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stories: Nagging Question

What Makes Cheddar Cheese Sharp?

By Roxanne Webber

The nutty tang is so good

What makes cheddar cheese taste sharp?

The terms sharp and mild refer to the flavor of cheddar cheese. The sharper the cheddar, the more tangy and complex it will taste. Marianne Smukowski, who heads up safety and quality applications at the Wisconsin Center for Dairy Research, says the term sharp is a marketing phrase that doesn’t coincide with any guidelines or grades within the U.S. dairy industry. She says sharp cheddar is simply an aged piece of cheese, probably six to nine months old, while extra-sharp cheddar is likely one-and-a-half to two years old.

Joe Widmer, a Wisconsin cheesemaker whose six-year-old cheddar placed first in the 2007 American Cheese Society awards, says “the older [the cheese] gets, the more the bacteria produce enzymes that break down its fats and proteins. The process produces compounds that give the distinct cheddar flavors—almost beefy and nutty. I know people that get a supersharp piece of cheddar and compare it to a piece of meat or steak.”

Marc Druart, a master cheesemaker at the Vermont Institute for Artisan Cheese, adds that the starter cultures, salt, and moisture content of the cheese have to be balanced for it to age properly. Each variable affects the breakdown of the fats and proteins—which form the compounds that give the cheese a sharp taste (aldehydes and alpha-keto acids) and other flavors (esters).

“As any cheesemaker will tell you, this is not an exact science,” says John Spencer, managing director of the Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company in Somerset, England. “If we were to use our exact recipe, methods, equipment, and even the same people, but change our location and source of milk, we would make a slightly different cheese.”

Roxanne Webber is an associate editor at CHOW.

Published January 31, 2008

Comments

interesting article but way to short

Brilliant.

Simple and straight-forward.

Well said Joe.
(His cheddar is outstanding!)

And don't forget, your yellow cheddar is
simply colored with annatto.

Hmmmm ... am I the only one who think they didn't really answer the question? They explained *why* cheddar cheese tastes sharp, but not *what* makes it taste "sharp" -- in other words, what specific compounds give it that unique cheddar quality that is "sharp" (many years ago a friend asked me to bring home some cheese from Vermont "so sharp it made your mouth pucker") and not just "complex" or "meaty," which could describe a lot of aged cheeses?

This is great - one of those questions I didn't realize I wanted the answer to until I read it. :) One cheddar question in my life centers around the fact that my boyfriend keeps strict kosher and I don't. While I understand his desire for kosher-certification, the kosher cheeses out there are mostly a lot of processed junk. But there are some solid options (including lots of cheddars) that we can both agree on - I created a guide to Kosher Organic Cheese over at The Jew & The Carrot blog. Check it out here:

http://jcarrot.org/resources/kosher-o...

Leah
Editor, The Jew & The Carrot

Ruth -- the answer says "Each variable affects the breakdown of the fats and proteins—which form the compounds that give the cheese a sharp taste (aldehydes and alpha-keto acids) and other flavors (esters)."

Thanks Leah, since the problem there is animal rennet it is also a useful resource for strict vegetarians.

I have a friend in France who keeps strictly kosher and has always served us exquisite cheeses, though I don't believe cheddar (which would be imported from England there) was among them.

That is a great site, by the way. L'chaim!

What do you think?

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