The Juice
Ginning Up the Gin Market
Is the gin renaissance a false phenomenon?
I grew up with a taste for gin. My parents, who had their nightly G&T on summer evenings, often gave me a sip or even a minicocktail of my own (very heavy on the tonic). Their gin was Tanqueray, from the big green bottle. My friends, though, did not share my taste for the spirit. It was popular in the ’80s and ’90s to have a visceral distaste for gin; I suppose I was witnessing the coming-of-age of Generation Vodka. Today, when I work behind the bar, I come across a broader tolerance for gin, but I can’t say I’ve noticed much enthusiasm for it. The excuse I’ve heard several times as to why a customer won’t drink it is—I kid you not—“Gin makes me sad. Somehow I always get depressed when I drink gin.”
Looking at the shelves of a good liquor store today, though, you’d think that gin is one of the hottest products on the market. In the last couple of years there has been a boom of new brands, both big and small, from Broker’s, Bulldog, and Martin Miller’s to boutique American brands like Sarticious, Bluecoat, Cascade Mountain, Aviation, No. 209, Spruce, and the gins from Chicago’s North Shore Distillery. And those represent only a fraction of what’s out there. Many are not traditional, London dry styles (like Tanqueray) but “flavored” gins in which the staple juniper flavor is knocked to the background and other elements, like lavender, pine, and citrus, come to the fore. The definition of gin is broad, but it’s always made from a neutral spirit (a vodka) and the lead flavor has to be juniper. The press has caught on to all this gin-making, declaring a gin explosion.
The danger for the gin market is that low quality in some of the new boutique offerings will actually turn people away. I’ve tasted muddy and discordant flavors in a few of the newer gins, due either to a poorly chosen mix of botanicals or to improper infusion or distillation. In others I’ve noted the heat from too much or unintegrated alcohol. It’s not easy to craft a great gin. Anchor Distilling, which produces the boutique Junípero, runs an exacting operation, and the distilleries of classic brands like England’s Plymouth put a lot of effort into sourcing the juniper, the citrus peels, and all the other botanicals. Beefeater master distiller Desmond Payne regularly visits Umbria to check in with the juniper foragers who source his product.
According to figures from the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States, gin sales by volume showed a 4.2 percent growth between 2005 and 2006, but that’s only because sales had dropped the previous three years. The actual growth from 2002 to 2006 was a modest 1 percent; the reality is that the gin market is flatlining. The only consolation for producers is that revenue grew at a 6 percent tick over that same period, meaning people are paying more for premium gins. Anchor Distilling spokesman John Dannerbeck corroborates this statistic for Junípero, which was the first gin to debut at the $30 price point in the ’90s: “We can’t make enough gin right now to meet demand, but then, we don’t make very much.”
So, is a gin explosion the same thing as a population explosion? The proliferation of new gins is not a response to a market demand, but instead seems angled to create one, fueled by bartenders, distillers, and booze enthusiasts rather than the general public. A basic gin is relatively easy to make and it’s a low-capital endeavor (i.e., no aging required, as in whiskey). But without demand, the efforts ultimately may not amount to much. H. Joseph Ehrmann, owner of the San Francisco bar Elixir, echoed what many other bar owners have told me: “Gin doesn’t move very fast in my bar. Not a lot of people are coming in and asking for it.” How can all these brands survive if people don’t ask for them? Gin’s real heyday may still be down the road.
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I think that the main problem with gin is the lack of a good signature cocktail that people and sorority girls can guzzle without too much difficulty. Vodka has the Cosmo and other toothache inducing drinks that Gin seemingly does not have. Those in the know about gin would argue differently however.
For many Gin drinkers (myself included), the mixed drink that makes me spend way too much money on good gin is the G and T. (I'm also a bit weird in believing that neat gin is the best way to enjoy it but to each their own) However, a good G and T is one where both the G AND the T are spectacular. From my own experiences in mixing them, the quality of the T will make or break the drink.
That being said, I think that the major problem with G and T in the states has to be the low quality of the tonic water available.
The US tonic water is heavy on the quinine with nothing to really round it out. This often produces what I feel is a second "kick in the mouth". It helps in highlighting the rough feel of the juniper in a bad way, by making you feel even more nauseous.
Over here in the UK there are many different types of tonic water. The difference in the taste of the tonic water here to the US is staggering. Rather than being heavy on the quinine, they add just a tad of sugar to sweeten the taste. This is so called "indian tonic water" and comes in a variety of kinds from your run of the mill Schweppes to even boutique labels such as the fever tree.
I think Gin makers should focus their attention on perfecting the G and T by refining tonic water to a drinkable state. If thats too much to ask, why not start shipping the indian tonic water to the states instead.
I could go on and on but i should stop before i sound all snooty. Anyone feel the same as me or have any other gin cocktails to share? In addition to G and T nothing beats a French 75!
>> "I think that the main problem with gin is the lack of a good signature cocktail..."
The martini doesn't count?
>> "...sorority girls can guzzle without too much difficulty."
Ah, I see your point. The Negroni is making huge headway these
last couple of years, though. And that one really shines with a strongly
flavoured gin and good vermouth.
I had no idea there was such a thing as "good" tonic water. I wonder
if that's another market just waiting for someone to come in an
clean up?
The problem I have with gin is that it's really not something to
be drank straight. Juniper served from a freezer is almost tolerable
but otherwise most are really helped by throwing in some sort
of olive/onion/anchovy.
