poncho's Profile
Best Bouillabaisse in Paris
A bourride at Le Sud in the 17th is the closest I can think of.
Attire in Paris Restaurants
Sometimes attire doesn't matter at all. I had lunch at a 2 star a couple of years back. The two fellows at the next table were in jeans and t-shirts, and honestly hadn't shaven in a day or two. However it didn't seem to bother the restaurant staff. They received excellent service and attention. Although I suspect that might not have been the case had it been someone other than Jean Reno and Luc Besson.
There were in fact about 4 or 5 waiters constantly hovering near them, competing to fill water glasses when they got to 1/2 full, etc. Whereas we received the worst service I've ever had in a nice restaurant. We actually received our aperatifs AFTER the entrees and plats were served. It was so bad that it was comical.
But I've never been back to the Astor since (they not surprisingly lost their Michelin stars).
Restaurants in the 14th
L'opportun (get the onglet de veau). Shame about the service though
wanted: excellent food near de gaulle airport
My guess is that you're out of luck. You've got time to get into Paris with the RER, but "excellent breakfast" is a phrase that doesn't translate readily into French.
Hong Kong Dining Recs!!! :)
Kenito,
Are these fishing village experiences something a non-chinese speaker can navigate? I don't imagine the fishermen speak english, although I have no problem pointing and pantomiming. How about the restaurant. I'd be ok with letting them decide how to prepare our purchases, but I'd hate to hand then a fish hand have them stare at me, waiting for me to tell them how I'd like it prepared.
What to make with Duck Confit?
pommes sarladaises- potato disks the size and thickness of 3 quarters, cooked in the goose fat with garlic and parsley.
shopping for coarse salt and salmon
That's funny. Here in Paris I get my gravlax ingredients at the Chinese supermarket because it's always cheaper and fresher than elsewhere.
Best Dim Sum in Hong Kong
Seconded. I'm going to Hong Kong in a month, and other than 5 or 6 different items, I don't know the names.
This will allow me to know what I'm looking at or order what I want. Plus now when i eat dim sum in London, Paris, or the US, the name of the same thing is always different, even in the same language because either the translation is different (one restaurant calls it paté de navet, another "galette de navet" i.e. fried turnip cakes), or because the translator didn't know the name for the food in that language. This way, wherever I am, I can order lo bak go and get what I want!
Amsterdam street food
I admit that you qualified your statement, but FEBO is gross. Try it sometime when you're not caned. I did once and it doesn't taste the same for me enow ven when leaving a coffeehouse.
Maoz however, is always good. And I'm partial to the Frites in the van at the Albert Cuyp Market.
But honestly, with all the lovely baked goods you can find to nibble on in some of the coffeeshops (even without additives), and tasty fruit juices, why eat street food unless it's 3am?
Icelandic Cool: Sjávarkjallarinn ("The Seafood Cellar") in Reykjavik, Iceland 12/06
Not able to get a table at Perlan, the weekend before Christmas their Yule table being very popular), I decided to try one of the current "hot" restaurants, Sjávarkjallarinn.
I assumed it had to be good to overcome the tricky to find location (in the windowless basement of the Tourism office.) It is known for inventive seafood based fusion cooking, boasts head chef Lárus Gunnar Jónasson, the 2004 Icelandic chef of the year and is one of the “world’s hot tables”.
The decor is in a Japanese palette- browns and blacks, and is modern/minimalist as is currently the rage in town. Being alone, I naturally got the table next to the kitchen, but that was not really a problem as I would never have to struggle to hear my dinner companion's conversation.
I ordered the chef's choice "exotic menu", which for ISK 6800 (about 70 euros) I would consider more than reasonable given Iceland's high prices.
The server first brought a small baguette with a couple of dipping sauces, ground pistachio nuts and sesame oil. A nice way to provide an assortment of palette cleansers for the diner's to choose from.
