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Bouchon Beverly Hills, Opening Night, 17 Courses
So last night, Bouchon was finally graced upon us. Staying true to my form, I just had to go opening night, sampling all that I could. Bouchon really needs no further introduction, so I'll get right into the vittles:
Huîtres [$18.00] | oysters (1/2 doz)
Bouchon was featuring five different types of East Coast oysters, so we just had to get one of each, served with mignonette and cocktail sauce:
• Beau Soleil - Nicely crisp, with an extremely briny finish that belied their mild attack.
• Bagaduce, Maine - Milder yet sweeter, with more flavor up front, leading to a slightly bitter finish.
• Umami, Rhode Island - One of my favorites, with a great interplay of sweet, salty, and even petrol flavors.
• Island Creek, Massachusetts - Very nice; a meaty, salty oyster with a briny finish that seemed to strengthen after about 10 seconds.
• Fanny Swede, New Brunswick - A very focused, concentrated oyster, quite nice. I'm not so sure about the name of this one, so please let me know if I've got it wrong.
Beignets de Brandade de Morue [$14.50] | cod brandade with tomato confit & fried sage
Quite simply, brandade is a fine purée of salt cold (morue), olive oil, milk, garlic, and potato, a specialty of the Languedoc and Provence regions of France. Here the brandade is turned into fried fritter form, possessing a light, delicate body as well as a profound cod flavor, balanced beautifully by the sweetness of the tomato and pepperiness of the sage. Very, very good.
Terrine de Foie Gras de Canard [$48.50] | served with toasted baguette (5 oz.)
To this very day, the best cold preparation of foie gras I've ever had is still the Moulard Duck "Foie Gras Terrine" that I consumed on my first French Laundry visit. Thus, expectations were expectedly high. I was a bit surprised at the presentation here, with the liver served simply in a canning jar (à la Church & State), accompanied only by toasted bread. Nevertheless, the terrine was pretty stupendous, superbly capturing the quintessence of foie while still remaining refined and approachable. A bit of salt elevated things even further.
Quiche du Jour [$13.50] | selection varies
Quiche is something that I hadn't had in years prior to this meal. It's basically a dish of egg custard and other ingredients, baked in a pastry crust. Though often associated with French fare, it's actually from Germany originally, specifically from the Lothringen region, which is now known as Lorraine. The word "quiche" even comes from the German kuchen, or cake. The quiche of the day was a take on the original Lorraine. This version had a nice rustic flair, with a fitting interplay between the egg and spinach components. The greens, meanwhile, were a great counter to the heaviness of the quiche.
Pate de Campagne [$13.50] | country style pate with watercress, cornichons & radishes
A pâté de campagne translates to "country terrine," and true to its name, is a more rustic preparation than you'd find with many other pâtés. I appreciated its gritty, coarse texture, nicely moist, with identifiable pieces of pork mixed in (though I would prefer even larger chunks). Its flavor was markedly savory, with a substantial liver-y twang to boot. I liked the contrast of the peppery watercress, sour cornichons, and bitter radishes--all were helpful in balancing out the gravity of the pork.
Rillettes aux Deux Saumons [$16.75] | fresh & smoked salmon rillettes with toasted croutons
Traditionally, rillettes is a preparation of pork whereby the meat is cooked in fat and subsequently shredded into a paste. Bouchon, however, substitutes salmon--fresh and smoked--for pork, which is blended, but not cooked, with fat. The result was stupendous: a luxurious pate, imbued with the pure essence of salmon, but simultaneously rich, dense, and fatty. Excellent.
Forest Mushrooms [$13.50] | à la grecque
One of the specials of the night, this was a mix of mushrooms, done à la grecque, or cooked with vinegar, lemon, herbs, and olive oil, served cold. This resulted in a distinct sweet and sour sapor to the dish, which was light and refreshing. However, I would've preferred a more savory, earthier flavor, to be offset by the frisée.
Frisee aux Lardons et Oeuf Poche [$13.50] | frisee salad with lardons, poached egg, bacon vinaigrette & toasted brioche
With lardons, egg, and frisée on hand, it'd be fairly difficult to screw things up. And indeed, the combination of salty lardons, luscious egg, moderating brioche, and light frisée was excellent, an almost faultless commixture of tastes and textures tied together by the overarching creaminess of egg. Superb.
Pan-Seared Alaskan Halibut [$36.50] | sunchokes, fennel, confit of grapefruit, tarragon
Another special was the halibut. Texture-wise, the fish was near-perfect--soft, flaky, superb. By itself, the halibut was supremely mild, delicate even. I enjoyed the contrast provided by the sunchokes and tarragon, but felt that the fruit overwhelmed the fish's natural savor with a pronounced sweetness. The accompaniments needed to be toned down a bit.
Truite aux Amandes [$27.50] | pan-roasted trout with haricots verts, almonds & beurre noisette
The most controversial dish of the night, this was Bouchon's take on Truite aux Amandes, or trout amandine, a very classic dish of trout, with roots in French and Creole cookery. It's typically made by cooking trout filets in butter, and topping the fish with beurre noisette (brown butter), parsley, lemon (making trout Meunière), and almonds (turning it to Amandine). The trout alone was very mild, possibly underseasoned. We thought that it might've been intentional, but when we asked Chef Keller about it, even he admitted that it wasn't, and that the kitchen was still learning. Looking past the fish, I appreciated the vegetal tang of the green beans, and surprisingly, the almonds weren't overpowering at all (I expected them to render the fish overly sweet). This needs to get better.
Thon Confit a la Nicoise [$31.50] | confit of big eye tuna, pole beans, fingerling potatoes, arugula, hard boiled egg & radish
The tuna was easily the most successful fish entrée of the night. I could've easily eaten the tuna by itself--mild at first, but with a delightful salty finish. However, I loved it with the various accoutrements, which recalled a Niçoise salad. The earthiness of the potatoes, the tang of the beans and lettuce, the bitterness of the radish, and the weightiness of the egg--all worked beautifully in concert with the lightly-cooked tuna.
Gigot d'Agneau [$31.50] | roasted leg of lamb with Swiss chard, pommes boulangère & lamb jus
I first tasted the lamb by itself. It was suitably tender, with a surprisingly elegant savor and just a hint of that signature lamb gaminess--quite nice. Given the finespun flavor of the meat, I found its accompaniments heavy-handed, overpowering the lamb if you weren't careful.
Boudin Noir [$26.50] | blood sausage with potato purée & caramelized apples
Ah, the infamous boudin noir, a blood sausage made with pork and its blood. Taken alone, it had a gritty, concentrated taste with just enough of that iron-tinged flavor. It was best when eaten simultaneously with the potato and apple, with the former tempering the power of the sausage, and the latter adding a sweet counterpoint.
Plats des Cotes de Boeuf [$34.50] | red wine braised beef short rib with caramelized Savoy cabbage, glazed sweet carrots, parsnips & jus de Boeuf
And here, our final savory of the night. It's hard to go too wrong with braised beef, and this was no exception. The beef was superbly balanced, both in terms of taste and texture, and I really appreciated the various vegetables used here, which added a rustic, hearty character to the dish, while balancing out the heft of the beef. Very nice.
Profiteroles [$9.50] | vanilla ice cream & chocolate sauce
A profiterole is a puffed pastry, made with pâte à choux , formed into small round spheres, and filled with ice cream. Here, the pastry was a keen tempering element to the ice cream, with the chocolate adding a nice accent to the puffs--a classic, but delicious flavor profile. Yum.
Ile Flottante [$9.00] | meringue with vanilla creme anglaise, almond & caramel
Ile Flottante, also known as floating island or œufs à la neige, is a somewhat fascinating dessert comprised of an "island" of meringue, set in a "sea" of vanilla crème anglaise, and topped here with almond and caramel. Here, the meringue was almost panna cotta-like in consistency, with an equally delicate flavor indubitably enhanced by its various sugary accoutrements.
Valrhona Chocolate Bouchons [$11.00]
How could we not end with Bouchon's eponymous dessert pastry? Think of these as miniature cork-shaped chocolate cakes, dusted with powdered sugar. Paired with the ice cream, they were a simple, but delicious way to end the meal.
We walked out of Bouchon full and sated. In terms of food, though most of it was on point, there were certainly misses here and there. This isn't unexpected, given that it was opening night. I'm willing to give Bouchon a pass, with the explicit expectation that the wrinkles will be ironed out given time. Service, handled mostly by our lovely server Songhi, couldn't really be faulted.
In the end, Bouchon is a welcomed addition to the Canon Drive dining scene, and I'm sure it'll become a go-to place to satisfy your beignets de brandade cravings, once the kinks get worked out, of course. Hopefully, Los Angeles hasn't seen the last of Thomas Keller. I don't think we're quite ready for another French Laundry, but wouldn't Culver City be a great place for another Ad Hoc, or even the long-awaited "burgers and bottles" concept? I think so.
Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/2009/11/bouc...
Chowhound Post
The Last Meal Ever Served at Muse at The Montage Beverly Hills
Muse at The Montage Beverly Hills, we hardly knew ye.
Muse didn't even last a year. It was to be the premium dining room at the gleaming new Montage, a step up from the more casual (but still fancy) eatery Parq. The man in charge of both places was Executive Chef John Cuevas, who joined Montage Beverly Hills after a four-year stint as Chef de Cuisine of The Loft at the hotel's Orange County outpost. Before his tenure at The Loft, Cuevas helped open Studio, Montage Laguna Beach's signature restaurant.
Cuevas clearly can cook, and created a menu of modern American fare for Muse, seasonal and simply-prepared, putting new twists on familiar elements. I don't think that the problem was with the food. For starters, Muse had the grave misfortunate of opening on the same day as José Andrés' hotly-anticipated The Bazaar. Guess which one people went to? (hint: the one that rhymes with "au revoir") Furthermore, I don't think that the restaurant's PR people did much to bring customers in, or to convince the Canon Drive dining crowd to eat at a new hotel restaurant. Muse was largely invisible, even in the eyes of the City's food cognoscenti.
Whatever the cause, the end result is that Muse as we know it is no longer. We were told by the staff that Friday the 9th was their last day of service, and thus we were their last table, ever. From now on, the space will be used for large parties, an extension of Parq, so to speak. Muse's menu will disappear, though remnants may show up on the more casual restaurant's carte. The official reason for the closure was that business needs dictated that the space would be better suited for the large number of private events that the hotel hosts, but honestly I suspect that it was because bookings were down.
We each went with the six-course Summer Seasonal Menu at $105, plus $60 for appropriate beverage pairings. Seasonal a la carte selections are also available, and we supplemented our tasting menus with eight additional courses.
Amuse Bouche: Pineapple-Blueberry Soup
For an amuse, a shot glass of pineapple and blueberry soup came topped with a frothy cardamom foam. The aromatic smack of the herb was apparent on the attack, with the sugary fruit coming in later, leading to a long, saccharine finish.
1: House-Made Tagliatelle | maitake and parmesan, burnt butter
The pasta itself was tasty, though a bit plain, quite edible on its own but delicious with the mushrooms, which added just the right amount of weight, just the right amount of earthiness to the dish. The cheese, meanwhile, did provide some tang of its own, but for me, it served as more of a textural element.
Supplement 1: Consommé of Wild Mushrooms [$16.00] | charred pineapple and tarragon
Unfortunately, the mushrooms here weren't nearly as successful. The consommé was light in body, and possessed a flavor rich in umami; we compared its sapor to that of ramen broth! Though four types of mushroom were used--portobello, porcini, chanterelle, lobster mushroom--their flavor seemed muddled and indistinct, leaving me unfulfilled. The pineapple was similarly invisible.
Supplement 2: Poached Organic Ranch Egg [$18.00] | creamed leek and crispy pork belly, parmesan
The ranch egg was a big bounce up from the weak consommé, and ended up as arguably my favorite course of the night. The egg was the star of the show for me, providing an enveloping creaminess that enrobed the rich, salty pork belly in its goodness, while the leek provided a vegetal counterbalance. One of my dining companions described this as "bacon and eggs," commenting on its breakfast-like flair.
