CHOW Bagel
TIME/SERVINGS
Total: 2 hrs 15 mins
Active: 35 mins
Makes: 12 bagels
By Melissa Wagenberg Lasher
Never have bagels been more abundant or elusive: Most bakeries, coffee shops, and corner delis hawk them, but an authentic crackly, chewy bagel is as common as a tasty burrito in Dubuque. Tired of settling for bland impostors, we turned to our own oven.
Traditional bagels are made of high-gluten flour, yeast, water, salt, and malt. Some bagelries substitute sugar, brown sugar, or honey for the malt. In the name of convenience, we started with basic pantry items and then added more esoteric ingredients to build a more bona fide bagel flavor and texture. After baking nearly 100 bagels, we’re confident that our recipe produces the best in the West.
What to buy: Malt syrup is a natural sweetener made from a mash of corn and barley that is not quite as sweet as honey and has a slightly earthy note; it adds that distinct maltiness that makes a bagel really taste bagel-y. It can be found in natural food stores or online.
Game plan: The bagels are best when eaten within an hour but are pretty darn good... read more
- 1 1/2 cups tepid water (105°F to 110°F) plus 1 tablespoon for the egg wash
- 1 (1/4-ounce) packet active dry yeast (2 1/4 teaspoons)
- 4 cups bread flour
- 2 tablespoons malt syrup
- 2 tablespoons kosher salt
- 4 teaspoons granulated sugar
- 1 large egg white
- Sesame seeds, poppy seeds, or coarse salt for topping
- Place 1 1/2 cups of the tepid water in a bowl and dissolve the yeast completely; set aside. Combine flour, malt syrup, salt, and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment. Add yeast mixture, scraping any undissolved yeast out of the bowl with a spatula.
- Mix on low until most of the loose flour has been worked into the dough and the dough looks shredded, about 2 minutes. Increase the speed to medium low and continue mixing until the dough is stiff, smooth, and elastic, about 8 to 9 minutes more. (If the dough gets stuck on the hook or splits into 2 pieces, stop the machine, scrape off the hook, and mash the dough back into the bottom of the bowl.) The dough should be dry, not tacky or sticky, and somewhat stiff.
- Shape the dough into a ball, place it in a large oiled bowl, and turn it to coat in oil. Cover the bowl with a damp towel and let the dough rise in a warm place, until it is noticeably puffy and springs back when you poke it, about 20 minutes. (The dough will not double in size.)
- Meanwhile, heat the oven to 425°F and arrange the rack in the middle. Fill a large, wide, shallow pan (about 3 to 6 quarts) with water, bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to medium low and let simmer. Cover until you’re ready to boil the bagels. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper greased with oil or cooking spray. Place a metal rack inside of a second baking sheet and set aside.
- Turn the risen dough out onto a dry surface. Divide the dough into 12 equal pieces, about 3 ounces each. (While you work, keep the dough you’re not handling covered with a damp towel to prevent drying.) Roll each piece into a 9-inch-long rope, lightly moisten the ends with water, overlap the ends by about 1 inch, and press to join so you’ve created a bagel. As necessary, widen the hole in the middle so it is approximately the size of a quarter. Cover the shaped bagels with a damp towel and let rest 10 minutes.
- After resting, stretch the dough to retain the quarter-size hole (the dough will have risen a bit) and boil the bagels 3 or 4 at a time, making sure they have room to bob around. Cook for about 30 seconds on each side until the bagels have a shriveled look, then remove to the baking sheet with the rack in it. Adjust heat as necessary so the water stays at a simmer.
- Whisk together the remaining 1 tablespoon water and the egg white until evenly combined. Brush the egg wash all over the bagels, then sprinkle as desired with poppy seeds, sesame seeds, or coarse salt. Arrange the bagels on the baking sheet lined with parchment paper about 1 inch apart and bake. Rotate the pan after 15 minutes and bake until the bagels are a deep caramel color and have formed a crust on the bottom and top, about 10 minutes more. Remove from the oven and let cool on a rack for at least 30 minutes so the interiors finish cooking and the crusts form a chewy exterior.
COMMENTS | ADD YOUR OWN
2 tablespoons of salt seems a little heavy handed for 1 pound of flour?
Are you adding anything to the water when you boil?
Very inexpensive barley malt syrup can be purchased at Chinese grocery stores. A one-pound container costs about $1.00 and should last you a long time. Power users should direct themselves to a homebrew shop to purchase malt in either syrup or powder form, the latter being easier to work with.
The Cook's Illustrated bagel recipe uses only 2 teaspoons of salt along with 4 cups of flour. Maybe the two tablespoons listed here is a typo.
papi: We test using Diamond Kosher Salt here in the CHOW test kitchen and as you can see in this article - http://www.chow.com/stories/10784- there is a big difference between using one or the other in a recipe. That said Cook's most likely is using table salt and not kosher salt thus the difference in the amounts.
