Just wanted to add that one person's "obsessive planning' is another person's pleasure. I for one derive great joy in planning and plotting my Paris meals...it's enjoyable to me, and in some ways therapeutic. I love reading all the blogs and CH even when I don't have a trip in the works and when I do I find that the planning is a big part of the fun and anticipation, for me...so the moral of this story is that to each his of her own. I agree that you can eat well in Paris, but you can also eat poorly. Ah, but when it all comes together, the food and the celebration that Parnassien described, well that is what we're all after, isn't it? No matter how we got there...

I used to leave a lot more to chance when I first started going to Paris and while we did have some good luck we also some really bad. And when you only have 6 nights in a city like Paris, one bad meal is a true bummer. I do agree that it's fun to stroll and look at cartes and I've discovered some gems, but I still plan at lease one meal per day when I find myself lucky enough to be in Paris.
I'm glad that you found Robert and Louise and enjoyed it with the locals, but it is pretty well known in the English speaking guides including Zagat, Lonely Planet, Trip Advisor, etc...not that it makes it unworthy, just pointing out that it isn't unknown.

I agree with Parigi (I would disagree if I could but I can't) - I think that Paris is unique in that there are SO many restaurants, so for someone who really cares about food who is there for just a week, it would be a damn shame to have a bad meal as a result of bad or no planning! The best advice I could give would be to research as many sources as possible (my list includes CH of coursse as well as JT's blog, Le Fooding, Pais By Mouth, Anthony Lobrano, etc) and I pick one meal, either lunch or dinner, from there. I always try to include a place I've never tried before as well as old favorites. That way, if we have a fabulous lunch at a CH fave. we feel free to "experiment" at an unknown bistro for dinner, and vice versa...

Hi Grovina,
We went for the 8 wine menu, of course! No, there was no option for the 6 Prestigious Grands Crus. We aren't professional wine experts by any means but we do feel that we know something about wine (mostly because we are pretty experienced at drinking it :) and we really liked their wines - In our eyes were great examples of the traditional light yet full burgundies that we love. So it might be worth it just for that. Plus, the setting is beautiful.

Hi Blue Ox,
We found ourselves in Volnay at lunch time this past October and stumbled upon Le Volnaysien by accident, We were pleasantly surprised. We had a lovely Volnay with the basic menu and thought that the food was very good,,,I think I had the chicken in epoisses (I could eat that every day) and as I recall we found it to be a great value for the cost. Plus the setting was lovely and the service was perfect. We were surrounded by locals who also seemed happy. I usually plan most meals but always leave some room for adventure so this was an even better find. I hope that helps, and that they still offer such a value...

We had the wine lunch at Comte Senard and I wouldn't say that the meal is gut busting filling. It was good, not earth shattering-best-food-ever-good, but good; we had the ubiquitous jambon persille followed by chicken epoisses, if I recall, It's lovely, a nice tour of the vineyard and a real education about the wines, which were excellent btw. We really enjoyed it and I would recommend it.

Can you do the lunch on the day you leave? That way you could do some tastings on the day you get there (maybe the half day tour), have lunch some place like Carnot or Part des Anges, go to Ma Cuisine for dinner (a must!), then do the wine lunch the next day....we didn't do any tours so I can't answer that part. We just wandered around the various villages and found places to taste )

I think you could do both Comte Sendard and Ma Cuisine if you had to, as long as you walk it off after. We took an hour long walk around Aloxe Corton after our lunch...we were ready to go at it by the evening! :)

Great reports J Jessica! I've enjoyed reading your posts.

I just wanted to suggest that people might want to consider lunching at Dan Les Landes. We've been several times for lunch and had wonderful food and good service that wasn't rushed. AND you can walk off all that food...

Pirouette was one of our favorite finds last October. Great modern space, relaxed and near perfect service, really good food and a value for the price, which to me always earns extra points. I think it would be a good counter to the more traditional and as Mr JT said classic Chez Josephine. My mom had an awesome fish dish there so you don't have to worry about the no red meat thing.

