13086 Serves 8 Wed Aug 06 08:23:23 -0700 2008 Fri Feb 06 23:25:59 -0800 2009 Licensed http://www.chow.com/recipes/13086 Sat, 07 Feb 2009 07:25:59 GMT In ancient times the Irish aristocracy ate native red deer. When the Normans arrived they brought in fallow deer to replace the declining population of red stag, and eating venison became more accessible to all classes. Today, raising domestic deer is becoming commonplace in Ireland. Venison is very lean and should be larded and/or marinated to prevent the meat from becoming dry when cooked. Soda bread was traditionally baked fireside in a type of Dutch oven known as a bastible. The key to baking fine soda bread is to handle the dough as little as possible (as with biscuits), bake at a high temperature, and, for a lighter crust, cover the loaf with a dry cloth while cooling. Traditionally, a cross is cut into the top of the dough, some say to allow the fairies to escape, while others believe it is to allow the devil to escape.

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Heat the oil in a nonreactive skillet over medium-high heat and sauté the onions, garlic, carrots, and celery until browned. Add all the remaining marinade ingredients and bring to a boil. Simmer for 30 minutes, then allow to cool completely.

Place the venison in a resealable plastic bag, pour the marinade over, and marinate for 1 to 3 days, refrigerated.

Sift the flour, salt, pepper, and baking soda together. Make a well in the center, pour in the buttermilk, and add the scallions.

Using a wooden spoon or spatula, gently mix the flour into the liquid, incorporating just enough of the flour to form a soft dough. (Some flour may be left over.) Turn out onto a lightly floured board and gently pat the dough into an 6-inch [15-cm] round, about 2 inches [5 cm] thick.

Place the dough in a heavy 9-inch [25-cm] baking pan and using a thin, sharp knife, cut a cross from edge to edge. Bake at 450°F [230°C] for 15 minutes.

Reduce the heat to 400°F [205°C] and bake for 10 minutes more, or until the top is browned and the bottom sounds hollow when tapped. Cover with a clean dishtowel to cool if a hearty crust is not desired.

Drain the venison, straining and reserving the marinade. Dry the venison and wrap in the bacon slices, so that all bacon ends are tucked under the venison.

Melt the butter in a nonreactive roasting pan and add the venison, bacon ends on the bottom. Roast at 425°F [220°C] for 15 minutes, reduce the heat to 375°F [190°C], and roast for about 15 minutes more, depending on the degree of doneness desired.

Remove the venison to a platter. Unwrap the bacon and allow the venison to rest.

Dice the bacon and sauté over medium heat until crisp.

Pour off all but 2 tablespoons [30 mL] of the fat in the bottom of the roasting pan. Place the pan over medium heat and deglaze the pan with the reserved marinade. Add the garlic and sauté 30 seconds.

Add the stock and vinegar, and bring to a boil. Reduce by half, then stir in the jelly. Season with salt and pepper. Season to taste. Reserve warm until service.

Cut the soda bread into small wedges and place one slice off center on a plate. Slice the venison into thin slices, reserving any juices to add to the sauce.

Fan out 3 ounces [85 g] of venison over the wide edge of the soda bread. Sprinkle the crisped bacon over the top of the venison slices. Nap the fanned venison slices with sauce and serve immediately.

]]> http://www.chow.com Arthur L. Meyer 50 Main ¼ cup [60 mL] oil

]]> 1 small onion, sliced

]]> 2 garlic cloves, minced

]]> 1 carrot, sliced

]]> 1 celery stalk, sliced

]]> ¼ cup [60 mL] red wine vinegar

]]> 3 black peppercorns, crushed

]]> ¼ cup [60 mL] gin

]]> Bouquet garni (parsley sprigs, thyme sprigs, and bay leaf)

]]> ¾ cup [180 mL] red wine

]]> ¾ cup [180 mL] game or beef stock

]]> 1½ pounds [675 g] venison tenderloin or loin

]]> 2 cups [480 mL] all-purpose flour

]]> ½ teaspoon [3 mL] salt

]]> ½ teaspoon [3 mL] ground black pepper

]]> ½ teaspoon [3 mL] baking soda

]]> ¾ cup [180 mL] buttermilk

]]> ½ cup [120 mL] scallions, minced, green and white parts

]]> 4 to 5 slices smoked bacon

]]> 2 tablespoons [30 mL] butter or bacon fat

]]> ½ cup [120 mL] reserved marinade

]]> 3 garlic cloves, finely minced

]]> 1 cup [240 mL] rich game or beef stock

]]> 1 teaspoon [5 mL] red wine vinegar

]]> 3 tablespoons [45 mL] red currant jelly

]]> Salt and ground black pepper to taste

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