2: Salad of Heirloom Tomatoes | baby basil and smoked oil, citrus
I loved the presentation of this dish, set in a canning jar; I don't think I've ever seen anything like it before. Fortunately, the contents of said jar were quite delectable as well. The tomatoes were some of the juiciest I've had, with a pleasing tanginess that went beautifully with the icy chunks of sweet citrus granita as well as the savory olive oil. A clean, refreshing course with light, bright flavors.
Supplement 3: Rice Noodles [$22.00] | spiced kimchi and chorizo, garlic
I'm used to having kimchi cool, so the lukewarm presentation here was an interesting change of pace. The temperature seemed to temper the tang of the fermented cabbage, but the kimchi was still plenty powerful to counter the mild, dense, chewy cylinders of rice noodle Though chorizo is strongly flavored in its own right, here it played second fiddle to the kimchi. Overall, quite good.
Supplement 4: Maine Diver Sea Scallop [$24.00] | roasted corn and braised bacon, popcorn
Next came a duet of perfectly cooked scallops, their subtly sweet/briny flavor accented by a superb sear. The bacon added a touch of salt to things, while the corn formed a surprisingly effective accession to the bivalve's natural sweetness. The popcorn and corn "paper," however, were there mostly for texture. Very nice.
3: Sashimi of Australian Suzuki | kimchi and aged soy, golden apples
Suzuki translates roughly to "sea bass," and is a pretty rare species to be found, even at sushi restaurants. Here it had a firm, supple body and mild sapor that went marvelously with the bit of soy provided. Eaten with the kimchi however, the fish's flavor was dominated, turning the suzuki into more of a textural centerpiece, though this effect was somewhat tempered by the apple.
Supplement 5: Roasted La Belle Farms Foie Gras [$28.00] | creamed onion soup and gruyère, bruschetta
Regular readers will know that I usually take issue with seared foie gras being too sweet. Amazingly, the preparation here was actually too salty, too powerful for my tastes. Pairing it with the bread, thus, was a necessity. The soup, which one of my dining companions compared to "gravy," was similarly savory, and although tasty enough on its own, the pairing with the foie didn't quite click with me.
Supplement 6: Pan-Seared New Zealand John Dory [$38.00] | cured lemon and soft basil, burnt butter
John Dory isn't a fish that I have too often. The example here was lean, flaky, firm yet pliant, with a mouthwatering, if somewhat blunt flavor, and beautifully crisp skin. I appreciated how the tanginess of lemon was used to moderate the fish. The Dory came with a plate of asparagus, which I thought was a bit odd, though I did enjoy the contrast provided by the vegetable's bitter smack.
4: Filet of Creekstone Natural Beef | pickled ramps and smoked mushrooms, red wine
It's been a while since I've had a good filet mignon, so this was a nice change of pace. I was, however, surprised at the large portion (for a tasting menu). Cooked medium, it had a textbook tenderloin texture and a perfect char, not too fatty, but with good flavor. I actually preferred to eat the meat by itself, as I found the sauce a bit distracting.
5: Delice de Pommard | whole grain mustard
A fascinating fromage, the Delice comes from the village of Pommard in Burgundy. It is a soft, triple-crème, goat's milk cheese coated in mustard seed. This gave it a delightfully tangy, spicy flavor that rendered the included mustard redundant.
6: Rice Milk Ice Cream | sour cherry and citrus nougat, pistachio
This was one of the best desserts I've had in recent memory. Think of this as an ice cream cake of sorts, one with gorgeous flavors of rice and vanilla, contrasted perfectly by the tart cherry, and accented beautifully by the nutty pistachio and sour nougat. Excellent.
Supplement 7: Crisp Sourdough Waffle [$15.00] | black cherry and mascarpone, balsamic caramel
Quite simply, this was one of the best waffles I've ever had. Perfectly constructed with a crisp exterior hiding a sweet, soft inside, its berry topping lent a tart flavor to the dessert that was deftly countered by the mascarpone and caramel--a superlative study in contrasting flavors, textures, and temperatures.
Supplement 8: Cinnamon Toast Ice Cream [$15.00] | boysenberry gelee and candied brioche, thyme
When I saw this dessert on the menu, I instantly thought of my favorite cereal, Cinnamon Toast Crunch. And indeed, it did not disappoint. The ice cream really captured the essence of the cereal, and together with the finger of brioche, formed a superb combination of sweet and spicy. Meanwhile, the shawl of gelée draped over the brioche did an admirable job in balancing the cinnamon with its rich, jammy, boysenberry flavors. Quite good.
So with that, we left Muse at The Montage sated and satisfied, happy from the good eats, but a bit saddened knowing that we'll never be able to come back. Muse just never got off to a good start, so in a way, its demise comes as no surprise. After returning home, I sent off a tip to Eater LA about Muse's closure, since it hadn't been reported anywhere else. I got back a thanks from editor Kat Odell, but there was nary a mention on the site--I think that about sums it up.
Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/2009/10/muse...
Chowhound Post
CUT 'Wagyu' Rib Eye
Sure: Bazaar, Sona, Stonehill Tavern, XIV.
I really haven't been that impressed though. I find CUT's Japanese Wagyu more satisfying in fact.
Chowhound Post
CUT 'Wagyu' Rib Eye
I don't know which grade CUT uses, but I've been served beef advertised as A5 at several restaurants here in the US.
Chowhound Post
The Tale of an Epic, 6.5-Hour, 22-Course Meal at Providence
The timing between courses was "leisurely" indeed, though they did step things up for dessert (the kitchen wanted to go home too I imagine!).
Chowhound Post
The Tale of an Epic, 6.5-Hour, 22-Course Meal at Providence
By the time we were into the desserts, I was starting to feel it, though it wasn't a problem making it to the end.
As for wine, we did pair wine with each course. To limit our alcohol consumption, we actually split one pairing between two people.
Chowhound Post
The Tale of an Epic, 6.5-Hour, 22-Course Meal at Providence
After my first visit to Providence, where I had the nine-course tasting, I vowed to return and tackle the 16-course Chef's Menu. Well, I came back a second time for a 5x5 event, ordered a la carte on meal three, and then paid a fourth visit for another 5x5. I was thus determined that there would no more messing around this time: my fifth trip would be for the Chef's Menu, end of story. And actually, I did it one better: one of my readers arranged a special 22-course degustation at the Chef's Table, which would end up being the longest meal I've ever had, clocking in at an astounding 6.5 hours!
Amuse Bouche 1: greyhound & gin and tonic
An amuse bouche at Providence almost always includes some sort of spherification. This time is was a Greyhound cocktail, which I'd also had at the last 5x5. A Greyhound is a vodka- or gin-based cocktail enhanced with grapefruit, and this time around, the spherification was somewhat richer in flavor than before, with the tart quintessence of grapefruit artfully captured and exploding in my mouth upon mastication. Along with the Greyhound came a "Gin and Tonic" in gelée form. We were told to squeeze lime juice onto the translucent, oblong cuboid, which in turn activated a distinct, tingly effervescence, simulating the carbonation of tonic water. It was a tart, fizzy experience, like a G&T with very little alcohol.
Amuse Bouche 2: soy wasabi marshmallow, cured trout, gougers, carrot soup/vadouvan
We were told to eat from left to right, so I first tried the cured Tasmanian trout with ginger crème fraîche, crispy rice, and shimeji mushrooms. I quite liked this one, with the mushrooms adding a certain weight to the delicate nature of the fish, while the rice lingered on the close, while also providing a fantastic crunchy textural element to liven things up. Second was the gougère, made with Gruyère and Parmesan. When I bit into it, the cheese puff exploded, coating my palate with its contents--a hot, gooey, salty liquid that was quite in-your-face, thanks to the use of that second cheese. Next I had the soy marshmallow, coated with wasabi-green pea dust. The marshmallow itself was incredibly soft, almost ethereal, but packed a biting punch, an amalgam of salty and sweet and spicy, with a lingering pea-tinged finish. Finally came the chilled carrot soup with vadouvan and crème fraîche. The spice blend was apparent on the fiery attack, but was tempered somewhat by the creamy crème fraîche; the carrot only came to the fore on the late midpalate, and was the main component I tasted on the finish.
Amuse Bouche 3: hokkaido scallop | nasturtium blossoms, crispy rice cracker
The final amuse was also the best. The key here was how the nasturtium and wasabi countered the scallop's innate sweetness with an admixture of peppery and spicy notes, thus forming the perfect foil to the mollusk. Meanwhile, the rice added a fantastic crispness to an otherwise creamy dish, taking things up a notch. Superb.
1: kanpachi sashimi | endive, summer truffle vinaigrette, soy crème fraiche
Our first "real" course was comprised of kanpachi, served with sous vide endive, yuzu, soba, soy crème fraîche, and black truffle. What made this dish for me was the interplay between the kanpachi and the truffle, with the truffle adding a profound earthiness and gravity to the otherwise subtle fish. Texturally, things worked out perfectly as well, with the bits of soba adding a fantastic crunch to things, while the endive had a very pleasing, snappy consistency as well. Arguably my favorite course of the evening.
2: santa barbara sea urchin | served in a farm fresh egg, champagne beurre blanc, fines herbes
Next we have Cimarusti's take on the classic "egg cup" dish: slow-cooked yolk, Santa Barbara sea urchin, Champagne butter sauce, toasted brioche croutons, fines herbes, and American caviar. I appreciated how the salty caviar cut the rich, monolithic creaminess of the yolk, but the egg-on-egg action was the ticket here, with the yolk tempering the brininess of the uni considerably. Some, however, would've liked the uni to have been more apparent, and I can definitely understand that point of view as well.
3: grilled santa barbara spot prawns | served simply with french olive oil and lemon
Now for some tableside presentation: a cart was wheeled in, on top of which sat a pan containing five beautiful salt-grilled spot prawns. Providence Co-Owner and Maître d' Donato Poto proceeded to serve the shrimp, separating the head and tail sections, then splitting the two pieces before plating. The natural sweetness of prawn was deftly balanced by the salt, while the lemon added a great sour tang to spice things up. Most of my dining companions actually preferred the more flavorful head portion.
4: unagi | summer truffle, crushed potato, quail egg
Here was quite possibly the best preparation of unagi (freshwater eel) I've ever had. Though some thought that it was overly fishy, I appreciated the eel's strong, heady savor, as well as its exceptionally crisp, oily skin. The cruces of the dish for me was the potato, which did a great job in mitigating the unagi's overt fishiness, as well as the quail egg, which added a moderating creaminess to the dish. Again, as with the first course, the application of summer truffle worked beautifully here as well.
5: wild turbot | matsutake, sake, rosemary
Following up my best ever unagi was perhaps my best ever turbot. What did it for me was the use of rosemary; pairing it with the turbot was genius, with the pungency of the herb complementing the hearty, buttery fish superbly. I especially enjoyed the crispy, super-saporous skin. The matsutakes, at the same time, mixed things up texturally, while providing a subtle veil of earthiness.
6: pasta alla chitarra | italian black summer truffles
A specialty of the Abruzzo region, alla chitarra refers to pasta that has been formed by forcing flat pasta through a chitarra, a grid of finely spaced strings. The pasta was dressed simply with olive oil and set before us, unadorned. Donato then stepped inside with a basket of truffles, and proceed to give each of us a generous shaving. The fungi's heady aroma was intoxicating, but its flavor was actually tempered by the heavy, al dente noodles, as well as the olive oil.
7: niman ranch pork belly | carrot-orange purée, pickled ramps, mizuna, carrot-ginger butter
I've been liking pork belly more and more as of late, and this course just continued the trend. The pork itself actually reminded us of pastrami, with its distinctive brine and pepperiness. It was also quite fatty, but not overwhelming so, with a delightfully crunchy skin to boot. The belly's weight was simultaneously balanced by the sweetness from the carrot sauce and the pungent bitterness of the mizuna and ramps.
