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Mole in the Mountains, A gastronomic adventure in Xalapa, Mexico by Mick Vann
I’m sitting in a restored 18th-century house in a Mexican mountain village, about to have one of the best lunches of my life. I taste my first bite of picaditas, grilled cornmeal tortillas with raised edges that cradle black bean paste topped with pungent Cotija cheese and two salsas. They’re followed by whole black beans in a rich, herbal broth studded with little cornmeal dumplings. Then a mixed grill: moist, thinly sliced beef, cactus and onion, juicy paprika-laden sausage, chile-marinated chicken, and more picaditas topped with mole sauce. There are also two kinds of chiles rellenos, and a juice made from zarzaparrillas, tart, red berries that taste like hibiscus flowers.
You can’t get Mexican food like this in the States. In fact, you can’t get Mexican food like this in most of Mexico.
I’m in the town of Xico, part of the Sierra Madre Oriental range in Veracruz—the name of both a state on Mexico’s east coast and that state’s largest city. Thanks to centuries of trade through the Veracruz port, the area has some of the most original cuisine in the country—a mix of Afro-Cuban, Mediterranean, and indigenous preparations and ingredients. You’ll find dishes that contain saffron, almonds, capers, and olive oil. There are locally made European-style cheeses and air-cured Serrano hams and sausages. Salsas transcend the norm—some containing mayonnaise or nuts, more like a romesco sauce. Coffee, chocolate, and vanilla are all cultivated in the region. And you’ll find as much tropical fruit as you could wish for.
Best of all, this food paradise is largely undiscovered by American tourists.
My home base for exploring the area is the capital city of Xalapa (or Jalapa), a misty mountain town known as the “Athens of Veracruz.” It’s an enclave of writers, artists, college students, and musicians, with Baroque and Neoclassical architecture and cobblestone streets. At night you can hear top-notch live music, by day visit great museums, and eat, eat, eat. Nearby mountains and forests are gorgeous for hiking and picnicking. Remember the Michael Douglas–Kathleen Turner movie Romancing the Stone? It was filmed here.
At press time, Xalapa (pronounced ha-LAP-a) hadn’t been written about extensively by any major American guidebook (not even Lonely Planet)! But using our guide, you’ll discover the best restaurants, bars, and cultural picks. You’ll also find recommendations for lodging in gorgeous old Spanish mansions (reasonably priced), and ideas for side trips and things to try and buy. A beach vacation à la Cancun this is not. But for an adventure both cultural and gastronomic, read on.
Jon M. “Mick” Vann is a retired professional chef who has been specializing in international cuisine for more than 30 years. He has been a food writer for the Austin Chronicle for nine years, and coauthored a cookbook on international appetizers with Art Meyer titled The Appetizer Atlas: A World of Small Bites. Vann also owns Atlas Culinary Adventures, a company conducting domestic and foreign culinary tours.
Thanks for an excellent story. Although we were in Xalapa years ago, we were much less aware of its culinary potential. This makes me want to visit, but this time, in our own car.
What a God-send. Finally a writer who doesn't just go to the typical American resorts. Great details and wonderfully descriptive writing.
Another Veracruz City option:
Calle Landero y Coss is close to the fish market in the centro historico (near the zocalo) and has wonderful tiny seafood restaurants (more like small open kitchens with a few tables). I had mojarra enchipotlada (I saw someone run to the market to pick up my fish) served with freshly made tortillas (everywhere I went in Veracruz they make their own tortillas). They also serve cocteles, Mexican-style ceviche made with shrimp or oysters.
I can't believe I've overlooked this place for so many years, opting instead for the mountains of Michoacan. Now Jalapa is at the top of my list for places to visit in Mexico. Thanks for the lengthy, informative piece. My mouth is watering already!
Jalapeños, look out, sambamaster is headed your way!
How do you say yum-boy en español???
kenito799:
Good call, but the municipal fish market has been forceably moved to newer (less convenient) digs, now at the edge of the historico district, very near the Pemex petrol tank farm. All of those amazing seafood vendors that used to be up on the 2nd and 3rd floors of the old seafood market, or at least a lot of them, moved to El Mercado de la Concordia, which is spanking clean, and across from the Post Office and the train station, near the Port. New spot, same great stuff! chowmick
Xico is home to one of the tastiest moles around. I just LOVE their sweet "Mole de Xico".
Mick, I hope you will continue adding content to the Xalapa pages. I am a retiree living in Xalapa and this week I published my blog http://freeend.blogspot.com, which is now syndicated by Feedburner. I wrote an entry about Chow that features your article Mole in the Mountains. I am pleased that you used my panoramic photo and if you send me your email I have a great web site to share with you that provides free top qualify photos and graphics.
Richard Collins
Xalapa
librehombre; the link to your blog didn't work when clicked, but it turns out that the "dot" at the end of the URL was the culprit.
I got http://freeend.blogspot.com working now, and I'm looking forward to reading it with pleasure.
Anonimo
Thanks for the information -- I'll have to be more careful about those periods in the future. Glad you are enjoying my blog.
Great report on my list of places to visit soon...
Ok so i have a wonderful place for Tacos Arabe. It is called El Beduino, which means traveler in arabic. It is located on callejon diamante. It is a small family owned restaurants that has been there for about 11 years. It serves Jocoque which is a yougurt dish served with spices and olive oil. It can be served seco or vaso. you can have a drink or a dip with pan arabe. This place is such a great little find in the middle of the busseling alley of merchants and restaurants. I met the owner who is this tiny itty bitty woman named marcela. The food is great but not much to select from. I personally love the Odalisca, which is the meat and manchego cheese melted on pita break served with limon and salsa.....it is a great place for lunch. I recommend the falafel, it is served with white and reb beet salad topped with tajini. This is the best dish of the restaurant in my opinion....
Your article briefly epitomizes the essence of Xalapa. I am a traveller that currently lives in Xalapa. An article was posted by Boris Fishman in the New York Times regarding attractions and food scene of Xalapa. The article was posted last October 18th and you might read it in the following link: http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/11/18/...
You might want to check on a small restaurant that specializes on world cuisine which is also mentioned in this article. The place is called Kukiaio and food might be of a single lonely style you might not find even in larger cities, a preview of their menu is on their website: www.kukiaio.com
These types of restaurants are being located in small walking alleys similar to Plaka in Athens.
Just found a cool site with some great pictures of Xico for anybody interested...
http://www.anthonysloan.com/Xico.html