cegray's Profile
Best hummus in Israel?
Israel’s great culinary debate, akin to pizza faceoffs in Chicago or cheesesteak wars in Philly, boils down to one question: Where can you find the country’s best hummus?
We sampled an entry today at Sa’id, a classic hummus establishment in Acre (Akko), a city on the country’s northern Mediterranean coast that dates back to the Crusaders. To get there, our guide took us through the rambling streets of the souk, where vendors sold everything from spices to children’s clothing to hookah pipes.
Inside, Sa’id appeared nondescript – save for the heaping piles of food on the tables. Our driver ordered bowls of hummus for each of us.
I wasn’t quite prepared for how MUCH hummus we’d receive. Mounds of hummus, liberally dosed with chickpeas and swimming in olive oil, arrived at the table, along with a tall platter of warm pita bread. It tasted so much fresher and creamier than any hummus that I’ve ever had in the U.S. We mopped it up with gusto.
Photos and more info are up on my blog. I'm also interested in getting recommendations for hummus in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, as I'm here for a few more days.
http://caroundtheworld.com/2010/05/12/exploring-israel-where-can-you-find-the-best-hummus/
Etta's Lunchbox Cafe - the best kind of kitsch
Located on route 56 just outside the Hocking Hills, Etta’s is one of those marvelous roadside attractions that you’d kick yourself for missing, if you are ever in the area. It’s pure kitsch, in the best – and sweetest – meaning of the word.
With over 800 lunchboxes with themes ranging from Davy Crockett to Star Wars to the Powderpuff Girls, the Lunchbox Museum is the brainchild of LaDora Ousley, a native of the rural Hocking Hills area. An avid thrifter, she originally bought the lunchboxes to house her cassette tape collection (remember those?)
Those lunchboxes became kitchen decorations, then kept spreading. Now the cook and general store owner often receives lunchboxes in the mail from customers who want to contribute their own memories to the collection.
It’s worth sticking around Etta’s to try LaDora’s food. Our meal started with a shared pizza that was as delicious as it was filling. I split a turkey melt, while others in our group braved the menu’s Spam sandwich. The meal finished up with a piece of coconut cream pie.
The lunchbox museum is free; sandwiches and pizzas are almost all und0er $10 (larger pizzas can get up to $20). While Etta’s doesn’t have a website, they do have a fan page on Facebook. The phone # is 740-380-0736 and the address is 35960 St., Route 56 in New Plymouth, OH. If you love pop culture or just want a few minutes to wallow in your childhood, go.
(More info and photos are available on my website: http://caroundtheworld.com/2010/05/05/ohio-ettas-cafe-lunchbox-museum-hocking-hills/ )
Chris
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Etta's Lunchbox Cafe
35960 State Route 56, New Plymouth, OH 45654
Dinner at Guy Savoy Paris
I must admit, I’ve been stalking Guy Savoy a bit from afar for years. I almost booked a meal at his restaurant in Las Vegas last year during my Sin Week trip, but my group just couldn’t swing it, financially (we contented ourselves with Daniel Boulud instead, which was….good. Not great. Not Guy).
So when I saw Guy Savoy as a stop on my Michelin Paris tour, I couldn’t help it. I squealed. I posted it on Facebook. Completely uncool, I know. But that’s the reaction that his name causes among foodies, at least among those on the aspirational side who don’t get to dine in three-starred restaurants all that often.
When our party arrived at the restaurant on a Tuesday night, not far from the Arc d’Triomphe, Guy himself showed us to our table, enclosed in a semi-private room
Inside, with dark walls, African art and modern paintings, the restaurant decor was serious, but the plates on the table showed Savoy’s festive side. As soon as we sat down, we were served Champagne from Guy’s own vineyards, along with foie gras and toast on tiny silver toothpicks. They came around three times with these delectable morsels, which told me that this wasn’t going to be a Spartan experience.
For our amuse bouche, we received a small cup of mushroom soup in a Siamese twin dish. The waiters lifted it to reveal a tiny potato and mushroom bite.