Even using the 1:2 ratio, that would mean that this is calling for 2 tablespoons (or 6 teaspoons) would still be 3 teaspoons of table salt. Either way, it makes a strong case for always using weight measures instead of volume measures, especially for baking.
Eggwash has no place on a bagel; the boiling should make the surface shine.
Also, avoid the oil, as the bagel ends won't stick together well, if at all.
I made a batch of these tonight. Texture-wise, they were right on. Salt-wise though, WHOA. Way too salty. They would have been downright inedible had I topped them with kosher salt in addition to the two tablespoons.
you only let these rise for 20 minutes???? how can it have any flavor other than undeveloped yeast and salt?
I've been baking my own bagels since moving to the UK. I use our bread machine which works fine for the mixing. I think the amount of salt is way too much. I'll try the malt to see what happens... thanks for that tip. I think the amount of rising time varies from one place to another. Mine usually rise for only 20 to 30 minutes and do fine. My recipe calls for forming the bagels before the rising. Does it matter?
Addendum... my recipe also calls for putting sugar into the boiling water. Maybe that's unnecessary.
If you really want to improve the flavor, take 2 ounces (60g) each of flour and water and a small pinch of yeast and mix together. Loosely cover and let sit for 18-24 hours. This will produce a starter/sponge that will add great flavor to the final bagels.
Another modification, it to add some whole wheat flour. Substitute 2-4 ounces (60-120g) of WW flour for the bread flour. You will need to 1 or 2 teaspoons of total water for each ounce to offset the additional liquid the WW flour will absorb.
We make bagels for our family 3 times a week plus all our other breads. Its much less expensive than buying, and the taste is great.
@zuriga1 Adding the sugar (I use brown sugar) to the water will really improve the quality of the crust on the bagel. The sugar in the water will permeate the outside of the bagel and provide extra caramelization in the crust.
Ah, brown sugar. I will definitely try that... thanks, cmoewes. So far, I've only used what's known as caster sugar in the UK.
A word of caution. If the water is boiling vigorously, the bagel will be deflated and bizarre when it comes out of the pot. I would recommend just the barest boil/highest simmer you can manage. When they say "simmer," they mean "simmer." Seriously, don't boil them.
Oh -- and I don't want to belabor the point about people not really knowing what's available in the Midwest -- but Iowa and Nebraska have a pretty substantial immigrant population in association with the meat packing industries. I would be very surprised if there weren't a number of excellent burritos to be had in Dubuque!
How much sugar are you adding to the water?
I don't really measure it, but maybe a golf ball sized piece, 1/8 c maybe.
I've made this recipe a few times now with some adjustments and it comes out great, better than any of the fluffy monstrosities I find in even the "good" bagel shop in town. I cut the salt to two teaspoons (2 tablespoons is way too much!), added some brown sugar and a few drops of wine vinegar to my simmering water (the vinegar keeps the bagels from coming apart at the joined seam when they boil) and bake at 400 degrees (my oven runs a bit high). Great recipe (but cut back that salt!).
I finally got to try the recipe and agree it's a real winner - except for the salt. Like Shara, I cut it back to 2 tsp. which worked just fine. I did find the dough a bit sticky, but that may be due to the difference in UK flour and measurements.
I tried this recipe this morning and it turned out great. Like others, I cut back on the salt to 2 tsps and I found that it could have used a little more. Maybe 1 more tsp. I think 2 tbsp of salt (kosher) would still be too much. I boiled the bagels with brown sugar in the water and it seemed to work well.
I found the malt syrup a little difficult to work with... very sticky. I found a jar at Whole Foods, but it was a bit pricey at $5. I have brewed my own beer in the past... need to brew a couple batches this year. Instead of malt syrup, I'm going to try DME. This is a powder version of malt syrup. As long as you keep it in a cool dry place, it will last forever and handles like sugar crystals. I'll try this next time.
Also, I may try making the dough the night before, wrap it up, and refrigerate over night. This may help enhance the flavor. The next morning, I'll just let it rise for an hour or so.
Interesting, Throckmorton. I found the malt syrup at Whole Foods, too. But it was the one in London. :-)
P.S. -- DME is short for Dehydrated Malt Extract. You can buy it at most home brew suppliers.
If anyone reading this lives in Ottawa, Ontario Canada PLEASE try and get better bagels. I love your city and will retire there but the bagels are AWFUL!!!!
I would like to make this recipe the night before and boil and bake them the next morning. Should the dough rise and then put it in the fridge- or should it rise and be formed into bagel shape and then put in the fridge? thanks.
I would shape them first and then fridge them. They won't develop much in the fridge, but their flavor will probably improve. Take them out when you start preheating the oven to give them a chance to warn up otherwise your water temp will drop too much when you drop the cold bagels in to simmer.
