danebaxter's Profile
9+ days in Mexico City: Where should we EAT?!
I second the recommendation of El Cardenal and Dulce Patria. At El Bajío, make sure you get the empanadas de plátano and the mole de Xico -- they're both fabulous. If you're looking for regional Mexican food, I love Con Sabor a Tixtla in the Roma. The family is from Guerrero and they make an amazing, herbal mole verde and sweet-and-savory stuffed jalapeños. Actually everything on the menu is good there, so you really can't go wrong.
For your first night in the Centro, I really like Al Andar, which is on Calle Regina. It's a tiny place with murals on the walls and good tacos and salads. Plus they've got a great mezcal selection and Mexican microbrews. (What better way to ring in your first night in town?) I think they close around midnight or 1 a.m.
On food destinations, I'd recommend Puebla, although it's not really a day trip. Xochimilco -- about 45 minutes southeast of Mexico City's center -- is also a fabulous place to eat, especially if it's at the market.
You sound fairly adventurous on your own, but if you're up for a guided street food or market tour, I organize them through my company, Eat Mexico. My email address is lesley@eatmexico.com if you want more details. Have a great time on your trip!
Mexico City restaurant that isn't Pujol
I'd recommend Dulce Patria, Martha Ortiz's new restaurant. It's in Polanco off Masaryk and Anatole France, inside the Las Alcobas Hotel. I've been twice and enjoyed it both times -- fantastic cocktails (you have to get the guanábana margarita), upscale setting. The menu doesn't toy with molecular gastronomy as much as Pujol's does, but the food is solid and well-prepared. It's Mexican with a creative twist from Martha.
Fine Italian Restaurant in Mexico city...
Rosetta in Roma is pretty much regarded as the best Italian restaurant in the city right now. I went once and liked it fine, but I also had a stomach bug, so I'm probably not the best critic. The ambiance is great -- it's in an old mansion with high ceilings, which kind of evokes an Italianate villa. The bread and pastas are all made in house.
I also recently visited Salotto in Polanco, a new Northern Italian place. It was good but it didn't knock my socks off. (Then again, I've never eaten Northern Italian food in Italy, so I don't have much to compare it to.)
6 hour layover in DF and need dinner rec
I like the El Bajío idea -- it's classic Mexican food done right, and the corn tortillas are among the best I've ever had. If you go, *please* order the empanadas de plátano -- you won't regret it. You could dine in the one in Polanco, and try to catch one of the museums, either Rufino Tamayo or the Anthropology Museum. The latter would be a lot to squeeze into even two hours, but if you're okay with feeling slightly overwhelmed, it's worth it.
One Night in Mexico City--Suggestions??
I heard from Martha Ortiz's folks last month; they said Dulce Patria was scheduled to open during the third week in May.
Seeking feedback on Casa Mexico and Oca in D.F.
This goes contrary to what most people say, but I don't think Pujol is a must. Granted, the food there is quite good, and the wine list is excellent. Enrique Olvera definitely offers his own unique interpretation of Mexican food in terms of experimenting with molecular gastronomy. (For instance: the amuse there, the last time I went, was a "shot glass" of a quesadilla or a gringa -- basically a drink intended to taste just like the food.)
To me, on my last two visits, the prices were a wee bit too high for the quality of the food. The kobe beef steak huarache was I think between $15 and $20 USD, and it didn't knock my socks off -- it really just made me want a street huarache. I'm not saying Pujol is bad, because I enjoyed the robalo tacos al pastor that I ordered. But there are so many other great places to try in this city that deserve their own spotlight, and that are cheaper. I'd say skip Pujol this time around and try some of those spots. And of course, you must have some street food when you're in town too. It'll help put everything in perspective. :-)
Seeking feedback on Casa Mexico and Oca in D.F.
I've dined at both, and loved them. Info and pics on Oca here: http://lesleytellez.wordpress.com/2009/12/21/high-class-mediterranean-cuisine-oca-in-polanco/ .... And Casa Mexico here: http://lesleytellez.wordpress.com/2010/03/08/where-to-eat-in-mexico-city-casa-mexico/
They're both very different experiences -- it depends on what you're in the mood for. Oca is fabulous but it's not explicitly Mexican. The menu is more Mediterranean influenced, and a little more cutting edge and modern than Casa Mexico. (For example: Oca's amuse bouche is crystalized squash flowers!) Also, it's a lot more expensive than Casa. But worth it, IMO.
Casa Mexico's biggest strength is its interesting regional Mexican dishes -- you won't find them on most Mexico City menus, and the prices are extremely affordable for the quality. I haven't been since January so they may have changed or updated the menu. But the last time I was there, I loved it. The service can be a little inconsistent, but you have to adjust your expectations for Mexico City and not the U.S. For DF, the service is pretty good.
