lesleyb's Profile
In Photos: Opening Night at José Andrés' Bazaar, or, The Tale of a 49-Course Dinner
Points taken. About that cod, I loved those fritters. I didn't find it oily or fishy at all, in fact as far as bacalao goes, i thought it was pretty mild. They were also light and fried to perfection. The sweet aioli on the side was a nice touch. And while Andres and his team are all about reinventing the classics, they don't need to reinvent everything. It was a delicious rendition. I liked the more traditional tapas on the menu (the jamon was amazing) anyway. Rojo's menu is supposed to be more "traditional," with the Blanca menu the "modern" interpretations. If anything, maybe he'll come up with an old and new way like they did with the tortilla patatas. Which, for the record, tasting the two side by side, I loved the tradtional version much more than the modern one with the potato foam in the martini glass. ...it also made a tasty leftover for breakfast the next day (with the homemade sausage that I liked).
Also re: Photos. Now, I blog but I don't (generally) take food shots documenting every dish on the table. But no one told me not to take pictures, and my camera was sitting on the table the entire time. I did take several photos that night because the food was just too gorgeous. On one hand, sure, it's cool to have someone post lovely food shots on their blog; on the other, we've all seen really BAD food shots, and no restaurant wants that, plus it doesn't help the consumer. Just strokes the bloggers ego (hey look ma! i'm a picture taker!). Also, I've been in rooms with the flashes going and it's just freaking annoying. So does the restaurant have the right to create their own rules? um, yeah. Damn straight they do. If a restaurant doesn't want you taking pictures, respect their wishes and move on. Just because you're a paying customer (even over $1000) doesn't mean you can do whatever you want. It's also a ridiculous reason to not go to a restaurant.
In Photos: Opening Night at José Andrés' Bazaar, or, The Tale of a 49-Course Dinner
Just to play devil's advocate here, "taking one for the team" is one thing, but why would anyone let one person's reaction to a first-night menu keep you from tasting/trying the same things or going at all? What if you liked bacalao, which kevin did not. Would you not try because he said the bacalao fritters weren't good because they had cod and not some other fish (when that's exactly what bacalao is = dried salted cod)? Do you have exactly the same palate as his? Do you know you that eat the same exact way he does? How about if the kitchen takes some of these early critiques and tweaks the dishes to make them better? What if some of these things he said were awful actually turn out to be stellar in a few weeks or months, the time it usually takes for any kitchen to get their bearings together? Wouldn't you be so disappointed if you didn't try the best things in the house because all you're remembering is his first review?
I think Kevin's review is very thorough and an interesting read, especially with the photos It's admirable he wanted to try everything on the menu, but at some point it was too much, so (like tasting too many wines in one day), could that mar his views? I was there last night too and tried some of the same dishes he did; some he didn't like and I did. Even at my table, some dishes I liked (the fideo paella) and my dining guest did not (at least as much as I did). We had some scallops that had far too much salt on them rendering them inedible, although they were cooked perfectly and the accompanying sauce was delicious. We loved the spinach, a perfect lingering balance of salty and sweet, with pine nuttiness. Our pork cheeks were a little overcooked, dry. I thought the sausage with white beans was delicious, the meat juicy and fatty at once. And of course the liquid olives taste like olives but the hype is that THEY AREN'T. To those who won't go or who won't order the same dishes that Kevin did, isn't there something to be said for thinking for yourself, testing the waters, finding out what you do and don't like? There's a lot to that menu, there are a lot of items, and my guess is they will in fact see what works and what doesn't. I can't wait to go back, especially when Jose Andres is in the house. He wasn't last night, but he will be. Just sayin....
Bad and Worse!
Oh, yes. I went to RockSugar because I was at the mall, thought I'd give it a chance since the opening. I only got a couple dishes, but both were overly sauced, salty or sweet, and pretty oily. Plus, the drinks are too too sweet. Place was packed though.
Spaghetti and Meatballs?
