12318 Cèpe and Walnut Cream Tarts Serves 8 Wed Aug 06 01:03:42 -0700 2008 Wed Feb 04 06:30:34 -0800 2009 Licensed http://www.chow.com/recipes/12318 Wed, 04 Feb 2009 14:30:34 GMT Twenty years ago, when self-taught chef Michel Bras was relatively unknown, this was his signature dish, and I loved it. Today, Bras is a Michelin three-star chef working in his home town, Laguiole, in the Aveyron, a magnificently savage rural area in the high pasturelands of the Aubrac Mountains. He gathers almost all his ingredients from the local countryside: crayfish and trout in the streams, lambs and calves on the farms; mushrooms and nuts, apples, raspberries, and wild herbs.

A perfect example of Michel Bras's style are these irresistible tarts of wild mushrooms with a creamy walnut filling, a dish that conveys to me the essence of the forest. They make a great first course. Michel's wife, Ginette, who acts as sommelier in his restaurant, suggested I accompany the tarts with a Gaillac Premières Côtes of Robert Plageoles. This is a curious wine, called a vin de voile, on account of the way its vines are trained to grow low on very soft sandy soil, so that they spread themselves over the earth almost like a sheet. I found this tawny-colored wine smooth, fragrant, and rather sweet—excellent with the tart. Since vin de voile is virtually unobtainable in this country, I suggest you accompany the dish with a fine dry sherry.

You will need eight 4½-inch flan rings or tart molds.

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  • Make the Pâte Brisée (pastry dough) the day before or bring it to room temperature if premade. Trim the cèpes' stems and wipe the caps with a damp paper towel. Blanch the mushrooms for 5 minutes in plenty of salted boiling water. Drain and rinse quickly under cold running water to stop the cooking and remove the excess salt; drain and press in kitchen towels until thoroughly dry.
  • In a nut grinder or with the shredding disk of a food processor, grate the walnuts; there will be about ⅔ cup.
  • Soak the bread in the milk for 5 to 10 minutes, until completely softened. Squeeze dry and place the bread in a food processor. Add the egg, ham, walnuts, and shallot and grind to a smooth paste. Scrape into a bowl, cover, and refrigerate for 45 minutes.
  • Using a fork, gradually work small amounts of the cold heavy cream into the walnut mixture. Each portion of cream must be blended in before the next is added. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
  • Meanwhile, roll out the dough to about 1/8-inch thickness between sheets of plastic wrap to make a large rectangle. Fold the pastry dough into thirds like an envelope. Rotate the dough one quarter turn and repeat the rolling and folding. Chill the dough for 20 minutes, then cut it into 8 equal pieces.
  • Roll out each portion of dough between plastic wrap to a paper-thin round and fit into the flan rings or tart molds. If necessary, patch with odd pieces of dough. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate while you repeat with the remaining pieces of dough. Set all the molds on a baking sheet; use a dark-finish baking sheet for a crisper crust.
  • Preheat the oven to 400°F. Spread a thin, even layer of the walnut filling over the dough in each mold. Cut the cèpe caps into very thin slices; fan out the slices slightly and place on top of the filling. Brush the sliced mushrooms with a little melted butter mixed with the crushed garlic, salt, and pepper.
  • Bake the tarts on the middle rack of the oven for 30 minutes. Sprinkle a few drops of walnut oil over the mushrooms. Serve hot.
    • ]]>     http://www.chow.com Paula Wolfert 50 Main Pâte Brisée (page 92)]]> 2 pounds very small, firm, fresh cèpes, porcini, boletes, or small mushrooms

    ]]>     2 ounces shelled walnuts

    ]]>     1⅓ packed cups toasted or fried bread cubes

    ]]>     ½ cup milk or water

    ]]>     1 large egg, lightly beaten

    ]]>     2 ounces cured ham, such as jambon de Bayonne, Serrano ham, or prosciutto, finely diced

    ]]>     1 large shallot, chopped

    ]]>     2½ tablespoons butter, melted

    ]]>     ½ cup heavy cream, chilled

    ]]>     Salt and freshly ground pepper

    ]]>     1 garlic clove, crushed

    ]]>     1 to 2 tablespoons French walnut oil

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