You should definitely visit one of the two. And if you have time, squeeze in a visit to Charro in Condesa. It's a high-end, kind of whimsical take on Mexican food, at slightly lower prices than what you'd pay at Pujol. I'm blogging about it soon -- if you go, you MUST get the sugar-dusted Oaxacan quesadillas with mole and chocolate. And an artisanal mescal, which they serve in a jícara, a hollowed-out gourd.
Suerte! I'm interested to know how it goes, so send an update if you end up visiting these places.
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Casa Mexico
Genova 70, Mexico City, Distrito Federal 06600, MX
Craft beer/microbreweries in Mexico City?
Hey -- I thought of you last night, found Cucapá on the menu at La Nacional. It's a great little mezcalería/restaurant in Roma, about five or six blocks from Lucille. I think it's on Orizaba, too. (You can try looking for it on Chilango.com, Mexico City's main city magazine.) They have Bayernbrau there too! I specifically remember because I had no idea what it was. :-) Their list of Mexican beers is quite long, but they were out of several bottles yesterday -- they pretty much had just the Cucapá and a few others.
On La Belga: Love that place. It's take-out only.
Craft beer/microbreweries in Mexico City?
I just saw Cucapa on the menu last night at Merotoro, a new restaurant in Condesa. It's a fairly nice place -- not a pub by any means. I'd call beforehand just to make sure they have it. (They're easily Googleable.) If you go, I highly recommend the spinach and artichoke ravioli!
As for bars with Mexican craft brews: Lucille in Roma has Tempus and Minerva, which I think are brewed in Guadalajara. (Although the former might be brewed here in D.F.) It's a cool, chill little spot. Located on Orizaba, at the corner of Tabasco. You could also try El Black in the Centro -- a friend went there recently and enjoyed it. More info on that here: http://danielhernandez.typepad.com/daniel_hernandez/2010/04/beer-joint.html
Salon Corona in the Centro recently started stocking Tijuana, which is a craft brew made in TJ. My husband also wrote a blog post on his search for Mexican craft beers in DF, in case it's helpful: http://lesleytellez.wordpress.com/2010/02/04/beer-oclock/
Suerte!
High Altitude Baking
I live in DF and have struggled with this too. Haven't found one particular website with all the answers. I've had the most problems with bread -- sometimes it rises, and sometimes it doesn't. Although that could be because my apartment is drafty. I've had no problems with pies, pancakes and muffins. Made brownies once and they were fantastic.
My best advice would be to not trust any recipe 100 percent, and be cautious with the amount of flour and liquid you add. Sometimes I end up adding more flour than the recipe calls for, because the dough is too wet; sometimes it seems like I need more liquid. I know that's kind of a lame answer.
Mexico City - Four Day Visit - Suggestions/Thoughts?
In terms of cocktails, how about a mescal bar? I love Felina in Condesa -- technically not a mezcal bar per se, but they do have great ambience, chill music, and a nice selection of artisan mescals. It's at Baja California and Ozulama, I believe. La Botica is another mescal bar in Condesa, but in my experience it's always super crowded, noisy and difficult to find a table. If you're up for a journey to Coyoacan, Corazón de Maguey (formerly O Mayatl) is also a great place to have mescal, or a mescal cocktail. It's right on the plaza. They've got nice apps too -- I enjoyed the guacamole with chapulines.
Another fave of mine is Salón Conde in Condesa, off of Tamaulipas and Michoacan. Great for tacos and other casual eats, and they've got wonderful in-house cocktails, and a DJ that plays anything from Van Halen to Daft Punk. Might be a nice balance to the fancier places like Pujol.
If you can swing it, do El Cardenal in the Centro Historico for breakfast. It's fabulous.
Breakfast in Mexico City
I second Bondy. Their conchas are out of this world. Actually, a few weeks ago I hosted a Mexico City concha-roll taste test on my blog, and Bondy was the clear winner. Link here: http://bit.ly/GPUTb. Nothing else at Bondy rivals the conchas, but the food is above average, I'd say. I enjoyed their chilaquiles, which they douse in a creamy poblano sauce. It's an interesting variation on the usual chilaquiles.
anomalously excellent food in mexico city airport
I tried Tacañon a few months ago -- it was great! Here is how I found it: Walking from the far end of the terminal (American Airlines check-in counter/Sala F3 area), we walked past Bistro Mosaico, and through the food court. At the end of the food court, we saw a little hallway to the right, which didn't look like it led anywhere. But we turned right there, and sure enough, up on the left, there was Tacañon. It's not in the Food Court area proper, but very close to it.
Mother and child chowhounds in D.F.
