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Ricardo Malocchio's Profile

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What could be the problem with this wine?

Why not mention the specific wine? And, if not heat-damaged, were they prematurely oxidized?

As an example, I purchased a number of 2009 Loire reds in the same price-range as those you mention by Jean François Mérieau, specifically cuvees of Cot ("Cent Visages") and Gamay ("Le Bois Jacou"). When they were on, they were quite tasty for the level, but a shockingly large number (much greater than 50%) were totally oxidized. I blame the corks which had a very slippery surface and were often slightly depressed in the neck and feeling very loose, but I have no way of knowing whether they were the culprit.

But I do know that the wines exhibited high levels of prem-ox, and now I no longer purchase from the winery. A very high level of TCA contamination has caused me to not purchase from one winery, and I'm considering not purchasing any more Faustino due to Brett issues.

If you tell us what the wine is, we might be able to tell you if others have experienced that level of spoilage. And, at the very least, you should warn the rest of us if you're finding high levels of spoilage in a particular wine.

May 28, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Wine

My first Prezza experience: the wine is superb, the food and service not so much

I completely agree. The following day I looked up some photos, and I do not doubt that it was either a hairlike root or a dried-out example of those frond-like extensions that are usually more curved/rounded looking.

Credit where it's due: the waiter expressed his shock on first sight, spirited the dish away, comped the bill, and returned later with an explanation that honestly seemed as much a relief to him as to myself. In the interest of fairness, I hope that's also clear.

May 16, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Greater Boston Area

My first Prezza experience: the wine is superb, the food and service not so much

Yes, the moderators contacted me, explained the policy noted above, and asked me to rephrase for clarity. They could not have been more cordial or understanding.

I was glad to do so and pleased that they were very accommodating to my concerns, foremost among those the accusation of lying by another forum member (those posts were deleted). I was very concerned that altering my original post would obscure the fact that I totally accepted Prezza's explanation after the initial shock (shared by the waiter) and my colorful account of it.

Second, I wanted it to remain clear - or indeed make it clearer - that my criticism here was of a carelessly plated dish. Whether it's a fish scale in the bouillabaisse, a random collection of tiny bones in the filleted Dover sole, olive pits, or hairlike pea tendril roots, such carelessness and lack of execution may not always lead to a ghastly misunderstanding like the one I originally described, but is nonetheless below the standards of any restaurant that proclaims itself to be "fine dining". I was pleased that Chowhound's policies do not prevent calling a restaurant out for these sorts of errors.

So let me be absolutely clear: this is a photo of a pea tendril root and not anything more concerning. But I hope you can understand the initial response to it, ours and the waiter's.

May 16, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Greater Boston Area

My first Prezza experience: the wine is superb, the food and service not so much

Perhaps so. But bear in mind that I'd already set up the original bottle an hour or more prior to our reservation time, and ordered the second bottle immediately upon arrival. We were first-timers, but had already spent over $200 on wine before placing our first food order.

That said, there are nights when I'd prefer to order only an inexpensive Barbera or Dolcetto or the like, and wouldn't want to be treated as second class for doing so.

BTW, the "well rehearsed routine" you noticed on the wine switcheroo reminded me just a little of the shut-down response Devra First received when she was brusquely dismissed for complaining about the ravioli. Sounds like hey'd heard it before.

May 16, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Greater Boston Area

My first Prezza experience: the wine is superb, the food and service not so much

I completely agree on Troquet. It is still the most special place in town for wine lovers and Chris is simply the greatest host, keeper-of-the-cellar, restauranteur, you-name-it. I've never seen anyone but him opening the bottles at Troquet, taking care that each is showing well for his guests.

I also love the food, but not all chowhounders are similarly moved. I think it's brilliantly designed to accompany wines, though I'm usually back and forth between the duck and the pig. And anything that might have truffles on it.

Prezza's margins, like most places, are greatest with the cheapest wines. Wine-searcher doesn't show any listings for the bottle I drank, but surrounding (lesser) vintages are at auction for approximately 50-60% of Prezza's price. Unfortunately, a 2x's markup is quite reasonable for US wine-lists, but that's a rant for another time...

May 15, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Greater Boston Area

My first Prezza experience: the wine is superb, the food and service not so much

My wife took me to Prezza for my 45th birthday on Saturday, our first experience there. We've wanted to go here for a long time, stymied recently by the fire. To say we wanted to love this place is an understatement. We expected to love this place.