C&O in Venice, though it's more rowdy and fun than romantic. Not sure about taking you're own wine. There's a place in Playa del Rey..Salerno, maybe? Haven't been, but it's Italian-American. Back in Hollywood, I think Jones has good spag/meatballs, as does Delancey.
French Restaurant in Hollywood?
I don't consider Citrus "classic bistro" food by any stretch, plus it's INCREDIBLY expensive. Not the right place for two unemployed people. "Young and trendy"...when is the last time you went? Last time I went we were one of four tables in the place, and no one was under 30.
Where do the Chefs Go?
That was a total sham article. The places "selected" were't really Tom's choices. They went to places like Bond St and S Bar (both of which the group hated), but they did go to Ruen Pair, which everyone loved. Here's a link to some coverage on Eater LA
http://la.eater.com/archives/2008/06/06/colicchios_club.php
But I also know from talking to some of the people involved with that article...totally choreographed.
Years and years ago when I was at LA.com, I had a feature/list of where some of LA's top toques went. It's very old, but some shout outs to Sushi Gen, Greenblatt's, etc.
http://www.la.com/dining/Where_the_Chefs_Go.html
(Here's the radio version from "Good Food" http://www.kcrw.com/etc/programs/gf/gf050917big_easy_post-katrin)
Cafe W AS, isn't: Review w/pics
Hi, lesley here. To be fair, those pics are courtesy the restaurant. We couldn't get our photog in, so they are PR shots. While it's nice to see details of the space, it really is something to be sitting in there, low lit, candles, the rotating piano---which isn't fast, as I had imagined in my mind. More like you look at him once, back to your friends, look again and now he's at a slightly different angle, keep doing that and all of a sudden his back (or face) is facing you.
We don't do food "assessments" in the Eater Inside column, so let me talk about our brief experience from the other night. Our burger was good, the fries OK (would've liked them a bit more crispy.) We snacked on the the gougeres (decent), the bacon wrapped dates (tasty), and the burrata bites (not my fave). The latter: Literally two small bites, a tiny bit of burrata on a tiny little crostini with something red, but I can't remember if it was tomato or pepper. Truth, not worth the $3. Too small to even taste anything, and you only got two. The burger was actually cooked perfectly, it has prosciutto, brie and a quail egg on it. To be extremely critical, the egg is probably unnecessary because it's too small to get a bite of it on the whole burger. The brie basically melted away, but the prosciutto was a nice touch. We liked it. Does it trump other burgers in town? Not really. Oh, we also shared a beet salad. Nice, big pieces of beets, lightly dressed greens, not enough goat cheese. Again, just ok.
Does Ivan Kane know food? Let's say this, he knew enough to hire a chef to help create the menu (Tim Goodell), and he hired a chef to oversee things (forget his name, came from Vegas). I think my assessment here and yours above are fair, especially in the first week and a half of business. People are slamming this place hard on Eater, fine. But for drinks, some music, some snacks, you could do so much worse! It's different, kind of cool inside in a dramatic way. Maybe the food will get better, but I know they're open to the criticsm right now (so they said).
Ingredients Sale
Reader just tipped off Eater LA that the Ingredients going out of biz sale supposed to happen today (6/21) was canceled.
http://la.eater.com/archives/2008/06/21/ingredients_sale_canceled.php
Westside Watering Hole With Good Food
Fraiche in CC has a meatball sub on the bar menu (or did). Good wines, cocktails and nice bar menu. Akasha also has a nice bar and some great onion rings. Beechwood in Venice is another great option
Anyone know anything about Animal?
Wait, one more thing (damn edit button!!!!). Three of us thought we ordered too much (three apps, three ents) but ended up clearing every plate, practically licking the plates clean. There's something to be said for that. Bill with some wines came to about $55 per person before tax and tip.
Anyone know anything about Animal?