Sounds like you had a fantastic experience! On your taxi comment: I live in Mexico City, and I've found that it's common for restaurants (even nice ones) to call a taxi that doesn't have a meter, or appears to be a plain old sedan. I've never been worried, because I've assumed that the driver is a "taxista de confianza" -- basically someone the restaurant trusts to take their clients home. I've been here five months and never had a bad experience with these taxis. Granted, would I hail one off the street? Never. But if a restaurant is calling one for you, the prevailing notion is that they're as safe as a sitio.
Brief Report - 10-days in Mexico City
I adore La Polar! And I am one of those people who likes birria. It's seriously amazing there. And I like the mariachis too... although sometimes it's a bit loud.
Solo Diners?
I'm probably way too late on this one, but just in case someone else has the same issue in the future...
I live in Cuauhtemoc, and my favorite Mexican place is Tacos El Caminero on Rio Lerma, behind the American Embassy. Truly fabulous salsas there, and beer in chilled glasses. Outside of that, I'd walk to some of the other nearby neighborhoods, because most of the nice restaurants in Cuauhtemoc are Argentinean. (Unless you want street food, in which case, Tacos Don Guero at the corner of Rio Lerma and Guadalquivir is awesome.)
Here are three other places I'd recommend: Cantina Belmont in Col. Juarez is a short walk from Cuauhtemoc, and they've got fabulous tableside salsa and cool things like quesadillas de sesos. It's kind of pricey, but the food is good. Bisquets Obregon on Calle Londres in the Zona Rosa would be great for breakfast. The food is average, but all the dishes are typically Mexican, and they've got wonderful coffee.
Stuck in Downtown Dallas - where should I eat dinner?
The bar at Charlie Palmer actually has some yummy stuff, if you're looking for a bit of a lower price point. The sriracha-barbecue chicken wings are amazing. (They look nothing like the wings you see everywhere else!) And I love the salumi platter. You kind of get the best of both worlds there.
If you like seafood, the Dallas Fish Market isn't bad. Re: short cab ride, there's a ton of new restaurants at Victory Park, which is probably five minutes away. I like La Condesa (bright, cheery, trendy Mexican place) and have heard good things about Medina, a Morrocan restaurant.
Best, authentic Mexican in San Antonio
Torres Taco Haven on South Presa has the best breakfast Tacos in San Antonio. Super hot green salsa, homemade flour tortillas, etc. Absolutely to die for. Plus the ambience is very South Texas.... there's a portrait on the wall of Munch's "The Scream," but it's been turned into a guy playing an accordion. All the out-of-towners I've ever taken there have loved it.
Trece (Dallas): Content to be just a bar?
I went to Trece about two months ago and had a similarly horrible experience. We had a reservation, too, and waited 20 mins... the hostess told us, "Feel free to go to the bar. We'll come find you." She didn't. We went back to the stand after 20 minutes were up. Ordered tableside guac as an appetizer, and that was awesome. But my entree (lobster tail, about $32) and my companion's (layered tortilla pie-thing, which I think was almost $20) came out in 15 minutes. FIFTEEN MINUTES! That's barely enough time to plate some preheated food. To make things worse, the food tasted like it came from Blue Mesa. (Not that there's anything wrong with Blue Mesa, but the prices are obviously much cheaper.) The lobster tail was rubbery and overcooked. Tortilla pie was fine, but plain. Nothing unique about it. I was really, really disappointed... we won't be back, and we're telling all our friends not to go either.
Solo dining in San Antonio by Riverwalk
I like Dolores Del Rio -- it's on the upper end of the River Walk, on the same side as the Watermark Hotel. Quiet, quirky, good Italian food. haven't been in nearly two years but I think it's still there.
Biga on the Banks is fabulous, but pricey. Food is New American. Not sure if you're on a budget or not.
I also like Acenar -- it's pretty much the furthest restaurant on the River Walk... it's in the Hotel Valencia. They have a nice mariachi brunch on Sundays. You should try a michelada there, if you're a beer drinker. They're really good. Food is upscale Tex-Mex.
Hope that helps and have fun!
San Antonio Grocery Stores
I lived in SA for two years. There's a whole range of stores on the city's heavily-Latino West Side called "Culebra Meat Market" (Culebra Meat Market #1, #2, etc.), but I'm not sure if they carry groceries or not. They are an institution in SA, though.
Also on Culebra, I think near where it forks off with Bandera (this is on the West Side, too), there's a big-box type supermarket called "La Fiesta." It always seemed to be packed.
If you're looking for more mom-and-pop type stores, your best bet might be just trolling around the West Side. The main streets are Culebra, Zarzamora. W. Commerce, Bandera and General McMullen.
One day in Dallas?
For fine dining, price is no option, I'd recommend the French Room in the Hotel Adolphus. I went last year and it was absolutely stunning.... plus Bill Addison in the DMN recently gave it five stars.