(If you want to see this report with photos, go to my blog: http://caroundtheworld.com/2010/03/23/michelin-restaurant-guy-savoy-paris/)
This kind of drama carried throughout the meal and was particularly heightened by our first course, steamed Breton lobster. It came out in a flurry of vapor, which later settled to reveal the crustaceon.
A small glass of lobster foam was served with the dish and we were instructed to drink it as we ate the course, “like a cappachino.”
At this point, I was hooked. This is what I consider a three-star experience to be: culinary techniques that I haven’t seen before, combined with fantastic presentation and food that I actually like to eat. Our wine for this course and the next: Puligny Montrachet Les Vieilles Vignes Domane Vincent Girardin.
It was around now that we were introduced to the Guy Savoy bread cart. The restaurant serves 9 kinds of bread, and each looked delicious. I tried a piece of chestnut.
Our next course was a piece of fish served with the scales on it, which gave it a nice crispiness. I was caught up in conversation at this point so I don’t remember too much more about the dish.
Next came Guy Savoy’s specialty – an artichoke soup with black truffles, served with a piece of brioche liberally doused with truffle butter. Words can’t describe how good this was. Waiters came around with extra portions of brioche as we ate; I didn’t see too many people turning them down.
Our meat course for the evening was a rack of veal. Before it was served, we were shown the cooked piece of meat. Our wine for this course was a Chateau Bahans Haut-Brion 2001, Pessac-Leognan. The dish was plated with truffled potatoes. Again, the waiters proved their mettle during this course, by offering second helpings of potatoes and more jus for the veal. It was all incredibly good.
At this point, we were getting full, as you might imagine. But our meal was really only 2/3 done.
Next came the cheese cart, where the waiter served up a variety, depending on your tastes. I told him the stinkier, the better.
Our first dessert was a blood orange sorbet of sorts, that waiters topped with a blood orange topping . It was served with an aloe vera marshmallow (the second time I had eaten aloe vera for dessert in two days) and a 2002 Satuernes from Chateau Guiraud that was absolutely delectable.
Our second dessert also had an element of drama to it. It arrived as simple chocolate ball. that melted when the waiters poured on a mango sauce. Again, incredibly delicious.
But wait, there’s more! After these “official desserts” came a round of “unofficial” decadence. We were offered all kinds of treats, from servers who insisted that we keep eating.
My actual exchange with a waiter, that I’ll forever remember as the “dessert pusher:”
Waiter: Rice pudding? Chocolate mousse?
Me: Honestly, I can’t eat anything else.
Waiter: Cheesecake? Pecan tarte?
Me: Seriously, no
Waiter leaves for a minute. He comes back with a sliver of pie and drapes it in front of me.
Waiter: Yes?
I’m clearly whipped by now. “Sure,” I say, and dig in. He smiles triumphantly. Let the record show that after all that protest, I found room for a macaron as well.
Upon reflection , what made the meal great is that it didn’t feel that a restaurant experience, per se. It felt more like an awesome dinner party, that just happened to have some of the best food you’ve ever ate. And that’s due primarily to the service, which never rushed us and felt solicitious without being overbearing. Wine glasses were refilled, seconds were regularly offered, breads and desserts were dispensed liberally to say the least. Although the meal lasted four hours, it didn’t feel long.
So, what was the damage for all of this? I was told that just the dinner was about 340 Euro, not including the wine, which I’m guessing adding another 200 euro. So if you want to recreate this meal yourself, you’re looking at more than $700 per person. For my husband and I, that would be a mortgage payment. The restaurant is open for lunch, however, so….I’m saving up to come back sometime. It was that special.
Tasting menu at Le Meurice
souphie, I have some info about the desserts on my blog. At a certain point, I got tired of cutting and pasting.
I just finished my report on the dinner at Guy Savoy, which WAS a truly mind-blowing meal. It's at this link, but I will post parts of it here later today. http://caroundtheworld.com/2010/03/23/michelin-restaurant-guy-savoy-paris/
Tasting menu at Le Meurice
My Michelin trip to Paris this week included several stops at restaurants that can easily provide once-in-a-lifetime experiences. First on our “eating schedule” - the degustation menu, with wine pairings, at three-star Le Meurice.