I edited and lost the second half of that. While we get what these guys are going for, "animal," the whole branzino---cooked perfectly, I might add---comes out whole and for the uninitiated, deboning could get annoying. But with the pancetta vinaigrette, lovely flavors. I cook branzino at home so I know how to get the meat off the bone in one fell swoop; it's actually really, really easy. But just saying. Also, the fruit bowl for dessert was a bunch of these delicious little mulberries and a whole nectarine. Nice, fresh, just from the market. We had to ask for a knive to cut the nectarine, which if you know fresh perfect nectarines, don't really come off the pit that easily. Very juicy, though.
Anyone know anything about Animal?
Been twice now. Here's a picture and a preview
http://la.eater.com/archives/2008/06/09/eater_sneak_peek_animal_opens_wednesday.php
Went again last night and it was running quite smoothly. Not packed for the second night. It's a very raw space, unadorned. loud. Food was extremely flavorful---hits at the table last night were the soft shell crab (again, a winner), the ribs (ditto) and the fried quail with grits. Like the best little baby chickens you'll ever had. We thought everything had lots of flavor. Staff was on point. Nice little wine list, although the reds come out too cold but they're working on that. Saw Jonathan Gold and his wife checking it out, too. Can't wait to go back.
Down & Dirty Foodies go Hipster?
I've had luck getting into both Mozzas on extremely short notice, plus the bars at the Osteria are great options for walk-ins. Just don't go prime time.
Post Top Chef success
The rumor was that Ilan was planning some sort of high-end mobile food cart in Los Angeles, but there's no proof of it yet. Not sure what the timeline is.
Charlie Palmer's at Bloomingdales
here are some pictures from opening night
http://la.eater.com/archives/2008/06/02/eater_inside_special_oc_edition_charlie_palmer.php
Of the food we tried--and it was a lot--I most liked the charcuterie plate (all made in house), the tortellini ap was great, as was the pork belly. Friends each had a steak--the filet with blue cheese crust and NY strip were both superb. I liked my lamb, cooked beautifully nicely seasoned, but loved the tiny pile of braised lamb shoulder on the plate more. Sides: our potatoes gratin were not cooked all the way through, but flavor was good; creamed spinach delightful as was the asparagus. But the farro risotto with morels OH so good, should be an entree. Also liked the crimini with oxtail ragout. The wines were killer, desserts fantastic just a bit more deconstructed for my taste. We had one server that was kind of flaky in that firs-night way, but earnest. The lounge menu looks absolutely superb, and of the two cocktails I tasted, both were well-balanced and very very sippable, especially the cosmo one my friend had which sounded sweet but spot on. All in all, I wish it was in LA.
New Restaurant Coming to SFV - Ava or something like that?
Per Eater, possibly Eva from Mark Gold?
http://la.eater.com/archives/2008/03/19/eaterwire_chef_shuffle_edition_joes_inn_of_the_seventh_ray_luxe_rodeo_drive.php
GOAT closes. Becomes another Cobras Y Matadors
On the plus side, Michael Ruiz, who just closed Ingredients in Montrose (had Bistro Verdu before that) is taking over all the menus at Cobras. Should be a great improvement.
http://la.eater.com/archives/2008/05/30/anisetticipation_keeping_the_wolves_at_bay.php
Scoop: Father's Office 2 now Open
The phone message says 5pm on weeknights, 2pm Fri-Sun. Not sure when that's all "official" though. here's more recap from last night.
http://la.eater.com/archives/2008/04/22/eater_inside_fathers_office_20_debut.php
Father's Office ~ Culver City, CA
40 people lined up when they finally opened the door at 6pm. All tables full and a line outside by 7:15. Service did pretty well, considering. The burger was still tasty, the beers cold, the wine tap system pretty nifty. I have more pics and details on Eater LA. Should start opening at 5pm during the week, noon on weekends, although not sure when that will officially start.
http://la.eater.com/archives/2008/04/22/eater_inside_fathers_office_20_debut.php
Old Bay seasoning in Los Angeles - where to buy?
