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Heart Tartare, Puttanesca Style Recipe

Difficulty: Medium | Makes: 2 to 4 servings

The menu at Incanto in San Francisco almost always includes an offal dish in order to, in the words of owner Mark Pastore, “honor the whole animal.” Here is a recipe from Incanto chef Chris Cosentino using the kip heart. (“Kip” is an old butcher’s term for veal.)

INGREDIENTS

For the garlic chips:

  • 1 cup olive oil
  • 5 medium cloves garlic, peeled

For the focaccia crackers:

  • 2 (5-by-5-inch) pieces focaccia
  • Extra-virgin olive oil

For the tartare:

  • 1 pound kip heart, trimmed of sinew and gristle, and cut into small dice
  • 1 small red chile, sliced into very thin rings
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped red onion
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons salted capers, rinsed and finely chopped
  • 1 tablespoon pitted San Remo olives or other premium olives, finely chopped
  • 1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
  • 8 ripe yellow cherry tomatoes, cut into quarters
  • Splash of extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
  • 2 teaspoons thinly sliced fresh basil leaves
  • 2 teaspoons thinly sliced fresh mint leaves
INSTRUCTIONS
For the garlic chips:

  1. In a small saucepan, slowly heat the olive oil to 350°F over medium heat. While the oil heats, thinly slice the garlic on a mandoline or with a sharp knife. Once the oil comes to temperature, turn down the heat and carefully add the sliced garlic, being sure to stir so that it will not boil over.
  2. Fry until golden brown, then remove using a slotted spoon and let cool on a paper-towel-lined plate. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. To store, transfer garlic chips to a new paper towel in an airtight container. These little treats will stay crispy for up to 3 days.

For the focaccia crackers:

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Slice the focaccia as thinly as possible. (It’s easier if you freeze the bread first or use day-old bread.) Place bread slices on a baking sheet. Brush both sides with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
  2. Bake for about 3 minutes, or until golden brown and crispy. Let cool, and serve 2 per person with the tartare.

For the tartare:

  1. Combine heart with the chile, onion, capers, olives, lemon zest, and tomatoes in a nonreactive bowl. Gently mix, being careful not to break up the tomatoes, until well combined. Add the olive oil, vinegar, and herbs and mix to coat. Season with salt and black pepper, then taste and adjust the seasoning.
  2. To serve, divide the meat mixture between 8 cold plates. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil. Sprinkle with crispy garlic chips and serve with focaccia crackers.

Beverage pairing: A bright, refreshing Prosecco will provide a bit of levity and zip, while not overwhelming the flavors of this complex dish. The nonvintage Ruggeri Prosecco Frizzante, from northeastern Italy, is the perfect choice.