I took an early peek at the menu and wine list, and was very impressed by both. After going back and forth on the wine, I settled on one of those great old vintages of a particularly well-loved Chateauneuf. There are many on the list, it wasn't the '78, but I"m not eager to share the exact producer/vintage as I'm hoping against hope that there may be another bottle in Prezza's wonderful cellar for a future visit!

Suffice to say this 30-or-so year old bottle was pristine and the wine was one of the most sensual and profound I've drunk all year. Fill was excellent, just above base-neck. The cork was soaked through and came apart upon opening, the bottom portion ending up in the wine, but fortunately in more or less one piece with only larger chunks floating about. The fire last summer clearly did not impact this bottle, and I was told that the cellar was unaffected save some slight water damage to a few labels, and remained cool even as the fire raged back in the kitchen.

As I said, I will return, if for nothing else than the wine list!

Which brings me to the other part of our experience, the food and service, both of which were lacking for any restaurant that would pride itself as among the class of the city (Prezza is clearly not going for world-class, Michelin star status). From the start, we were surprised to be on the receiving end of some serious table-turning pressure. I consider this totally unacceptable for any restaurant other than a cafeteria, and there wasn't even a second-seating issue here. Our reservations were at 9pm.

I'll chalk up the pestering, the interruptions, the snide comments (well, I have two of your courses, maybe you won't keep me in suspense any longer?) to an overzealous server attempting to be helpful and funny rather than annoyingly intrusive. But I'm being extremely generous here. My wife is not nearly so generous, and unfortunately for him she was paying the tip.

We started off well with a tuna tartar and some only slightly overdone tiger prawns. The latter dish is difficult, the shrimp wrapped in philo and fried which often leads to hard, stringy flesh. But this preparation was only mildly overcooked, and certainly within the bounds of a successful dish. Both paired well with our white choice for the evening, an '09 Droin Chablis 1er Vaillons, available at a reasonable restaurant price. The wine list scores again!

Our next courses were completely unsuccessful. For me, it was the "famous" (??) Ravioli di Uovo. Again, let me concede: a difficult dish to pull off. Prezza did not pull it off. The presentation is unappetizing, the beige upon beige of brown butter sauce on a very flat, wide lipped ravioli disc was not the slightest bit appetizing. And a slice of the fork was all it took to note before tasting that this was an exceptionally hard pasta around the rims. The yolk drizzled out as a very faint yellow (no Paolo Parisi deep orange here). The flavor? Tasteless. No yolkyness. No butteryness. Not a hint of the promised sage. And the texture was terrible. A total failure. I see that a recent Boston Globe reviewer had the same reaction:

Devra First:"“How is the ravioli?’’ our waiter inquires one night. Well, the wrappers are still hard at the edges. “Yes, those are very difficult to cook properly,’’ he says, walking away. While we appreciate that bit of insight, we’d be even more appreciative if he had taken them off the bill or seemed even vaguely apologetic."

I only wish I'd read this review before ordering the dish. It should be perfected or removed from the menu. I might have commented, as well, but another issue quickly arose and took precedence...

That other issue was my wife's dish, the Pea Raviolini, which contained an extraneous object that we discovered to our relief to be a pea tendril part. It's appearance was ghastly as you can see in the photo below (post the photo), but I fully accept the waiter's explanation after returning it to the kitchen and conferring with the staff. It was part of the pea tendril root system and should have been removed in prep. However, its appearance was so unappetizing that it's not unlike finding what appears to be a toenail clipping in your fish dish, freaking out ... and then realizing, oh hey, it's only a fish scale. Not nearly so ghastly, and yet unworthy of a self-described "fine dining" establishment. Here, it was emblematic of the inconsistency of preparation that marked much of the meal.

Finally, I had the veal Porterhouse, and my wife ordered the gnocchi Bolognese. Again, I fared better in that my only complaints are that the veal was overcooked (or my idea of medium rare being at least faintly pink in the middle of even the most done portion is not Prezza's notion), and the "risotto" (their term) was a thick, gelatinous pile of mush. My wife's gnocchi, on the other hand, were to my mind even worse than the "pea tendril parts" of her raviolini. Tiny, dessicated, chewy strings of what they have the unmitigated gall to refer to as "gnocchi", all drowned in a bland, forgettable sauce of red. The appearance and presentation suggested the dish was pre-digested. Except for the dense chewyness of the - oh ok - "gnocchi", for which a bit of pre-mastication may well have helped.

Um, we passed on dessert. Not that we weren't already being rushed out after the quickest two-bottle meal of my adult life.