I ordered a glass of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Unfortunately, the wine list, while well balanced and not overpriced (for Iceland), had a very limited selection by the glass. The wine arrived ice cold, straight from the ice bucket. A shame because once it warmed to a drinkable temperature it was a quite nice glass. I warmed it in my hands like a brandy, until my hands were too hold to hold the glass. The wait staff noticed me warming the wine, but made no comment.
A first amuse bouche arrived. Sjávarkjallarinn puts a great deal of effort into inventive presentation of its cuisine. In this case, the smoked eel arrived in a small bocal (one of the vacuum jars used for canning of the type in which you'll find foie gras.) The smoked eel was married with dill and a teriyaki sauce. It was pure perfection in conception and execution, exactly what you would hope for from a fusion of Scandinavian and Asian food. The smoked eel, a dish that can be found in both Iceland and Japan, was perfectly cooked, tender and moist. The sweetness of the teriyaki sauce perfectly complemented the smokiness of the eel, bringing saltiness as well that served to enhance the other flavours without ever intruding. The dill announced that this was indeed a Scandinavian based cuisine. And the earthiness of the dill was a fine contrast to the sweetness of the teriyaki. The three flavours were perfectly distinct, and yet harmoniously co-exiting. As all good amuse bouches do, it left me wanting more and anxious to see what would come next.
What came next started with a bang. Three dishes were presented, a "Lobster Pick Me Up", a soft-shell crab salad, and a carpaccio of hare. I was advised to start with the lobster as it should be eaten hot.
The lobster pick me up filled a 180 gram foie gras bocal. It consisted of meaty chunks of grilled lobster, foie gras, truffles, and cauliflower fleurettes. The first bite did not disappoint. Perfectly cooked succulent lobster surprised with the strong flavours of the grill. The unctuousness of the foie gras (which had all but dissolved into the dish) mimicked the rich melted butter dripping from a classic Maine boiled lobster. Could it get any better?
The answer predictably, was no. As I made my way to the bottom of the bocal, I noticed a couple of things. The ingredients in the cup were more or less sorted into layers, lobster on top, and cauliflower on bottom. This meant that I started to loose enthusiasm for the lobster before getting to the cauliflower, and in fact, because of the constraints of the jar, couldn't really get to the cauliflower to give my palette a break. (The bread and dipping sauce really came in handy here.) The truffles were noticeable as black specks, but added nothing to the taste, a shame since truffles and foie gras and lobster is a heavenly match. With the price of truffles as it is, it's not always economically feasible to put in enough to really make a contribution, but the chef could have either used truffle oil, or the same amount of truffles, but made them into fewer but bigger pieces or slivers. Unfortunately, the cauliflower just didn't work. The texture was nice, something with a bit of crunch, but it was otherwise gratuitous, adding nothing to the dish. Where was the fusion here? A better addition would have been bamboo shoots, or kai-lan stems. Even an Asian mushroom with a bit of crunch to it would have worked nicely.
Finally, after all the lobster and cauliflower were gone, there remained a substantial amount of rich sauce/liquid in the bottom of the cup, which I proceeded to spoon up. And in the sauce I found the failings of this dish. Most of the specks of truffles were to be found in the sauce. Because of the fluid nature of the dish, the truffles for the most part just sunk to the bottom of the cup, not adhering to the lobster. Well thought I, now I'll get to taste the truffles. But it was not to be because there was another ingredient in the preparation- hot pepper. I had found the fusion, and it did not fuse.
By the time I got to the sauce and especially once I had had a few spoonfuls, the taste was overwhelmed by the heat in my mouth. While I adore spicy food and the taste of various peppers, I do not want to have spice impaired taste buds while eating truffles or subtle fusion cuisine. And unfortunately, the heat in my mouth also diminished my enjoyment of the soft-shelled crab, which has always been one of my favourite foods.
By the time I got to the crab, which had been fried tempura style, I'm afraid it had become luke-warm, not what you want from tempura. I should say at this point I glanced over at a couple at a nearby table and noticed that they had ordered the exotic menu also. The portion they had for two people was equal to the portion I had to myself. That explained why I was rapidly getting full and hadn't yet even gotten to the fish or meat courses! Half the serving size would have left me not only wanting just a bit more lobster, (instead of not wanting to see another bite of it), I would have consumed half as much of the hot pepper, and my taste buds would have just been pleasantly tingling, rather than actively distracting. I should have been warned. I don't think it would have kept me from finishing all the lobster, but I would have made other adjustments.
