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Paris & Normandy in July - Itinerary Critique S.V.P.!

The Fougeres market did not seem all that great to us as foragers. If we could have cooked where we were staying, we would have found good things there, but not much appealed for lunch.

A very good lunch place in the old quarter of Fougeres is Ti Vabro, which features galettes. You'd probably be best reserving there; it's busy even at lunch.

We've been to Les Feuillantines, but only for lunch, and really liked our meals.

Jan 13, 2013
Crumbs in France

Cheese course etiquette

How many cheeses are you comfortable selecting? Does it depend on the restaurant?

I used to feel comfortable requesting three. One night we discussed it with an English couple at the neighboring table who weren’t sure either. We all kept an eye on the cheese tray as other tables were served. We saw one man order five cheeses. The Englishman turned to me and said, “You can order seven.”

I didn’t but now I’m wondering if I could get away with five. We usually go to restaurants that are generous with their servings, but I don’t want to look greedy. Greedy I may be, I just don’t want to look it.

Jul 04, 2012
Crumbs in France

Researching Boudin

About boudin noir in Paris I know nothing, but it's big in the Perche. Mortagne-au-Perche has an annual boudin festival, which takes place the third weekend in March. Boudin noir is on menus in the area and it's available at traiteurs in Mortagne.

I can't see it as a bar snack. When I think of a bar snack I think of finger food, and the versions I've had were soft and required a fork.

Mar 26, 2012
Crumbs in France

Some recommendations for eating outside of Paris, Champagne/Loire/Alsace

In Azay-le-Rideau is an unpretentious small restaurant, La Ridelloise. The cooking was good enough that we returned there on our next trip. It sounds like the anti-Michelin thing you're looking for. However, I don't know if they do lunch and their website doesn't say. Reservations recommended.

Diane de Meridor at Montsoreau (the town next to Candes) doesn't sound like what you're looking for--we found it through Michelin--but if you give up on no-fine-dining, it's well worth a visit. Reservations recommended.

Mar 12, 2012
Crumbs in France

Paris & France

It's always a little disappointing to me that this board is so Paris-centric, but I don't think splitting off a non-Paris board is going to be that helpful. I doubt that a narrowly focused board would be very active. Most people want Paris info, fewer people want Paris-plus, and probably the fewest people want only outside-of-Paris info. The Paris-only and Paris-plus people wouldn't be served at all by an exclusively outside-of-Paris board.

I think the solution is to get many more people commenting on their good food experiences wherever they took place. Labeling your post with the town or department is helpful.

Mar 12, 2012
Crumbs in Site Talk

A few days in the Loire Valley

Buzancais is quite a way south of Tours but we make the drive there to eat lunch at l'Hermitage. This is a peaceful hotel along the river and we've had some of our best lunches in their pretty dining room. The staff is warm and attentive. Even when the dining room is packed service is quick. We aim to go on the market day for Buzancais, when I think the dining room is a little busier. We like watching the other diners, but of course the food is the main draw.

Jan 25, 2012
Crumbs in France

day trip to Chartres

We had an enjoyable lunch at Les Feuillantines, at 4, rue du Bourg, in the old town. The place was small and quiet, very relaxing after being in crowds. I got dorade with brussels sprouts and rosemary and a shellfish sauce. My husband ate livers and gizzards for an entree, then rognons de veau. The dessert was excellent, chocolate quenelles with a sauce of caramel-fleur de sel and mango sorbet. Actually, that must be two desserts (I usually get to eat both our desserts). I can't remember what we paid, but Michelin shows it at 19 euros for lunch. After lunch we had a nice walk around looking at half-timbered houses in this area.

Jan 25, 2012
Crumbs in France

A non-touristy, small town food mecca...?

This is just the kind of place we're looking for in France but haven't found. A place quiet enough for us usually doesn't have much in the way of amenities, and both good food and quiet lodgings are important to us. So we stay in the country and drive somewhere different every day.

I would suggest that you look at the maps in the back of the Michelin rouge to see where there are a few Bib Gourmand restaurants in a region that appeals to you and find yourself a chambre d'hotes centered among them. You're probably aware that Saturday night lodgings get booked up way in advance, even in the country. Markets are important, so if you can, get an idea of where the good markets are and on what mornings. If you want to save money, the noon meal is cheaper and can be easier to book, but you usually need to book, and here is where speaking French comes in handy. (Calling for reservations once, my husband couldn't remember how to pronounce the letter "e" so he couldn't even spell our name in full.) Your B&B host may help with the phone call, or at least the vocabulary, and they can suggest good restaurants under Michelin's radar. They'll also know the best boulangeries-patisseries and markets.

Sorry I can't be more specific. I'll be following this thread with interest.

Jan 14, 2008
Crumbs in France

Harrisburg/Camp Hill recommendations

Across the river in New Cumberland, there's the Dingledein bakery on Bridge St. Opens early, serves lunch (or takeout) but not dinner. They make their own artistic, delicious pastries, wonderfully rich cakes, breads, cookies, and their own chocolates. You might also be able to buy Dingledein pastries at one of the hotels around Second & Market in Harrisburg, but I don't know if they'd be as fresh.

Dec 07, 2006
Crumbs in Pennsylvania

Pudlo France?

Does the Pudlo France guide cover small towns? Villages? We're thinking of the mostly rural parts of the Loire and Indre valleys.
Thanks.

Dec 07, 2006
Crumbs in France