(To see this report in more detail with photos, go to http://caroundtheworld.com/2010/03/18/three-michelin-star-yannick-alleno-tasting-menu-at-le-meurice/ )
Before our official tasting began, we were served not one, not two but FIVE amuse bouche.
1st course - Prawns and Sea Urchin Coral Uncooked (wine: Trabener Krauterhaus Riesling Spatlese Trocken, 2008, Weingut Trossen)
Our first course, uncooked shrimp served with crispy tails, sea urchin gelee and Yuzu jelly, was a visual stunner. From what I’ve read, Alleno is a master at seafood gelee, so this dish is designed to start the meal with a bang through both aesthetics and taste.
2nd course: Breaded Big Aspargus from the South (wine: Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes Vieilles Vignes 2007, Domaine Gauby)
After the first course, I was a little relieved to see something simpler for the second. The asparagus, which Alleno chose from the south of France, came drizzled with a fermented cream sauce. It was here that we realized the excellence of our sommelier, Estelle Touzet. A younger woman, she approached each pairing with passion, explaining in detail why each wine would work with the dish and soliciting our feedback. Here, the flinty white burgundy balanced well with asparagus, which is notoriously hard to pair.
3rd course - Duck Foie Gras iodized in Sugar Crust (wine: Vovray Demi Sec Le Haut-Lieu 2007, Domaine G. Huet)
I had read about this signature presentation of foie gras and was excited to see it in person. Just as many Asian cuisines salt-bake fish, Alleno sugar-bakes his foie gras, wrapping it in seaweed first. Servers bring the foie gras sugar brick to the table, where they ceremonially crack it. Once the sugar crust is opened, you can see the seaweed-wrapped foie gras inside. The waiters take it back to the kitchen for plating.
4th course - Poached Turbot in Aromatic Milk (wine: Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru “Les Chaumees” 2005, Domaine J-N Gagnard
5th course - Steamed Fillet of Milk-Fed Lamb (wine: Hermitage 2006, Domaine Y. Chave)
Our plate of lamb offered cuts from nearly every part of the animal, including pickled blood sausage. As with all of the dishes, the servers presented this course in timed unison that had some playfulness to it. Overall, I felt Le Meurice did a good job of making haute cuisine accessible: the servers were knowledgable and open, instead of snobby and formal; and questions about dishes were encouraged. American tourists who might be intimidated by the idea of a Parisian 3-star won’t need to worry at Le Meurice
6th course - Saint-Maure Cheese with Yogurt Crystals and Lemon Cream (wine: Jurancon Sec Cuvee Marie 2007, Domaine C. Hours)
Our cheese course arrived as a set dish instead of a selection from the cart. The tangy goat cheese provided a good transition into our desserts, which once they started, kept on coming
There was also a pre-dessert plate of sweets before the two final dessert courses.
Total cost per person for the dinner: 240 euros, with an extra 140 euros for the wine pairings
While interesting on an intellectual level, the meal didn’t blow me away, taste-wise, as some degustation menus that I’ve had. It wasn’t necessarily a “meal of a lifetime” for me.
But the incredible setting and the impeccable yet unfussy service did set Le Meurice apart. At times you could imagine you were on a movie set, and I’ve never eaten in a room so beautiful. The restaurant does have a 100 euro multi-course lunch that might be a more accessible way to experience Alleno’s cooking and Le Meurice’s atmosphere without killing your budget.
Tasting menu at Distrito
I went back to Jose Garces’ restaurant Distrito last night for what ended up being a “quadruple date” with four couples. Distrito had been my favorite of the new Iron Chef’s five Philadelphia restaurants so I was looking forward to the meal. (Photos of what we ate are up on my blog, www.caroundtheworld.com).
As we waited for our party to show up, we ordered some of the vegetarian nachos, which come blazing hot in a skillet. Garces has been part of the trend where chefs use quality ingredients for upscale bar food (see my post on lunch at Village Whiskey here) so even this standard appetizer had a few tricks in it (radishes as a garnish lent a bright taste to the beans, cheese and chips).