Most Whole Foods carries it. Look for or ask for it around the seafood counter.
Pinkberry Finally "Frozen Yogurt"
Three years after Pinkberry got its swirly grip on Los Angeles (and now the country), it's officially certified as "yogurt" from the National Yogurt Association.
http://la.eater.com/archives/2008/04/17/it_only_took_three_years_pinkberry_finally_frozen_yogurt.php
Which begs the question: Just what WAS it before?
Besso: Eva Longoria's New Tex-Mex Restaurant. Any Comments?
Did a half-review, more observation on Eater LA
http://la.eater.com/archives/2008/04/07/theres_evas_beso_and_everyone_elses_beso.php
First of all, no idea where everyone gets Tex-Mex. Was it People? Us Weekly? The PR pushing to those magazines has no idea what they're doing, that's for sure. There's NOTHING, I repeat, nothing tex-mex or barely even Mexican at the place. The food we found tolerable ended up being direct rip-offs from Todd English's other restaurants (skirt steak tacos, artichoke guacamole, steak with grilled romain). The paying public shouldn't be subjected to other dishes---flavorless mushy "drunken shrimp" with tequila after burn; horrible paella, if you can call it that, was more like chicken bones, overcooked shellfish and rice swimming in dishwater broth; chocolate souffle doused in ice cream (what?) and chocolate sauce (WHAT?). The churros were OK for dessert, but the sauces tasted like Red Hots melted in chocolate and Brach's caramels melted and then coagulated again. English was not in the house.
Needs a LOT of work. And the airport hangar is pretty spot on.
Chocolate Freak Tour
The Love Nuts at Compartes in Brentwood are dang good. Leonidas is a chain; good chocolates, but you can get in other places. Madam Chocolat has wonderful chocolates. And the hot chocolate at City Bakery, although a NY import, is damn good too.
Jian Korean BBQ
As a matter of fact, yes
http://la.eater.com/archives/2008/02/21/jian_korean_bbq_loves_robots.php
The sign on the door said they will open in March.
Alain Girard's new restaurant
Name is Anisette, "maybe" by end of Feb
http://la.eater.com/archives/2008/01/07/breaking_alain_girauds_brasserie_is_named.php
New Pork City
First, Bin 8945 is no longer doing the pig sunday thing. Second, I did a report on some chefs around town buying whole acorn-fed pigs from a farm in Iowa. La Quercia, known for its domestic proscuitto. I haven't checked in to see what the chefs did with their pork, or if their still doing, but it might be worth checking out.
http://la.eater.com/archives/2007/12/20/eater_food_trends_the_pig_arrives_in_la.php
Vincent Gruppuso, "Mr. Kozy Shack", RIP
man...I love Kozy Shack chocolate pudding...RIP Vincent. RIP.
LA weeklies/food sections
In addition to LA Times and The Guide, and LA Weekly, If it's "scene" you really want, follow the blogs.
Eater LA
www.eaterla.com
This is mine, and it's a good amount of aggregating from most of the LA area blogs and papers, plus general dining news, gossip, openings, closings, etc.
Eating L.A.
www.eatingla.blogspot.com
Pat (who also responded to this post) does a great job with ethnic eateries, especially on the east side of town (Silver Lake, Los Feliz, etc.)
LA foodblogging
la.foodblogging.com
Different people, all sorts of restaurants, pretty straightforward reviews of new and not new spots
LAist
www.laist.com
Multi-authored, many topics, but the food section keeps tabs on restaurants an dining
Metromix, another Tribune product, skews younger, but stays on top of trends and openings
losangeles.metromix.com
There are a lot of neighborhood rags and blogs, but decent for scanning. Unfortunately, LA Magazine isn't fully online yet, and the Daily News, which mostly covers the Valley, isn't easy to follow, but they are there. Patric Kuh in LA Mag is a solid reviewer, as is Brad Johnson at Angeleno magazine (also not online). LA has a completely different food media market than in New York.
