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Crush Ice Without Burnout

Blenders that do the job

By Louisa Chu

My greatest blender tragedy involved far less expensive ingredients than Will It Blend?’s iPhone, but it was much less amusing. (The aforementioned site, presented by Blendtec, features funny videos in which Tom the Tester sticks various things into a Blendtec Total Blender to answer the question “Will it blend?”) I’d spent hours shopping, cooking, and then finally blending to create a beautiful, warm orange-carrot-cardamom purée. As I lifted the pitcher to pour the ethereally light potage into individual handmade Japanese bowls, the pitcher’s bottom dropped out, spilling my entire first course across the counter and onto the floor.

Minor disasters followed with replacement blenders in seemingly never-ending whirring sessions that still left hidden, stringy veggie chunks or ended with motors giving off that telltale metallic burning smell just before dying out.

A great blender should be able to handle jobs ranging from crushing ice to making supersmooth purées. It needs a powerful and durable motor that ideally lasts through a second round of margaritas, and should have an easy-to-handle yet sturdy pitcher. The entire unit should also be low maintenance.

Fortunately great blenders do exist. In fact the field is so close now that there are two blenders I didn’t include in my recommendations but still merit mention. When I last shopped for a home blender, after the purée calamity, manufacturers hadn’t yet caught up to the market’s expectations, born of daily Frappuccinos and fruit smoothies.

Will It Blend?’s Blendtec Total Blender is a solid machine, but I find its square pitcher less maneuverable than a round one when scraping with a spatula. The square sides are great for holding more volume, which is why Starbucks and Jamba Juice use Blendtecs, but are not necessary for most home purposes. For $400, I’m going to be picky about every detail.

Also, one of the most mysterious blenders in the world to the uninitiated is the Thermomix. It’s the $1,000 machine used by Ferran Adrià, and can only be seen by civilians after a prearranged in-home meeting with a “sales partner”—think Tupperware “consultant.” As if those obstacles weren’t enough, Vorwerk, the German manufacturer, stopped selling Thermomixes in the United States in 2003, says Aline Martin of Vorwerk USA. She says she doesn’t know why. I’ve used the company’s blenders nearly daily for years, including during my time at El Bulli. Yes, the Thermomix is a powerful, efficient blender with a built-in timer, and some models also weigh and heat the contents. But it’s a machine that deserves discussion beyond the context of blenders. Stay tuned for a future column—when I go behind the Thermomix curtain.

All of the recommended models below have measurements marked on their pitchers, lids with an opening that allows you to add ingredients while blending, and dishwasher-safe parts, except for the motors, of course.

PowerMax
By Braun, $46.30

Braun’s PowerMax is a good and relatively powerful blender, but its most notable feature is its price. At under $50, it costs less than a tenth of the most expensive model recommended.

It blends with removable, heavy-duty, stainless steel blades that fit into the bottom of the pitcher, like most classic blenders. The glass pitcher holds 58 ounces, a good-size average.

A simple five-speed dial features a pulse setting—the stop-and-start motion tosses solid chunks like ice cubes within the pitcher to give the blades better contact with whole pieces. While a pulse function seems standard these days, many blenders in this price range don’t have one.

This model is currently available only in white with gray accents.

I found the heavy glass pitcher and removable blades a bit of a nuisance, but for the performance and price, it’s a great-value home machine.

Polycarbonate 5-Speed Blender
By KitchenAid, $99.99

The KitchenAid 5-Speed Blender features a lightweight polycarbonate pitcher with the blades built right into the bottom. The 56-ounce pitcher is scratch, stain, and shatter resistant, and its handle has a soft inner grip. The blades are patented and set on four different planes for more thorough blending and crushing. The .9-horsepower motor is housed in a heavy, die-cast metal base, cushioned with four nonslip, nonmarring rubber feet. The smooth, seamless control pad features an Automatic Crush Ice button, which pulses the ice cubes at regular intervals for you. You can also pulse at any of the five speeds.

