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Restaurants in Venice, Rome and Florence with two teenagers

Venice -- the Birreria San Polo, in the back of the Campo San Polo, is always filled with teenagers after school events or sports, and is frequented by neighborhood families. The food is reasonable in price and surprisingly good (they feature home-made pasta in many of the primi). There's a great variety of pizza on the menu for even the least adventurous palate, and adults will find interesting things as well. Unfortunately, it's right up against the outdoor cinema in the campo, which is just starting up and will run until the beginning of September, so it may be mobbed.

Jul 23, 2009
mistra in Italy

Venice chichetti reccs?

Pronto Pesce now has a sign in its window -- "Featured on Anthony Bourdain's television show 'No Reservarions.'" I haven't gone in.

Jul 23, 2009
mistra in Italy

Venice chichetti reccs?

Al Portego in S. Marina is a relatively new bacaro and quite good and reasonable. There is a wine bar with lots of cicchetti, a small dining room for pasta and a few main courses, and a couple of tables outside. The only problem is that it is mobbed by students when the University is in session, but that's not a problem now. The easiest way to find it is to go to the Campo San Lio and take the bridge on the calle that goes along the Olandese Volante bar towards S. Marina; Al Portego is right at the dead end.

Jul 17, 2009
mistra in Italy

The Ideal First-Night Restaurant in Venice

Over the course of about a dozen trips to Venice over the past 25 years, my first meal has usually been at da Ignazio, towards the Grand Canal from the Frari. It serves as a reminder of what is best about Venetian cooking: fresh seafood prepared simply and with care. There are seasonal specials (watch for the lasagna with wild nettles (ortiche) in the fall), but the menu generally comprises the traditional standbys of Venetian cuisine. The same cooks and servers have been there since I started going. I prefer it for lunch, when the clientele includes local businesspeople and scholars working at the archives at the Frari (of which I am one). It's not cheap (figure on about E50 a head), but worth it and constitutes a baseline from which to judge more trendy places.

Jul 15, 2009
mistra in Italy