souphie's Profile

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A 100% Organic Michelin Star Restaurant in Monaco

Y'all are so mean

A Noste from a Curmudgeonly Minority Perspective

Read my (photo)report. Honestly, it was more of a reinterpretation of onion soup than carbonara. But good and fun.

Feb 11, 2015
souphie in France

Knives for a Paris rental kitchen

It's actually hard to find a sharp knife in Paris, let alone a cheap one. The small Nogent office knives are an exception (consider them disposable). If it was me, I would totally go a for a carbon Opinel and sharpen it myself -- cheapest way to get some slicing power around here.

Feb 10, 2015
souphie in France

A Noste from a Curmudgeonly Minority Perspective

Pics from last night's meal -- https://plus.google.com/photos/117676...

It was very enjoyable, generous and fun. The passion custard at the end made me moan. The pumpkin dish was very interesting. The rotisserie lamb was perfect.

My reservation is the same it was at Dans les Landes: how much breading and frying can you do before I get bored? But hey, who cares, it's fun and good value (I think much better value upstairs than downstairs, but the price of admission is higher).

Feb 10, 2015
souphie in France

Michelin 2015 France

Why not?

Feb 04, 2015
souphie in France

Michelin 2015 France

You know what cures my insomnia? House, M.D. I have no idea why. It used to be Rachel Maddow, but now House is just the perfect thing.

Feb 04, 2015
souphie in France

Choucroute Garni and Coq au Vin in Paris?

What they said -- choucroute at Bofinger is as good an idea as any. I'm not aware of any particularly great choucroute in Paris. And even when they are (I can think of some places near Guebwiller), how good can a choucroute be?

Coq au vin is much trickier. Some places do it occasionally, but who has it on the menu always? I feel like the question was already asked a few years back and no one knew either. At the same time if you're very intent on it you can ask for it in advance from any given, traditional restaurant.

WAIT!I remember now -- l'auberge Bressane always has the Coq au Vin "comme à Juliénas", for 24€. Not what I would get there (because I love their sweetbread, chicken...), but it's there and it's good and authentic.

Yep, forget about knives in France, unless you want the cheap ones, which are quite good for what they are. Especially the Carbone Opinel are extremely easy to sharpen, which makes for great practice in that area.

Otherwise, get your knives from http://japanesechefsknife.com/ just like everyone else; you'll get good prices, good knives, good advice, and speedy delivery no matter where you are.

Jan 26, 2015
souphie in France
2

Lucas Carton

We went yesterday. John Talbott had a soso meal and I had an exciting one. Here's my photo story (who still writes these days?) https://plus.google.com/photos/117676...

I think a lot needs improving, but I believe Dumas can and will do it, and I tasted four wonderful things yesterday (scallops, duck breast, polenta and saint-honoré) which is enough to get me excited. I am arguably excitable. But this new Lucas is already not in the same league as the Senderens that had Jérôme Banctel as a chef.

Speaking of which: wonderful early 00s Lucas-Carton, which we all miss, was a partnership (foodwise) between Alain Senderens and Frédéric Robert, the latter running La Grande Cascade now. Both restaurants (Lucas-Carton and La Grande Cascade) will cook old Lucas classics for you upon request, we should note: 000 belon cooked in puff pastried shell, langoustines royales wrapped in vermicelli...

Jan 07, 2015
souphie in France

REMINISCENSE OF BYGONE PARISIAN DINING-THE ERA OF ELEGANCE

To be fair, your meal wasn't great -- foie gras was off, and langoustines were only good. Mine was something else entirely -- my photo story (who still writes these days?) https://plus.google.com/photos/117676...

I think a lot needs improving, but I believe Dumas can and will do it, and I tasted four wonderful things yesterday (scallops, duck breast, polenta and saint-honoré) which is enough to get me excited. I am arguably excitable. But this new Lucas is already not in the same league as the Senderens that had Banctel as a chef.

Speaking of which: wonderful early 00s Lucas-Carton, which we all miss, was a partnership (foodwise) between Alain Senderens and Frédéric Robert, the latter running La Grande Cascade now. Both restaurants (Lucas-Carton and La Grande Cascade) will cook old Lucas classics for you upon request, we should note: 000 belon cooked in puff pastried shell, langoustines royales wrapped in vermicelli...

I should probably post this on the Lucas thread, eh?

Jan 07, 2015
souphie in France

REMINISCENSE OF BYGONE PARISIAN DINING-THE ERA OF ELEGANCE

Moi aussi

Jan 06, 2015
souphie in France

Le Lulli; Another one-star place without the macaron.

It's part of the excitment

Jan 01, 2015
souphie in France

restaurant near gare d'austerlitz?

Shandong restaurant is now Les Délices de Confucius -- ate there last week and it was as great as ever. The old Traiteur Shandong is now Le Palais du Ravioli and guess what their specialty is.

Bibimpap is also quite good, though possibly less interesting, and even closer to the station.

And sure, I applaud Quincy with all my hands. Though it's not that cheap and you have to have a sense of French "hospitality".

