The menu at Incanto in San Francisco almost always includes an offal dish in order to, in the words of owner Mark Pastore, “honor the whole animal.” Here is a recipe from Incanto chef Chris Cosentino using the kip heart. (“Kip” is an old butcher’s term for veal.)
- 1In a small saucepan, slowly heat the olive oil to 350°F over medium heat. While the oil heats, thinly slice the garlic on a mandoline or with a sharp knife. Once the oil comes to temperature, turn down the heat and carefully add the sliced garlic, being sure to stir so that it will not boil over.
- 2Fry until golden brown, then remove using a slotted spoon and let cool on a paper-towel-lined plate. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. To store, transfer garlic chips to a new paper towel in an airtight container. These little treats will stay crispy for up to 3 days.
For the focaccia crackers:
- 1Preheat the oven to 350°F. Slice the focaccia as thinly as possible. (It’s easier if you freeze the bread first or use day-old bread.) Place bread slices on a baking sheet. Brush both sides with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
- 2Bake for about 3 minutes, or until golden brown and crispy. Let cool, and serve 2 per person with the tartare.
For the tartare:
- 1Combine heart with the chile, onion, capers, olives, lemon zest, and tomatoes in a nonreactive bowl. Gently mix, being careful not to break up the tomatoes, until well combined. Add the olive oil, vinegar, and herbs and mix to coat. Season with salt and black pepper, then taste and adjust the seasoning.
- 2To serve, divide the meat mixture between 8 cold plates. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil. Sprinkle with crispy garlic chips and serve with focaccia crackers.
Beverage pairing: A bright, refreshing Prosecco will provide a bit of levity and zip, while not overwhelming the flavors of this complex dish. The nonvintage Ruggeri Prosecco Frizzante, from northeastern Italy, is the perfect choice.