Jeremy M's Profile
Looking for input on first pass at Amalfi Coast eating plan!
Now that you mention it, I recall seeing that exchange about Aquapazza. The experience described is not consistent with my meals there in the past or this year. We have received good suggestions at fair prices. As has often been discussed on this Board, the price of seafood - particularly crudi and whole fish - has gone up enormously in recent years. Especially in that context, the prices at Acquapazza seem fair.
Looking for input on first pass at Amalfi Coast eating plan!
We had the rehearsal dinner for our wedding at the Lido Azzurro in May 2001, and have been back there several times since, including in May 2011 (10th anniversary trip). We love it. Their spaghetti vongole are my favorite. Wonderful selection of fresh fish, and just a lovely staff. And a great view. I've always been surprised that it has not received more attention on this board.
Looking for input on first pass at Amalfi Coast eating plan!
In Cetara, I would recommend Acquapazza. We were there for lunch in late May, and had a very nice experience.
We had a 2:30 reservation, but someone had parked stupidly just outside Atrani, resulting in a traffic jam to rival LA on a bad day. (The traffic situation along the coast is worse than ever, as budget cuts have resulted in the removal of the police who used to make nominal efforts to keep things flowing). We arrived around 3:45 and I went in essentially to apologize for missing the reservation, not expecting to be fed. I mentioned that we had been there a couple of times in the past, and they said they could make us a plate of pasta. Once we sat down - at a table next to the owner, who was having a late lunch - they brought a few other things as well.
We started with an amazing plate of crudi. Red shrimp - just fantastic, with a freshness and sweetness that is hard to find or describe - regular shrimp, local fish (Pezzogna, Nasello, Fragolino), and langostino. Great stuff.
We then had their house cured anchovies - from the bay, cured for a year in salt in a wooden barrel. (This process also yields the colatura di alici, a brown, concentrated liquid with a delicious anchovy flavor. We sampled this on bread.). After the meal, the owner showed us one of the barrels - very interesting indeed.
The pasta was incredible - paccheri alla genovese -a variation of a Neapolitan dish usually made with meat, but here with fresh tuna, sauteed with onions and carrots with a hint of nutmeg. Amazing.
The owner recommended a very nice white wine from Tramonti, just outside Ravello. Blend of falanghina, pepella, and ginestra grapes.
We had a terrific dessert - a warm cake with apples, spices, and cream, with mixed berry gelato.
All in all, a great meal, for about 130 euros, and the owner was lovely. Having recently read about a bad experience at Al Convento, this may be the better call in Cetara.
For your time in Sorrento, you might consider the Torre del Saracino, in Vico Equense. We had a very nice lunch there. They began with some very nice homemade breads and with delicious amuse bouches of asparagus soup with a pesto trapanese and seared local tuna with a fava bean pure and chicory. We then had tagliatelle with broccoli leaves, baby calamari, and sea urchin, and paccheri with sweet and sour spring onions and anchovies. For the main course, we had dentice (sea bream) with an oyster-infused cream sauce, and mixed grilled rockfish. We drank a Fiano from Paestum (Pietraincatenata by Luigi Maffini). Bill was 150 euros.
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Al Convento
Piazza San Francesco, 16, Cetara, Campania 84010, IT
Saracino
Via di fuori 47, Sarteano, Toscana 53047, IT
Rome Restaurants were left to me – Now What?
Maureen,
Have you tried Pecorino on via Galvani? Roman friends have recommended it as an alternative in Testaccio.
Thanks,
Jeremy
Recs for group dinner within easy driving distance of Preggio (Umbria)?
We stayed near Preggio several years ago, and had a very good meal at Gildo in Polgeto, on the edge of Umbertide. At that time, it was listed in the Slow Food guide. Though our experience is not recent, it is worth a try if you are in the area.
We had a terrific meal at Il Postale on the same trip.
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Il Postale
Strada Montevile 3, Perugia, Umbria 06126, IT
good eats by LUISS GC University?
Maureen - are you thinking of Da Ezio on via Chiana? I haven't been there in years, but it used to be quite good.