8: columbia river king salmon | kumquat, peas, jurançon
The salmon was a point of contention for us. The salmon itself couldn't be faulted, but some thought that the kumquat was far too tart, overshadowing the natural savor of the fish. For me though, that wasn't an issue, and I really appreciated the vegetal tang and finish imparted by the peas. We all, however, agreed on the brilliance of the stupendously unctuous and flavorful skin.
9: loin of colorado lamb | eggplant, artichoke, celebrity tomato
The lamb had the honor of inspiring the best quote of the night: My lamb has more game than my date! This seemingly Delicious Life-inspired line had some merit though; the lamb was more robust than most, and though it was too overbearing for some, I appreciated its rank, as well as its delicate body. But it wasn't just about the lamb, the tomato compote added a distinct weight, a marked sweetness to counter the slight sourness of the meat, while the artichoke accented things with a bit of bitterness. The best accoutrement, though, was the basil sauce, with a bold pungency that greatly tempered the lamb.
10: japanese wagyu beef (gunma, japan) | roasted asparagus, wild mushrooms, bacon parmesan risotto
I think we were all blown away by the beef here. Magnificently marbled, tremendously tender, supremely sapid, with a splendid, savory crust--it was as good as any you'd find in a high-end steakhouse, and that includes CUT. It was so good, in fact, that I preferred to eat it completely devoid of any trappings. The asparagus, mushroom, butterball potato, beef jus, even the risotto--they were fine, but unnecessary in my opinion.
11: cheese selection
Providence has always had one of the best cheese carts in the City, from which we were given a select sextet of fromage, accompanied by figs, candied walnuts, apricot-black pepper jam, apple jam, and nut bread:
• Capriole Sofia - My second favorite of the bunch, this was a delicate, slightly sweet, lightly flavored goat cheese from producer Capriole out of Greenville, Indiana.
• Tomme de Chèvre des Pyrenees - Tomme is a term that generally refers to cheese produced in the French alps; however, this example was from a different mountain range: the Pyrenees. It was a goat's milk cheese, with a mild, subtly salty character.
• Ossau-Iraty - Next was another cheese from the Pyrenees, though this time one made from sheep milk. The Ossau-Iraty had a creamy, medium-firm body and lightly nutty sapor.
• Gubbeen Cheese - From Ireland comes this surface-ripened, semi-soft cow's milk cheese with a pleasant, soft earthiness and lovely nuttiness.
• Grès de Vosges - This was a soft cow's milk cheese from Alsace, notable for its gooey consistency and pungent, sweet flavor (from the use of kirsch in the production process). Easily my favorite of the set.
• Rogue River Blue Cheese - A cheese plate just wouldn't seem complete without a bleu, so here we had one from Rogue Creamery of Central Point, Oregon. Made from raw cow's milk and wrapped in grape leaves, the cheese was sharp, herbaceous, and a bit sweet.
Dessert Amuse Bouche: cantaloupe soup
And with that, we were on to dessert. Though our menus listed the "Mojito" spherification as the pre-dessert, we were instead given this (due to the similarity between the Mojito and the Greyhound): a cantaloupe soup with blackberry gelée, vanilla ice cream, lime granita, and mint. It was a great substitution. The cantaloupe was ever-present, a base on which the sweet berry, sour lime, and creamy vanilla could play, while the mint gave the shot an overarching lightness.
12: kalamansi gelee | white chocolate coconut soy milk soup, litchi-shiso sorbet
First up was a dessert with a distinctly Thai-influenced tinge, thanks to the coconut and the pandan-esque flavor of the sorbet. It thus had a sweetness reminiscent of Lod-Chong Nam Ka-Ti, a dessert of pandan noodles in coconut milk, but was balanced by the tartness of the kalamansi, or calamondin, gelée. Overall, a light, refreshing course to kick things off.
13: mud creek blackberries | yuzu curd, blackberry-jasmine sorbet, meringue, warm almond cake
Next, an interesting study in the interaction between sweet and sour. We have a meringue tube, filled with a tangy yuzu curd, atop an almond cake. The curd-cake complex was rather nondescript on its own, but was countered beautifully by the sorbet, imbued with the saccharine essence of blackberry, and the blackberry fruit itself.
14: harry's strawberries | basil ice cream, balsamic marshmallow, pistachios
Surprisingly, the bracing, pungent smack of the basil proved a superb complement to the cloying sweetness of the strawberry--a fanciful, yet fabulously fitting foil. The pistachios, meanwhile, provided a countervailing nuttiness, as well as a great crunchy textural ingredient, while the heavy, toasty balsamic marshmallow seemed a bit out of place, though it did add a distinct gravity to the dish.
15: miso cheesecake | masumoto peaches, black sesame, white peach sorbet
This next dessert was easily the most controversial of the series, due to the miso cheesecake. The cake was actually quite savory, especially when taken in concert with the black sesame; one of my dining companions even likened its flavor to Cheez Whiz! As a result, it was a bit disconcerting to eat, though fortunately it was tempered significantly by the sugary peach (from Masumoto Family Farm in Fresno) and peach sorbet.
16: chocolate ganache | peanut butter, "these pretzels are making me thirsty", chambly noir ice cream
Given that I'm not a fan of peanut butter, it's not surprising that this dessert wasn't a hit with me. Nevertheless, the ganache did do an admirable job in covering its sapor, while the pretzels contributed a bit of saltiness, while adding a great crunch to things. The best part of this, though, was the ice cream made from Unibroue's Chambly Noire dark ale, with its unique bitterness, smokiness, and toffee notes.
17: a café in bordeaux | coffee mousse, canelé ice cream, chicory caramel and hazelnuts
This was actually a dessert that I had on my last visit. A canelé is a type of pastry from the Bordeaux region of France; however, the "canelé" here was merely a shell, filled with a cold coffee mousse center. The canelé's delectable rum- and vanilla-tinged flavor was thereby moved to the ice cream, with the hazelnuts providing a lovely, nutty finish. A great interplay of tastes and textures--I can see why this is the restaurant's most popular dessert.
18: white chocolate, mango and cardamom lollipop
And now, Providence's infamous lollipop. Despite being made with mango, we all thought that it tasted of banana, with a spicy savory accent on account of the cardamom. Humorously, we were warned not to shoot the glass of sugar!
Without a doubt, this was my strongest Providence meal to date. While my previous visits were certainly enjoyable, it's only now that I was able to realize the full extent of Michael Cimarusti's talent. What I experienced clearly demonstrated a masterful grasp of ingredients, combined with plenty of innovation, creativity, and a touch of "molecular" technique, all together creating what I consider the most exciting seafooder in the City--it is clear to me now why Michelin chose to bestow two stars here.
Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/2009/08/prov...
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Urasawa, August 2009 Report -- Number of Visits: 5; Number of Courses: 40
If you'd like to sponsor me, we can take a trip to Totoraku pretty much any time. ;)
In fact, I'll be going in a month with a reader of mine. It's just a small group of four, to maximize his and his wife's time with Oyama-san (in order to make a good impression, so that they make gain the ability to make reservations themselves).
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Urasawa, August 2009 Report -- Number of Visits: 5; Number of Courses: 40
Yes, I used a DSLR on this visit, while the others were shot with a P&S.
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Urasawa, August 2009 Report -- Number of Visits: 5; Number of Courses: 40
Last I heard, Hiro-san still doesn't use a computer. However, his sister and brother-in-law do, and I imagine that they show him any interesting Urasawa-related items that they stumble upon.
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Urasawa, August 2009 Report -- Number of Visits: 5; Number of Courses: 40
So you won't go back to your favorite restaurant...
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Urasawa, August 2009 Report -- Number of Visits: 5; Number of Courses: 40
Last time at Mori (which was, admittedly, two years ago), the omakase was around $200 per person if I recall. Isn't that still the case?
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Urasawa, August 2009 Report -- Number of Visits: 5; Number of Courses: 40
Since this was my fifth time here, I'll skip the pleasantries and get right into the amazing experience that is Urasawa. Base price was $350pp, or $500pp out the door.
To Drink - As usual, we brought some Champagne to pair with the meal, this time a trio consisting of the 1996 Dom Pérignon Rosé, 2002 Louis Roederer Cristal, and 1995 Krug. Corkage is $50 per bottle ($100 per magnum). We also purchased two bottles of sake from Urasawa's list, the Watari Bune, Shiboritate Namazake Genshu, Junmai-Ginjo from Ibaraki Prefecture [$80] and the Hiroki, Special Classic, Tokubetsu Junmai from Fukushima [$90]. Sake corkage is $70 per bottle.
1. Toro Tataki - Hiro-san usually likes to start with a light toro tataki dish, and tonight's iteration had seared toro wrapped around an amalgam of shrimp, uni, and shiso, topped with radish, scallion, and shiso flower, garnished with yuzu juice and skin, soy, vinegar, and sweet sake (mirin). The attack was a mixture of sweet and tangy, a somewhat bracing sensation that eventually gave way to the sweeter, creamier midpalate, thanks to the uni and ebi, no doubt. The finish was flush with citrus and it was here that the flavor of the fish finally came to the fore. The shrimp, meanwhile, provided a pleasing snap and crunch that livened up the dish texturally.
2. Ikura Chawan Mushi - Next up was an egg custard with shiitake mushroom and shiro ebi, covered with ikura and topped with mitsuba and 23-carat gold. Dipping into the silky chawanmushi, I noted a fantastic contrast between the briny, salty roe and the rich, luscious egg custard. The mitsuba gave the dish a sharp tang while the mushroom and shrimp added a palpable weight and provided a bit of textural variation as well. Very good.
3. Wagyu Tartare - I loved the presentation of this one: a big wooden spoon heaping with chopped wagyu beef, pickled radish, caviar, scallion, and shiso, all topped with uni. A luxurious dish, I first experienced a tangy attack on account of the radish, which really tempered the decadence of the beef. At the same time, the uni acted as a moderating element, while the generous dollop of caviar was relegated to a supporting player. The long, lingering finish was dominated by the admixture of beef and pickles.
4. Sashimi - The sashimi course is one of the constants at an Urasawa dinner. Placed in a hand-carved block of ice were:
• Toro from Boston - This was arguably the best toro sashimi I've had in all my Urasawa visits. It was incredibly unctuous and oozed oil upon chewing, but yet, at the same time, it remained light, delicate in flavor. It was delicious on its own, but even better when balanced by the wasabi and soy.
• Tai from Kyushu - A clean, crisp cut of snapper, this was textbook tai, with a mild flavor that was good with the wasabi, but superb with the tart red cabbage.
• Uni from Hokkaido - Perhaps the perfect uni: unabashedly sweet, yet kissed with the briny essence of the ocean. Even better when paired with the seaweed.
5. Marinated Seafood - Served in a tagine-like vessel were abalone from Chiba, shrimp, Japanese shark's fin, and the Hokkaido uni. I started with the awabi, which was tender, yet satisfying to chew, with a uniquely gelatinous consistency that wasn't what I was expecting. I then had the abalone entrails, which were sweet and gamy, a stark contrast to the mild flavor of the mollusk's adductor muscle. The shrimp was plump, snappy, and satisfying, but the standout here was the shark fin: gossamer, ethereal, imbued with the flavor of all the other ingredients. It reminded me of why it's considered such a desirable delicacy.
6. Sake-Steamed Beef - The pot contained Japanese beef wrapped around shrimp, shiitake, and uni, steamed with sake; it came with an oroshi ponzu (ponzu with daikon radish) dipping sauce. What struck me about the dish was the temperature contrast between hot and cold--the interplay between warm beef and its cool fillings--fantastic. Flavor-wise, the morsels were sweet initially, with the richness of the wagyu coming in afterwards, while the ponzu provided a tart complement. The finish, meanwhile, was uniquely uni-tinged while the ebi did wonders texturally.
