Florence has changed
You can still find Renaissance piazzas filled with rustling pigeons, romantic Italian men wooing ladies, and Michelangelo sculptures. But today’s Florence, as the locals know it, is a fashionable, modern city, home to Ferragamo, Gucci, and Roberto Cavalli, and offering vibrant nightlife, great restaurants, and for the visitor, stylish boutique hotels. But Florence isn’t the easiest place to visit. Many complain that it’s overrun with tourists, and that the bread is flavorless. All true—Florence has the most American student programs in the world and admittedly unseasoned bread. But go where the locals go, and you’ll get an entirely different picture. You may encounter the cold shoulder at first (Florentines are known for being snobs, or “the Parisians of Italy”). But even more than Parisians, they’ll warm up if you’re willing to break the ice with a little respectful conversation.
City Layout
Florence’s cobblestone streets are best navigated in relation to two landmarks: the Arno River, which splits the city in half from west to east, and the old city doors, or porte, the remains of which demarcate the center of Florence, or centro storico. North of the Arno is where you’ll find the majority of the famous sights and most of the tourists. And, though you haven’t seen Florence until you explore that area, you should also check out the south side of the Arno, called the Oltrarno. Similar to Paris’s Left Bank, the Oltrarno is Florence’s bohemian quarter, made up of art schools, artists’ studios, and more casual cafés.
However much time you’ve got will do, but it takes at least four days to really get a sense of the city. Florence is also a great base from which to take day trips into surrounding Tuscany or even nearby Emilia-Romagna, Liguria, and Umbria. The best time to visit is late spring, early summer, or early fall, when the streets are filled with locals and the weather is pleasant.
WOW!! What a extensive and informative article... I printed it immediately for my next trip to Florence... Even though, I have explored Florence before, there were many new ideas and tips, which I will include in my next visit..
Thanks
M
Outstanding and incisive review for the vicissitudes of a classic destination.The article is a paradigm to update travelers on the newest attractions.Thanks for the infoJ
nice....... makes me wanna go there. tx
Good info and nice design!
I never heard about Chow before, but a friend told me about it and it seems all my friends knew about Chow except me:)
Thanks
Thanks! I will def use this fabulous info for my next trip!
Wow, very well written article. I hope more cities can be profiled like this.
This is fantastic! I'm traveling to Italy for the first time next month - thank you!
My wife and I have been to Florence 4 or 5 times -- we like it for hanging out -- when our kids (25 and 27) joined us they liked it for the excitement and adventure of a city this large, active and beautiful -and- for hanging out all night...they found some fun clubs and piazzas...the piazzas for them were more fun than the clubs since they met people from all over the world while there at night. I am glad to see you highlight cities like Florence...and -- for your readers to share their thoughts and experiences about their trips to these cities.
Excellent guide to the high...and low lights of Florence! Thanks for the insightful recommendations!...Looking forward to my next visit.
It might help some to know that the Italians do not call it Florence. To them it is Firenza! Beautiful town and the Ponte Vecchio bridge is a wonder to behold. You might like to know that they have built a replica of the bridge in the new community of "Lake Las Vegas", an upscale community and resort built on an artificial lake in the Nevada desert. It was formed by building a 900 foot dam and piping in water from lake Mead! It's only 17 miles from Vegas!
Harry
I'm super picky about food and can tell you that IL LATINI is very good for its humungous steak. It's excellent.
You completely missed the point about Il Latini. No matter what you order, the cost is the same. The Bistecca is close to the best in the city, and yes, the wine is lousy, but the atmosphere great, and it is a fun night. Order the steak, and you will have the best prie/quality ratio in the city.
Also, some of the observations on other restaurants are, to say the least, controversial.
Going there in the Fall, thanks for the article!
I'm a bit surprised by the articles description of the bread. My goodness, ss foodies you guys should know better.
Tuscan bread HAS no taste, that's how it's made and what makes it so unique. It's why it's so good in the bread soup, and why you can make a delicious sandwich with one thin slice of prosciuto or lay a layer Nutella on it for a full chocolate cake flavor.
As a lucky student who lived with an Italian family in Siena, we ate that wonderful tasteless bread with every meal.
I've been trying to find that tough spongy bread in the USA ever since. Turns out you can only get it in Tuscany and the quality has to do with the milling process.
So don't be dis'n my favorite taste memory. You'll never have a better experience than a picnic with Tuscan bread, olives, cheese and ANY local wine. Yum, wish I could join you.
This made me so nostalgic! I studied in Florence a number of years ago, and have enjoyed returning many times since. I also second what Shape of Lies said about the bread--saltless bread is what makes Tuscan bread famous, and I wouldn't want it any other way.
I lived in the Oltrarno, and agree that you can't go wrong exploring the area. The place that gets my vote is Borgo Antico, right in the Piazza Santo Spirito. It is my all-time favorite restaurant, and I dream of their perfecty thin-crusted pizzas, creative meal-sized salads, and delectable salads. They have outdoor seating for much of the year, and it's the perfect way to enjoy the night life on the piazza.
Trattoria Garga was always one of my favorite places to splurge, and I don't think I ever had a bad meal there. Their house salad was always one of my favorties--basic, but a perfect melding of flavors.
I love this article as a guide, and also a way to reminisce, and hope to see more in the future!
My wife and I just returned from Florence and found this list helpful. I will agree, that some of the restaurant reviews are maybe a bit off. We ate at Il Santo Bevitore, and it's good, not great. Maybe even just ok. Maybe it's declined? We certainly ate much better for about half the price elsewhere. (La Casalinga for one, nearby)
Il Latini def feels like a Florentine medieval times tourist wise, but the prices aren't high and the food was surprisingly good for what feels like it could just be a churn and burn. I had rabbit, and it was truly excellent. That said, cross the Oltrarno, and find a nice local place that will have the same food, without the tourist hordes backed up at the front door seven deep.
I was in Florence a few weeks ago and Il Santo bevitore was my favourite restaurant during my entire stay in Italy! Vibrant atmosphere and delicious food. I also liked La Casalinga but it is more a traditional trattoria.