I also seem to remember someone posting a rave review of a place near piazza Verbano - maybe VeRoma or something like that.
Lunch/diner near Senigallia/Jesi
Friends from Arcevia give very strong recommendations to Ristorante Pongetti.
Strada Statale Adriatica Nord, 92, 60019 Senigallia Ancona, Italy
Telephone - 071 660064
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Pongetti
Cesano,Strada Statale Adriatica Nord, 94, Senigallia, Marche 60019, IT
Rome and Florence Trip Report. Rome: La Campana, Matricianella, and La Mani in Pasta. Florence: Sostanza, Nerbone, Cibreo Caffe, and Omero
Zerlina - Consistent with your view, I had a wonderful lunch at Gino and a mediocre dinner. I thought it was because at lunch I was in the midst of a group of Romans, whereas at dinner we were four Americans. What is your thinking about the lunch/dinner divide there? Best, Jeremy
PUGLIA'S SALENTO--Report of 2 dinners near Otranto and one in Lecce
I also fell in love with Puglia, Erica. Thanks so much for sharing all your experiences in such loving detail. Much appreciated!
One dinner in Martina Franca (??) or nearby; 3 dinners in or near Fasano
I would definitely stop in Polignano - lovely town and the Super Mago is really good - and would definitely stop at the Grotta for a drink at least. The place that Jen mentions sounds quite good also - though some of the Italian comments complain about the price there as well.
Yes - we ate at Cucina Casareccia (aka Le Zie) and it was excellent. We stopped there for lunch on the way from Cisternino to Leuca. It was a ridiculously hot day, and the kids were exhausted, but we had a terrific lunch. Started with an excellent antipasto of vegetables - sorry that I don't remember all the details - it was ample and delicious, and included, eggplant, zucchini, and a fava bean pure. Pastas were also excellent, all handmade. Some in the group had the classic dish with chick peas - the pasta in that one is half boiled and half fried, the latter being almost like a wonton. Quite delicious. I had orecchiete in a meat sauce with a sharp ricotta (milder than the forte, but still delicious). We drank a really nice, really cold rosato - maybe the 5 Roses by De Castris - I should take notes. We did not get the secondi - delicious looking meats, if I remember - because the kids were tired and we were hot and full.
We also returned one evening to have dinner at Alle Due Corti, which also provided a very fine meal. We tried to get into the Osteria degli Spiriti, but could never get a table.
In Lecce, we had gelato and granita at Gelateria Natale, which was the only place that could compete with the Super Mago.
One dinner in Martina Franca (??) or nearby; 3 dinners in or near Fasano
Thanks for weighing in. It's great to have multiple points of information on all these places. Best, Jeremy
One dinner in Martina Franca (??) or nearby; 3 dinners in or near Fasano
Bottom line: it's worth a visit, if only to see the amazing venue. It really is a spectacular setting, a wooden platform hanging over the Adriatic, basically inside a cave. However, the food is astronomically expensive, primi and secondi ranged from 35-55 euros, and there was relatively little, if anything, below 55 euros. I had an amatriciana made with fish (monkfish, I think) rather than pork, and others in the group had an amazing lobster risotto . We also had splendid carpacci (tuna, swordfish, and a white fish - don't remember which, embarrassed to say), and a ridiculous plate of crudi (oysters, clams, mussels. squid, cuttlefish, octopus, and gamberi rossi). I'm a bit fussy about raw shellfish, but this stuff was all extremely fresh, and absolutely top notch. The gamberi rossi, in particular, blew me away - very sweet, and very very fresh. We started with a white wine from the Salento, but were not that impressed, and moved to Cometa by Planeta, for about 40 euros a bottle, not a horrendous mark-up.
Anyway, much as I enjoyed the food and the setting, it was too expensive. I would go just for a drink at the bar - that way you can enjoy the setting without having to take a second or third mortgage.
We did save some $ by skipping the dolci and walking a few blocks to the Super Mago del Gelo, whose reputation for fantastic gelati and granite is well deserved. I don't know if it is the best in Puglia, as some claim, we had gelato at least once a day for 2 weeksm, and the only serious competition was from a place in Lecce.
