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Obsessives

Chris Cosentino, chef at San Francisco’s Incanto restaurant, is an offal evangelist. He’s the one people turn to when they have questions about parts of the animal beyond tri-tip and sirloin. Here, he talks about the lost connection between pasture and plate, the ways that both PETA and the USDA have gone off course, and the joys of possum-eatin’. Plus: He escorts us through a full offal dinner.

Love it, cook
it well, eat it
responsibly.

Get to Know Bison
Your questions answered.

Meat at Your Door
Bypass the supermarket and buy it direct.

How to Buy, Freeze,
and Prepare Meat

Smart tips from a butcher.

Your Meat Is Green
Ten ways to be a responsible carnivore.

Innard Workings
Chris Cosentino wants you to eat the nasty bits.

Beyond the Porterhouse
Ten underappreciated cuts of meat.


This is a regular series called Obsessives, in which CHOW explores the worlds of singularly focused food-industry figures. These are the people with the dirty hands, answering detailed questions about the work they do.

Published August 1, 2007

Comments

I love the Obsessives series.

Does he have a RedBull logo on his sleeve? Now THAT's a unique chef sponsorship!

Here! here! I am soo happy to hear the issue of factory farming being raised. I completely agree that we as consumers of animals have a responsibility not only to treat the animal humanely, but also to use every last bit of that creature! Every person in the world should be educated about how animals that we eat are raised and processed for our consumption.
Thanks, Chris Consentino, Meredith Arthur, and Eric Slatkin!
I'd love to see more like this!

Dear Chow Staff,

This is brilliant! I tip my hat to absolutely all of you who had anything at all to do with this series!

As a professional cook and chef I appreciate this concept and execution completely.

Thank you,

shuna fish lydon
e g g b e a t e r
cooking, baking & nifty photos
http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/

i've had the offal tasting menu at incanto - it was amazing - the guy knows his stuff.

I was a vegetarian for eight years because I was revulsed by the way supermarket sanitized "meat on styrofoam" was divorced from the life of the animal. The whole animal approach to eating meat makes sense to me.

Although I admit I am a little squeamish about some of the offal described, I'm going to make a serious effort to try some of these dishes. Thanks for the great series and Chris Cosentino's voice of sanity.

Bravo CHOW! These videos are stellar!
I grew up on a beef farm (and slaughtered/processed/cooked many a steer, chick, sheep, goose etc..) Wow I have completly lost touch...thanks for bringing back some great memories!

This is great. Offal is so important for so many reasons, not least of which because of its impact on our nutrition. Some of the vitamins and minerals that are offered are rarely seen in other cuts.

Offal-ly good. Congrats.

WOW. this is absolutely amazing and riveting. Eric, I wish i saw your face when he talked about penis wine.

MORE OBSESSIVES!!!!!

Hi chowhound team,

This is excellent. One of the best things Chowhound has delivered! I enjoyed it tremendously.

Would love to see more series like this to learn about other chefs or restaurants or foodies who go above and beyond to do unconventional and adventurous food activities. More things that we haven't heard (uh, so please no more Moto or Alinea.)

Again, thanks for the wonderful work!

So how is it pronounced? Aw-fal or oh-full?

I can't see the video! Is there something I have to download? I'm running on Mozilla.

Hey Trueqwest-

Depending on your internet connection, the video might take a few moments to load. The only software necessity for it to run is Macromedia Flash. Mozilla should work fine. If you still have problems after waiting, please post the problem here:
http://www.chowhound.com/boards/40

thanks for watching!

Dude, this guy is a serious cook. Most chefs don't have moves like that (too much time yelling and pointing). This guy is a badass.

so im not a big fan of Food Network (to say the least), but a friend told me to watch the "Search for the Next Iron Chef" just to see Cosentino on it. I am hooked.

his excitement for tripe makes me giddy.

this is the most cutting edge foodie stuff i've seen on the web in minute....nice job.....keep educating!!!!!

Congratulations, Chow and Obsessive Series: These are amazing - way to come out and do this Offal series. Amazing. Kudos!


james beard award winners

Obsessive -
Producers: Meredith Arthur and Eric Slatkin
for "innard workings"


Cheers
Jamie

So am I gonna be the only one to say "ewww organ meats!"

Dude, you're saying "ewww" because you've not been exposed to properly prepared organ meats, and our culture's made a fetish out of that damn styrofoam'n'shrinkwrapped tray meat. I'm not blaming you, it's the way things are. Temporaily.

Ten years ago I'd be saying "ewww" as well, until my exposure to offal cuisine as well as haute cuisine courtesy of Tony Bourdain, Gordon Ramsay, Daniel Bouloud, Mike Shackelford, Ming Tsai, Chris Cosentino, Mike Symon, and video of a thousand cooks on street corners all over the world showed me there's more to meat than steak, ribs, rump roast and ground.

There's a whole freakin' universe of great food just waiting for us! I don't know beans about offal (pun intended), but I know two high end restaurants here in town and I will ask them for the occasional offal dish because I know they'll do it right and the offal will be as delicious as it could be.

I've tried beef marrow, and it wasn't bad but nothing I loved, so I'll pass on it, so I know I won't love everything offal I try. That's okay, that's life.

(Heck, last month I ate cold jellyfish for the first time at a Chinese restaurant, and it was pretty good!)

One thing I do know: Bones, hooves/trotters/feet, all make wonderful meat stock. If you've ever tried home-made stock, you'll never go back to commercial stuff again. If I can get an outstanding chicken stock just from thigh bones, how much more deliciousness can an accomplished chef get from other bits of the animal?

While it is great that Chris mentions how bad factory farming is, his justifications for supporting meet eating are lame. He wonders what would happen to all the farm animals in a vegetarian world; we'd have to feed them and care for them, he says. But if we didn't breed them in factory farms in the first place there wouldn't be so many for us to have to care for. And, incredulously, he suggests that humans didn't domesticate the animals. What?! Did they do it on their own?

Then his comment about the foie gras industry not being as inhumane as it used to be is also completely off base. Foie gras comes from animals "raised" in factory farm conditions, restricted in cages so small they can't move, overfed so quickly that it diseases their liver (yum!) and many are so ill they die before they can be slaughtered. Sometimes the feeding pipes that are forcefully shoved down their throats puncture their necks and they are left to bleed to death. (Roger Moore tells it like it is: http://www.petatv.com/tvpopup/video.a...

Get your facts straight!!

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