SO, HELP ME, HOUNDS! There are only a handful of wine lists that are in the same league as Prezza's in this city. I want to give full credit where it's due here. And I want to return and have an overall experience more befitting the quality of the wine program. What should I have ordered instead? Should I avoid weekends? Sit at the bar? Go against my nature and make earlier reservations to avoid the table-turning bumrush?

Let me note in conclusion that the restaurant refers to itself as "Prezza - Fine Dining". And, indeed, the wine was very fine.

May 13, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Greater Boston Area
1

Island Creek or B&G?

Neptune is ICOB's only competition.

It's been so long that I can't even remember when B&G was actually considered good. I know I've regretted my last two visits over the past 4-5 years.

Still, even at ICOB it's all about what you order. Despite appealing to me GREATLY on paper, I don't like the famous short ribs and lobster roe noodles. And I love short ribs, lobster roe, and noodles.

I generally prefer one of the daily specials to any of the longtime house specials, as those tend to be very fresh, very seasonable. When ramps are in season - are we there yet - those tend to show up on the specials plates, too. Likewise softshell crab, etc.

The raw bar is - of course - highly recommended. Except for the lobster. Don't bother.

And the honeyed biscuit is an absolute favorite of mine, often a dessert.

May 01, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Greater Boston Area

Any good restaurants near the Berklee Performance Center?

My wife and I live really close, and we love the Vietnamese side of the Pho Basil menu.

For Thai, we prefer Bangkok City a short block up Mass Ave.

Apr 23, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Greater Boston Area

I like raw meat!

I agree about the ES tartare with the caveat that I haven't had it since last summer. And my last several visits to ES since then have been very disappointing.

Apr 23, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Greater Boston Area

Parts unknown, Koreatown in LA

Of course it's your opinion. I certainly wouldn't want to claim it.

Apr 23, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Food Media & News

Worlds of Wine: The wine-cellaring fetish

Shitty article, and the recommended wines at the end ALL SUCK. Indeed, are known for their suckitude. Wines strictly for suckers.

Freshness is a crucial component in aged wines - I had a 1968 Vina Tondonia several weeks ago that was daisy fresh. A "dull, muted" flavor profile is not one that lovers of mature wines seek. It's freshness plus shedding of baby fat plus the complexity of secondary and tertiary characteristics that we're after.

I think one can glean all one needs to know about this writer from his recommended wines. Did I mention that they ALL SUCK?

Apr 23, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Wine
1

Parts unknown, Koreatown in LA

The "girl" is Nari, a NR producer who's appeared in several episodes. She's absolutely wonderful and Bourdain seems to adore her.

You should perhaps get a better source than the one you cite. Better yet, go straight to the source and you won't look as badly as do your secondary sources.

That Korea episode is one of my all-time favorites. For the food, for Bourdain trying to keep up with the raging spitfire that is Nari, and for the poignancy of her family separated by the War.

I assume you don't suck as bad as slashfood.

Apr 22, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Food Media & News

Any good restaurants near the Berklee Performance Center?

L'Espalier (Boylston)

Sorelllina (Huntington)

La Voile (Newbury)

Apr 22, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Greater Boston Area

Making the best of Rustic Kitchen

I agree with you. To the extent Maggiano's shines, it's because the North End rarely does. There is no reason why Italian food should suck so bad in this city. And yet... there it is.

Apr 22, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Greater Boston Area

How to serve a good Cabernet Sauvignon

I agree. In fact, the notes suggest to me that this wine has been in decline since at least 2008.

The best way to enjoy this wine is to lower your expectations. Napa cabs are not always made for ageing - sadly, this is the usual case - and it appears that this one is already past its prime.

I know, This wine is a youngster by the standards of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Barolo, etc. etc. But Cali is different. Wasn't always the case, and there are still outliers, but this is usually so.

You plan to open this with friends, so I would STRONGLY recommend you have a backup bottle or two ready to go. Even if the wine isn't old and tired, it might be corked or heat damaged. Always have backups when hosting dinners.

Stand it up for a few days to let the sediment settle. If you want to decant it off its sediment, do it right before consuming. When hit with that much oxygen, an old wine on it's last legs can die in the decanter right before your eyes.

Rather, I'd recommend pouring off a glass to taste. If sucky, let it sit for about 20-30 minutes to see if if finds its feet or seems to be declining further. If it seems to be mproving as it sits in the glass, then I might decant it off.

And wine is never served at room temperature. That's simply too warm. About 62-65F is good for cabs.