Once our group arrived, we were seated upstairs. Because the food is served tapas style, the servers recommended two to three dishes per person. Four in our group decided to do th $35 Diego Rivera tasting menu. The restaurant offers a more elaborate tasting menu for $55 (Frida Kahlo, natch) and will pair tequilas with your meal for $25 extra.
Our tasting menu started with chips, a salsa with a smoky chipolte flavor and guacamole made with cotilia cheese. Garces’ guac is not the best in town – I give that honor to the more authentic Taqueria Veracruzana on Washington Avenue – and I also like the version made tableside at Steven Starr’s El Vez a little better. But it was creamy and flavorful.
Next we received the Camarones ceviche, consisting of shrimp in a spicy tomato sauce, dressed with avocado and plantain chips. This was very good, although it lacked the bright flavor that I tend to associate with ceviches. It arrived with a Cilango chop salad , a welcome bit of greenery with arugula, watercress, green apples, cranberries, spiced pecans, and a honey-lime yogurt dressing.
The next course produced some oohs and aahs, and was probably the most successful. Everyone raved about the huaraches, Mexican flatbreads that seem a little bit like pizza. The tasting menu included Los Hongos, a combination of earthy flavors that were simply outstanding (forest mushrooms, huitlacoche sauce, queso mixto, black truffle, and corn shoot). Another member of our group ordered the Costillas huarache which had short ribs on it, and I could hear the exclamations across the table.
Distrito has seven types of tacos on their menu, ranging from pulled pork to shrimp and chorizo to tongue. You get three with each order. Our tasting menu group received a Hamachi taco , consisting of fried yellowtail tuna topped with chipolte remoulade, avocado and red cabbage. Several in our group pronounced this the best dish of the night (I liked the huarache a little better).
Distrito has three moles on the menu, and we could hear the table next to us raving over their pork belly mole. We received rabbit instead, which was tasty – but not a must-have. The mole is served with rice, and we also had a side of black beans included in the meal.
And finally, our group split a portion of the Carne Asada entree. I don’t think I’d feel the need to order this as a separate entree – at $32, it’s one of the most expensive menu items. Distrito’s small plates are so full of flavor that a bigger entree seems a little out of place. It seemed that the poblano corn rice (cooked risotto style) that accompanied the dish was more of a hit than the meat.
Finally, the tasting menu finished with a pumpkin-flavored flan. I’m not a big flan person, so I was a little jealous of the tres leche cake ordered at the other end of the table. Distrito also has churros in chocolate sauce. I’ll have to leave room for that next time.
Our bill came to $114 per person. That’s steep, mostly because members of our group ordered a pitcher of margaritas (at $49, expensive). Later in the night, they switched to Tecate, the Mexican beer that comes in cans - although a few people dipped into the tequila menu. If you don’t drink, it would be easy to cut your bill down, as the plates themselves are in the $7 to $12 range. Entrees are more expensive, but honestly, the smalll plates are so good that you are better off ordering those.
We all left satisfied with our quadruple date out. I’m not sure if Distrito is my favorite anymore, as the choices on the tasting menu this time didn’t quite match the last time I was here with my husband. But I know that we will be back, if only so I can order the huarache, tacos and churros again.
Chris Gray Faust
Chris Around The World
www.caroundtheworld.com
Follow me on Twitter at twitter.com/CAroundTheWorld
Eating through Columbus, Ohio - Barcelona, Dirty Frank's, North Market, Pistacia Vera
I was in Columbus for a few days and was pretty surprised by the food scene.city has all sorts of cute places run by chefs and entrepreneurs who are focused on using local ingredients and seasonal produce in interesting ways.
Here are some reviews of the places I went (photos are on my blog at http://caroundtheworld.com/2010/01/23/eating-columbus/
Barcelona. This tapas place, built in a former beer hall in Columbus’s adorable German Village neighborhood, is the favorite of one of my friends, Amy Weirick, so we feasted there on Thursday night. And when I say feast, I mean it: between three of us, we sampled a good portion of the menu. Our waiter, Mike T, was one of the more knowledgeable I’ve met lately, and he steered us right. We started with a cheese plate that included a gorgeous La Peral, a cave-aged blue cheese served in a sherry reduction, as well as a plate of Jamon Iberico de Bellota – that ham from an acorn-fed pig that I lived on in the real Barcelona last year. All of this was washed down with a red sangria that met my standards of not being too sweet.