One dinner in Martina Franca (??) or nearby; 3 dinners in or near Fasano
Erica - glad to help. I just remembered that we also had lunch near Fasano, at a place in Torre Canne called Il Buco. http://www.ristorantealbuco.com/
The setting is very nice, and the seafood was very fresh. We had the usual sorts of standard seafood dishes - spaghetti alle vongole, ai frutti di mare, ai gamberi e fiori di zucca, etc; various fritti, and various grilled fish. It was all very good, but not particularly memorable, as evidenced by the fact that I forgot to mention it earlier. It's perfectly respectable, but probably not worth a detour. For 12 people (6 adults and 6 kids), with at least a couple of bottles of vini "nazionali" (in this case, from Campania - Feudi di San Gregorio), and at least 4 secondi di pesce (expensive, these days), it was around 300 euros. One of the pricier meals on the trip, though cheaper than the Grotta Palazzese in Polignano al Mare (a story for another day).
One dinner in Martina Franca (??) or nearby; 3 dinners in or near Fasano
I loved the ricotta forte, and ordered that particular pasta frequently. Others in my group liked it less, finding it too strong. It had the flavor of a very sharp, well-aged pecorino, but was soft and easy to mix into a tomato sauce. The cheeses in Puglia were wonderful all around. Fresh mozzarella, burrata, and different kinds (fresh, aged, sheep, cow, sheep/cow blend, etc.) of ricotta available everywhere. It was very wonderful.
Thanks for the taccodibacco - great website that I will bookmark alongside pignataro and others to which you have introduced me!
One dinner in Martina Franca (??) or nearby; 3 dinners in or near Fasano
Out of curiosity, did they give any specific reasons not to go to Curdunn? I had been planning to eat at the Taverna del Duca, which gets a strong recommendation from the Slow Food guide, my most trusted source, but our landlady, the owner of the local market, and friends from Bari who have a trullo outside Locorotondo all encouraged us to go to Curdunn. We were not disappointed - we had an excellent array of antipasti (predominantly vegetable based, with some cured meats), a variety of pastas (one that stood out to me was orecchiete in a simple tomato sauce with a ricotta forte), and excellent grilled meats. The lamb was especially good. The setting was lovely - we had a long table in a tiny piazza in the back. The service was very friendly, particularly since we were a party of 12, of whom 6 were girls aged 6 and under.
I can imagine that some locals might regard it as too expensive - I think we paid about 240 euros for 12, with the kids eating relatively little. The wine list is also more "national" than those we saw in other places - while retaining a pugliese focus, it featured many wines from the north. Still, the waiter directed us to some very nice local wines. The menu also featured some items that did not strike me as traditional - e.g., carpaccio of porcini - but good local stuff seemed to predominate. (And the porcini were pretty good).
One dinner in Martina Franca (??) or nearby; 3 dinners in or near Fasano
Erica - we just spent 2 weeks in Puglia, the first near Martina Franca, and the second just outside Santa Maria di Leuca. I've been meaning to post in more detail, but here are a few reactions.
We had a very good meal at Ritrovo degli amici. The room was nice and there also seemed to be a nice outdoor seating area. It was a bit more expensive than other places in the area, and a bit more precious, something we did not appreciate as much as we might have, with 4 kids under 6 at at the table. It's located conveniently close to the lovely central area in town, but also easily accessible to parking.
Le Ruote, on the road between MF and Ostuni, was very simple and very good. Fine local ingredients and a very nice feel to the place.
In Cisternino, we had good snacks and lots of good wine at Il Cucco, which is both an enoteca and a simple restaurant. We didn't have a full meal, but the food looked excellent and the staff were great. We had a very nice lunch at La Torre. Did not get to try our landlady's recommendation of Il Giardino.
One of our best meals was ay U Curdunn in Locorotondo, which is also a lovely town. For one meal only, I would recommend going there.
In Otranto, we gave in to the kids and ate at a pizzeria right in the center of town. The food was serviceable and the location lovely - La Bella Idrusa, maybe? Our landlord recommended Acmet Pascia, but we didn't get to try it. We did walk by, and the setting, directly over the water, was terrific.