Apr 22, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Wine
1

"Washington Wines Pack High Alcohol Wallop, Little Else," John Mariani.

Part of the problem for me is lack of availability of WA wines (I'm in Mass, and cannot order from out-of-state despite certain court rulings and Drew Bledsoe's righteous complaining).

And the ones that are available? Kinda expensive. Like more than the handful of BDXs I still purchase that don't pack the "high alcohol wallop" (Poujeaux or Cantemerle or even Chasse-Spleen that's a bit more extracted than I tend to like).

The one wine that was foremost in my mind here is Quilceda Creek. It is widely available here, though quite costly as you note, and among the few WA wines I have some experience with.

And, for my palate, it certainly packs an (unappetizingly) high alcohol wallop. And, as well, an extreme amount of oak. High ABV - say over 14% - can still be an attribute of a balanced wine, but that level of oak treatment ALWAYS puts me off. It obscures terroir, as well as varietal typicity. It may cover up a myriad of sins, but it also obscures nuance and the subtle complexity of what might otherwise constitute a great wine.

That headline clearly paints with too broad a brush, but I think there's a kernel of real truth in this criticism.

Apr 05, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Wine

Dorado Fish Tacos.. the best!

Thought this place was second-rate when it opened. I certainly preferred El Pelon.

Was in the area and gave it another shot last summer, and I agree: it's now my favorite spot for fish tacos.

Apr 04, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Greater Boston Area

"Washington Wines Pack High Alcohol Wallop, Little Else," John Mariani.

I've had very little experience with WA wines. That said, this article certainly reflects that experience.

Can I get some suggestions for elegant, refined, food-friendly wines from WA?

Maybe Cadence? Gramercy? Maison Bleue? Andrew Will?

Apr 04, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Wine

Spoke Wine Bar

Puffeney, Huet, Lopez de Heredia, Coudert, Selbach-Oster, among others... all current release vintages, but that's a decent, even mildly interesting wine list.

http://www.urbandaddy.com/uploads/ass...

EDIT: Oh, I see there's a relationship with Dave's Fresh Pasta. I'm guessing Flea must be doing the wine list as many of those wines are sold at Dave's.

Apr 02, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Greater Boston Area

Michel Rolland vows to take Figeac into St Emilion premier league

You get exactly what I'm saying: "soul doesn't put money in the bank". And it's been clear of late that Figeac has no intention of remaining what we knew - an outlier making restrained, traditional wine from very good terroir at very reasonable prices - but instead is going all-in for the Parker points, the upgrade, and the gravy train.

As you note, they jacked their prices in 2009, then jacked 'em again in 2010... and still didn't get upgraded to premier grand cru classé A. (Yes, the price the wine is sold at is factored in.)

It's not hard to predict what will happen here: cabernet sauvignon vines will be pulled up and replanted with easier-ripening merlot. Extraction levels will increase, micro-ox will be used, and perhaps a greater degree of new wood. It will be a round, glossy, internationally styled wine. The Parker pts will come, as will the premier grand cru classé A classification. And that's all they'll need to justify their price increases, present and future.

I'm already priced out of Figeac. Indeed, most of BDX. Fortunately, I don't think I'd much care for the new Figeac anyway. And BDX continues its descent into irrelevance for the vast majority of wine drinkers.

Apr 02, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Wine

Michel Rolland vows to take Figeac into St Emilion premier league

When those bluesmen down in the Delta sold their souls, the return was magnificent, brilliant, even transcendent. It would appear that the devil is a tad more miserly these days, or perhaps it's the relative value of the Bordelais' soul.

Apr 01, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Wine

San Sebastián, Pays Basque (Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle, St Jean de Luz, Biarritz, Espelette, Hondarrabia) Suggestions

It appears to have been said and you have acknowledged, but it bears repeating: do NOT miss La Cuchera de San Telmo. Go ahead and get the half racion of the foie instead of just the pintxo size. Hell, get the full racion. Also great are the veal cheeks and pig's ear. And the suckling pig. And everything else.

Did someone mention Rekondo? In an effort to discourage you, the food is not as exciting as you'll find elsewhere in and around San Sebastian. But if you're a wine lover, there may not be (shhhhh) a better place (keep it under your hat) in the whole wide world (I wish I could whisper it in your ear). It's special, it's not for everyone, and we need to keep it between us.

