12473 Serves 8 Wed Aug 06 01:08:03 -0700 2008 Fri Feb 06 23:29:46 -0800 2009 Licensed http://www.chow.com/recipes/12473 Sat, 07 Feb 2009 07:29:46 GMT Invented by andré daguin, this preserve is based on the Gascon tradition of using pepper to heighten the flavor of fruits. The recipe can be doubled or even tripled easily. Keep in mind the pears need to marinate for 3 months before eating. They are fabulous with grilled duck breasts, roast goose, or Toulouse sausages.

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For 4 pears, wash and drain two 3½ cup glass preserving jars with lids and new rubber rings. Place in a pan of water and slowly heat to boiling. Drain upside down on a clean kitchen towel.

Peel and drop the pears into a bowl of water acidulated with the juice of ½ lemon to prevent discoloration.

In an enameled or stainless steel saucepan, bring the wine and sugar to a boil, stirring until the sugar dissolves; boil for 1 minute. Drain the pears and add to the wine syrup. Simmer for 3 minutes.

Pack 2 pears in each clean, hot jar. Bring the wine syrup to a boil and boil 4 to 5 minutes to intensify flavor. Add the peppercorns and Armagnac, return to a boil, and pour boiling syrup over the pears, filling to within ½ inch of the top of the jar, or until the indicated level. Do not overpack jars. (If there is any leftover juice, freeze for a tiny granita—see Note at right.)

Use a clean wooden spoon to stir the fruit gently to let any air bubbles escape. With a paper towel, wipe the mouths of the jars clean of any syrup. Set the new rubber rings in place and seal the jars at once. Gently lower onto a rack set in a deep pot or water canner filled with enough lukewarm water to cover the jars by at least 1 inch. Bring to a boil. Cover the pot and boil vigorously 1 hour. Don't be tempted to reduce the cooking time—the wine must be fully cooked. Let the jars cool in the water before removing. Using tongs, transfer the jars to a rack to rest overnight.

The following day, test for a full seal by loosening the clamps and holding the jars from the top. If they don't open, the seals have been completed. (Be sure to have your other hand underneath to catch a jar, if necessary.) If there is a bad seal, do not plan to store the fruits. Instead, refrigerate and use within the week. Label fully sealed jar or jars and store in a cool place for 3 months before opening.

The day before you plan to serve the pears, open the jars and stir ¼ cup uncooked red wine into each. Chill overnight. Serve ½ pear per serving, with a little of the syrup. Serve with an extra grinding of fresh black pepper. If too sweet, add a dash of lemon juice.

Leftover juices make a delicious granita. Add orange and lemon juice to taste (about 3 tablespoons orange juice and 1 tablespoon lemon juice for each cup leftover red wine syrup.) Simply freeze until slushy. Break up mixture in food processor, return to freezer, and freeze until hard.

]]> http://www.chow.com Paula Wolfert 50 Main 4 perfect, but not completely ripe, pears, preferably Anjou

]]> Juice of ½ lemon

]]> 3½ cups full-bodied red wine such as Madiran, California Petite Sirah, or Spanish Rioja, plus ¼ cup before serving

]]> 1½ cups sugar

]]> 1 scant tablespoon black peppercorns, rinsed and patted dry

]]> ½ cup Armagnac

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