Feature
Behind the Scenes at Alinea
Step by step through one of the most talked-about kitchens in America
A dish on one of Alinea’s two tasting menus is described as “Short rib—beets, cranberry, Campari.” If only it were that simple. Chef Grant Achatz says the actual ingredients are “short rib, beet-Campari juice, roasted baby golden beet, beet-green marmalade, braised beet greens, beet pâte de fruit, beet chips, three different types of fennel garnish, cranberry sauce, caramelized fennel purée … man, I guess that is a lot.” A colleague reminds him about fennel pollen, cranberry powder, and Murray River salt. This is, after all, probably the most inventive restaurant in America, where Chef Achatz has turned dinner into—you name the metaphor: It’s been called performance art, theater, sensual orgy.
None of which comes easy. Preparing a dish like this can take many days, and at any one time three cooks might be working on different parts of the same dish. So as Alinea has deconstructed dinner, we have deconstructed Alinea. Here’s a step-by-step guide to how this dish is prepared. (Note: If you visit Alinea, chances are you won’t find it; Achatz continually changes the menu.)
Photography: Stephanie Willis
stunningly simple in it's complexity
But how do you *eat* it?!
Great piece. Thanks.
This is really phenomenal stuff...can't wait for my tax return check so I can actually afford a meal here. Chef Achatz is incredibly talented.
Nice presentation
We ate at Spain's Martin Bearasategui's 3 star Michelin restaurant this past summer. The food was really similar to that is raved at the Alinea. My 12 yeal old son adored it. While I like the novelty of the preparation and the definite health benefit of low fat, I thought quite a bit of what food and cookiing really is about and what does this kind of supper-processed cooking say of our time. Gel of juice of watercress? I cannot help but relate to that French practice of making a cup of consomme from reducing gallons of stock of maybe 1/4 of veal, much of marrow, chicken, wine and herbs. Is it really sensible cooking? Just wondering.
He's no Keller and certainly no Adria, so what is he? Unoriginal !
Nothing wrong with even being mentioned in the same breath as Keller and Adria, even if disparagingly.
I think it's inventive and playful.
I like the concept. I think it would be even better if you could get it on a stick to go.
F**king stunning. A great backup to this is Michael Ruhlman's blog. He spent awhile with Grant Achatz talking about the "molecular gastronomy" thing You can see it at http://blog.ruhlman.com/2007/03/the_e...
I have a friend that doesn't agree with "Molecular gastronomy." He and his wife both think that it is a fad that is on it's way out. I beg to differ. She is french, and he studied in France and they both cling onto traditional technique. I truly believe that it is the way of the future. I advocate using M.G. in sync with traditional ways, but that is just me. The amount of skill and foreward thinking that these chef' need (Grant Achatz and Homaro Cantu are genius',) Case in point, the dish' that these chef' create are amazing and they deserve the status they command. My hats off to them, and anyone brave enough to go foreward. You can also tune into my blog at http://chef64.wordpress.com More to come, Brian
More for the gastronome artist. It appeals to me visually, but I wouldn't go out of my way to eat it..I'd frame it maybe, but then I would probably prefer to buy an original piece of contemporary art, to hang on the wall. I
I love shortribs. I love beets. I love fennel. I love Duchamp. Why doesn't this appeal to me in the least?
Resembles an alien landscape of some sort, which is rather cool, but I wouldn't say, "Hey, that shortrib, beet and fennel dish looks mighty tasty."
Achatz is to cuisine as Joyce is to fiction. You may not get it the first time but reflection and contemplation are rewarded.
Quantum Cuisine. It's both food and not food at the same time. Just don't try and serve me that live / dead cat in the box. ;-D
Had an amazing meal there and can't wait to go back! (even if the meal did take 5 hours) - I think it's unfair to compare Achatz to Keller as the type of food he makes is completely different. And as for comparing to Adria - well, I haven't had his food yet - will let you know if I agree in July!
go to my website to see my carving davecarving.piczo.com
This article inspired me to visit the restaurant, which is about 2,000 miles from my home. It was unquestionably worth the trip.