I just wanted to say that when we took out now twenty-something brood to Paris (when they were 13, 14 and 17) their favorite restaurant by far was Chez Denise, for the same reasons you mentioned. So thanks for the wonderful memories, and for writing such a great report. One of these trips I will make it to Le Cinq!

me too...it was memorable (and of course we are talking about the food oh dear moderators!! )

oh my

Agreed, it was delightful.

We rented an apartment so I am of no help for the b&b. I'd try to stay close to the city center, but Beaune is small and walkable so anywhere is ok really. Have fun planning and report back with your choices!

Hi Jessica,
The expert posters have given you some great advice on specific places. I just wanted to chime in to say that on various trips in the past I've spent a week in Burgundy, 4 days in Lyon and a week in the Luberon and I have to agree with others, trying to fit in all 3 would be way too much. If it were my trip: OK you would have already spent a week in Paris so I'd take Boredough's recomends for the Luberon for sure (stayed in Lourmarin and agree totally with Boredough's post) and I'd spend the other portion of time in Beaune. Both places will give you a different feel from Paris, and if you're like us and like to stay somewhere with some dining options that are available without driving, Beaune is the choice. (I loved Ma Cuisine, La Ruchotte for Sun lunch, Part des Anges, Le Gourmandin (On the touristy square but good and undervalued here), Apres du Clocher in Pommard, Volnaysein in Volnay and the wine lunch at Table Comte Senard. (Check out some of the Beaune posts for other tips). Save Lyon for another trip. Keep us posted!

Yes, we meant to go there as we had it on our list but never made it...please check it out for me!

Hi Daisy,
We were in Beaune last Oct. Ma Cuisine is a must. I studied the France Chow board and found recs for Le Gourmandin and the wine bar La Part des Anges, which we can recommend as well,
We also liked Aupres du Clocher in Pommard & Le Cellier Volnaysien in Volnay (the former had an epoisses dessert and the latter had chicken in epoisses...we had so much epoisses. I am not complaining though, I could eat it every day :). We had lunch Aupres du Clocher and Volnaysein, so those nights we had a lighter dinner and especially enjoyed our pizza (which I usually never get in France) at Tavola Calda. We had a salad at Le Carnot which was also good.
I'll try to think of where we had a stellar cheese course and let you know. Enjoy Beaune!

I'd just like to add a story about CLJ: We were there once and the women at the table next to us asked to take the remainder of the rice pudding home. They had barely touched it. Mario kindly gave them a container, which they filled to the brim with the pudding and all the toppings, crowing about how awesome it would be for breakfast.
The moral of the story? I would NEVER do that, but asking discreetly to take home the foie gras is a different story. And as my tale demonstrates, they are most accommodating, even to requests that I consider a bit over the top...

I'd start here:
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/826822

Thanks John! This is a very helpful list.

Are you staying in an apartment? My first NYE in Paris was spent with our 3 teens and after looking at the high-priced menus we decided to order seafood from the market which we cooked and ate in our apartment...something I did the other 2 NYE's I spent in Paris as well, even without the kids! For the last one we didn't really "cook" anything but bought a roast chicken and potatoes and cheese and bread of course a fabulous dessert, and lots of champagne, which you can afford if you eat in...on second thought I advise that route even if you are in a hotel!

Thanks, yes I realized that I changed gears a bit mid-post...after looking over the menus I decided to be supermom and please my daughter by going for the Japanese end of the spectrum. Concert de Cuisine is a bit pricey but not when compared to Sola or Toyo or Kei
Thanks Pairigi, Kiku looks really good.

Thank you all! I know that there have been a wave of new places so this really gives me some direction. I really like Toyo and Sola...but they might be a bit over the budget this time (maybe I'll save that for when the Mr. comes along). But some of the others are perfect...after careful consideration I think I'm leaning towards being a nice mom and going for the more Japanese end of the spectrum - Concert de Cuisine and Saké Bar look really good, as does La Table d'Aki, although it was just written up in the NYT...hmmm

Anyway, thanks again, I'm sure she will be thrilled with my choice! :)

Hello again Paris hounds,
I'm back to Paris in January, this time with my 21 year old daughter in tow for part of the trip. She's been to Paris once (when she was 13) and is looking forward to accompanying me to my favorite Parisian haunts. She loves French food and is an adventurous eater so I know she'll be happy with my choices..but, she is also a big fan of all things Japanese, especially Japanese food. I really don't want to go the sushi route when I'm in Paris (even though it would make HER very happy) but, since this trip is also a birthday gift to her, I was hoping that you could suggest a place that had the best of both worlds: French food for me with a Japanese flair for her. I'm on somewhat of a budget so somewhere like Kei is a bit out of my budget. Thanks in advance!

