c

Crumbs's Profile

Title Last Reply

Two Weeks in Pays d'Auge

You would not be far from Pont-Audemer, a nice destination for a day trip, a town with canals running through it and lots of half-timbered buildings. There’s an excellent cheese and wine shop there. Market day is Friday and it’s worth going to. It’s not a big market, therefore not a mob scene, but it has everything you’d need for a very good dinner.

I see your list lacks a Tuesday market. Our favorite market in this area is on Tuesday morning at L’Aigle, about 45 min south of Lisieux. I won’t claim that L’Aigle is much of a town for tourists, but we love its market. It is claimed to be the 3rd largest in France. (I doubt this; I think they throw in the separate cattle market which is held elsewhere.) But the market is lively and has a lot to offer.

You’ll be in very pretty countryside. The mid-sized town of Bernay was my favorite discovery of our last trip.

about 4 hours ago
Crumbs in France

Normandy advice

Pieds dans l'eau can be a little hard to find. I'd suggest you check Google maps beforehand, starting by figuring out which exit to take off the N12.

The owners are not fluent in English, and once when some lost English guests phoned for directions, they wound up bringing the phone to our table. My husband gave them directions, and then we waited. All of us were relieved when they finally showed up!

Sep 05, 2014
Crumbs in France

Normandy advice

If you go by way of the N12, there are two really good places near Mortagne-au-Perche.

At Saint Langis-les-Mortagne is Pieds dans l'eau, which changed hands last year. We've had three excellent meals there since the change of proprietorship.

At nearby Le-pin-la-Garenne is La croix d'or, one of Michelin's Bib Gourmands. This is a long-time favorite of ours, with a menu that features local products. The hostess is warm and welcoming, and the dining room is a mildly updated version of a country inn's dining room.

If you were to go a more northerly route, in Gasny we really like L'auberge du prieure normande.

Each of these would require a reservation. You can check websites of La croix d'or and L'auberge, but Pieds dans l'eau doesn't have its own website.

If you're on the N12, avoid Verneuil-sur-Avre's Hotel du Saumon. Michelin was asleep at the switch on this one.

We have recommendations for Fougeres, Laval, and Mayenne, if for some reason you choose to drive that way.

Sep 04, 2014
Crumbs in France

Normandy advice

Can you be more specific about the route you plan to take?

Sep 04, 2014
Crumbs in France

Can you explain two words to me?

Thanks to Ptipois, paulj, and maximilien for the definition of cerneaux.

Its absence from my usual online dictionary led me to think "cerneaux" was more exotic than it is.

Jul 03, 2014
Crumbs in France

Can you explain two words to me?

Conviettes is it. Thank you!

Jul 02, 2014
Crumbs in France

Can you explain two words to me?

Now I think I might have misread my writing (how could that happen?) and it was cannette, which might work with the online translation "petite bouteille métallique" if you interpret it to mean a foil-wrapped roll.

As to "cerneaux," I'm using a photo of the menu, okay, a bad photo. "Le chocolat blanc et au lait en deux textures, et cerneaux de noix" is how it appeared.

This may be a case of menu-spelling, which creeps into the best menus.

A little googling shows me that "créneaux" is apparently a buzzword for "time slot or niche".

I also found this gem, which I hope someday will come in handy: "Lorsque l'écrou à créneaux s'est desserré sous l'effet des vibrations, la tringlerie est tombée; As the castellated nut loosened under vibrations, the control linkage fell out."

Possibly a nut fell into our dessert?

Jul 02, 2014
Crumbs in France

Can you explain two words to me?

We returned to a restaurant where a few years ago we had a delicious butter, and this time I came prepared to write down its name. The butter came in a tube, like salt-water taffy.

I wrote it down as "Les Caniettes de Charente-Poitou extra-fin demi sel AOC" but I can't find it online as "caniettes." Should I have written "canettes" and does that refer to its being a foil-wrapped roll?

The other term I need help with is "cerneaux" from a restaurant menu. Could it possibly be creneaux? What would either of these words mean for a dessert? All I can tell you is it was a delicious dessert, somewhat of a highrise construction project, but I didn't notice crenellations.

