souphie's Profile

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restaurant near gare d'austerlitz?

Shandong restaurant is now Les Délices de Confucius -- ate there last week and it was as great as ever. The old Traiteur Shandong is now Le Palais du Ravioli and guess what their specialty is.

Bibimpap is also quite good, though possibly less interesting, and even closer to the station.

And sure, I applaud Quincy with all my hands. Though it's not that cheap and you have to have a sense of French "hospitality".

Dec 22, 2014
souphie in France

Planning late winter trip to the Jura for Nordic skiing and eating.

Mouthe being the coldest town in France, there is rarely much problem for cross country skiiing around the Mont d'Or and the lake of Malbuisson, which also happen to be foodie heavens. My favs are La Boissaude on the Mont d'Or and the Restaurant du Fromage in Malbuisson, but I don't think you should look down on such a starred place as Faivre's Au Bon Accueil in Malbuisson, a long time favorite of mine. As Parnassien says, food is usually great around there, home to comté, smoked meat and so mant mushrooms.

I would typically TGV to Pontarlier or Frasne to be in the Metabief/Malbuisson area.

Indeed don't expect long days of alpine skiing in the region. Snow or no snow, those are small mountains, and once you ran down the same path ten times, you'll be ready for boite chaude. Aren't you always?

Dec 15, 2014
souphie in France

Meilleurs Ouvriers?

In the greatest French bureaucratic and self-satisfied tradition, there is no public list and no map and no registry that I'm aware of. Since it's technically a diploma, I suppose the logic goes that it would like asking for a list of all the PhDs.

There is however a list for chocolatiers:
http://www.portail-du-chocolat.fr/mei...

We can try emailing the société to find out if there is a central registry, wouldn't keep my hopes up.

Dec 15, 2014
souphie in France
1

Meilleur Ouvrier de France

It is my experience that Patrick Duchêne is one of the few that is actually very good at everything, and great at quite a few.

Dec 10, 2014
souphie in France

Foods unique to France to buy in Paris?

So you want stuff you can bring home? I'd argue that most of uniquely French foods are essentially fresh: exceptional chicken is definitely something you won't find outside of France; fresh breakfast pastry and bread; raw cheese and butter indeed; seafood; even Jacques Génin's caramels and chocolates are to be consumed within ten days.

Dec 04, 2014
souphie in France
1

Le Cinq's 17 hr lamb shoulder

You can get the same results with steam ovens and cooking bags, methinks. The main advantage of a circulator is an industrial one -- you have your raw shoulder packed and ready to go in a fridge, you can cook a large number at a time and keep them warm for hours, etc.

Even easier: inside a Staub (or Le Creuset if you really prefer) cocotte in a traditional but modern oven at 90°C for ten hours should come very close (an oven thermostat is usually not reliable at those temperatures so you need to either use a thermometer or practice). Old ovens usually can't reliably maintain a low, regular temperature so it wouldn't work.

Nov 21, 2014
souphie in France

Le Cinq's 17 hr lamb shoulder

I am ready to bet that it is cooked sousvide at 50/60°, not sure where the 17h come from but that sounds like the size of it. And then it's easy to put it under the broiler, laqué it, etc. for the finish.

Nov 21, 2014
souphie in France

Dinging at L'apèrge. Anything to note?

Upon reservation would definitely be safer. Though most of those restaurants have both vegetables and able cooks. Veget-able cooks, in a word.

Nov 18, 2014
souphie in France

Dinging at L'apèrge. Anything to note?

If you've never been to a Michelin starred establishment, I'm not sure my first choice would be l'Arpège. Most top restaurants have vegetarian options or the ability to make them on request.

Nov 18, 2014
souphie in France

Le Bistro Méricourt

Remember Emmanuel Renault's expresso foam with the urchins? I guess there's not much sweetness there, though...

Nov 14, 2014
souphie in France

Le Bistro Méricourt

I don't know about this particular combination, but the classic pumpkin soup with scallops was never a way to emphasize scallops, especially if the pumpkin is Kokkaido/Potimarron style. The sweetness of even excellent scallops is no match for that of pumpkin. To me it's a play to emphasize pumpkin using the scallop texture, not taste.

Nov 13, 2014
souphie in France

France trip report

It sure does. I want some seaweed soup now. Sigh.

Nov 09, 2014
souphie in France

France trip report

The correct phrase is "when in Rome, go to Ikea"

Nov 09, 2014
souphie in France

Le Cinq or Guy Savoy?

He went for the good stuff instead. Those Devialets are everywhere indeed, alas.

Nov 07, 2014
souphie in France

Alex Croquet's Kouign Amann

By the way, Bruno Verjus has some of his meat at Table.

