www.halegroves.com

Prunier Liquer d'Orange is my favorite orange liquer. Prunier is a quality cognac house and so their brandy base is definitely above average. This cordial is rich, intense and complex plus it makes the best margaritas.

What do you think?

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