All-Clad Roti Pan Open Rectangular Stainless Roaster review:
Great Pedigree, But Does This Roasting Pan Deliver?
- Price:$119.95 - $199.99
Solid and roomy, with ergonomic handles and an effective nonstick roasting rack.
The inner reservoir makes lump-free pan sauces a challenge, and the bonus turkey forks are a joke.
If you cook a lot of roasts and don’t mind investing in a solid piece of cookware you’ll have forever, this is a pretty good buy.
For a lot of cooks, Thanksgiving is the one time of year the large roasting pan sees the light of the kitchen. And if you’re tackling a 20- or 25-pound turkey, you'll need a solid, well-made roaster. Considering the investment a quality pan calls for, you'll also want one that’ll last long enough to roast holiday birds for your grandkids. All-Clad's stainless pots and saucepans have a deep fan base for their design and longevity (the company's slogan: “An original lasts for eternity”). Can an All-Clad stainless roasting pan rate just as high?
With outside dimensions of 17 1/8 inches long, 13 3/4 inches wide, and 5 inches high (including the handles), All-Clad’s Roti Pan Open Rectangular Stainless Roaster is roomy enough to hold a moderately huge turkey. But hauling this baby from counter to oven and back again will take some muscle: Empty, it weighs 7 pounds 11 ounces; with the V-shaped nonstick roasting rack that's included, it goes up to 10 pounds 5 ounces. Like all of All-Clad’s pans in the Stainless Collection, the Roti Pan is made of 18/10 stainless steel, polished inside and out to a mirror shine. But unlike the tri-ply saucepans, for which heat distribution is crucial, the roasting pan has single-ply construction. (It’s also made in China; All-Clad’s other stainless cookware is manufactured in the United States.) When it’s not in the oven, the Roti Pan is fine on gas and electric burners, including ceramic cooktops. Induction, however, is a no-no. There’s a well running all the way around the bottom for collecting roasting juices, as well as loop handles—turned inward for better ergonomics—with noncorrosive rivets. And this pan comes with a bonus of sorts: a pair of so-called turkey forks, pitchforklike tools of stainless steel. Presumably these are for lifting your roasted bird out of the roasting rack, though they’re arguably better suited for pulling pork. The Roti Pan is dishwasher safe, and it comes with a lifetime warranty.
Taking on the inevitable, we roasted a 14-pound holiday bird, then transferred the roaster to a gas cooktop to make pan gravy from the drippings. Finally, to see how the Roti Pan would fare beyond roasting, we cooked up a large batch of caramel corn.
Roasted turkey: The Roti Pan worked like a charm—the rack elevated the bird nicely to brown it evenly on all sides in the oven, while allowing the drippings to accumulate in the bottom.
Pan gravy: That well around the roaster’s outer edge suddenly didn’t seem like such a good idea when we went to make a roux out of flour and the drippings. Clumps of floury drippings kept migrating to the edge, making it hard to get our final gravy smooth.
Caramel corn: Our recipe calls for spreading out the caramel-coated corn in a large pan and baking it till crunchy. The Roti Pan gave us plenty of surface area in which to stir, and high sides to prevent spillage—it was the perfect tool for the job, plus it made us feel less guilty about such a hefty purchase, knowing we could use it for other things besides the holiday roast.
General stuff: Overall, the Roti performed well as both a roaster and a deep baking dish. It’s a solid piece, and the riveted handles angle nicely away from the pan so you can haul it around without wrenching your wrists or risking nicking a knuckle on the edge of the hot side. We found the bonus turkey forks to be useless though: When we went to transfer our bird to the carving board, the forks poked big holes all over, allowing precious juices to escape. And frankly, they look like an accident waiting to happen lying among the other tools in a cluttered kitchen drawer.
Photos by Chris Rochelle