1. Rinse chickens inside and out with cool water and pat dry with paper towels. Remove necks and any innards and discard. To butterfly each chicken, use a sharp pair of poultry shears or kitchen scissors to cut down both sides of the backbone. Remove and discard the backbone.
2. Press down on each chicken’s breast to flatten it. If it won’t flatten, flip the chicken over, skin side down, and lightly score the cartilage on the back of the breastbone. Flip the chicken back over and press down again on the cartilage so the chicken is lying completely flat.
3. Place chickens in a large, shallow dish and season generously with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Pour marinade over chickens and turn them several times until evenly coated. Cover the dish and refrigerate at least 12 hours, turning chickens occasionally.
4. To prepare chickens for the grill, remove them from the marinade, allowing excess to drain away for a few minutes. If using wooden skewers, soak them in warm water for 30 minutes before proceeding.
5. To skewer, lay one chicken skin side up on a cutting board, drumsticks pointing toward you and wings pointing away. Secure the wing tips by tucking them behind the back of each wing. Flip the chicken legs over so the tops of the drumsticks, or the “knees,” are facing inward and almost touching.
6. With a skewer, pierce through the joint between the wing and the drumette. Thread the skewer through the point where the wing meets the back or the “shoulder” and through the upper edge of the breast. Continue through the other breast and shoulder and out the other side between the wing and the drumette.
7. With another skewer, pierce through the outer part of the thigh. Continue through the back of the joint between the drumstick and the thigh. Push the skewer through the cartilage at the point of the breast. Continue through the other drumstick-thigh joint and out the other side. Your bird is now ready to go on the grill. Repeat the process with the other chickens. Cover and refrigerate until ready to grill.

1. Heat a charcoal or gas grill to medium (about 350°F). Remove the chickens from the refrigerator and let them sit at room temperature while the grill heats up, at least 30 minutes.
2. Slice lemons in half crosswise. If necessary, slice a little bit of the base off each lemon (without slicing through to the fruit) so that it will sit flat. Brush cut side of each lemon half with 1 teaspoon of the olive oil and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper; set aside.
3. Place chickens on the grill skin side up and close the lid. Every 10 minutes, rotate chickens 90 degrees in a clockwise direction. After chickens have been rotated 4 times, about 40 minutes later, flip them over. Rotate chickens every 5 minutes until they have completed one rotation (360 degrees), another 20 minutes total.
4. Remove chickens from the grill when the temperature of the inner thigh registers 165°F (be sure the meat thermometer is not touching the bone) and, when pierced, the juices run clear. Let chickens rest on a cutting board for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.
5. Right before removing chickens, place lemon halves on the grill cut side down. While chickens rest, grill lemons until charred and softened, about 12 to 15 minutes.
6. Remove the skewers from the chickens and cut each chicken into eight serving pieces. Serve with grilled lemon wedges.

Beverage pairing: Boutari Moschofilero, Greece. Moschofilero is an indigenous Greek variety that is wonderfully balanced between herbal flavors and light fruits, and is light- to medium-bodied. This version is especially light, cheerful, and easy-drinking, making it a great match for the simple, delicious chicken.