Yes, I never base my decision on where to stay based on restaurants (because the metro is so easy and user friendly) but more on the other aspects described very well by others here. I've stayed in many different neighborhoods over the years and now have seemed to settled on the 10th/11th, mainly because I just like the vibe. To my mind, anywhere from the 10th, 11th or Belleville/Menilmontant would be the most like the Lower East side or East Village...I would say that the 7th is more like the Upper East side (again, in terms of neighborhood feel, not food).

We took our 3 teens to Paris 5 years ago, when our sons were 15 and 17. Our sons sound like yours - adventurous eaters with big appetites. I'm not familiar with some of the places on your list, but overall I'd say it looks good. One addition I'd definitely suggest would be Chez Denise (La Tour de Montlhéry). It was our sons' favorite...huge portions of very good traditional bistro fare in a great old school Parisian atmosphere. I know of at least one other Hound who might concur...

Thanks, I am definitely willing to give the wine bar a try, just because I used to be SO in love...:) It should be an interesting comparison. Will report back in late January.

Maybe it's a lunch vs. dinner thing - were you planning on dinner? Maybe lunch is better? I wish I had loved it as much as I did the 2 previous times I ate there - I just felt let down because I had such high expectations based on my previous visits, although as you mention I don't think I was the only one who thought it was better before the change.
I would love to hear what hounds think of the wine bar.

Oh my Laidback, that is hilarious! The Mr. is laughing,, and says that since he'd never had lark, for all he knows it actually tastes just like veal (the mushroom/meat sauce he got) Very clever, Pirouette! Too funny, I bet were weren't the only ones who were fooled.
John, looking forward to your review of Vivant Cave. I know that you had a better experience than we did at the revised mothership. Oh well, we'll be sure to try some of the others next time. Thanks for doing the recon for us. :)

I want to thank the Paris Chowhound Team yet again. We had a fabulous 5-day trip and ate some fabulous food, ending with a fitting feast! Internet connection issues, jet lag and work obligations prevented me from writing while things were still fresh in my ageing mind, but here are the highlights of the Paris portion of our trip (I’ll get to Burgundy next, hopefully before I forget everything).

Vivant
Oh, Vivant. My former newbie fave and the highlight of our trip last Jan. We had asked our kind friend to make us the reservations, which she did, and she even confirmed after some hassle. So, we were a bit put off by the not so welcoming greeting we received from the server, who seemed a bit put out most of the evening, insisting on speaking English to us despite my husband’s fluent (and as many people have commented, well-accented) French, among other things. OK, no big deal if the food’s good - I can tolerate many things if I’m happily eating wonderful food. (And the server must have realized that she hadn’t been real accommodating as she apologized after our meal, explaining that it was her partner’s first night serving. He, on the other hand, was charming!) As for said food, although our plats were really pretty darn good, this proved to be the most disappointing meal of the trip. Mr. Sister started with his favorite boudin noir…he LOVED, no adored, their boudin noir last Jan. But this version came encased in a barely cooked green pepper, whose flavor overpowered the boudin noir. I had the escargots avec oeuf…it was interesting but not earth shattering. We then had a fish dish that I can’t really remember; again it was good but not great. The only part of our meal that stood up to our previous experience was our main dish of “burned” quail, which was perfectly cooked and flavorful. Mr. had the tartiflette de pignons for dessert and I had a chocolate dessert, both were meh. We decided to go with the wine pairings, and while I thought the bio wines were ok, my husband found them, in his words “tangily acidic, suggesting unwanted fermentation in the bottle” At 198e I don’t think that our experience at Vivant was worth it…the prices have risen beyond the quality in our view. Will we go back? Sad to say probably not. Whaaaa.