7. Anago Tempura - It's hard to go wrong with tempura, and here we had a fine example of anago, or sea/conger eel, from Tokyo Bay (the top spot for eel I'm told). This was actually my first time with anago tempura, and I really appreciated its delicate white flesh, mild flavor, and crispy, savory battered exterior. As usual, the tempura was paired with a tentsuyu dipping sauce and a mound of grated daikon and ginger. The sauce elevated the dish, adding a sweet/tangy component to the anago that really made for a great pairing.
8. Seared Toro - The stone-seared toro is always one of Urasawa's most highly anticipated courses, and for good reason! Upon touching the stone, the toro released a cloud of rich, savory smoke that whetted our appetites even more. Eating the toro was almost like eating a ridiculously-marbled piece of beef--it pretty much broke apart in my mouth upon mastication. I absolutely adored the unabashedly unctuous consistency of the fish, and how the fat, flesh, and char interacted in my mouth. The paired ponzu, meanwhile, did its part in cutting the decadence of the toro, but the fish's sapor lived on in a ridiculously lingering finish.
9. Shabu Shabu - Next to the seared toro above, the shabu shabu course is also one of the most sought after dishes at Urasawa. There are always slight variations in the assortment of shabu items, and this time we were given the following:
• Hamo - The king eel had a surprisingly rich flavor, as well as a soft, spongy texture. It went superbly with the sweet ponzu.
• Hotategai - Next to go was the scallop--firm and unconscionably sweet.
• Kagoshima Wagyu - My favorite of this set, this had the perfect amount of fat, giving the beef an absurdly pleasing texture, and a flavor that was deftly offset by the use of scallion.
• Foie Gras - Cooked the longest, the foie had a firm, yet yielding texture and a subtle, sublime sapor that just lingered in my mouth. Even one of my dining companions, who wasn't previously a fan of the liver, enjoyed this.
• Kombu - I made sure to eat the kombu separately this time, and it was some of the best kelp I've had. It was from Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture, and possessed a sweet, satisfying smack and a wonderfully crisp consistency.
10. Shabu Shabu Broth - The resultant shabu shabu broth is always a treat to imbibe. The key here is the foie gras; note how the liver's fats are visible on the soup's surface. This provides for a heavy, hearty stock absolutely saturated with the pure essence of foie gras. Yet, it was not overwhelming, thanks in part to the light, vegetal tang of the scallion.
11. Toro / Fatty Tuna - Unlike at just about every other sushi place, Urasawa's omakase starts with toro, and that's perfectly fine with me. The fish was certainly deserving of the moniker melt-in-your-mouth, enveloping my palate with its luxuriousness. The fat was mitigated by the application of wasabi, resulting in something decadent, yet delicate. Superb.
12. Seared Toro / Seared Fatty Tuna - Given how good the toro is, you'd think that you should just leave well enough alone. However, lightly searing the tuna yields wondrous results, making the fish even more unctuous, even more profound, with the taste of the char contrasting beautifully with the toro's natural succulence.
13. Kanpachi / Amberjack - Flavor-wise, the kanpachi wasn't terribly distinctive--clean, mild, and nicely accented by the wasabi. What wowed me here was the impeccable texture, a stunning combination of snap and yield.
14. Aji / Spanish Mackerel - Aji's arguably my favorite sushi fish, and this quintessential example merely reinforced that notion. The flesh was firm, a satisfying chew, while the taste was very fine, not fishy at all. Note the lovely scoring of the skin.
15. Tai / Snapper - From Kyushu island comes this belly of tai. Snapper is a fitting nomenclature for the fish, given its snappy texture! Truly a paragon of tai, the combination of soy and sudachi was perfect, and note the crosshatch pattern on the fish's top surface.
16. Hon Maguro / Bluefin Tuna - Regular tuna can be a bit boring, but this was just about the softest, most buttery piece of maguro I've ever had, more buttery than many pieces of toro I've eaten in fact! In terms of taste though, it was very mild, so the texture was key here.
17. Shima Aji / Striped Jack - On my May 2008 visit, the shima aji was my favorite piece of sushi, and though it didn't reach quite the same lofty heights this time around, the shima aji was nevertheless quite tasty, with a light, refined flavor accented by a sharp wasabi finish. The best part about the fish was its firm, crisp texture.
18. Ika / Squid - From Japan comes this creamy, palate-coating squid that gave my mouth quite the workout. Taste-wise, the ika was subtly sweet, aptly accented by the grated sudachi and salt.
19. Shiitake / Mushroom - I've had shiitake nigiri on every visit here so far, yet Urasawa remains the only place where I've seen it done. The preparation really brings out the smoky, woody, earthy nature of the mushroom, balanced by the rice and wasabi.
20. Uni / Sea Urchin Roe - I must say, this was some of the best uni I've ever had. Delicate, sweet, and super-creamy, it was a model of what sea urchin should be. And the wasabi kick at the end? Beautiful. It even managed to convince one of my dining companions who'd previously had an uni aversion.
21. Chu-Toro / Medium Fatty Tuna - I've had plenty of toro and plenty of maguro at Urasawa, but amazingly, this was the first time that chu-toro was served. As expected, it had a richer, fattier flavor than the standard tuna, though it obviously wasn't up to the level of toro. What surprised me however was that the texture was a bit more unyielding than the standard hon maguro.
22. Shiro Ebi / White Shrimp - Urasawa remains the only place where I've been served nigiri made from shiro ebi, small white shrimp gathered off the coast of Toyama Prefecture. Given their small size, about a score of shrimp was needed to construct a single piece of sushi, and the mass broke apart instantly upon mastication. Their flavor was mildly sweet, and very creamy, with a gelatinous body.
23. Awabi / Abalone - From Japan came this abalone, with a subtle sweetness that was perked up by the application of tangy grated sudachi and fiery wasabi. Texturally it was firm, though somewhat supple, not overly crunchy. Note the scoring on the surface of the awabi.
24. Mirugai / Geoduck - The award for crunchiest item of the night would be taken by this mirugai, a.k.a. giant clam or elephant truck clam. It was a very pleasing crispness though, not tough at all, but satisfying. In terms of flavor, it had an intense, briny smack, backed by a bit of sweetness.
25. Toro / Fatty Tuna #2 - At this point, Hiro-san asked us if we'd like more toro. The correct answer is, of course: "yes please!" It was much the same as the previous one: scrumptious.
26. Kohada / Japanese Gizzard Shad - Kohada is also known as Japanese gizzard shad, or Japanese herring as Hiro-san likes to call it. It was an oily fish, with a strong yet slightly sugary taste, lovely skin, and a uniquely firm consistency. Quite nice.
27. Negi-Toro Maki - Containing chopped toro, negi (leek), and takuan (pickled daikon, which aids in digestion), this is just about the only maki roll you'll see at Urasawa. What struck me was the texture of the pickle, which gave the roll a wondrous crunch and sour flavor. The leek, meanwhile, providing a bracing tang that tempered the lavishness of the toro. The roll is shown here sitting in soy sauce.
28. Gyusashi / Beef - Of the nigiri, the gyusashi is one of the ones that I look forward to the most. It didn't disappoint this time either, with an incredible beefy sumptuousness balanced by the mitigating tang of citrus. One of the tastiest bites of the night!
29. Uni / Sea Urchin Roe #2 - Another round of uni. What happened was that Hiro-san accidentally got more uni than he needed, and thus had to "get rid of it," which was fine by us! I've only had Santa Barbara uni on my previous visits, so it was nice to have the Hokkaido version this time, considered the finest in the world I understand, with a season running from May to October. What I'd really like to do is compare Santa Barbara and Hokkaido back-to-back and see if I can discern a difference.
30. Amaebi / Sweet Shrimp - This was pretty much the acme of amaebi: sweet yet briny, creamy yet crunchy. It was heightened by the use of a sauce made from the shrimp's innards, which gave the amaebi a distinctly sweet-metallic tinge. One of my dining companions called it the best amaebi he's ever had, and I can see why.
31. Amaebi Sashimi / Sweet Shrimp Sashimi - Here's something I didn't know: at Urasawa, you can request sashimi versions of the nigiri sushi, as we see here. Instead of entrails sauce, the amaebi is accompanied simply by a dollop of wasabi. The end result is a very different experience than with the sushi: the texture was even more apparent in this case, and the flavor was much milder, with the sweetness accentuated.
32. Aji No Tataki / Chopped Spanish Mackerel - Here we have another item that I've only seen at Urasawa--an amalgamation of chopped aji, Kyoto miso, scallion, shiso, and ginger. This is one that I always look forward to, as it has a great base of aji to begin with, which is then accented by the sweetness of the miso and the invigorating savor of the shiso-scallion-ginger complex. Excellent.
33. Chu-Toro / Medium Fatty Tuna #2 - Our second round of chu-toro here. Think of a fattier maguro. Delish!
34. Shima Aji / Striped Jack #2 - Compared to the first, I liked the texture of this one even better.
35. Anago / Sea Eel - I usually tend to favor unagi over anago for its more unctuous nature, but this version would give unagi a run for its money. It was suitable fatty, suitably lush, and well-accented by the included sweet sauce (we told the newbies that it was chocolate sauce!). I think this might've been the best anago I've had yet at Urasawa.
36. Tamago / Egg - Unlike most places' tamago, the example here resembles a cake more than an omelet, perhaps even resembling datemaki in that regard. Dense, heavy, and moist, its flavor was an intriguing interplay of sweet and savory.
37. Peach Gelée - And with that, we were on to desserts. The first was this gelée of peach, topped with goji berry (a.k.a. wolfberry) and gold foil. The gelatin had a surprisingly unyielding consistency, and a taste that was like eating liquefied peach. Chunks of the fruit made for a nice textural variation.
38. Goma Aisu Kurimu - Urasawa's sesame ice cream always satisfies. We asked Hiro-san what was in it and he responded that soy milk, cream cheese, and honey were used. No matter, the result was an ice cream absolutely infused with the pure quintessence of sesame. I wish I could take a pint or two home!
39. Matcha - Matcha is a variety of powdered green tea, often used in Japanese tea ceremonies. The tea's texture was frothy, gritty, and grainy, with a strong, bitter flavor that cut right through the sugariness of the desserts.
40. Hojicha - The second tea was a roasted green tea. Mild and easy-drinking, it was a nice way to close out a meal and Urasawa, and I always find myself having multiple cups of it.
What can I say about Urasawa that hasn't already been said? Though this is now my fifth visit, I can say that the place never disappoints, and that I look forward to and treasure every meal I have here. One of my dining companions described the experience as a "symphony of food" in terms of a progression of flavors, and I think that the phrase sums things up nicely. During the meal, Hiro-san and I discussed how the vaunted Michelin guide was leaving LA, and the reasons behind the move. Urasawa may never get its third star, but if there's any place in the City that deserves it, this'd be the spot.
Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/2009/08/uras...
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Interesting Dinner with the Top Chef: Stefan's at LA Farm
Andrea, I thought that that was interesting as well. Alba went on opening night, so perhaps things have been tweaked for the better? I do agree with you about coming back once things have settled a bit.
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Interesting Dinner with the Top Chef: Stefan's at LA Farm
I think you might be right, though your aversion to certain aspects of the meal seems to run deeper than mine. How do we line up for other places?
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Interesting Dinner with the Top Chef: Stefan's at LA Farm
OK, I admit it, I never really watched Top Chef. All I knew about Stefan Richter was that he was the bald, cocky, European guy who was arguably the best cook on the show. Despite his skills though, Richter ended up, along with Carla Hall, as a mere runner-up to eventual winner Hosea Rosenberg.
Stefan's menu is split by small plates, appetizers, and mains. The most interesting items are found in the small plates selection--I mean, who can resist something called "Like a Big Mac?" A word of warning though, small plates really does mean small in this case.
