For perfect, moist eggs, we use a trick from Julia Child’s The Way to Cook: Save 2 tablespoons of the raw beaten eggs and add them near the end of the cooking time. The technique, which Julia calls creaming, stops the eggs from overcooking.
1Whisk the eggs in a medium bowl and until broken up. Season with a pinch each of salt and pepper and beat to incorporate. Place 2 tablespoons of the eggs in a small bowl; set aside.
2Heat a 10-inch nonstick frying pan over medium-low heat until hot, about 2 minutes. Add butter to the pan and, using a rubber spatula, swirl until it’s melted and foamy and the pan is evenly coated. Pour in the larger portion of the eggs, sprinkle with chives and/or tarragon (if using), and let sit undisturbed until eggs just start to set around the edges, about 1 to 2 minutes. Using the rubber spatula, push the eggs from the edges into the center. Let sit again for about 30 seconds, then repeat pushing the eggs from the edges into the center every 30 seconds until just set, for a total cooking time of about 5 minutes.
3Add remaining 2 tablespoons raw egg and stir until eggs no longer look wet. Remove from heat and season with salt and pepper as needed. Serve immediately.