>> The martini doesn't count?
Got me there, man i'm rusty :). But in all fairness, I think the gin martini has been replaced with the vodka martini. Damn shame i think, but so are the sign of the times
As for the tonic water, neither did I until I left the states and moved to the UK. I had been drinking G and Ts in the states since my 21st and when I had my first in the UK, I was bowled over how much better it tasted. If you love Bombay sapphire, with UK tonic water, its unbeatable on a hot day.
As for drinking gin straight, its not easy and definitely an acquired taste. I do think, however, that if you must mix it with something, you might want to try it with something sweet and see how you like it. Again, I reference the French 75 as it is a really under appreciated cocktail. If my memory serves me right, its 1 part Gin, 2 parts champagne, 1 part lemon juice, and a dash of sugar. Try it out and see what you think.
Finally, I think Churchill said it best when he was asked for the perfect martini recipe. The best martini is one made with 2 parts Gin and a simple glance at the vermouth.
Agreed, the tonic water makes a huge difference! Regular Schweppes all the way, at least in the US. We got some "Vintage" brand from Whole Foods, which tasted so nasty we had to return it.
Hendricks martini with a slice of cuke. Yumboski. Or the Gimlet. Love it. Simple & perfect.
gin neat is a special and lovely taste. its a medley of subtle flavors. much better in my opinion than with mixers. though i would argue as above that Hendricks' with a twist of lime and straight soda water is on the beam.
I have to disagree that the gin renaissance is a false phenomena. So many classic cocktails are coming back into fashion, cocktails that are distinctly gin based. I think we're still ahead of the gin curve.
The Side Car, French 75, Gimlet, and even the gin Martini. Mmmm.
I'm pretty sure a Sidecar is not made with gin.
My husband in recent years has become a big fan of Tanqueray -- you can smell the juniper across the room! Gin martinis (and you really do have to have a little vermouth -- too many martinis are vodka or gin shaken with ice), gin and tonics, and gimlets. I'm not a big fan of traditional gin, but I do like the new Tanquery Rangpur, where the juniper flavor is balanced more with the Rangpur lime and other botanicals. It's great with tonic.
Has anyone tried No. 209 Gin (out of Pier 50 in San Francisco)? It's remarkably smooth and excellent on the rocks! It's smooth body makes it quite versatile in mixing...with anything. Lots of bars and restaurants have it in the city, and they're quickly expanding to other parts of the states and in the UK and Europe as well...
I inherited a taste for gimlets from my mother, but every time I've asked for one in a bar, I have then had to clarify that I wanted it with gin, not vodka... That said, I've served them to a lot of guests and never had anyone fail to finish their drink, so I think it would make the Cosmo crowd pretty happy.
Hi all and in particular misswillsother -
I've got good news for you. I had the same exact issues with all the tonics out there and spent 4 years making my own. Long story short, it's called Q Tonic and it's made with organic agave and real quinine. As a result Q Tonic tastes sharper, has 60% fewer calories and is a much better match for great gins. For instance, with Q Tonic you can actually tell the difference between a Plymouth and Tonic and a Junipero and Tonic.
Q is just starting to be available. Right now, it's only available a couple of places outside of New York City (http://www.qtonic.com/availability.ht... but we're expanding out relatively quickly.
If anyone wants a sample in the interim, just let me know and I'll put one in the mail for you. My email is jordan@qtonicwater.com. And I'd love to hear what you think of it.
Cheers,
Jordan
I love Gin but do feel a little like Dick VanDyke when I order it out. The only other problem I find in my martini expeditions is the temperature. Nothing worse than warm gin but I can't always get the barkeep to chill it enough.....I hope to see a real comback, I love seeing and trying more types, I have had the 209, great!
Sarticious and Hendricks gins are both so lovely, I'm happy to simply drink them over ice. Sarticious has wonderful orange zest overtones plus other botanicals. Hendricks has rose petal and cucumber. For a martini (gin, of course), I like Tanqueray.
Maybe beginning gin drinkers would find a dirty martini easier to drink? I suppose I'm a heathen for liking them, but I do.
I'Il usually order a dirty martini without shame--with Plymouth, if it's available.
As for G&T, I like the "Limey" version, plenty of unsweetened lime juice added and plenty of ice. Not a Rose's fan. But I must try some of that British or Q tonic.....
I'Il usually order a dirty martini without shame--with Plymouth, if it's available.
As for G&T, I like the "Limey" version, plenty of fresh unsweetened lime juice added and plenty of ice. Not a Rose's fan. But I must try some of that British or Q tonic.....
What killed the G&T in saloons and eating establishment is the soda gun. Tonic from the "gun" tastes nothing like tonic from the bottle.
I tried Tanqueray Rangpur the other night with ginger ale -- I loved it! It was much smoother than most gins -- i felt it was more like a vodka than a gin. And agreed -- tonic from the gun is awful. Another good trick is to buy the smaller, single serve bottles instead of the 1L bottle. I feel like it goes bad shortly after you open it -- better to be fresh than sorry!
Just want to add for those of us in San Francisco: we see Fever Tree tonic once in a while (Faletti's market?), and it's now very easy to get Schweppes bitter lemon tonic, the English version, at BevMo stores. Actually, a peep at BevMo's site indicates they also carry Fever Tree, Riggs & Forsythe Bitter Lemon. I know I've seen the narrow glass bottled Indian Tonic from Schweppes once in a while but I can't remember where.