Now the food:
Sweetbread Schnitzel with Potato Salad [$3.00]
When most Americans hear the term schnitzel, we tend to think of the infamous hot dogs of fast food chain Wienerschnitzel (which, ironically, doesn't actually serve its eponymous dish). A schnitzel is, in reality, a breaded and fried meat cutlet, and Richter's version substitutes sweetbreads for the traditional fillings of veal, pork, or chicken. The sweetbread was firm, dense, with a mild initial flavor leading to a richer, gamier finish. The tart, tangy potato salad, thus, was a superb complement, effectively cutting the considerable gravity of the schnitzel. My favorite item of the night.
Truffle Arancini with Lemon Aioli [$3.00]
A dish of Italian origins, an arancino is a rice ball, typically filled with a meat ragù and mozzarella cheese, that's been breaded and fried. Richter's take adds shaved truffle into the mix. The result is a delicious cube of creamy, cheesy rice, though the truffle essence could've been more pronounced. Texture-wise, the crisp, crunchy exterior was a fitting foil to the creamy insides, and I enjoyed the tartness of the lemon in tempering the arancino's weight.
Kumamoto Oyster with Absinthe Jello and Fennel Vinaigrette [$3.00]
Kumamotos are my favorite variety of oyster, and here again, I loved its crisp, clean, briny sweetness and snappy consistency. The use of absinthe and fennel added an extremely subtle anise tinge to the bivalve, but I wish that flavor would've been more manifest.
Sonoma Foie Gras with Cracked White Pepper, Smoked Salt and Griddled Brioche [$3.00]
The foie actually turned out much nicer than I'd expected, with the salt and pepper proving to be a great accent to the flavor of the liver. Meanwhile, the brioche really tempered the foie, mitigating its intensity while giving the dish a bready finish and lovely complexion. Very good.
Like a Big Mac [$3.00]
With such a provocative nomenclature (and being a fan of the ubiquitous sandwich), how could I not order this? This was like a mini-mini-burger, a half-slider, a one-bite wonder. It was filled with a beef patty, a Swiss-like cheese, red onion, caramelized onion, and some sort of green vegetable (lettuce? arugula?). At first, I thought that the burger was tasty, though not particularly similar to a Big Mac; it was only on the finish that the resemblance made itself known to me. I would say that the beef could've been done rarer though.
Tater Tots with Hidden Valley Ranch [$3.00]
Tater Tots were a favorite of mine during my adolescence, when I would fare them regularly at the school cafeteria. The Tots here, done extra crunchy, thus made for a somewhat nostalgic eating experience. As for the rationale behind the sauce, Richter mentioned that Hidden Valley Ranch was a staple of his when he first came to the US. Amazing, the dipping sauce actually uses real Hidden Valley Ranch (notice that the phrase is not quoted)! A simple but satisfying dish, with the tanginess of the ranch offsetting the monolithal potato nicely.
Beef Tartare with Poached Quail Egg and Breadstick [$5.00]
Our final taste of the small plates spread was this tartare (I have a hard time not ordering tartare if it's on the menu). This was certainly a nice example--lightly flavored meat, a tinge of mustard, a bit of creaminess from the egg, bracing greens, and a subtly acerbic finish. I would've liked to have seen a different breadstick though, as it was identical to the ones in our bread basket.
Sliced Pigs Head with Champagne Chive Vinaigrette, Radishes and Frisée [$12.00]
Think of this as head cheese, basically a cold cut made with pork cheek and other ingredients in an aspic-like gelatin. It had a marked saltiness, with a pleasing tanginess thanks in part to the vinaigrette, and the radishes and frisée worked well in balancing the meat. However, I would've preferred thicker slices, to better appreciate the texture and flavor of the head, though Richter later advised against this, saying that the resulting dish would be too rubbery.
Lobster and Scallop Risotto with English Peas, Dill, Champagne and Dandelions [$20.00]
As I've mentioned before, if risotto's on offer, then I pretty much have to order it. This was a solid example, with rice that was near al dente--creamy, yet still with some bite--it was slightly too soupy however. Flavor-wise, the initial attack was quite rich, cheesy in fact, while the peas came into the fore on the midpalate, balancing things out with their vegetal tang. The seafood, meanwhile, gave the risotto an enjoyable, briny finish.
Braised Pork Cheek and Caraway Sausage with Sauerkraut, Pretzel Dumplings and Beer Sauce [$19.00]
An unabashed nod to Richter's Germanic heritage, this next dish is also among the most oft ordered, at least according to our Kurdistani server Furkat. The pork itself was braised to a tender, but still somewhat firm texture. My dining companion thought it overly tough and dry, but I appreciated the bit of bite that it still had. My favorite element here, though, was the housemade sausage. I'm a big fan of cased meat, and this was a particularly fine example, with a fantastic sweet-spicy interplay and rich flavor. The dumplings, made from pretzel bread, were also quite enjoyable. Finally, the acidic sauerkraut went a long way in balancing the heft of all the other elements here, though I would've liked the cabbage a bit crisper.
Nutmeg Crusted California Halibut, Braised Baby Fennel, Sunchokes and Lobster Broth [$24.00]
We were pretty much ready for dessert at this point, but decided to order this last savory for the hell of it (deciding between it and the veal chop, actually). The main issue we had with this dish was that the nutmeg crust was too thick, too tough, thus taking attention away from the actual flesh of the halibut, which was indeed quite delicious. I would've also appreciated a thinner broth, with a more delicate application of lobster essence. Though my dining companion would disagree with me on this point, I enjoyed the use of fennel here, which provided a lightening vegetal foil to an otherwise hearty dish.
Red Wine Ice Cream Lollipop [$3.00]
Though these lollipops recalled those from Providence in appearance, they were a completely different animal. Rather than getting an explosive burst of liquid upon mastication, you first get a tart, creamy exterior imbued with the essence of red wine, which then leads to a crunchy, chocolatey center. Great fun.
Nutella Crème Brûlée [$3.00]
Nutella and crème brûlée--it'd be pretty hard to go wrong with this combination. And indeed, this was a tasty little morsel, nutty, yet chocolatey; think crème brûlée, but one that tastes like Ferrero Rocher. The whole presentation is reminiscent of a cigarette and ash tray, no? Richter is a smoker after all.
Mousse au Chocolat with Baumkuchen [$8.00]
A baumkuchen ("tree cake") is a kind of layered cake traditionally made by brushing layers of batter on a cake rotating on a spit. Since LA Farm lacks such a contraption, the version here is made by layering horizontal strata of batter in a baking pan. In any case, it came sliced very thin and topped with chocolate mousse. The mousse itself was quite appetizing, and the cake provided a nice moderating contrast to the sugariness of the cream. However, I would've preferred a more substantial portion of the baumkuchen.
It seems like Richter has done a fine job in revamping the old LA Farm. His cuisine certainly draws upon his Continental roots, but is intentionally eclectic, and still influenced by the Farm's Californian roots to be sure. The menu is bold, brash, reflecting the Chef's somewhat larger-than-life persona; Richter's still tweaking it, adding and dropping items, hopefully refining things based on early feedback, so it might be fun to revisit the place once things have settled down. Stefan's is a welcome addition to the Westside, and though Richter didn't prevail on Top Chef, perhaps he may just have an even bigger prize here on the Farm.
Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/2009/08/stef...
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Hatchi at Breadbar with Michael Voltaggio
We weren't told how the sweetbreads were cooked, but I imagine that they were sautéed; in any case, they were quite delicious indeed. And the "soil," I expected it to be placed underneath the sweetbreads, not sprinkled on top.
As for the pastrami, yes, it was from Saul Cooperstein of SBE. I believe I heard something from Voltaggio about how Saul would use Wagyu as well.
Chef Strong has started at Studio as far as I know, though I've not been back since. It might be interesting to compare his cuisine with that of former chef James Boyce. No idea what Remi's up to these days though.
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Revealed: Michael Voltaggio's New Menu at The Dining Room at The Langham
Your concerns mirror my own. Hopefully they'll be able to attract enough people from the Westside. Perhaps some Bazaar followers will make the trek over?
About Chef Strong, he moved over to Studio at The Montage down in south OC. Doesn't that audience seem rather conservative as well?
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Revealed: Michael Voltaggio's New Menu at The Dining Room at The Langham
I wasn't hungry, but I wasn't stuffed.
However, the portions we had were from a special tasting menu. If you order a la carte, you do get more.
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Revealed: Michael Voltaggio's New Menu at The Dining Room at The Langham
This week was a double-dose of Michael Voltaggio, a chef who's been making headlines as of late, thanks to his recent, well-publicized move from José Andrés' The Bazaar/Saam to The Dining Room, as well as his stint on the new season of Top Chef (where he'll be competing against older brother Bryan). Just two days earlier, I'd experienced Voltaggio's cooking at Breadbar's Hatchi dinner series (http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/6409... and my positive experience there definitely whetted my appetite for this more formal, more complete examination of Voltaggio's culinary aspirations here at The Dining Room. Early in his career, Voltaggio worked at The Ritz-Carlton in Naples, Florida, so his return to The Langham, previously a Ritz-Carlton property, seems somehow appropriate.
The Dining Room's highly-anticipated new menu represents a stark change of pace from the carte of former chef Craig Strong. Voltaggio presents a collection of small plates, ordered from light to heavy, that blend tradition with ultramodern flourishes, highlighting local, seasonal ingredients while simultaneously embracing global influences. The recommended way to experience the cuisine is to order four courses per person (three savory, one sweet), but obviously that wouldn't be enough for moi. Given that I'd had several of the menu items at Hatchi at Breadbar just two days earlier, Chef Voltaggio prepared a special tasting menu [$110], paired with an intriguing selection of beverages chosen by Sommelier Matthew Lathan [$70].
Now the food:
1: Pacific Yellowtail, Sashimi Style | Soy-Watermelon, Sea Sponge, Smoked Egg Yolk
Here, we have a fascinating study in the interplay of sweet and savory. There was a lot going on, but the focus for me was the complex of hamachi, melon, and sea sponge (an admixture of dashi and gelatin). The yellowtail, in a sense, was a canvas; on one hand, it was kissed by the fruity essence of (compressed soy-) watermelon, with just a hint of rice, while on the other, the sponge and yolk provided a foil to an otherwise saccharine crudo, giving the whole amalgam a lingering, salty finish. Furthermore, the wasabi was instrumental in contributing a piquant tang, offsetting the gravitas of the rest of the dish. Finally, the wild rice gave things a delightful crunch, adding a bit of fun to a complex, contemplative dish.
2: Rougie Foie Gras | Grapefruit-Campari Puree, Parsnip, Soy
Upon seeing this dish, I was expecting a distinctly sweet preparation of foie, something like the cranberry gelée-topped Foie Gras Terrine at Michael Mina's XIV. Rather, it was the savoriness of the soy that stood out to me, with the bittersweet grapefruit-Campari coming only in the finish. This approach emphasized the weight, the flavor of the foie, really forcing me to examine the richness and complexities of the liver. The parsnip "bark," at the same time, added some well-placed textural variety.
3: Langoustine Tempura | Vanilla Mayo, Rice Vinegar Pickles, Tomato Seeds
Here, we have prawn, done tempura-style. The use of vanilla really emphasized the natural sweetness of the langoustine, which would've been too monolithic had it not been for the tart, tangy pickles (which had a great crunch) and "sexy tomato seeds." Both were instrumental in cutting the weight of the tempura, taking the place of tentsuyu, in a sense. I would've liked things done a bit crisper, however.
4: Pastrami Pigeon | Rye infused Jus, Brussels-Kraut, Puffed Gruyere Cheese
Apart from Saul's Pastrami (named after Saul Cooperstein, head of business development for SBE), this is Voltaggio's other signature pastrami dish. It consists of brined and marinated pigeon (Voltaggio makes it a point to emphasize pigeon, not squab) breast, crusted in spices, sliced thin. The "pastrami" is then served with puffed Gruyère, which lends an excellent weightiness to the bird, and brussels sprouts, which add a tangy vegetal component while providing a nice crunch. Finally, the pigeon is doused in a rye jus; the overall effect, which recalls the deconstructivist cuisine of Moto, is reminiscent of a Reuben sandwich.