Jul 02, 2014
Crumbs in France

Fete du Pain

We'll be in the Perche (Orne) at the start of the week, but from there we could be heading either north to gardens near Dieppe or a bit south of the Loire.

I Googled the Bugey fours banaux and I am flabbergasted. They built for the ages. I'm glad to see they are still in use.

Mar 26, 2014
Crumbs in France

Fete du Pain

The Fete du Pain is May 12-18 this year. Can anyone here tell me anything about it?

I've checked the national website for the departements where we'll be going and only a few events show up, so it doesn't seem to be widely observed. I'm hoping that more events might pop up closer to the time.

Mar 26, 2014
Crumbs in France

A wild ride around the countryside...need some suggestions on the sprint to CDG from Nice. We'd appreciate suggestions on any other aspects as well.

I'll look forward to hearing what you and your wife think about the Auberge du Prieure Normand. We liked it the one time we ate there.

Mar 06, 2014
Crumbs in France

Michelin restaurant for Saturday lunch?

Here's the Guardian's take on Pudlo's comments.

http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandsty...

Feb 20, 2014
Crumbs in France

Michelin restaurant for Saturday lunch?

Steve, that works for places that Chowhounds are able to cover in depth--Paris, mostly. Coverage of the rest of France is spotty.

When we visit France, most of our destinations turn out to be way off the beaten path. I assume it would do me no good to ask here about where to eat in places like Bernay, Souday, and Luneray.

If I lived and worked in Paris, by asking around I might find somebody whose Mamie had a weekend house in Souday and who therefore knows the good places to eat, if there are any.

For us, occasional visitors to France, Michelin fills a need that Chowhound France can't.

Feb 17, 2014
Crumbs in France

Michelin restaurant for Saturday lunch?

Uh, I just noticed s/he didn't say Paris, either.

Feb 17, 2014
Crumbs in France

Michelin restaurant for Saturday lunch?

The OP didn't ask for a star, just "a Michelin lunch spot."

Maybe the OP would be happy to hear about a Bib Gourmand in Paris that's open Saturdays.

I can't say anything about Paris, but Michelin's Bib Gourmands have satisfied us many times when we're in the middle of nowhere. We can usually find something within driving distance in Michelin.

This has turned into a discussion of whether a guidebook is trustworthy or not. One thing about sticking to one guidebook is that over time you can calibrate their tastes and yours. That's something my husband and I have learned to do with Michelin (we never bonded with Pudlo) but just can't do with Chowhound because this board is mostly about Paris and we don't go to Paris. We’re saving Paris for our old age, when Autoeurope won’t rent a car to us anymore.

Which reminds me of the ferme-auberge thread, so full of riches. I want to make a map of places listed on that thread.

Feb 17, 2014
Crumbs in France
2

Wood-fired bread, pizza, anything

Thank you both. I'm getting hits using the search terms on google and pages jaunes.

Feb 07, 2014
Crumbs in France

Wood-fired bread, pizza, anything

We usually think there's something extra about anything cooked in a woodburning oven. I made note of smeagol's suggestion of Le four a bois at Reims, where we probably won't go this next trip.

How would we find boulangeries, restaurants, or pizza places that use woodburning ovens as we go around France?

Is there a website? Does Michelin have a dark brown guidebook? Is there a pagesbrunes?

We have two old standbys for part of our trip, but we need some advice on ways of finding wood-based cooking when we go to new territory.

Suggestions of specific places are welcome, no matter where they are. Our upcoming trip is to Normandy, the Mayenne, the Sarthe, and maybe the Loire, but we'd be glad to have your suggestions for any area. There's always next time. Thank you.

Feb 06, 2014
Crumbs in France

favourite French supermarket products

Our favorite finds in French supermarkets are Chimay ale in the small size and Belgian chocolate bars. This may not be what you want to read on Chowhound France.

We also go from one chain to another, looking to see who now carries the savon de marseille bars that we like, that once were from Champion and then from Super U and now I think our latest are from Carrefour.

Sep 03, 2013
Crumbs in France

Mortagne-au-Perche, for Piggyinthe middle

I never thought I'd have the opportunity to post about Mortagne and the Perche, and now here are two people with an interest.