Courmayeur
I'll be there next week with my family, and would be most grateful for any restaurant recommendations. Thanks!
Dolomites: Bolzano to Berchtesgaden. A Memorable Experience?
Joe - we had a memorable meal in 2002 at a place called Patschneiderhof, in Renon, a little town just north of Bolzano. It was a pain to reach, on a small, windy road up the side of the mountain, but the location was amazing. We were there in the evening, but the view by day must be extraordinary. The atmosphere was quite rustic. I have to confess that I don't remember the details of the meal - it involved speck and other cured meats, dumplings, and groestel, and the like. I see that it is still rated in the Slow Food guide. Telephone is 0471/ 365267. In the same town, they also mention a place called Signaterhof, and even give it a "snail" designation.
We tried to visit Zur Rose during the same trip, but arrived just after their lunch hours and were turned away. It looked very good.
Sorry that I have nothing more concrete or recent to offer. Please report back.
N Wales recommendations
Indeed - my grandfather (Fred) was the son in Maltby & Son. One of my great regrets is that we never got the recipe for his sausages, which I loved. It's great to hear that the Sidolis are still in fine fettle. Please send regards if you pass through soon!
N Wales recommendations
Thanks for the recent tips. It is great to hear that Sidoli's is still going strong. My grandfather had a butcher's shop in Queen Street, and I loved getting that vanilla ice cream on a wafer. I take it that Dominic is still running the shop - is Mrs. Sidoli still around as well?
Rome airport restaurant
It has been years since I last ate there, but I have had decent seafood meals at the restaurants on the north side of the canal that runs through the center of Fiumicino. There are also places in Ostia and Fregene, near the beach. In Fregene, Da Mastino used to be good, though pricy.
Thanks and Request for Help in Perth
I just wanted to close the circle and to say thanks again to the posters here for their fine advice. I'm leaving Perth tomorrow morning, but had several terrific meals here. After Nahm and Balthazar, we had the following experiences.
Palais 85. This is a newish place on the South Esplanade, opposite the Ferris Wheel. It has a lovely view. It was recommended by the staff at the Burswood Intercontinental - something that probably should have counseled against going there. It calls itself a fusion place. The decor is tired - surprising for a place that opened this summer. The food was fine, but not exceptional, and rather overpriced. The oysters (from Albany) were very fresh, and quite sweet. My corn crabcake was tasty, but a bit dry. The lemongrass filet was much less flavorful than the name would suggest. My colleague said the lamb ribs were dry. We had some nice wines, a Cape Mentelle Chardonnay and a Cullen cab/merlot blend.
Lamont's. Very fine meal in a very nice room. Oysters (fried this time) were top notch. Very nice salads, risotto, barramundi, tuna, and lamb. Good Lamont's cab/merlot. Enjoyed this much more than Palais, despite the shorter write-up.
Little Creatures. Just returned from a great meal on a Friday night. Great building, great food, great atmosphere, terrific beer (tried LC's pilsner and bright ale). Pizzas had good crusts and interesting toppings. Chips were top notch. Excellent lamb chops. That place is certainly worth the trip.
Thanks again!
Thanks and Request for Help in Perth
We tried Balthazar last night and it was terrific. We statred with oysters - very fresh and very flavorful - and a try of mixed starters - lamb in a patry wrap, duck in a peanut sauce an something else, all very good. Mains were venison, lamb ribs, and gnocchi with buffalo mozzarella. All were excellent, though the gnocchi perhaps a litle too heavy. The staff pointed us to a nice local riesling and a Margaret River cab, both of which we enjoyed. Service was helpful and very friendly. The first courses arrived a little slowly, so they comped them. That struck me as far too generous. Also a very, nice feel to the place.
A fine experience all around. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks and Request for Help in Perth
Phil,
Many thanks for your quick and very helpful reply, which I really appreciate. I'll try to get to LC on Friday evening, and will look for the Ferry terminal spot as well.