5: Halibut Cheeks | Scrambled Cauliflower, Lemongrass-Scallion Froth
Taken from near the head, halibut cheeks are distinct from other cuts of halibut, being sweeter, richer, and more buttery. Here, I loved the cheek's flaky, supple texture and mouthwatering flavor. I would've been happy just eating the halibut by itself, but the tart notes of lemongrass elevated the dish even further, providing a fitting foil to the fish. And the cauliflower? Wonderful. A standout for me; I wanted a bigger piece!
6: Suckling Pig | Pistachio Beans, Onions, OJ, Coriander
A suckling pig is a young hog that's only been fed with its mother's milk, and the example here was arguably my favorite course of the night. It was immensely flavorful, as expected, with a tender, fatty consistency to boot, heightened by the sweetness of cipollini onion. The key though was the cilantro, which effectively cut the gravity of the pork while leaving a long, lingering finish of coriander on my palate. I also appreciated the pistachio, which added a nutty, crunchy element to the dish.
7: Lamb Chop Confit | Vadouvan, Pickled Tongue, Eggplant-Raisin, Fresh Hummus
Vadouvan is a spice blend commonly used in Indian cookery. Its application here was subtle, but profound, and upon tasting the dish, I instantly recalled the sensation of eating a lamb curry. However, further layers of complexity were provided by the eggplant-raisin, which gave the lamb a sweet-smoky complement, and the sprouts, which provided a bracing tang that tempered the weight of the meat. Excellent.
8: Warm Peach Cobbler | Coconut Streusel, Thai Basil, Brown Butter Sorbet
A peach cobbler is basically a baked amalgamation of peach and batter, but that's only half of the equation here. What made this really work for me were the basil seeds, which lent a pungent, minty tinge to the dish, forming a great interplay with the sugary peach. The sorbet, meanwhile, added depth and a nutty potency to the dessert, while the coconut made itself known on the finish. Very nice.
9: Chocolate-Vanilla | Baked Honey, Avocado Ice Cream, Lime
The meal proper ended with a rather innocuous-sounding "Chocolate-Vanilla." And indeed, the chocolate, and the vanilla, were fairly standard preparations. The focus here for me, thus, was strictly on the avocado ice cream. Tasting somewhat like a smooth, mild, cool guacamole, the avocado was a tad disconcerting at first I'll admit. Once it settled in though, I began to appreciate its lush, vegetal, nutty flavor and how it balanced the sweetness of the chocolate (especially when taken in concert with the mint-tarragon sauce). The baked honey crisp, meanwhile, mixed things up texturally.
At Hatchi, I wrote that service left something to be desired, so I'm glad that I was able to experience Voltaggio's cuisine in an environment where it wasn't a detractor. Coordinated by Robert Hartstein, service was nearly faultless, and certainly up to the level that I expected of The Dining Room. As for the food, Voltaggio's new menu is clearly a breath of fresh air, daring but not over-the-top, an inventive blend of traditional and modern, of the foreign and the familiar. Based on this experience, I think that The Dining Room is well on its way to becoming one of the most exciting restaurants in greater LA, and I look forward to what Voltaggio and his team have in store.
Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/2009/08/dini...
Chowhound Post
Hatchi at Breadbar with Michael Voltaggio
Jennifer, where do you work? I'll be there next week, so come by and say hi!
Chowhound Post
Hatchi at Breadbar with Michael Voltaggio
Thanks Lizziee, I just read your post, and good job yourself! Will you be there next week?
Chowhound Post
Hatchi at Breadbar with Michael Voltaggio
Given the smashing success of Ludo Bites, it was inevitable that Breadbar would institute other such "pop-up-style" events. Hatchi, a collaboration between Breadbar and Noriyuki Sugie (progenitor of Crudobar and Bentobar), is a prime example. Billed with the tagline "8 Plates at 8 Dollars," Hatchi is a series of dinners that brings an up-and-coming guest chef into Breadbar's kitchens to prepare an original, one-off, one-night-only collection of eight dishes, priced at $8 each. Diners can chose as few or as many dishes and they'd like, creating their own "tasting menu," in a sense. The Series debuted on June 25 with Chef Debbie Lee of The Next Food Network Star, which I unfortunately missed. Given that the second guest chef would be none other than Michael Voltaggio, I made sure to make my reservation early this time around. Following Voltaggio are chefs Roberto Cortez (August 6), Remi Lauvand (September 24), and Eda Vesterman (October 29).
The timing of Voltaggio's performance couldn't have been better. As we all know, in addition to being a contestant on the new season of Top Chef, Voltaggio recently became the head chef at The Dining Room at The Langham in Pasadena. Prior, he was, of course, the Chef de Cuisine at José Andrés' much-lauded The Bazaar/Saam, where he earned that infamous four-star review from Sherry Irene Virbila. Voltaggio's style blends contemporary American foundations with a smattering of ultramodern techniques (some of which veer toward molecular), in the process presenting familiar flavors in new and inventive ways. I'd experienced his cooking before at Saam, so I was very curious as to what he'd come up with here, unencumbered by the penumbra of Andrés' shadow.
Voltaggio's menu for the night was dubbed "An Experience of Texture and Flavor: An Artistic Series of Small Plates Inspired by My Life as a Cook." And now, the food:
1: Artichokes "Barigoule" | Salmon Belly, Philadelphia Cheese, Smoked Salmon Roe
Dinner began with Voltaggio's take on barigoule, a classic Provençal dish of braised artichokes in a light white wine nage. I started with the salmon, a heavy, oily portion that was prototypical belly. It was quite delicious on its own, but its savory, briny flavor was heightened by the salty, smoky ikura, while the "cream cheese" added a palpable weight to the fish. The key, thus, was indeed the artichokes, which were possessing of a distinctive tang that effectively balanced the gravity of the salmon. A pleasing start to the meal.
2: Japanese Tomato Tartare | Green Almonds, Parmesan "Overeasy", Tapenade Powders
Upon cursory glance, one could've mistaken this dish for a classic beef tartare, topped with the requisite egg; such a thought would be selling the Chef's whimsy short however. Rather, Voltaggio substitutes tomato for meat, and cheese for egg--a beef tartare fit for a (lacto-) vegetarian, in a sense. I first tasted the tartare sans "egg," and found it actually not dissimilar from a classic insalata Caprese in sapor. Adding the Parmesan elevated the richness of the dish, while the green almonds provided a pleasing tart nuttiness, completing the experience. I was initially concerned that the tapenade would be overwhelming, but rather, it provided merely a subtle note of olive on the finish.
3: Hamachi Crudo | Smoked Egg Yolk, Sea Sponge, Watermelon, Wild Rice
Here, we have a fascinating study in the interplay of sweet and savory. There was a lot going on, but the focus for me was the complex of hamachi, melon, and sea sponge. The yellowtail, in a sense, was a canvas; on one hand, it was kissed by the fruity essence of watermelon, with just a hint of rice, while on the other, the sponge and yolk provided a foil to an otherwise saccharine crudo, giving the whole amalgam a lingering, salty finish. Furthermore, the wasabi was instrumental in contributing a piquant tang, offsetting the gravitas of the rest of the dish. Finally, the wild rice gave things a delightful crunch, adding a bit of fun to a complex, contemplative dish.
4: Veal Sweetbread | Poached Egg, Pea Consomme, Coffee-Cardamom Soil
Taking the sweetbreads alone, I found them firm but creamy, immensely flavorful, yet not overwhelming, not gamy. Combining the coffee-cardamom "soil" added a marked bittersweet component that I quite liked, balancing the momentousness of the sweetbreads. For me, what made this course though was the egg, cooked at 140°F according to our server (to ensure consistency between yolk and white). The result was a creamy contrast, a divine element that simply brought even more depth, even more breadth to the sweetbreads, revealing a previously latent side to them that I found particularly enjoyable. Very nice.
5: Crispy Chicken Thigh | Cuttlefish, Green Garlic, Sweet and Sour Mushrooms
I usually eschew chicken on restaurant menus, viewing the bird as bland, boring, but this course went a long way in challenging that perception. Alone, the chicken was excellent--juicy, flavorful, with a delectably crisp skin--easily one of the best incarnations I've had. What took it to the next level for me was the combination of cuttlefish and green garlic, which lent a fantastic, light, bright brininess that went surprisingly well with the bird. The 'shrooms, meanwhile, gave everything a pointed earthiness, steeped in the acerbic tang of sweet and sour. My favorite course of the night.
6: Wagyu Beef | Short Rib, Saul's Pastrami, Tamarind, Broccoli Textures, Horseradish "Styrofoam"
Though broccoli may be the bane for some, I've always had a fondness for it. Here, the veggie was presented in three forms: thinly-sliced stalks, purée, and charred florets--a fancy broccoli and beef, thus. As for the beef, it was presented in short rib and pastrami form, the pastrami being my preferred variant, with a lean beefy flavor accented by lovely peppery notes and a bit of sweetness from the tamarind. The short rib, meanwhile, was similarly flavorful, but a bit tougher than I expected for Wagyu. In any case, the florets tended to emphasize the savory nature of the meat (a bit disconcerting, actually), but the best part for me was the interaction between the beef and the crisp, light broccoli stalks. For one of my dining companions, the best dish in the series.
7: Miso Cake | Jasmine "Rice Cream", Strawberry, Yuzu
Eating this, I couldn't help but think of Frosted Flakes with strawberries! The most interesting element here, clearly, was the "rice cream," an ice cream with a distinct sweet, ricey flavor that recalled Ludo's Sushi Rice Ice Cream. It served a similar role here, providing a foil to the sugary sweetness of the berries. Our thoughts were mixed regarding the strip of coagulated strawberry, which had the consistency of ham, along with a bit of apparent savoriness as well--one of my dining companions likened it to a Fruit Roll-Up.
8: Fool's Gold | Hazelnut Praline, Salty Caramel, Nitro Coffee Mousse
According to one of my dining companions, this tasted like a Ferrero Rocher candy! I can see where he was going with that. The presence of hazelnut was quite pronounced, too much so for me, in fact; I would've appreciated the chocolate taking on a more apparent role. Nevertheless, the dessert was still enjoyable, and I applaud the use of a salted caramel here, as well as the nitro coffee mousse, which was indescribably cold, light, and airy, almost like a meringue.
For me, Hatchi was nearly an unmitigated success. I love the idea, the concept, and food-wise, execution was almost spot-on. Service, however, left something to be desired; given the venue though, I'm willing to overlook the service foibles, based on the strength of everything else. I've already made reservations for next week's dinner with Roberto Cortez, and I can't wait.
More importantly, I was able to get a taste of what Voltaggio is capable of, by himself, sans the sway of our favorite Spanish chef. There's a lot of potential methinks, and I'm planning to visit The Dining Room this weekend, to see Voltaggio in his natural environment. Stay tuned.
Did anyone else attend the event?
Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/2009/07/hatc...
Chowhound Post
Bar Charlie: The Best Restaurant in Vegas That Nobody Knows About
Nicely put. Interestingly, when we dined at Bar Charlie, there was another couple who returned after dining there the night before; they were just so impressed that they felt compelled to come back.
Chowhound Post
Las Vegas' Dearest Degustation: The Full 16 Courses at Joël Robuchon
Thanks! I've seen your Robuchon photos on Myspace, and they seemed to have turned out quite well. Do let us know how your October visit turns out.
Chowhound Post
Las Vegas' Dearest Degustation: The Full 16 Courses at Joël Robuchon
Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/2009/06/joel...
My previous meal at Joël Robuchon was simply epic, one of my best ever, so it seemed fitting to cap off a Vegas food trip (which saw the likes of Guy Savoy, L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, and Bar Charlie) with a return visit.