I hope Jake Dear will read this as well as piggy, because I want to ask if the Dears travel with a large dog. (If so, we may have met.)

In this area we have two favorite restaurants and a third with potential to become a favorite. (I should say that we’ve experienced only lunch at any of these places, because dinner starts too late for us--peasants, we are.)

Pieds dans l’eau was recommended to us our first day in the Perche and we’ve returned there many times. It’s downhill from Mortagne, at Saint Langis-les-Mortagne. You drive down a narrow road past a thatched cottage and there at the bottom, by a fishing lake, is a small stone building with tables outside. When you enter the simple room you can smell good cooking. The food is solidly satisfying and the menu changes frequently. It's always busy at lunch so a reservation is a good idea. They still don't have a website–probably don’t need it. The Office de Tourisme at Mortagne doesn't list it on their website, probably because the OT charges B&Bs and restaurants for a listing. I think it’s listed in Routard.

Another favorite, with slightly more refined (and richer) cooking, with a pretty dining room, is La croix d’or in Le Pin-la-Garenne. Good cooking, excellent service, and a very warm welcome. It was named a Bib Gourmand last year and well deserves it. Website is: http://lacroixdor.free.fr/. The patronne is always busy and smiling, and once the chef poked his head out of the kitchen and he looked happy too.

We only had one chance to eat at another new-last-year Bib Gourmand, le Relais St Louis in Belleme. We liked it a lot and planned to return but they were closed when we were hungry. http://www.relais-st-louis.com/fr/la-.... We look forward to going back.

We've been kept busy enough with these three restaurants, plus merguez at the l’Aigle market, that we’ve never tried le Tribunal nor Les trois J in Noce. That could change depending on what you report back here.

Another nice food experience is the Tuesday market at l’Aigle, the biggest market in the area. Mortagne’s market is Saturday and is worth a visit.

Mortagne has 5 boulangeries, not bad for a population of about 5000. If you get to Tourouvre, the best boulangerie in the area is there, La baguette d’or.

Please forgive me for running on. I could spend our entire 3 week trips to France never leaving the Perche. When we arrive we go right from the airport to lunch at La croix d’Or. I think about the Perche every day and am ready to go back at the drop of a hat. Thanks for giving me the opportunity to wallow in good memories.

Jun 18, 2013
Crumbs in France

Derailed -- and seeking lunch in Rennes, Laval, or le Mans, SVP

Another place near the city of Mayenne is La marjolaine at Moulay. This is a hotel-restaurant in a lovely setting, beautiful buildings, fine old trees, next to (but high above) the Mayenne river, and as I recall the lunch was pretty good but not great. However, the dining room was elegant and that plus the surroundings made it a special lunch for us. However, our old Michelin seems to suggest that it's closed Monday, which I can't confirm from their website.

Jun 16, 2013
Crumbs in France

Derailed -- and seeking lunch in Rennes, Laval, or le Mans, SVP

L'Edelweiss in Laval gave us a good and copious lunch, and it's open Monday.

Jun 16, 2013
Crumbs in France

Paris & Normandy in July - Itinerary Critique S.V.P.!

The Fougeres market did not seem all that great to us as foragers. If we could have cooked where we were staying, we would have found good things there, but not much appealed for lunch.

A very good lunch place in the old quarter of Fougeres is Ti Vabro, which features galettes. You'd probably be best reserving there; it's busy even at lunch.

We've been to Les Feuillantines, but only for lunch, and really liked our meals.

Jan 13, 2013
Crumbs in France

Cheese course etiquette

How many cheeses are you comfortable selecting? Does it depend on the restaurant?

I used to feel comfortable requesting three. One night we discussed it with an English couple at the neighboring table who weren’t sure either. We all kept an eye on the cheese tray as other tables were served. We saw one man order five cheeses. The Englishman turned to me and said, “You can order seven.”

I didn’t but now I’m wondering if I could get away with five. We usually go to restaurants that are generous with their servings, but I don’t want to look greedy. Greedy I may be, I just don’t want to look it.