On the subject of WA wines, are there any that you would recommend particularly? I'm woefully ignorant in that area, and would be very grateful for your thoughts.
Thanks and best regards,
Jeremy
Thanks and Request for Help in Perth
I'm staying this week at the Burswood complex, and have searched this board for suggestions in the Perth area. We ate last night at Nahm, and had a superb meal. Many thanks for that tip. The other restaurants that seem to get considerable praise include:
Jacksons
Star Anise
Must
Little Creatures
I would be very grateful for your collective thoughts about how to rate these restaurants, and about whether there are other places to consider. In particular, I'd be interested in places in the Central Business District or Northbridge.
(Just tried to make a reservation and Jacksons and learned that it is closed for reservations)
Thanks!
ROME Brief trip report on foraging for food in August
Yes - I was at the restaurant, near Piazza Trilussa (maybe via Benedetta?). I didn't realize there was a separate Osteria. Is it nearby? In any event, I was troubled to hear that my friend had a poor experience at the restaurant last week. I haven't had the details yet - just a text that the meal was a "bit of a miss." Apparently I redeemed myself somewhat because they loved La Caveja in Pietrovairano, where I had recommended a lunch on the way to Ercolano.
What would you do? Three nights in Lucignano Tuscany, endless possibilities
It's called La Rocca, and it's on Via Matteotti, just inside the walls. Well worth a visit, and it should be quite convenient for you.
Slow Food puts out a new edition of the Osterie d'Italia guide every year. There is considerable continuity from year to year, but they do add and drop places, so you may want to pick up the new edition. You can also register at their website, and find most if not all of the recommendations there.
Sorry that I didn't respond before to your questions about Umbria. I don't think you will go wrong with Orvieto or Perugia/Gubbio. Many have recently run through the several great places in Orvieto, and the Duomo, pozzo, and feel of the town merit a visit. If you go the Perugia route, you might try Stella, a new addition to the Slow Food guide, or divert to Foligno for Il Bacco Felice or to Spello for La Bastiglia. In the lower part of Deruta, there is a great Slow Food place called Il Borgo, but it may only open for dinner.
ROME Brief trip report on foraging for food in August
Thanks for your detailed and thoughtful report. I'm curious about your experience at Checco. I had a wonderful meal there last September - our group focused on classic Roman dishes - fritti for antipasto; gricia, carbonara, amatriciana pastas; abbacchio, etc. I recommended it to a friend who ate there last week, and he had an experience similar to yours. It's such a large space, with so much tourist traffic in the neighborhood - I wonder if it is particularly susceptible to bad nights, or uneven efforts, especially in August. Yet an old Roman friend, at whose home I have eaten some of the best meals of my life, swears by the place. I was with his family for that good meal, so it may be one of those places that puts on a little extra for familar faces. Sorry for the rambling post - I'm curious about your impressions and those of other readers.
What would you do? Three nights in Lucignano Tuscany, endless possibilities
There is a Slow Food (2009 guide) restaurant in Lucignano. I don't have the name handy, but we stopped there for lunch about 3 weeks ago, en route from Le Marche to Lucca. We had a very nice meal - plates of excellent cured meats and local cheeses, a fine rendition of panzanella, some very good pastas, and a bottle of Cervaro della Sala for the very fair price of 20 euros. (I haven't seen it elsewhere, including wine stores, for less than 35). Folks at neighboring tables were eating wonderful looking bistecca alla fiorentina and tagliata. We had four kids under the age of 6 at the table, and the staff were incredibly friendly and helpful, even frying up an egg in the idiosyncratic fashion that my 3-year-old demands. I'll try to dig up the name and to recall the specific pasta dishes that we tried - they were mainly meat-based, with cinghiale and the like, but my vegetarian wife had ravioli that somehow involved black truffles. In any event, I would make a detour to return, and recommend the place strongly of you are staying near Lucignano.
Rome, looking for real Roman food/great seafood?
On the subject of seafood, has anyone eaten recently at Ezio on via Chiana (near via Tagliamento)? I haven't been there in years, and would be grateful for a recent report. Thanks!