Instead of trying to shape the dough I cut the dough into slices and poked my thumb through the middle and shaped. No worries about it coming apart. I tried a recipe from another website but want to try this one. My bagels seemed to be missing the "bagel flavor". Does malt really make that much of a difference? What about the yeast?
Do give this recipe a try. I've been using it for a long time, and it sure beats anything I could buy in the UK. I find the malt has made a big difference - do a before and after to see if you find the same thing. Brown sugar in the boiling water also seems to have an effect.
I've made these a few times, but the salt amount is INCORRECT. I oversalt everything - love salty!!! - and after reading these comments about these bagels being too salty, as well as the rebuttal by aidam about the use of kosher salt - I made my first batch with only 1 TBS of kosher salt (David's). And they were waaaaaaaaaay to salty, even for me and my salt-loving self. Salty to the point of bitterness, and I had to toss them. For my second batch, I dropped the salt down farther, to 3 tsp. These were much better, but still rather salty. So now I've settled on 2 tsp, which is perfect. Perhaps this recipe should read 2 TEASPOONS, not tablespoons?
My other mods: sub 1c wheat flour and 1c all-purpose for 2c of bread flour; increase rise time to 1 hour; add a small palmful of brown sugar to the boil water; and skip the eggwash. They come out shiny and nicely browned, and taste delicious.
To cmoewes and any other US citizen resident in the UK. If you are used to using lye in your water to boil the bagels, then it's called caustic soda over here also for the strong flour to make the bagels in the first place try Waitrose extra strong Canadian bread flour!
Zuriga, go to Boots and buy Malt Extract it's not too expensive and will give a great taste.
I would like to make this recipe the night before and boil and bake them the next morning. Should the dough rise and then put it in the fridge- or should it rise and be formed into bagel shape and then put in the fridge? thanks.
howell | Jun 26, 2008 05:14PM
Make them and shape them then put them in the fridge to prove over ight, they will get an exceptional depth of flavour that way!
I've been baking my own bagels since moving to the UK. I use our bread machine which works fine for the mixing. I think the amount of salt is way too much. I'll try the malt to see what happens... thanks for that tip. I think the amount of rising time varies from one place to another. Mine usually rise for only 20 to 30 minutes and do fine. My recipe calls for forming the bagels before the rising. Does it matter?
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zuriga1 | May 06, 2008 12:28PM
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Hey I don't wish to sound like an advert for Waitrose but their Malted Grain Bread Flour is another way to get malt into your bagels lol Hovis make a Malted Bread Flour too!
Thanks for the tips, Pete. I did find Malt Syrup awhile back at Holland & Barratt. I liked the addition! The malted bread flour is a good idea, which I'll remember. I have a recipe for a mustard/carrot bread and that calls for malted flour so I'll get some.
Recently, I switched to a recipe for bagels from The Hairy Bikers (Bakers) Christmas programme. It's a very good recipe - was on the web way back.
Do you live in one of the Romneys? :-) My mother-in-law lived there for years.
Hi zuriga, yes I live on Romney Marsh in Kent, although at present I'm just off the Marsh in Hythe, it doesn't feel right here, I actually have to go above sea level to get home lol!!!!
After several attempts, heres what I like for my ingredients:
1 1/2 cups warm water
1 packet active dry yeast
4 cups bread flour (recommend King Arthur Bread Dough)
4 tablespoons brown sugar
1 tablespoon kosher salt.
Side Note:
When dropping the bagels in the hot water, if the bagel didnt float to the top immediately, it means the dough wasnt left alone long enough to rise. And usually, the texture of the bagel after baking them will not be completed on the inside. When biting into the bagel, it may feel like the inside is not fully done.
For better results, let the bagel shapped dough rise for at least 1-2 hours (in room temp and kept moist). If the bagels float immediately when dropped in the hot water, its usually a good sign the dough was left long enough for it to rise.
I also like to add brown sugar to the boiling water. The amount depends on you.
I tried this recipe and highly recommend NOT dropping bagels into a strong boil. You will have a mess. A strong simmer is best. Better yet, order from http://www.nybagelbox.com it easier and they are super fresh. I order the Big Box and slice and freeze them in ziplocs.
@ginager. I agree too that bagels should not be dropped into hot bubbling water.
Thanks for all the great advice. I'm in bagel hell here in SW Florida. I just bought some hi gluten flour and am going to give it a try . I'm ISO that bagel smell that wafts up your nose as you get near the bagel place (NY MANY years ago...not even good bagels in NY anymore). So it might be the Malt (DME) or Malt Syrup and brown sugar in the boiling water I'm looking for. Wish me luck!
I wish you luck Chickpea. I was just visiting the States and went to NYC and Phila. The best bagel I had was in Phila. (hometown) - a nice surprise. They really varied a lot in Manhattan from awful to pretty good. I think the malt stuff really does help the recipe. Let us know what you find.
I'd love to try this recipe, but I'm a college student and I don't have a stand mixer or any other fancy kitchen gadgets. Could I make the dough by hand?