Like most of the diners surrounding us, we ordered a paella among the entrees. It wasn’t the standout, however. That honor went to a dish called “Tres Cerdos,” – basically, pork three ways. Imagine a pork chop wrapped in bacon and filled with chorizo. It was incredibly tender and tasty.
The “vieiras” dish of sauteed scallops served in a cream sauce of bacon, mushroom, dates and baby lima beans also had us oohing and ahing,
Dirty Frank's Hot Dog Palace: Amy told me that I had to experience this upscale hot dog joint, which has a costume karoake on Monday nights. It was a Friday, so no singing – but the bar, decorated with paintings of rock stars done by the owner’s brother, a Philadelphia artist – was packed with people in their 20s and 30s, drinking local beers and eating franks topped with everything from Korean kim chee to corn relish to cream cheese and chives. I ordered a BLT (again with the bacon – I know, it’s a bad habit), along with sides of tator tots and mac and cheese.
Both the hot dog and tator tots were fantastic – I finished my tots and moved on to my dining companion Thera’s plate. I couldn’t eat the mac and cheese though. It was just a little rich for me. At the manager’s insistence, we finished with a funnel cake and walked out about ready to give birth to a food baby. Bring your appetite if you come here.
Pistacia Vera: When I arrived at my lodging – the amazing Whittier Suites run by the German Village Guesthouse - I was greeted with a lovely wrapped box of colorful macarons. I’m used to the earthy looking macaroons served up in Philly’s Italian bakeries so I was a little flummoxed by these delicate, pastel upper-crust cousins, coming in flavors such as white chocolate coconut, Meyer lemon and orange chestnut. They were delicious, however, so I was happy when Amy took me to the Pistacio Vera store where I could see the cooks in action.
North Market: Any city serious about its food has a fantastic farmers market, and Columbus is no exception. The North Market complex is more Seattle than Sandusky: all of the 35 vendors are independent vendors and merchants who are serious about their ingredients and food. We went after already consuming pastries at Tasi Cafe, so I didn’t think I was hungry.
Enthusiastic vendors offered me samples anyway so I was able to try Jeni’s ice cream, which comes in all sorts of unusual flavors (goat cheese and cherry; smoked carmel, gooey butter cake); waffles from Taste of Belgium (their secret is hunks of beet sugar in the dough) and Pam’s Market Popcorn, where the painful purgatory pepper popcorn was seriously hot.
Chris Gray Faust
Chris Around The World
www.caroundtheworld.com
Skyway Jack's in St. Petersburg
I couldn’t leave the greater Tampa/St. Petersburg area without visiting Skyway Jack’s, an institution near the Sunshine Skyway that’s been open since 1976.
The restaurant’s Southern kitsch vibe hits you as soon as you pull into the parking lot. The windows are decorated with Porky Pig-style cartoons and a monster rooster greets you at the door. Skyway Jack’s claims that it serves 500 breakfasts on a typical Sunday and goes through 2,500 eggs, 400 pounds of sausage, 45 pounds of bacon and 4,000 cups of coffee a week! Not bad for a place that only seats 49 people at a time.
Once inside, you’re greeted by waitresses in politically incorrect T-shirts and a ton of pig paraphenalia. We arrived around 9:30 a.m. on Sunday and were able to get a booth right away. By the time we left at 11, the lobby was filled with hungry brunchers, waiting. The place attracts all kinds – we saw people arriving from church, as well as a guy in fisherman overalls. One guy told the waitress he was getting married later in the day! (Here’s hoping he didn’t have a nervous stomach!)