Dec 22, 2014
souphie in France

Planning late winter trip to the Jura for Nordic skiing and eating.

Mouthe being the coldest town in France, there is rarely much problem for cross country skiiing around the Mont d'Or and the lake of Malbuisson, which also happen to be foodie heavens. My favs are La Boissaude on the Mont d'Or and the Restaurant du Fromage in Malbuisson, but I don't think you should look down on such a starred place as Faivre's Au Bon Accueil in Malbuisson, a long time favorite of mine. As Parnassien says, food is usually great around there, home to comté, smoked meat and so mant mushrooms.

I would typically TGV to Pontarlier or Frasne to be in the Metabief/Malbuisson area.

Indeed don't expect long days of alpine skiing in the region. Snow or no snow, those are small mountains, and once you ran down the same path ten times, you'll be ready for boite chaude. Aren't you always?

Dec 15, 2014
souphie in France

Meilleurs Ouvriers?

In the greatest French bureaucratic and self-satisfied tradition, there is no public list and no map and no registry that I'm aware of. Since it's technically a diploma, I suppose the logic goes that it would like asking for a list of all the PhDs.

There is however a list for chocolatiers:
http://www.portail-du-chocolat.fr/mei...

We can try emailing the société to find out if there is a central registry, wouldn't keep my hopes up.

Dec 15, 2014
souphie in France
1

Meilleur Ouvrier de France

It is my experience that Patrick Duchêne is one of the few that is actually very good at everything, and great at quite a few.

Dec 10, 2014
souphie in France

Foods unique to France to buy in Paris?

So you want stuff you can bring home? I'd argue that most of uniquely French foods are essentially fresh: exceptional chicken is definitely something you won't find outside of France; fresh breakfast pastry and bread; raw cheese and butter indeed; seafood; even Jacques Génin's caramels and chocolates are to be consumed within ten days.

Dec 04, 2014
souphie in France
1

Le Cinq's 17 hr lamb shoulder

You can get the same results with steam ovens and cooking bags, methinks. The main advantage of a circulator is an industrial one -- you have your raw shoulder packed and ready to go in a fridge, you can cook a large number at a time and keep them warm for hours, etc.

Even easier: inside a Staub (or Le Creuset if you really prefer) cocotte in a traditional but modern oven at 90°C for ten hours should come very close (an oven thermostat is usually not reliable at those temperatures so you need to either use a thermometer or practice). Old ovens usually can't reliably maintain a low, regular temperature so it wouldn't work.

Nov 21, 2014
souphie in France

Le Cinq's 17 hr lamb shoulder

I am ready to bet that it is cooked sousvide at 50/60°, not sure where the 17h come from but that sounds like the size of it. And then it's easy to put it under the broiler, laqué it, etc. for the finish.

Nov 21, 2014
souphie in France

Dinging at L'apèrge. Anything to note?

Upon reservation would definitely be safer. Though most of those restaurants have both vegetables and able cooks. Veget-able cooks, in a word.

Nov 18, 2014
souphie in France

Dinging at L'apèrge. Anything to note?

If you've never been to a Michelin starred establishment, I'm not sure my first choice would be l'Arpège. Most top restaurants have vegetarian options or the ability to make them on request.

Nov 18, 2014
souphie in France

Le Bistro Méricourt

Remember Emmanuel Renault's expresso foam with the urchins? I guess there's not much sweetness there, though...

Nov 14, 2014
souphie in France

Le Bistro Méricourt

I don't know about this particular combination, but the classic pumpkin soup with scallops was never a way to emphasize scallops, especially if the pumpkin is Kokkaido/Potimarron style. The sweetness of even excellent scallops is no match for that of pumpkin. To me it's a play to emphasize pumpkin using the scallop texture, not taste.

Nov 13, 2014
souphie in France

France trip report

It sure does. I want some seaweed soup now. Sigh.

Nov 09, 2014
souphie in France

France trip report

The correct phrase is "when in Rome, go to Ikea"

Nov 09, 2014
souphie in France

Le Cinq or Guy Savoy?

He went for the good stuff instead. Those Devialets are everywhere indeed, alas.

Nov 07, 2014
souphie in France

Alex Croquet's Kouign Amann

By the way, Bruno Verjus has some of his meat at Table.

You know, while we're totally off topic...

Nov 07, 2014
souphie in France

Restaurants for Christmas Eve in Paris

Get oysters and foie gras in your hotel room.

Nov 05, 2014
souphie in France

Le Cinq or Guy Savoy?

He doesn't unfortunately. He has an ICOS system (glad you asked!). It's in the private dining room across the street.

Nov 05, 2014
souphie in France

Alex Croquet's Kouign Amann

Truth be told, Croquet's is probably better as anything I've had in Bretagne (and believe me, I spent time there and tasted KA any chance I got).

Nov 05, 2014
souphie in France
1

Alex Croquet's Kouign Amann

The night I had the KA at Gradlon, it felt old and re-heated. It h probably excellent as it came out of the oven, but it may have been the day before. I say that with regret as I am very fond of the entrepreneur-chef in question.

Nov 05, 2014
souphie in France