12404 Serves 4 to 6 Wed Aug 06 01:06:19 -0700 2008 Tue Feb 03 11:53:56 -0800 2009 Licensed http://www.chow.com/recipes/12404 Tue, 03 Feb 2009 19:53:56 GMT Bordeaux chef christian clément introduced me to this unique way of treating shallots: cooked very slowly for a long time in rendered goose or duck fat, as if they were pieces of duck or goose confit. When the shallots have become soft and translucent, they are caramelized in a skillet over high heat or in a hot oven. The juicy kidneys are served not with a sauce but with the soft, sweet shallots. This dish is especially good with potatoes sautéed in goose fat.

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Reserve 3 tablespoons of the poultry fat for cooking the kidneys. In a small heavy saucepan, warm the remaining fat and 3 tablespoons water over very low heat to body temperature. Slip the shallots into the warm fat and simmer slowly for about 1½ hours, or until they become translucent and very soft. Gently remove with a slotted spoon and set aside; reserve 2 tablespoons of the fat. (Remaining fat can be used for potatoes or confit.)

With a sharp knife, remove as much of the fat and membrane covering the kidneys as possible, leaving them whole. Place the 3 tablespoons fat reserved at the beginning of Step 1 in a heavy medium skillet over moderately high heat. Add the kidneys and sauté for 4 minutes. Turn over and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until the kidneys are firm but not too resistant to pressure; they should be very pink inside. (Kidneys that weigh 1 pound cook in 10 minutes, 4½ to 5 minutes per side.) Remove the kidneys to a wire rack set over a plate to catch any juices. Cover loosely with foil to keep warm.

Wipe out the skillet with paper towels. Add the 2 tablespoons reserved fat from the shallots and place over moderately high heat. Add the shallots and cook, tossing frequently, until browned and caramelized all over, about 5 minutes.

With a sharp knife, cut the kidneys slightly on the diagonal into thin slices; discard any extra juices. Arrange the slices, overlapping in a flowerlike ring, on warm plates. Season lavishly with freshly ground pepper and salt lightly. Place the shallots in the center of the kidneys and serve hot.

If a sauce is desired, make the White Bordeaux Wine Sauce (page 254).

]]> http://www.chow.com Paula Wolfert 50 Main 1 cup rendered goose or duck fat

]]> ½ pound large shallots, about 1 inch in diameter, peeled

]]> 2 light-colored, very fresh veal kidneys (about 12 ounces each)

]]> Freshly ground black pepper and coarse kosher salt

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