One of the bottles my wife and I shared there recently was a 1968 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia, my birth-year wine and - fortunately for me - a great Rioja vintage. Soft, gentle, delicately perfumed, as Bordeaux used to be before Parker, Rolland, Chateau Pavie, et al., turned it into a beastly caricature. Old enough to justify opening it with the port tong, a ritual involving fire and water and the most dramatic wine service I've ever witnessed. And the cellar, oh god, ask for a tour of the cellar....

(I need to shut myself up about this place. This post will self-destruct in 24hrs.)

Mar 15, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Spain/Portugal

I Love Anthony Bourdain, but...

Lived in TX for 15 yrs, and that's also one of my favorite episodes.

I strongly disagree with the OP. I find No Reservations to be superior to the The Layover precisely because it focuses on socio-politico-cultural elements. Not just the food, but also the people. For me, i's kinda what sets him apart.

Feb 07, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Food Media & News

Belly Wine Bar/Amelia's

There is one big difference between Belly and Salty Pig. Belly serves much better wine and food.

The wine prices are not high, unless you're bottom-scraping (which is true at every restaurant - the cheapest bottles are marked up the most). I had a ten-year old Bartolo Mascerello Barolo there for $130 (you might pay that retail), and I recall a Pousse d'Or red burg for under $100. These are two of the best bottles I recall from their list, and both are quite excellent restaurant prices.

(And the by-the-glass menu actually has wines you might want to drink.)

So, I totally agree with mkfisher - Belly is much more a wine lovers place. I'd say it's the only self-designated wine bar in Boston actually worthy of the name.

I also prefer the food at Belly, though perhaps I ordered wrong at Salty Pig. I can't recall a single interesting item from SP, while the duck breast prosciutto (or whatever) and the bone marrow at Belly are, respectively, my favorite new dish in Boston and my favorite bone marrow preparation ever.

EDIT: I should comment on the service, as it's an issue. There was one woman (very short haircut) who knows the wine, the list, what bottles are rattling around in the cellar not on the list, and generally brings a lot of knowledge. Cheerful, insightful, fun to talk to. The other servers, however, seemed to know NOTHING. I mean, when you have to slow down and carefully enunciate wine names and then ultimately reopen the list and point at the bottle you want ("oh, so that's how it's pronounced!")... this doesn't inspire confidence. If you didn't know much about wine, or didn't know what you wanted, these folks would be of no assistance. And that's no way to run a wine bar.

Jan 18, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Greater Boston Area

Montlouis-sur-Loire appellation cuts itself loose from InterLoire

Try anything by Francois Chidaine, who's primarily working Montlouis, but also has parcels in Vouvray. About 30% lower in price than the (formerly?) great Huet, and plenty good enough to cite in the same sentence.

(I say "formerly?" due to Noel Pinguet having left Domaine Huet last year over differences with the new owner - who's vision I find less than promising.)

If you can find anymore of Chidaine's 2008 Clos Habert, leave it where it is and PM me immediately!

His sparkling brut is also a great value.

Jan 13, 2013
Ricardo Malocchio in Wine

Italian Food with French wine

For cheapo bojo, I go Jadot!

Dec 12, 2012
Ricardo Malocchio in Wine

Krug and wife's birthday

I don't like flutes. Better than those old wide-bowl, ratpack thingies, but nowhere near as good as a proper white wine glass.

Dec 11, 2012
Ricardo Malocchio in Wine

Krug and wife's birthday

Something fried. Tempura, so long as it stays crispy after take-out.

Dec 11, 2012
Ricardo Malocchio in Wine

Italian Food with French wine

Do you recall how these wines are designated? I've had the Domaine Jean Descombes Morgon which is sold here under the Duboeuf banner. I don't think this what you mean because, you know... yuk! Really overextracted and oaky and not in that age-able, balanced sense like Jadot's Chateau des Jacques Moulin-a-Vent.

But basically if it's US stocked Duboeuf (stuff the Deutsch Family brings in), avoid?

Dec 11, 2012
Ricardo Malocchio in Wine

Italian Food with French wine

All wine descriptors are vague, subjective, and ultimately lacking. Someone once said writing about music is like dancing about architecture. I'd only add that the characteristics of wine are perhaps even less amenable to prose.

That said, when collioure1 suggested he preferred "feminine" wines, I knew enough of what he meant to quickly note that Coudert's Fleurie did not fit the category. I bet you did, too.

My definition of "masculine" above was - I hope - clearly hyperbolic, expressed in the least PC terms I could manage. For my next trick, I shall opine on the gender connotations of Rosé...

Dec 07, 2012
Ricardo Malocchio in Wine