Dopo

The current menu has seven sections:

Pesce crudo (raw fish): three items at $12 each or $32, $35, or $39 for a sampler platter for two, three, or four people. We have never ordered these as the cooked food is always more appealing.

Pate & salumi: seven items at $7-8 each or $20, $23, or $27 for a sampler. We rarely order these as if we were in the mood for salumi we'd go to Adesso (same owners,...+READ The current menu has seven sections:

Pesce crudo (raw fish): three items at $12 each or $32, $35, or $39 for a sampler platter for two, three, or four people. We have never ordered these as the cooked food is always more appealing.

Pate & salumi: seven items at $7-8 each or $20, $23, or $27 for a sampler. We rarely order these as if we were in the mood for salumi we'd go to Adesso (same owners, two blocks away).

Antipasti: three items at $11-12 each or $31, $34, or $38 for a sampler, plus a soup and a salad ($7 each). The antipasti re things that would be entrées elsewhere and often could be listed under one of the other sections: we've had pesce crudo a couple of times and one of the items is usually a sort of stew. We almost always order a sampler, but last night we didn't want the sardines in saor because it was cold, and they had run out of the braised squid with polenta, so we got the manicotti stuffed with chard, caciocavallo, and prosciutto cotto ($12)--dense and delicious, though strictly speaking it was only one manicotto.

Pasta: three items at $14-16, no sampler. Last night we got the trenette (wide whole-wheat noodles) with braised hen, cabbage, pancetta, and brescianella ($16). The texture and flavor of the noodles was the star and the sauce just enhanced it. There are few places in the area that make pasta at this level.

Pizza: five daily-changing specials ($14-16) plus the Dopo, basic cheese, anchovies optional ($10). The crust is crisper than the Neapolitan style that Pizzaiolo and a lot of other plces are doing these days, more like what they make at the Cafe at Chez Panisse. The pies are about 12", plenty for two to share as an entrée or for a party of four to six as an appetizer. I think Dopo ties with Pizzeria Delfina as the best in this local style of pizza (and neigher has the edge provided by a wood oven).

Brasato & arrosto: a stew and/or a roast, $16-18. Last night they had run out of the roast pork so we got the beef spezzatino braised in red wine ($18), served with polenta. It doesn't get better than this. I think Dopo ties with Oliveto and Perbacco in the braised-meat Olympics.

Verdura: three items, $6 each or $13, $16, or $20 for a sampler. Last week we had the most amazing platter yet: a Brussels sprout gratin with pancetta or guanciale that was somehow reminiscent of both choucroute garni and pizzoccheri (minus the noodles), roast turnips with I think walnuts, and I forget the third item. Last night they'd run out of fried Brussels sprouts with salmoriglio so we got turnips with lemon, which were great with the beef, and chicories with sherry and parmesan, which I might not have ordered if I'd realized it was a cold salad, though it hit the spot.

Dessert: five items at $7-8, plus three house-made gelati for $7-8 each, or $15, $18, or $22 for a sampler platter. Since they had run out of several of the things we would have ordered, we had room for dessert, which might have been the first time. The espresso panna cotta ($7) served with whipped cream was great, barely a hint of sugar, tasted like a cup of coffee. The cannoli ($8) were as good a version of the crisp, light Italian style as I've had in this country, up there with À Côté's and Delfina's. The lemon ricotta zeppole ($7) were good though not as ethereal as the ones we had at À Côté a couple of weeks ago.

The all-Italian wine list has a great selection of wines for $9-14 a glass / $38-56 a bottle (plus a Montepulciano di Abbruzo for $5 / $20). They just expanded the list this week, adding a section of ~20 wines at $40 a bottle and a dozen or so reserve reds for around $80-120. The fancy wines seem a little out of place given the informality of the place, but the food certainly justifies it if price is not a concern. They also have a full bar and the second-largest (after Adesso) selectino of amari I've found.

Bottom line, I think Dopo currently sets the bar for Italian food in the East Bay--though I'll be challenging that judgment at Oliveto's Whole Hog in a few days.-COLLAPSE / REPLY (19 Replies) (by Robert Lauriston, created January 30, 2010)

»Lunch review

Recently had lunch here for the first time since Adesso opened. The Little Gem salad with lemon dressing, parmesan and anchovy had most of the taste of a Caesar without all the richness. I wasn't crazy about the lettuce itself, though. I've previously raved about their fried hen panini as being the best sandwich in the East Bay. The sandwich I had on my recent visit, now billed as "fried...+READ Recently had lunch here for the first time since Adesso opened. The Little Gem salad with lemon dressing, parmesan and anchovy had most of the taste of a Caesar without all the richness. I wasn't crazy about the lettuce itself, though. I've previously raved about their fried hen panini as being the best sandwich in the East Bay. The sandwich I had on my recent visit, now billed as "fried chicken", was tasty but not quite up to that standard. Don't know if they've changed the type of bird used or if it was a slight off-day, but I wouldn't hesitate to order it again.

Still five stars for dinner based on my last visit (over the summer).-COLLAPSE (by bradluen, created October 12, 2009)