Jul 04, 2012
Crumbs in France

Researching Boudin

About boudin noir in Paris I know nothing, but it's big in the Perche. Mortagne-au-Perche has an annual boudin festival, which takes place the third weekend in March. Boudin noir is on menus in the area and it's available at traiteurs in Mortagne.

I can't see it as a bar snack. When I think of a bar snack I think of finger food, and the versions I've had were soft and required a fork.

Mar 26, 2012
Crumbs in France

Some recommendations for eating outside of Paris, Champagne/Loire/Alsace

In Azay-le-Rideau is an unpretentious small restaurant, La Ridelloise. The cooking was good enough that we returned there on our next trip. It sounds like the anti-Michelin thing you're looking for. However, I don't know if they do lunch and their website doesn't say. Reservations recommended.

Diane de Meridor at Montsoreau (the town next to Candes) doesn't sound like what you're looking for--we found it through Michelin--but if you give up on no-fine-dining, it's well worth a visit. Reservations recommended.

Mar 12, 2012
Crumbs in France

Paris & France

It's always a little disappointing to me that this board is so Paris-centric, but I don't think splitting off a non-Paris board is going to be that helpful. I doubt that a narrowly focused board would be very active. Most people want Paris info, fewer people want Paris-plus, and probably the fewest people want only outside-of-Paris info. The Paris-only and Paris-plus people wouldn't be served at all by an exclusively outside-of-Paris board.

I think the solution is to get many more people commenting on their good food experiences wherever they took place. Labeling your post with the town or department is helpful.

Mar 12, 2012
Crumbs in Site Talk

A few days in the Loire Valley

Buzancais is quite a way south of Tours but we make the drive there to eat lunch at l'Hermitage. This is a peaceful hotel along the river and we've had some of our best lunches in their pretty dining room. The staff is warm and attentive. Even when the dining room is packed service is quick. We aim to go on the market day for Buzancais, when I think the dining room is a little busier. We like watching the other diners, but of course the food is the main draw.

Jan 25, 2012
Crumbs in France

day trip to Chartres

We had an enjoyable lunch at Les Feuillantines, at 4, rue du Bourg, in the old town. The place was small and quiet, very relaxing after being in crowds. I got dorade with brussels sprouts and rosemary and a shellfish sauce. My husband ate livers and gizzards for an entree, then rognons de veau. The dessert was excellent, chocolate quenelles with a sauce of caramel-fleur de sel and mango sorbet. Actually, that must be two desserts (I usually get to eat both our desserts). I can't remember what we paid, but Michelin shows it at 19 euros for lunch. After lunch we had a nice walk around looking at half-timbered houses in this area.

Jan 25, 2012
Crumbs in France

A non-touristy, small town food mecca...?

This is just the kind of place we're looking for in France but haven't found. A place quiet enough for us usually doesn't have much in the way of amenities, and both good food and quiet lodgings are important to us. So we stay in the country and drive somewhere different every day.

I would suggest that you look at the maps in the back of the Michelin rouge to see where there are a few Bib Gourmand restaurants in a region that appeals to you and find yourself a chambre d'hotes centered among them. You're probably aware that Saturday night lodgings get booked up way in advance, even in the country. Markets are important, so if you can, get an idea of where the good markets are and on what mornings. If you want to save money, the noon meal is cheaper and can be easier to book, but you usually need to book, and here is where speaking French comes in handy. (Calling for reservations once, my husband couldn't remember how to pronounce the letter "e" so he couldn't even spell our name in full.) Your B&B host may help with the phone call, or at least the vocabulary, and they can suggest good restaurants under Michelin's radar. They'll also know the best boulangeries-patisseries and markets.

Sorry I can't be more specific. I'll be following this thread with interest.

Jan 14, 2008
Crumbs in France

Harrisburg/Camp Hill recommendations

Across the river in New Cumberland, there's the Dingledein bakery on Bridge St. Opens early, serves lunch (or takeout) but not dinner. They make their own artistic, delicious pastries, wonderfully rich cakes, breads, cookies, and their own chocolates. You might also be able to buy Dingledein pastries at one of the hotels around Second & Market in Harrisburg, but I don't know if they'd be as fresh.

Dec 07, 2006
Crumbs in Pennsylvania