As a result of the economy (and also in response to the summer season, according to Chef Le Tohic), Joël Robuchon now offers prix fix menus starting from a previously unheard of $89 per person, rising to $195. Of course, for hardcore gluttons such as myself, the $385, 16-course degustation is still available, as follows:
1: Le Caviar Osciètre | en fine gelée de corail anisée, servie en surprise
Ah Champagne and caviar...could there be a more fitting start to a meal at Robuchon? Presented with a tin filled level with the tiny black pearls, I first tried a few globules alone. Briny, crisp, a bit nutty--they tasted as they should. Breaking through the layer of roe revealed the "surprise:" dungeness crab in a gelée of lobster coral and fennel cream. Coral refers to the richly-flavored eggs of lobster, and here it imbued the dish with the essence of the crustacean, while the crab provided a great sweetness that balanced out the saltiness of the caviar. A great way to kick off the evening.
2: La Tomate | en salade, huile d’olive au basilic, tomate et mozzarella en gelée
Initially, I wasn't too excited about this course. Reading the description on the menu, I thought that the dish would be a pretty conventional insalata Caprese--I should've given the kitchen more credit! On the left was a thick slice of tomato, marinated in basil-infused olive oil and topped with basil, balsamic, and salt. Next to it was an intriguing-looking plate: a clear tomato gelée speckled with spots of mozzarella, with alternating points of basil and tomato purées; I can just imagine a young chef back in the kitchen charged solely with the onerous task of dotting the gelée! Though I was instructed to eat everything together, I first tried the tomato by itself, which was extraordinarily juicy, with a refreshing tomato flavor leading to hints of basil then olive oil. Now, with everything taken together in one bite, the effect was almost exactly like that of a Caprese, though a bit lighter. The "salad" thus didn't break any barriers with regard to taste, but rather was a reimagination of the classic using different textures, techniques, and presentation (arguably a deconstructivist approach).
3a: Les Asperges | un blanc-manger aux substances d’agrumes
The "Les Asperges" course actually comprises three mini-courses. The first was asparagus over a blancmange and tomato coulis, with citrus oil. The relish of the asparagus was complemented, emboldened by the coulis, whilst the panna cotta added a heaviness to the dish that tempered the vegetable.
3b: Les Asperges | brouillarde crémeuse dans une voilette de pain doré
Next was asparagus with scrambled eggs, in a golden French toast crust. Here, the bite of asparagus was apparent at first, but was balanced by the creaminess of the eggs. The crust, meanwhile, added a fantastic texture element.
3c: Les Asperges | royale tremblotante de morille au vin d’Arbois
Clearly, they saved the best for last: asparagus and morel mushrooms royale with vin jaune (yellow wine) from Arbois. I knew this was going to be good just from the aroma, a heady bouquet permeated with the earthiness of morel and just a hint of asparagus tang. The wine-morel complex, with its nutty smokiness, was fantastic, and formed the perfect counterpoint to the asparagus, which took on a more supporting role here. Powerful, profound, a standout of the meal--I wanted a bigger bowl!
4: La Grenouille | la cuisse en fritot à la purée aillée et au coulis de persil
This rather gnarly looking thing was a crispy frog leg fritter, accompanied by young garlic shoot purée and parsley coulis, along with tempura'd watercress and soy bean. This is one of Robuchon's signature dishes, and I can see why. The frog leg was simply one of the most flavorful bites I've had in recent memory, and its crispy fried shell provided an absolutely wondrous texture contrast, and also gave the dish a lingering bready finish. The sauces added some further interest, but were unnecessary--the frog was delicious on its own. Give me a whole bucket of these please!
5a: Les Crustacés | la langoustine truffée et cuite en ravioli a l’émincé de chou vert
Another set of three mini-courses began with a plump raviolo stuffed with langoustine, in a foie gras and truffle sauce, paired with chopped Savoy cabbage in a beurre blanc. The use of truffle and foie gras provided a regal complement to the langoustine, but didn't allow enough of the langoustine's natural flavor to shine through. The cabbage, meanwhile, added a great, crisp textural contrast and lightened the rather rich dish. While tasty, it wasn't as strong as the version I had on my previous visit.
5b: Les Crustacés | le homard rôti au curry et fines graines de chou fleur
Next was roasted lobster with green curry, over a lemongrass couscous with cauliflower. The use of lemon grass and cauliflower resulted in a pleasing contrast to the lobster, giving it a vegetal and slightly spicy tang. However, the crustacean was overdone for me, lacking in its signature crispness and snap.
5c: Les Crustacés | l’oursin a la purée de pomme de terre au café « Blue Mountain » torréfié
Though I have uni often in Japanese cuisine, the uni here was done in a way that I would've never imagined. It was served on a bed of mashed potato with roasted Blue Mountain coffee beans (one of the priciest coffees in the world, from Jamaica). I was afraid that the coffee would simply dominate the sea urchin, but it was surprisingly mild. Rather, the potato was the key here. Its creamy consistency blended seamlessly with the uni, while tempering the urchin's sweet brininess.
6: Les Petits Pois | en fin velouté rafraîchi à la menthe poivrée sur un voile d’oignon doux
Here we have a light pea velouté with peppermint, over smoked ham and espelette, topped with a delicate onion foam. Upon tasting this soup, I first noted an intense nose of onion, followed by the clear essence of pea, finishing with a subtle yet lingering hint of mint. The ham, in the meantime, provided a strong savoriness that balanced the refreshing nature of the dish. What was most interesting here though was the interplay between pea and peppermint. Pea has an inherent tanginess to it, and that bracing sensation was handed over seamlessly to the mint; it was a fascinating sensation--simple, yet brilliant. This was easily one of my favorite courses, and the second outstanding pea dish of the trip, along with "Tout Petits Pois" at Guy Savoy.
7: L’Os à Moelle | garni d’un ragout de légumes aux éclats de maïs et gingembre
We now move to the more substantial courses, with the first being bone marrow and sweetbreads, with vegetable ragout, corn, creamed corn, popcorn, and ginger cream. Upon seeing this dish, I was afraid that it'd be too heavy, too unctuous (as marrow tends to be). As luck would have it, my fears were unfounded. In addition to marrow, the bone was also filled with creamed corn; now, creamed corn is typically a somewhat heavy item, but here, it effectively, and surprisingly, cut the gravitas of the marrow superbly, even adding a bit of sweetness in the process. However, the star of the show was the sweetbreads, which were immensely flavorful and done to a firm, yet not crispy, texture. The popcorn was a fun touch that provided some levity and whimsy, while adding a bit of crunch. Easily the best bone marrow dish I've had yet.
8: Le Bar | poêlé à la citronnelle avec une étuvée de jeunes poireaux
The first and only fish dish of the night was this pan-fried sea bass from Brittany with lemon grass foam and stewed baby leeks, tomato, and asparagus. The flesh of the bass was tender, flaky, and mild, about everything I could ask for. The use of lemon grass resulted in a distinctly Thai-tinged flavor, while the veggies made for a light contrast and an overall zesty, piquant dish with an Asian flair.
9: Le Veau | en côte cuit au plat avec un gel d’herbes fraîches et une mêlée de courgette au amandes
Veal has always been somewhat of a bane of mine, as I've consistently found it rather bland and indistinctive. I was thus curious as to what Robuchon would do with it. This was a sautéed veal chop with an herb gelée, zucchini-fresh almond "roulade," and veal reduction. I'm glad to report that this was one of the better veals I've had. The meat itself was quite flavorful indeed, while the gelée provided an herbaceous, mitigating contrast. The best part, though, was the amalgam of zucchini and almond, which simultaneous added a light vegetal flavor, a sharp nuttiness, and a delightful crunch to the dish.
10: Les Racines Maraîchères | coulerus de saison mêlées d'une semoule de blé parfumé à l’huile d’Argan
After a heavy dish like the veal, I was grateful for a something like this stew of Spring root vegetables with Argan oil couscous. Argan oil is a rare oil made from kernels of the argan, a tree endemic to parts of Morocco and Algeria. It was thus the perfect oil for this North African-inspired dish, cooked and served, of course, in a tagine. The veggies had a great freshness and crispness to them, as well as a bracing bitterness that complemented the mild couscous. Deceptively simple, yet uncommonly intense--very good.
11: La Fraise | confite au sirop de citron vert, rafraîchi au sorbet Tequila
Moving on to desserts, we begin with a bowl of strawberry confit infused with lime syrup, paired with a tequila sorbet, and topped with a tuile. As you'd expect, the strawberry compote by itself was quite intense indeed, saturated with the cloying sweetness of the berry, yet tempered by the sourness of the lime. The tequila, on the other hand, made for a rather refreshing finish, tinged with an alcoholic tang.
12: Le Chocolat | aux noix de Pecan, onctuosite au gianduja
With the fruit-based dessert dispensed with, it was time for chocolate: a Nyangbo chocolate cake with pecan and light gianduja cream. Nyangbo is a chocolate from producer Valrhona, made from beans grown in the African country of Ghana. It had a complex bittersweet flavor along with a subtle spiciness that paired very well with the sweet, nutty gianduja. This was a nice combination of creamy and crunchy consistencies, and actually reminded of a similar cake I had at Fifth Floor in San Francisco.
Though a superb meal, this experience at Robuchon didn't quite live up to the admittedly lofty standards of my last visit. Unfortunately, I was partly to blame for this. You see, I had a 9:30 flight out of McCarran, and thus had to leave the restaurant by 8:00, in order to catch a taxi to the airport. I arrived right at opening, 5:30, to maximize my time, but even that wasn't enough. By the end of it, I was basically eating as fast as I could, not really savoring each bite. I must give credit to the staff--I mentioned my limitation, and they were very accommodating, getting me out almost exactly at 8:00. Chef Le Tohic even came out to chat for a few minutes. Bottom line: don't cram a 4-hour meal into 2.5 hours. That being said, I do want to return to dine here, when I can afford a more leisurely pace. Monsieur Robuchon: just don't retire again before I do!
Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/2009/06/joel...
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Bar Charlie: The Best Restaurant in Vegas That Nobody Knows About
Fascinating. Thanks for that insight. On one hand, it pains me a bit that they have to stoop to that level. On the other, perhaps any exposure is good exposure?
Chowhound Post
Bar Charlie: The Best Restaurant in Vegas That Nobody Knows About
Certainly, we here on CH are aware of the strength of Bar Charlie; I was thinking more along the lines of the "general public" being unaware. During my visit, the place never had more than a third of the seats filled, and by the end of the night, we were the only ones left (and that includes Restaurant Charlie). I hope that that's not the situation every day. If so, I can't imagine that they turn a profit. I'd like to try Restaurant Charlie on my next visit to the City, so I sincerely hope that the rumors I've heard of the place shutting down are just that, rumors.
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Discovering L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon: Le Menu Decouverte
Thanks! The photos didn't come out quite as good as I'd hoped for, due to the inconsistent lighting. Having both strong natural and ambient light was messing with my white balance. But yes, I'm starting to use a DSLR--not as convenient, but I think that the results are worth it.
Chowhound Post
Bar Charlie: The Best Restaurant in Vegas That Nobody Knows About
Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/2009/06/bar-...
Ah Charlie Trotter, unquestionably one of the country's leading chefs, one who has undoubtedly helped shape the landscape that is modern American cuisine--all this he has accomplished within the walls of his eponymous Chicago eatery, which I'd visited less than a month prior to this meal. Unlike many other star chefs, Trotter, for the most part, hasn't succumbed to the ills of empire building, with this Las Vegas outpost being his first venture outside of the Windy City...or is it?
That's what I thought, until I did a bit more research: it turns out that Trotter had been to the desert already. Way back in 1994, before the era of food bloggers, before the Internet even, before my time, clearly, Trotter opened a clone of the original Chicago restaurant at the MGM Grand (which itself opened in late 1993). The 68-seat Charlie Trotter's, Las Vegas was constructed at a cost estimated at $2-3 million, and was designed specifically to cater to MGM's high roller crowd; it eventually opened up to the public as well. Helming the kitchen was Guillermo Tellez, sous chef at the Chicago restaurant.