Dans Les Landes
We headed here for lunch on our first day. We had no plans and no reservations and my husband called and they said come on over. They are open from lunch through dinner so they would be a good bet if you find your self hungry in the off hours. We were sorry we didn’t have a crowd, because we wanted every item on the menu. We settled on the salade de sucrines (oh my! Those white anchovies!) which I didn’t find overdressed at all, a sardine rillete with pimento and the duck hearts, which weren’t my most fave thing ever but which my husband LOVED. We had a pichet of both red and white Irouleguy and split the milassou, which was a deep fried ball of the most heavenly sweet creamy delicious custard, served with a compote of autumn fruits. Oh my, one of my most favorite desserts ever! All for some crazy 60e or something like that. We were there on a Tuesday (I read here that the weekend may not be as good as mid-week). Will I go back? Yes, definitely, next time with friends. You know who you are.

Table d’Eugene
This place had been on my list for-ev-er, and we finally made it up over the hill. I am glad we did, as it was a really nice meal in a lovely space. I am kicking myself for not taking notes because between the two of us we just can’t remember our entrees, which is a shame because it’s not because they were unforgettable. Next time I will try to jot something down! I do remember the plats, thankfully: He had the duck, perfectly rosé, and I had a lovely turbot in a mushroom sauce, (terre et mer the server said) so we shared a bottle of red Chassagne Montrachet that paired nicely with both. We split the croustillant de chocolate for dessert and it was a perfect end to a lovely meal (despite my forgetting the entrees). Will we go back? I predict that we will make it back at some point.

Pirouette
Oh My. Many thanks to you John Talbott, this place is a winner/keeper. Everything was just picture perfect. We went for lunch, and the 15e menu looked amazing and sure has to be the steal of the century. We opted for the 36e menu as we were planning on a light dinner before heading to see the Headhunters (of Herbie Hancock fame) that night. I started with the pumpkin gnocchi and my husband had what was the most talked about dish of the trip: Sausage made from allouette, the deplumed bird from the song that all us little American children learned to sing (that and Frere Jaques). It was delicate and tender – just damn good he says. Then I had my first and only lamb dish of the trip: Canon d’agneau with a buttery pea puree and roasted carrots. Sublime. He the Iberica “pluma”, which we later discovered is the top part of the neck. Who knew? He was in heaven. My dessert of fresh figs with house made ice cream was to die for, while the Mr. went for the Ossauriaty, which at Pirouette comes as a cheesy-cheesecake creamy sour- sweet treat, topped with fresh black cherries. The service was pitch perfect too, and I enjoyed watching the rain through the large windows. Will we go back? I sure hope so!!! Mr. Sister wanted to sit there til dinner and do it again, it was that good.

Huiterie Regis
I swore that I would never return after our experience last January, when I witnesses the owner treat some fellow tourists rather shabbily, But, the oysters were delicious, and one afternoon we were jonesing for some in the worst way. Since we figured it was too late to go to Pleine Mer, The Mr. Sister talked me into trying HR again. This time we had a much better experience. They only serve oysters from Marenne d’Oleron. The oysters, especially the speciale de clairs, were even more delicious than before, and the crevette rose were outstanding as well. Actually, the Mr. says that they were the best oysters he’s ever had, and we live near the Chesapeake Bay - believe me, he knows a thing or 2 about oysters. There was a female server who spoke several languages and who was nice to everyone. Perhaps this is a lesson to us all that sometimes it’s worth giving a place a second chance (although on the other hand, there are so many restaurants in Paris that I’m not sure that this applies across the board!). Will we go back? Likely, if we find ourselves needing an oyster fix and the timing is right.