You know, while we're totally off topic...

Nov 07, 2014
souphie in France

Restaurants for Christmas Eve in Paris

Get oysters and foie gras in your hotel room.

Nov 05, 2014
souphie in France

Le Cinq or Guy Savoy?

He doesn't unfortunately. He has an ICOS system (glad you asked!). It's in the private dining room across the street.

Nov 05, 2014
souphie in France

Alex Croquet's Kouign Amann

Truth be told, Croquet's is probably better as anything I've had in Bretagne (and believe me, I spent time there and tasted KA any chance I got).

Nov 05, 2014
souphie in France
1

Alex Croquet's Kouign Amann

The night I had the KA at Gradlon, it felt old and re-heated. It h probably excellent as it came out of the oven, but it may have been the day before. I say that with regret as I am very fond of the entrepreneur-chef in question.

Nov 05, 2014
souphie in France

Le Cinq or Guy Savoy?

Why not, when they're awesome?

Nov 04, 2014
souphie in France

Le Cinq or Guy Savoy?

Second shot, so I'm going to disagree. Comparing as in rating by order of something on a scale is not only sterile but stupid. However, it is precisely because all top restaurants are singular that having more information about them and their style is of high value. Just because people have (slightly, frankly -- who doesn't like icecream?) different palates doesn't mean there's no objectivity here, or that these are only matters of personal taste. In fact, because people have preferences, it is very important to try to explain and understand how top restaurants are different.

For instance, Le Squer used to make the best food in town at Ledoyen, and Le V always had the best service, so I would definitely expect a winning combination there. But I would never send my steak-and-potato-silicon-valley-executive brother-in-law, whereas I would confidently send him to Guy Savoy, who has a talent for serving high end food that feels like home with very recognizable and familiar ingredients. I also know he would feel more comfortable in the more modern, less intimidating setting because he is one of those Americans who always worry about how well they did and behaved, so the playfulness would put him at ease.

Not to mention, Savoy has a much better stereo.

Nov 01, 2014
souphie in France
2

Soy-allergic and traveling to Paris

Wow! That is actually a tough one. It seems bio/organic won't be a shelter for you as they tend to favor soy and proudly use it. I'll ask around.

Nov 01, 2014
souphie in France

Le Cinq or Guy Savoy?

Two I don't trust, unfortunately. But hey, in this case, they may actually be understating how good it is.

Nov 01, 2014
souphie in France

Chirstophe Moret at Shangri-La

That is not at all the menu they gave us when we dropped by last week. This one definitely looks very lesquerized.

Oct 31, 2014
souphie in France

So no one is talking about Bruno Verjus' table? Really?

Actually, the response is here: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...

90€ dinner, 145€ with wine. I would totally risk it after today.

Oct 31, 2014
souphie in France

So no one is talking about Bruno Verjus' table? Really?

There's a couple of choices for starters and entrees, changing more or less everyday. I did not notice an evening menu, but will look next time I'm in the 'hood.

Oct 31, 2014
souphie in France

So no one is talking about Bruno Verjus' table? Really?

I went back to Bruno Verjus' table yesterday and had an excellent, and very cheap, meal (it was even cheaper as I ended up being comped, but I really had the same food as everyone else -- one, benefit of an open kitchen is that you can see that sort of things).

There is a now a 25€ lunch menu. I mean, it would rather be called a snack menu in my opinion, but that is not unique to Verjus and I know some around here would actually consider this a plus.

It started spaghetti squash with a parmesan cream and egg yolk -- a very minimalistic, vegetarian take on carbonara, but very smart and delicious.

Then there was an absolutely superb daurade. I don't think I had a fish that good since when Briffard was at les Elysées. It came with pitch perfect vegetables that would put l'Arpège to shame (if it was capable of it). The daurade has some kind of "trompette dust" oil on top, it was really well balanced. Also, cauliflower purée with some purple cauliflower bits.

Dessert was roasted pineapple with a saffron ice-cream on sablé, and again it was perfect.

The monastic/minimalistic mood is gone (so is the original chef, btw) and we now have a cooking that, judging by this meal, has found its groove -- there is some work on composing a plate and on seasoning, as opposed to that somewhat "take-that-awesome-seabass-in-your-face-and-marvel-you-peasant" attitude I felt at the opening.

Oct 31, 2014
souphie in France

Lucas Carton

I want to.

Oct 31, 2014
souphie in France

Chirstophe Moret at Shangri-La

And I didn't think it was humanly possible...

Oct 27, 2014
souphie in France

Is La Mere Brazier in Lyon still worth a try for lunch?

I stand corrected.

Oct 27, 2014
souphie in France