The problem was that Charlie Trotter's was ahead of its time. It was 1994; Clinton had just taken office; there were no celebrity chefs in Vegas, but 99-cent shrimp cocktails. From Chicago, Trotter brought along his food, but also its associated prix fix format (a degustation for $85 and a vegetable alternative for $65), with only one seating per night. Sin City tourists, the whales specifically, weren't ready for that. As a result, the restaurant suffered financially, and hotel management pushed Trotter and company to compromise their vision, reportedly calling for the addition of "spaghetti and meatballs" to the menu. This clash eventually led to the hotel buying out the remaining 8.5 years of Trotter's contract; Trotter himself, I've read, made out quite well in the deal.
Now here were are, 15 years later. The City has come of age, gastronomically speaking at least. As for Trotter, his approach this time around is more yielding, more in line to the Vegas M.O.: diners are no longer bound by the vagaries of a tasting menu; à la carte is an appealing option, and you can be in and out in 30 minutes. Restaurant Charlie is not a mere carbon copy of the original; rather, it's a more casual, more seafood-focused affair. Bar Charlie, Trotter’s restaurant-within-a-restaurant, goes further down that road, and even looks the part of a sushi bar. The cuisine here is unabashedly Japanese-inspired, and is advertised as a kaiseki-style experience, a fusing of Trotter's modern American approach with a Japanese aesthetic. The chef de cuisine is Hiroo Nagahara (I've also seen it as Hiroo Nagana), a college physics major who was handpicked by Trotter for his vision, his artistry. And just like the kitchen back home, Nagahara and his team pride themselves on never serving the same dish twice to a guest--the question is: after this meal, would I ever want to go back?
The preferred method of dining is to choose a 5-, 8-, or 14-course "kaiseki" menu. However, many of the degustation items are also available individually, as are various sushi items (these would've been interesting to try). We went for the 14-course [$250], naturally, with a couple supplements:
1: Tai with Black Grapes & Celery
Kicking things off was a tai snapper with black grapes, celery, grape must, and pickled grapes. The tai was a mild fish with a great firm, crisp texture. The sweet-sour sapor of the various forms of grape was superb in drawing out the character of the tai, deftly balancing the elements of saccharine, tart, and bitter. Meanwhile, the celery root provided a lovely crunchy texture contrast. This was a strong start and an auspicious foreshadowing of things to come.
2: Shime Saba with Lavender & Mitsuba
Shime saba is a variety of marinated mackerel, and here it was presented with yuzu, grapefruit zest, amazake flan, mitsuba, lavender, ginger, and puffed rice. Mackerel is typically a very "fishy" fish, and thus the tanginess of its various accoutrements was instrumental in balancing it out, leaving a lingering citrus finish on my palate. This sour was balanced by sweet as well (thanks in part to the amazake, a sweet drink made from fermented rice), taking the mackerel to another level. At the same time, the puffed rice was an absolutely fantastic textural element, adding a light crispness to the entire dish.
3: Santa Barbara Sweet Shrimp
Next was Santa Barbara amaebi, or sweet shrimp, with tarragon foam, raspberry, and crème fraîche, all in a raspberry-lobster consommé. The pairing of shrimp with the tartness of the berry was a bit jarring at first, but this initial disconcerting feeling eventually settled into place. The amaebi's natural brininess was there, but subtle, while the berry linked up with the shrimp's inherent sweetness. And the crispy heads? Sublime--as good and flavorful as those from just about any dedicated sushi joint.
4: Mediterranean Blue Fin Tuna Tartare with Hijiki Seaweed & Daikon
When I took a look at this dish, I thought we were getting some sort of tuna sorbet! The quenelle of bluefin really was just about the finest, softest tartare I'd ever eaten; it was paired with daikon, fermented daikon, daikon Greek yogurt, battera kombu (kelp), and hijiki (a type of seaweed). The tuna itself tasted of cucumber and soy, a very mild amalgam that went beautifully with the briny seaweed, as well as the slightly sweet-nutty black sesame sauce. Very nice.
5: Mediterranean Blue Fin Tuna with Umeboshi & Hamachi Belly
The tartare was followed up with another tuna dish, this time a roulade of tuna slow-poached at 43°F, with umeboshi (a pickled fruit) cake, hamachi sashimi, in a nashi-umeboshi sauce, finished with cherry blossom ice. The akami was tasty enough, but the star of the show was the hamachi, which was just about the densest, richest version I've had, with a delectably salty finish that played nicely with the dish's tangy, grassy accompaniments.
6: Tasmanian Ocean Trout with Pearled Barley & Fennel
There was a lot happening on the plate here, a seemingly disparate mélange of ingredients: trout belly, ikura, fish stock and barley miso raviolo, fish scrap-saikyo miso sorbet, fennel purée, and crispy fried trout skin. By far the most intriguing item was the sorbet, which was about as close as I've gotten to fish ice cream! Trust me, it tasted better than it sounds. It was sweet, thanks to the saikyo miso, but with a distinctly fishy tinge to it; it went wonderfully with the salty, crunchy trout skin. The trout was also quite tasty, with an intrinsic subtle sugariness and a salty finish; it was nicely balanced by the briny ikura (salmon roe) and surprisingly, by the nuttiness of the barley.
7: Japanese Big Fin Squid with Lemon & Kanzuri Carrots
The centerpiece of this dish was a squid "egg" made with squid, shrimp, and lemon curd. Also present were sous vide squid wings, tempura squid body, carrot sauce, and pickled kanzuri carrot. I started with the "egg," which had an absolutely multifaceted texture, with a flavor dominated by squid on the attack, but finishing with the tanginess of lemon. I next had the wings, which were just about the most tender cuts of squid I've ever eaten--I wanted bigger pieces! My favorite, though, was the tempura, which was simultaneously crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, with delightfully salty flavor that went superbly with the kanzuri (a type of spice made from chili pepper).
8: Black Bean Tofu with Beets & Tokyo Scallions
The lone vegetarian course of the night, we have here housemade black bean tofu, in a fermented beet consommé, with honshimeji mushroom. The tofu was mild at first, but gradually displayed a fantastic richness and depth of flavor, much more than typical tofu, and possessed a spicy finish to boot. The crisp, flavorful skin was particularly appealing. The addition of whole black beans provided a great textural complexity, as did the crunchy homshimejis, which also gave the dish a sweet nuttiness. I was skeptical at first, but this may very well have been the best tofu I've ever had.
9: Diver Sea Scallop with Bloomsdale Spinach & Japanese Turnip
I was looking forward to this one: scallop, spinach, braised daikon, kombu, coffee-cherry sauce, and yes, pliable chocolate. The first test was to eat the scallop alone; it actually was extraordinary flavorful, with a superb sweetness accented by its perfectly caramelized surface--it easily stood on its own. I then made my way through the various accoutrements, and they all went very well (including that cube, which was daikon wrapped in spinach), before ending with chocolate. Now I don't think I've ever paired scallop with chocolate, so I was a bit wary here. I'm happy to report that the pairing went surprisingly well. The sugariness of the chocolate paired up deftly with the mollusk's natural sweetness, and the admixture almost had a spicy flavor to it.
Supplement: Oysters with Horseradish & Ponzu
At this point in the meal, my dining companion was so ecstatic about how good all the dishes were turning out that she decided that we had to try to get everything on the menu (something that was completely unexpected by me!), hence these oysters. They were simply prepared, and possessed a distinct sweet brininess by themselves, with a long, lingering finish. They came served with a trio of accompaniments: diced cucumber, sherry vinaigrette ponzu, and horseradish. The ponzu and horseradish were tangy and spicy respectively, and thus effectively cut the strength of the mollusks. The cucumber, on the other hand, was milder, but provided a fantastic crunchy consistency to balance the soft, slimy oysters. Overall, a very strong presentation.
Supplement: Yakitori Grilled Maine Day Boat Lobster & Lemongrass
Our next supplement was a preparation of lobster, with lemongrass-yellow curry dressing, basil oil, lotus root, and coconut foam. Though the claw was a bit overdone, the tail had a just about perfect, crisp consistency. The natural sweetness of lobster was a great foil to the lemon grass, curry, and coconut elements in this dish, which gave the food a decidedly Thai bent. The lotus root--crisp, savory, fantastic.
10: Braised Kurobuta Pork Belly with Braised Red Cabbage & Green Curry
With the string of seafood-based successes, both my dining companion and I were predicting that the kitchen would falter when it came to proper meat, especially something as heavy as pork belly. Here, it was braised with hibiscus, and served with green curry, coconut, tomatillo, kaffir lime oil, Thai basil, cilantro, shiso, onion, and jalapeño (whew!). I first cut a piece of the belly by itself, and noted that it oozed oil upon being pierced by my knife. Upon tasting, I noted a delicious bacon-like flavor intermixed with a delightful smoky char--this was the real deal. I then "dragged it through the garden," trying the pork with its various veggie concomitants. The result: fantastic; the weight of the pork was countered so masterfully, so adeptly; pork belly was transformed into a light, blithe dish. Probably the best pork belly I've experienced yet.
11: Braised Miyazaki Wagyu Short Rib
Could lightning strike twice? Indeed it did. Braised beef short rib certainly competes with pork belly in terms of gravitas, but once again, the kitchen managed to temper the meat's heaviness to great effect. The beef itself had an inherent delicate sweetness to it, with a lovely herbal tang as well. Texturally, it was tender, but not too tender; it still had a nice chew to it, and the tough, charred bits mixed things up as well. The char also provided a lovely smokiness to the dish, but the key was the mustard foam. Its peppery tang was instrumental in offsetting the richness of the beef. Again, very, very good.
Intermezzo: Hibiscus Granita, Sour Yogurt Sorbet
With dessert upon us, we were given this small palate cleanser, consisting of a hibiscus granité, topped with a sour yogurt sorbet, served with peach, golden raspberry (which my dining companion was particularly fond of), blackberry, blueberry, and raspberry. The berries were scrumptious, and were tempered somewhat by the tart yogurt.
12: Basil Semifreddo with Strawberries & Olive Oil Ice Cream
Scott from the pastry team explained to us that the strawberries used here were from Harry's Berries, a purveyor from Southern California; I'd encountered their strawberries before at Providence. In any case, here they were paired, in sliced and sorbet forms, with basil and olive oil. The olive oil ice cream was especially interesting, with a rather heavy palate, followed by a lingering savory finish. The basil semifreddo and basil oil, meanwhile, provided a fresh tanginess that offset the juicy sweetness of the berries. Like many of the things we tried tonight, the various items didn't seem like they'd work together, but amazingly, they did.
13: Chamomile-Stewed Rhubarb
Sort of a mini-dessert, this was rhubarb stewed in chamomile, with hemp, honey, and coriander--sweet at first, but with a tangy finish and a bit of savoriness from the tuile as well.
14: Dark Chocolate with Banana & Roasted Hazelnut
Flourless dark chocolate cake, banana sorbet, sherry vinegar gastrique, chai foam, banana chip. As a testament to the dessert's prowess, my dining companion, who doesn't like bananas, adored this. The chocolate was lovely, as expected, but the banana stole the show. It really tempered the richness of the cake, while imbuing the senses with the very essence of banana, creating a dessert that was all at once rich, decadent, fruity, yet light.
No question: Bar Charlie exceeded my expectations, by a lot. The fusing of American and Japanese approaches really worked near flawlessly I thought, with bold, light but forceful, focused flavors that exploded on to my palate. My dining companion even went as far as to say that there were no misses whatsoever--quite a lofty accomplishment indeed, and I may even agree with her (all dishes were tasty, but some dishes were more tasty than others). In fact, I liked this better than the original, but don't tell Charlie that! It really is one of the best restaurants in Las Vegas, which nobody knows about. Let's just hope that Restaurant and Bar Charlie last longer than Trotter's previous Vegas venture.
Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/2009/06/bar-...