The menu is scrawled in marker on whiteboards mounted on restaurant’s wall. You’ll find all the usual breakfast standards, plus several with military touches (owner Jack Thomas served in the Navy and was a former cook in the Indiana National Guard). Among the more colorful offerings:. SOS (s— on a shingle), basically creamy sausage gravy ladled over biscuits and served with tomatoes; Anchor’s Away consisting of baked beans, smoked sausage, and cornbread; and An Apple A Day – baked sliced apples with sausage and corn muffin.
True to the decor, there’s a whole slew of pork options, including pork brains scrambled with eggs: If you’re a vegetarian and squeamish about pig being served up so many ways, you might want to think about another brunch spot (although there were plenty of veg options such as waffles, French toast and pancakes).
Blair and I both ordered the special, a fried flounder filet served with eggs ($7.95). Mine came poached, with cheese grits and a biscuit. Blair went for a cheesy scramble, accompanied by hash browns and a cornbread muffin.
When our plates arrived, we were a little overwhelmed with the sheer amount of food in front of us. Our waitress lived up to the stereotype, calling us “hon” with a wink and refilling our coffee constantly. “You aren’t gonna need tartar sauce on that,” she said of the fish (though she brought it anyway).
And she was right. The fish was phenomenal on its own, and even better when sopped in a bit of runny egg. Sometimes places known for their kitsch fail to deliver on taste. Skyway Jack’s did - Blair’s cornbread muffin was so good that we bought two more to bring home with us. Definitely worth a stop – just make sure you are really hungry.
Photos are on my travel blog: http://caroundtheworld.com/2010/01/03/breakfast-skyway-jacks/
Chris Gray Faust
Chris Around The World
www.caroundtheworld.com
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Skyway Jack's Restaurant
2795 34th St S, Saint Petersburg, FL 33711
Lunch at Jose Garces' Village Whiskey
The day before Jose Garces goes to the Next Iron Chef finale, my sister and I stopped into Village Whiskey for lunch.
I must admit, I'm a Garces fan. I've been to all of his restaurants, and my husband loves Distrito. So I was excited to try the latest.
It’s smaller than his other places, with a menu focusing on upscale bar snacks, gourmet burgers, elaborate cocktails and more than 80 brands of whiskey. There was a wait for the leather banquettes and raised tables along the wall, so we took seats at the long wooden bar.
Despite the high ceilings, the narrow restaurant feels cramped when you go in, especially when its crowded. Once you’re seated, though, the wood panelled room creates an inviting, old school atmosphere, like a city saloon in the 1930s. I’m sure it feels romantic at night.
While much on the menu was tempting (I’m going to have to come back to try the Kentucky Fried quail). we ordered classics: the 8 oz. Whiskey Burger with Jasper Hill Cheddar ($9 for the burger, $3 for the cheese), and the pulled pork sandwich ($12). Although the bartender tried to convince us to add cheese to our split order of $5 French fries, we decided that the duck fat they were cooked in contained more than enough calories!
My sister and I aren’t whiskey drinkers, so we had a glass of wine instead. As we waited, we watched the bartender, who always seemed to have a shaker in hand, do his thing. He made a point of creating at least one cocktail in front of each group, which I thought was a great way to engage and entice customers. Next time, I may try the Philadelphia Fish House Punch, which consists of peach brandy, cognac, rum, tea, lemon and spiced sugar.
And yes, I said next time – because everything was delicious. The burger was a perfect medium rare, juicy and topped just a hint of thousand island dressing. Definitely worth the caloric splurge and a worthy competitor to other notable Philly burders (the Rouge burger, the Good Dog burger, etc.) I had ordered a basic cheddar topping to appease my less adventurous sister, but next time I might add advocado or the delicious-sounding horseradish crab salad to the beef.
The BBQ pork was also very good. It came with a tangy cole slaw and fried pickles, which I really loved. The duck fat fries, served in a julep cup, weren’t the best I’ve had – I tend to like a crisper, thinner fry – but they were more than adequate. Next time, I might order tator tots instead.
Service was above average. We only had an hour to eat, but we never felt rushed and our food came out in a timely manner. While the restaurant was busy, it still felt intimate enough for my sister and I to indulge in our girl talk without feeling that the rest of the place could hear us.