Repaire de Cartouche
My husband LOVES game (yes I use the caps when talking about things the Mr. Sister LOVES) so we thought we’d try the standard bearer RdC. We’ve been to Café Cartouche several times and had very nice experiences there so we thought we’d give the original a shot. We’ve also been to A La Biche Au Bois several times and wanted to try a new place for game. All that said, we liked our meal, but agreed that the atmosphere was just a bit stuffy for our tastes. The food was quite good: I started with a mushroom soup and husband had the terrine de cerf. Both very basic but good. The game lover had the lievre and I had a pork and lentil dish, which again were very well-done versions of rustic bistro cooking. We shared a dessert of chocolate stuffed figs that were ok, a bit too much chocolate that overpowered the fresh figs. Will we go back? Probably not. I tend to agree with a respected Hound who wrote that prefer the café to the mothership. And I thought that A La Biche au Bois was a better value and Mr. reflected that he preferred their menu.

Chez L’Ami Jean
I admit it, I am a fan, and we usually have one meal here every trip. As I mentioned on another thread, we just like the whole CLJ deal: the food, the atmosphere, the chaos…it fits us. We have obviously enjoyed our meals enough to want to come back, but have had some misses mixed in with the hits over the years This time? Not one miss. We were fortunate to have been able to share in the bounty with a couple of other Hounds, at the back table that affords one a great view of Jego in all his glory (complete with the groping seat), which added to the atmosphere. But the food is what counts and from beginning to end we were treated with the chefs magic. We started off with the shared tub of pate, the traditional pate de compagne and a wonderful sanglier…mmm. Then it started: the soup with the crunchy bits, this time a silky creamy mushroom (I think cep, others can correct). Then came a perfectly barely cooked egg sitting atop a piece of quail, with some squid thrown in for good measure. Then came the infamous foie gras. I can not do this foie gras justice in my description so I will defer to my comrade’s poetry:
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/874445

The best foie gras dish I’ve ever had the pleasure of tasting…

Then came the biggest langoustines I have ever seen. Cooked PERFECTLY and served naked. No sauce needed. And then came the “main” a perfectly (under) cooked pigeon, head and foot attached, sitting atop ris de veau, which were so smooth and delicious. Just perfect. As were the creamy side of potatoes…I could eat them all day long and the comment was made that they just keep getting better. And oh my, the fruit that followed. Perfectly ripe and plump berries...where did they come from? Stuffed, we still managed some spoonfuls of the rice pudding. Sigh. Sigh. With several bottles of fizzy water and several bottles of red Irouleguy . Perfect. Feast. Period. We’ll go back, we have to…

Whew! Thanks as always Paris hounds!! Til next time…

Jet-lagged hound checking in to say that I too was fortunate to have had a seat at the above-mentioned hound table. Before I go on I want to come clean to say that yes, I am part of the Chez L'Ami Jean CH fanclub, but only because I have enjoyed the half-dozen meals I have had at CLJ over the course of the past 6 years or so. I enjoy the hustle bustle, I like the casual, relaxed atmosphere, and the noise, and the cramped tables and the shared pate and the big bowl of that wonderful rice pudding. It's just the kind of place I love.

But, that said, I can be critical. There was one meal a few years ago that was good but had some flaws and made me wonder if I should keep returning. And this trip I was disappointed by one of my other faves and I won't go back (review to follow when I am a little more rested).

All that to codify my following response to the OP's post. I truly can't imagine that any food lovin hound would not think that the foie gras dish that Parigi so eloquently described above was anything but heaven on a plate. It. was. that. good. Sigh-invoking magically good. The best foie gras dish I have ever tasted (and I am glad I don't live in CA because I eat foie gras whenever it''s on the menu).

But, ok, to those who would point out that we all have different tastes and that I'm being too hard on the op, point taken. But, if I were to have been gifted a tasting of something as special as that foie gras,and I didn't like it, well, I think I might just have thanked the hounds and the chef and moved on. It's like I would never announce to the world that I really hated that blouse that my mother-in-law gave me. But that's just me. Oh, and Parigi, girl I would fight you for that tasty morsel (I'll let you tackle Mario though). Just sayin...

I promise to report back on that meal and the others that we enjoyed in Paris and Burgundy because I have lots of people to thank (Parigi, LaTulipe, Mangeur, John Talbott, Chef June and others, I'm talking about you.) I just wanted to defend the foie, as it was worthy of high praise...