The machine crushes ice and blends consistently well, but KitchenAid advises against pressing or jiggling the pitcher while it’s running and suggests waiting until the blender has completely stopped before taking the pitcher off, to keep from stripping the gears.

This model is currently available in seven KitchenAid colors, ranging from Empire Red to Metallic Chrome.

The manufacturer offers a one-year “Hassle-Free Replacement Warranty.”

Vita-Prep 3
By Vita-Mix, $549

The Vita-Prep has long been the staple blender in restaurant kitchens. Numerous chefs, including Thomas Keller, endorse it.

The new Vita-Prep 3 has a three-horsepower motor that spins the stainless steel blades at 37,000 rpm. In addition to standards like ice and vegetables, you can fill the polycarbonate pitcher with peanuts to make smooth peanut butter (chunky if you prefer) or with rice to make rice flour. No liquid is necessary. While these feats can also be done in the other recommended blenders, the Vita-Prep 3’s combination of pitcher shape, blade angle, and power produces a far more consistent product.

The speed dial turns smoothly, never clicking into a preset speed, allowing you to make minute adjustments. There’s also a high-speed switch that sends the blender straight into turbocharge mode.

The motor is thermally protected, so in the unlikely event that it overheats it will automatically shut down before burning out.

The Vita-Prep is a proven, durable workhorse in pro kitchens: The pitcher withstands spoon and ladle smacks and drops into stainless steel sinks. The gears work despite inadvisable jiggling and jamming. And the blending power produces flawlessly smooth results.

Louisa Chu is a chef and food writer who's cooked her way through the world's hottest kitchens, from El Bulli to Alinea. And yeah, that's her taking Anthony Bourdain on the Paris meat market tour in No Reservations on the Travel Channel. Louisa can currently be found in Gourmet's Diary of a Foodie on PBS, Gourmet's Choptalk, and her own food blog, Movable Feast.

Published July 26, 2007

Comments

I'm looking into making my own pet food with raw meat, bones & viegies. It is hard work, cuting piesces down to size when you have small pets. I also want to be able to have them cugt into chunks & crush some of the bones. I saw someone state that the Vita Mix blender will do that. But it is quite pricy. Is there a place I can purchase something like this, but at a lower cost?

Thanks

Tylerito, to crush bones on a regular basis you need a tough machine, I would say restaurant grade. To save money, visit a restaurant supply store that deals in used equipment, or a liquidator. If you're in NYC, head to the bowery.

I've got an old vitamix my husband found on ebay, and it is super amazing. From soup to nuts, it does everything.
If you can't get a vitamix new, it pays to look around on auction sites and craigslist. Lots of people blow a wad on a vitamix, intending to become the next bar whiz, or go on some fad juice diet. Like exercise machines, these things sit until the lazy bums decide to sell them and buy the next fad item.

So it pays to look online. Replacement parts can be found in most restaurant supply stores, if the need arises.

I'm looking for a blender that will make Slurpee-style crushed ice-- a slurry. Will the Braun or Kitchenaid do it, or do I look elsewhere?

As much as I love Vita-Preps, I wasn't willing to shell out the $500+ it goes for, so instead I opted for a Professional Series Oster. It gets the job done, and well.

If you order from the website with this link https://secure.vitamix.com/acb/stores... you can get a factory reconditioned Vita-Mix 5000 that looks perfectly new with 7 year warranty for 349.99. This link gives you free shipping for ALL blenders from the website. If you want more than one, make sure you order separately.

I've been waiting for the promised follow up on this post, regarding the Thermomix. You are right to say that it is "mysterious" but that's mainly because it is not know in North America. That's changing though -- Thomas Keller now owns 5 of them! It's the most popular kitchen appliance in European homes (yes, homes kitchens, not just restaurant kitchens!) and there is now a 110v model available for North America, but you have to order through Canada.

I found out about this machine by accident in August and it's turned my life around... I used to swear off appliances in favor of simple good knives, but I've been converted by Thermomix and how much more it allows me to do with my time in the kitchen. I no longer have kitchen envy whatsoever.

You can read about it on my blog and there are videos from around the world too. see: http://thermomixbimby.com

Cheers!

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