With all the trips that I regularly take to Philly, I’ll definitely be back, next time with my husband (who i know won’t be able to resist the cheese on those duck fat fries!)
Chris
www.caroundtheworld.com
Brunch at Volt
We live in Alexandria. It took us 80 minutes...some slowdown on 270 where the three lanes came down into two. Plus there was some traffic in Frederick itself.
As far as the service....well, I was definitely put off by overhearing the bartender making fun of people who have been visiting since the show. What do they expect? The show is drawing attention to the restaurant and they should be glad about that.
I did like the thorough explanation of the dishes. Overall, we just got a self-important "vibe: from the servers that was unnecessary, particularly considering that it was brunch. It wouldn't keep me from going back....although I wouldn't have minded a slightly warmer experience.
Brunch at Volt
Bravo's reality show Top Chef is a weekly ritual in our household, so for our second anniversary, my husband and Don decided to go to a restaurant where one of the "chef-testants" works.
We chose Volt in Frederick over Zaytiyna downtown, primarily because we like Volt's owner, chef Bryan Voltaggio better than Michael Isabella, who works for Washington's Jose Andres.
Frederick is about 80 minutes north of Washington. It has a 50-block historic downtown, and the drive up had some great fall foliage. Volt is housed in the Houck Mansion, a gorgeous three-story home built by six sisters in the 1890s. Volt is on the ground floor; an internet web design firm is upstairs.
We had a drink in the bar. Despite the mansion's Victorian facade, the interior decor is modern - lots of white and brown. The servers all wear brown Converses - a cute idea, but one that doesn' t exactly work for the guys wearing suits. The bar offers a menu of creative and old-fashioned cocktails, but we stuck with mimosas and cava.
The restaurant has three dining rooms - the main room, a "chef's dining room" where patrons order tasting menus and Table 21 in the kitchen, where for $121 (not including drinks), diners get 21 small courses served directly by the chef. Diners can also eat at the bar or have small plates in the lounge.
Sunday brunch is served at a fixed price, $20 for three courses (wine pairings are $18 extra). As it was brunch, we didn't expect Bryan to be in the kitchen. I was surprised, however, to overhead one of the bartenders making fun of the fans who have been coming to get a glimpse of the cheftestant. Isn't drawing curious customers the point of going on a national TV show? Overall, the staff was a little on the snooty side, but not so much that it detracted from the meal.
For the first course, I chose the chevre ravoli, paired with mushrooms in a brown butter sauce and topped with a sage foam. This was delicious and I mopped up the sauce with the olive rolls we were served. A great start.
My second course, however, was a little disappointing. I had ordered the Maine lobster omelet, and with a small piece of lobster tucked in the egg, the flavor failed to permeate the dish.
For his second course. Don had salmon, with farro, a grain I was unfamiliar with. Our waiter told us that it was the "grain of the Roman Legions," and was a central part of their rations. Served risotto-style, it was delicious and a nice firm counterpoint to the salmon. I also loved our sides: Iberico bacon, country sausage and Don's country biscuit and gravy side.
For dessert, there was no contest: I wanted the "textures of chocolate." What came out was an s-shaped wedge of white chocolate mousse, topped with milk chocolate ice cream and dusted with raw organic cocoa. It was delicious. Don was happy with his pear cobbler. Because I told them it was our anniversary, they brought us out another dessert as well - a tower of lemon custard with a candle in it.
Our total bill (including the mimosas, cava and coffee we drank): $80. Steep for brunch but not bad for a special occasion. We were given two muffins for the road.
Would I go back? Hm. Frederick is a long drive from Washington and I'm sure we can find meals as good closer to home. It was fun for a special occasion, and I can even see overnighting in Frederick if I was biking on the nearby C&O towpath or touring fall foliage.
There are photos on my website if anyone wants to check it out.
Chris
www.caroundtheworld.com
Outstanding in the Field - Ayrshire Farms
I took my husband to the Outstanding in the Fields dinner at Ayrshire Farms on Saturday. I'm not exactly sure it was worth the $180 price - although it was a fun experience to do once.