The flavour of the crab was acceptable, but loss of crunchiness was disappointing especially next to the crispiness of the misuna salad. The pavé of tofu added little to the dish. The uninspired dressing giving it a non-descript flavour making me wish the chef had used tempe in its place.
The hare came in 3 long strips on a rectangular volcanic plate, with a hare (also raw) maki alongside. A simple plate nicely presented (with a little pot of redcurrant confiture) and an inventive touch to substitute the hare for seafood in the maki. A nice transition to the next flight of dishes which included meat, although I think that the chef should have added something to take the place of the wasabi and soy sauce found in maki.
While chilling my hands on a second glass of “ice-wine”, the fish and meat arrived. Four pieces of fish were presented on a square plate accompanied by topinambours (Jerusalem artichokes) and a side dish of asparagus. Presented on a small hollow cubical stone with coals in a cavity, and posed on top of a grill topped by berries were 4 or 5 rare slices of reindeer.
By this time I was getting full and decided only to finish food that I found to be excellent. Unfortunately, only the topinambour and one of the fishes were savoured to the last bite. The arctic char, resembling salmon as it does, while properly cooked, lack interest. It served mainly as an excuse to indulge in some of the sweet sauce that was provided as an accompaniment. Unfortunately, fish like all other food, must be able to stand on it’s own before it can be paired with a sauce.
The crusted salt cod, a pleasant take on standard Icelandic fare, started out nicely, with the crunchy band around the fish piquing my interest. Unfortunately the cod itself was dry and uninteresting.
The haddock had a black sesame crust and the black seeds against the bright white flesh made it the most visually captivating of the quartet. It’s unfortunate that it was dry and overcooked, a sin against such a nice piece of fish, and even more so when considering that the sesame encrusted seared tuna from which it was inspired is served medium rare at the very most, and rightly so.
The plaice on the other hand, presented in a folded leaf open on the sides, was cooked to perfection, 10 seconds less and it would have been underdone. But there it was, the absolute incarnation of succulent. It made me re-evaluate this humble flatfish that finds it way into so many mediocre packages of fish and chips. And the topinambours, somewhat in vogue in French cooking as one of the “lost” old vegetables (it went out of favour after the French were forced by the Germans taking all the potatoes, to eat it instead of feeding it to animals), but reintroduced by Robuchon, Gagnaire and others, were deliciously caramelised. It made me want to rush down to the marché as soon as I got home and caramelize/confit some myself- a sure sign of a successful dish.
As for the reindeer, what can I say, it was reindeer. Maybe it was in keeping with the “exotic” theme of the menu, although in Nordic countries, reindeer is not all that exotic. I’ve had reindeer roast, reindeer steak, smoked reindeer burgers, reindeer sausage, and even have been known to cook up a nice finnbiff {reindeer stew with mushrooms, crème fraiche and juniper berries). And I’ve had better reindeer steak. Despite the heat source, the slices were not warm, and not as tender as much reindeer I’ve had.
But, as it started out well, the exotic menu ended well, with a refreshing sorbet and equally refreshing and surprising green apple soufflé, baked to perfection- sweet, sour, tangy, crunchy, succulent all in a spoonful. A nice espresso provided a bit of warmth to send me out into the cold of the night.
