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The Secret Ingredient Every Chef UsesThe menu won’t admit it, but it’s in there |
There are those who love anchovies, those who hate anchovies, and those who only think they hate anchovies. “If it says anchovy on the menu, then people will ask for the dish without it. They’ll like it more with the anchovy; they just don’t know it,” says Craig Stoll of San Francisco’s Delfina restaurant.
Anchovies are a chef’s secret ingredient. They balance the flavors and add saltiness. Mario Batali often adds a few salt-cured anchovies to braising meats. Ana Sortun of Oleana in Cambridge, Massachusetts, stirs a few fillets into her Mediterranean Braised Chard, where they counteract the sweetness of the raisins. At the New York restaurant Savoy, Peter Hoffman slips a few under the skin of a roast chicken.
Spanish anchovies are considered best, particularly those harvested from the Cantabrian Sea. The short season runs from April through June, and each fish is graded, filleted, cured, and packed in jars by hand. Cantabrian anchovies are larger than those found in the Mediterranean and are of unequalled quality, with a rich, full flavor.
What to Buy
Most recipes call for fillets of anchovy, which come packed in olive oil in 2-ounce tins or small glass jars. Because the fish are already boned, they’re ready to use in recipes. They’re also sold by weight at Italian delis and upscale markets. Look for the Spanish Cantabrian or Catalonian fillets. We particularly recommend those produced by the company L’Escala.
Salt-packed anchovies are another traditional preparation. Be forewarned: These often require boning and will need to soak in water before they can be used; otherwise they’re too salty. But the result is tender flesh, less salty than the oil-packed variety. You can usually find salt-packed anchovies at Italian delis, upscale markets like Whole Foods, and online at ChefShop.com. Another option is anchovy paste, which comes in toothpaste-like tubes. The ingredients should be nothing more than salt, anchovies, and oil. The paste keeps for months and is useful when you need just a dab.
Photograph by Kevin Twomey
by not telling diners that some of the food has fish products in it, these chefs are doing a great service to those who are allergic to fish, its makes life so much more interesting trying to guess whether the chicken, you would never imagine had fish in it, which you were about to eat was going to kill you.
On the other hand, by keeping anchovies as a "secret ingredient," diners are more likely to try new dishes, rather than be put off by unpleasant memories of salty, bony anchovies they may have had in the past. My wife, for one, abhors anchovies staight out of the jar or tin. But, used in moderation to season another dish (such as a French recipe for steak with anchovy sauce), she loves the hint of flavor.
I blame the teenager mutant ninja turtles for turning the majority of my generation into anti-anchovists: "Two Pizzas, No anchovies!" If only Donatello knew what he was missing. I somehow managed to avoid the anti-anchovy movement, and I'm glad that many chefs have too. Anchovies (especially the catalonian fillets) are marvellous flavor enhancers. Lets see more recipes with them!
While the dish may cause a serious allergic reaction . . . on the other hand you've tried something new. Something to think about as they wheel you to the ambulance.
I absolutly agree that anchovies are a magical ingredient! I am a true chowhound and am able and willing to try most anything in the name of culinary achievement...but, I can't speak for those who albeit annoying to some of us won't eat this that or the other thing. I will continue to be devious in my own home at my own discretion. I am not sure,however if it the right thing for the "industry" to do.
I think the burden is on a guest with allergies to tell their server, not for the restaurant to list... every... single... ingredient... in every..single ...dish.
Don't any of you feel that it would make reading a menu unbearably tedious?
With today's outlandish popularity of "allergies" it would be impossible to list everything on the menu someone could be allergic to... butter, garlic, oil, herbs, onions, vinegar, cocoa, curry, pepper, flour, egg, eggplant, tomato... the list goes on and on.
On the other hand, if a chef is told about an allergy and sneaks it in because "they'll never notice" that is obviously wrong.
I remember reading about how the Cheesecake Factory was creating a Pasta Puttensca dish but had to do it without anchovies because of the allergy fear thing. I think it's perfectly safe for chefs to do somthing like this but unfortunately for corporate resaurants, if they don't specifically list out every allergenic food they could easily get sued.
Playing the devil's advocate here, I have to say that a lot of people use allergies as an excuse not to eat something they don't want to, which is not only cowardly and lacks the courage of their convictions, but it does a real disservice to people with genuine allergies, who can have a fatal histamine reaction to the allergenic substance.
In fact, I'm willing to bet that the allergy-criers are a huge majority over the people who have the real thing.
It's true many people claim allergies that don't have them (or don't have true histamine reactions, but are just "sensitive"). But still, for people who do, it's a life-threatening issue. I guess the issue I have is how "secret" the ingredient is. If the waitstaff is all made aware of it and is able to give the correct information to the customer, then that's a tolerable level of "secrecy." But if only the chefs know, then that's definitely a problem. Sure the waiter could write "fish allergy" on the ticket and let the kitchen sort it out, but practically speaking, how often would a busy kitchen miss that kind info.
I think if you're dining in a restaurant where you're eating the kind of food where the chef is an "anchovy as a secret ingredient" type, then the customer should expect that there will be things like that going on and you should either ask or just avoid and stick to sterile, prepackaged corporate type meals. (Then again, I agree that the word "allergy" is overused as an excuse to not eat new or "yucky" things.)
I fully endorse this idea, and have used anchovies as a secret ingredient myself many times.
Chai18, have you ever had a Caesar salad? How about Worcestershire sauce? Did you know that anchovies are an integral part of both recipes? Are you going to fall over and die the next time you have a Caesar salad now that you know?
Anchovies are truely fantastic. Disagree that the best are from the Cantabrian coast. The Catalan Mediterranean coast produces amazing anchovies, in particular those from L'Escala and the surrounding area.
I use 12 oz. tins of Argentine anchovies, at about $5., and they are as good as Italian. Haven't tried the favoured Spanish.
I also love what anchovies do for dishes. The preserved ones are so easy to blend to a paste and add in on unsuspecting guests. Sometimes I admit to using them, sometimes not. I had a dressing of mine go over huge at a company party, but I just couldn't admit to using anchovies when asked about the ingredients; too many unadventurous eaters around.
I really liked the fresh anchovies we had in Sicily and Venice, but there's no way I could sneak those dishes over on anyone. The best way to enjoy anchovies, fresh or preserved, is to order a dish where it is obvious you are eating them.
A real pet peeve of mine is that it is so hard to find a place that actually serves anchovies in their Caesar Salad...most have a hint in the dressing but it is rare to find a place that proudly puts real anchovy fillets on the salad. What's a Caesar without anchovies!! Very disappointing when the salad arrives naked!
I love them but usually buy the cheap bottles in oil from Roland for cooking with. I will have to try some better ones and see if there is really a noticable difference..
I've been adding a dollop of Vietnamese sour fish paste - not the liquid sauce - to most anything, including spaghetti sauce. If I tell people, they're predisposed not to like it but the paste adds richness and depth of flavor. I often add anchovy to soup. They completely dissolve and again add a salty richness to any base.
my objection to 'secret' ingredients is based on religious restrictions. i dont eat pork or alcohol in my food. recent dining experience at a restaurant inspite of telling the server,r esulted in an accident from the kitchen. so yes i WANT TO KNOW whats in my food. maybe not every ingredient necessarily but the stuff i dont or wont eat.