The dinner happy hour started around 3 p.m. The crowd, mostly from DC, consisted of well-heeled foodies with well-developed palates and many stamps in their passports. Dress was casual – sundresses, capris and light pants for the men (if you go, be sure to wear walking shoes – a farm is no place for heels!)
After 90 minutes, Jim Denevan introduced himself and the program. Then we split into two groups and toured the farm’s barns and gardens. One of Ayrshire’s trademarks is their devotion to humanely raising calves for veal. They are also interested in raising rare breeds, such as the Ancient White Park Cattle. Our guides were fairly earnest, as you might suspect, but also down to earth.
As far as the food goes, here’s what we had, along with the wine pairings. Most of the courses were served family style, with a fair amount of time between courses (and no bread to snack on). My notes about each course are in parenthesis afterward.
Gloucester pork rilette, Everona truffle cheese, vegetable salsa on Red Truck Bakery crostini. Firefly Farms goat cheese basil souffle with Red Truck Bakery potato bread. Wine- Glen Manor 2008 New World Sauvignon Blanc,
(These were passed out as we were waiting for the program to begin. Honestly, these appetizers were fairly average – and not as plentiful as you might expect for a group that big. As soon as the servers came out of the house, they were surrounded by people looking for food. We also thought this wine, from a Virginia winery, was a little dull.)
Chilled butternut squash soup with mead creme fraiche. Wine- Glen Manor 2007 Old World Sauvignon Blanc.
(This cold soup was thick and creamy, really just lovely on an afternoon with termperatures in the low 80s. We also liked this wine better than the first.)
Confit of Ayrshire guina hen crostada, served with Boxwood Vineyards Topiary.
(For this course, we received individual pieces of what seemed like a chicken tart. We thought it was a little dry. This wine was one of my favorites for the evening, however.)
Market Garden salad with pickled Ayrshire Farm eggs, lardon of bacon and Asian pear, Srved with Boxwood Vineyards Rose.
(This salad, with a vinaigrette style dressing, truly was outstanding. Still not a fan of roses though!)
Braised rose veal shoulder with Market Garden applewood smoked onions, grilled beets and carrots. Served with Boxwood Vineyards Boxwood.
(We both liked this veal, which is the specialty of the farm. It was served almost stew style The vegetables were also quite good.)
Market Garden ground cherry & Hess Orchard apple crumble with local honey, served with Glen Manor 2001 Late Harvest Chardonnay.
(Loved this dessert, very tasty and the dessert wine was also worthwhile. By this point, the sun had set, candles were lit and the atmosphere was a little dreamy)
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So overall, was it worth it? For us, it was, considering it was a special occasion. I did think that the portions were a little skimpy, although the wine pours were plentiful. It wouldn’t hurt to have some bread or olives or something for people to nibble between courses, especially as they are downing all that wine.
Was it the best meal I ever had? Not by a long shot. Really, it was the the spectacular location that made the dinner - there’s something charming about dining in the open air, especially when you have great weather and nice views. The conversation we had with our dinner mates contributed to our enjoyment. If I did it again, I would probably sneak a few rolls into my purse!)
There are photos of the dinner on my website. Hope this was helpful.
Chris
www.caroundtheworld.com
Rome - suggestions for Easter dinner
Bumping this up....I'm realizing that we're not going to have time to get to Checchino between our Sunday Mass at the Vatican and a 2:40 tour of the Borghese Gallery. Any restaurants that are close to the Spanish Steps that could be open? As it looks like that's the closest metro stop to the Gallery.
Rome - suggestions for Easter dinner
Oh, that would be great if Checchino was open! That's on our list to try....Thanks, Maureen. I printed out the restaurant list from your website as our base.
Roman Memories--Long
rneeno, I would be interested in your list as well. My email is cegray@usatoday.com. Grazie!
Rome - suggestions for Easter dinner
Hello there, fellow Chows -
My husband and I will be in Rome over Easter (April 11-16). We know that many restaurants will be closed on Sunday and Monday for the holidays. I'm wondering if any of the experts out there have any recommendations for places that are authentic and still open on these dates. Grazie!
Chris