The chef at Sjávarkjallarinn is quite young, and it shows. That is not necessarily a bad thing. Cooking is known as a young man’s game and fusion cooking more so than other areas. And he certainly shows flashes of brilliance, as with his smoked eel amuse bouche, lobster “pick me up (when served in the proper proportion!), and green apple soufflé. But one gets the feeling that like the city itself, he’s trying too hard to be noticed, to be hip. Reykjavik is indeed cool, but it has been increasingly self-consciously striving to be the image it has constructed of itself. Now Reykjavik is trying to be as cool as its image. And as long as it’s trying to be cool, going for effect instead of substance, it will be not fully succeed at being what it wants to be and had the potential to be. It’s a shame that Jónasson ended his apprenticeship so soon. Looking at what Pascal Barbot has done at Astrance, I can’t help but think what results could be had should Jónasson pass a spell under Alain Passard at l’Arpege. Now that would BE cool!
substitution for cheddar cheese
I use Cantal. Cheddar is not that hard to find. Most larger cheese shops have it, very good quality. But it can be quite expensive. But you'll be hard pressed to find a really sharp cheddar in Paris.
Best markets for when we cook.
Paris in a Basket is a good book for learning about the markets. It's available in both French and English and even shows which days which markets are open.
If you're not on a budget, go to one of the markets that she give's 5 stars to, like in the 16th. (Raspail's good to, especially for spotting celebs on Sunday mornings.) For best quality/price, since you're in the "lower 5th", I'd go to Paris Store in the 13th.
Single guy first time in Paris
Le Relais de Venice is near you. Nice steak in mustard sauce with frites. They'll give you a second serving too. The profiteroles for dessert will put you over budget but they're worth it.
Chinese
I've found the folks at Likafo not very friendly. Fleur de Mai just up the street (59 av de Choisy) has the softshell crab with XO sauce, Boiled chicken with ginger/lemongrass sauce, more items on the wall in Chinese, plus the staff is friendly and the place has a more familial atmosphere to it.
Mussels in blackbean sauce. yummy!
A reasonably priced bistro in the 6th or the 13th?
Take care with the sangria at le Dix. It's a real hangover maker.
For a bistro, I'd suggest the Bon St Pourçain on Rue Servandoni between St Sulpice and Lux Gardens. Not fancy, just good. François is a real character and you could spot one of the famous riverains like Umberto Ecco, Daniel Auteil or Arielle Dombasle. I've haven't seen Catherine Deneuve there.
Best Pho (or other Vietnamese recs) in Paris
Pho Banh Cuon 14 on 129 Avenue de Choisy near Tolbiac is the only place I've found that makes better Pho that I do :) Pho is pretty much all they do. Avoid the temptation to go to the place next door if Pho 14 is full.
I like Bambou as they have a larger menu, so I'll go there sometimes if someone doesn't want Pho, but the Pho isn't as good there as Pho 14.
Korean in Paris
Out of the way, but if you want completely authentic korean, go to
Nam San
87 avenue de Flandre
75019 Paris
(Métro Riquet ou Crimée)
It's the only restaurant my Korean frinds go to.
Chinese in Paris?
It's very rare (impossible) to find a passable Chinese restaurant outside of the 13th or Belleville. (I've had mediocre luck at the one on rue St Jaques mentioned above). As noted they usually "specialize" in Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai, and Cambodian, all at once...
I've found an excellent indicator of quality is to check the menu for meduse (jellyfish), pattes de poulet (chicken feet) and langues de canard (duck tongues). A restaurant with those items will be chinese and not an amalgam.
Best bet for familial informal chinese is Fleur de Mai on Avenue Choisy in the 13th.
Better selection and relatively good quality is Sinorama.
There is actually a dim sum restaurant that has carts in the 1th (New Nouilleville). But the two times I was there there were so few people there that there were practically no carts, and those that did circulate just had the same stuff you could get in any traiteur asiatique.
Someone mentioned Tricotin. Just behind it in the courtyard are aquartet of restaurants. I prefer the New Hoa Khan to Tricitin, less crowded and more Chinese than French who prefer the Tricotin.
BTW, when in a restaurant in Paris and you don't want food toned down for french palates,you have to ask for the food to be prepared "comme chez vous". And repeat it a couple of times. it's the only way I've been able to get a passable Indian or Thai meal.
Paris - Former Ex Pat wondering if old haunts still around
The Buddha Bar has become a chain with branches in other cities. I didn't care for it when I went 5 or 6 years ago, so haven't been there recently.
