/

kenjigoodeater's Profile

Question for cookbook editors/publishers

Greygarious - I'm with you on that. I developed that recipe, but it's not really one I would ever follow. But Cook's Illustrated is in the business of writing recipes for real people, and real home cooks, many of whom demand strict time constraints on how long a recipe can take. So even though personally, I save my chicken bits in the freezer and make real stock when I need it, there are many people for whom this is not an option (as in, they buy their chickens already butchered, so don't have bits to make stock with). The recipe was intended as a quick, inexpensive, and easy way for those people to make a great tasting chicken soup at home.

I fully support anyone who says "no" to it though!

Myers and Chang - a disappointment

That was the banh mi talking, not me. I've calmed down a bit. Yes, there is space for M&C, and I have nothing against either M or C (in fact, am big fans of both).

I do, however, still think that their Thai-inflected dishes (like their som tom and Tiger's Tears - even with the red peppers) are much better than their attempts at Chinese food, or dishes that require more specialized East Asian cooking techniques. The Thai inspired dishes are mostly about good flavor balance, which they are quite adept at (the exception being that god-awful banh mi), while the wok dishes require technique and years of practice. It's a bit conceited to think that some euro-trained line cook can just pick up a wok and start cooking food worthy of serving to customers, and in those cases, I think the amateur-ishness shows.

R.F. O's throwdown was an easy win. Even millions admitted that the burger didn't live up to his memories of it.

There should be a post up about it at A Hamburger Today at some point in the near future.

Myers and Chang - a disappointment

I totally agree. Had the Banh Mi for the first time yesterday, and it honestly made me feel physically sick eating it. I really had to force down half of it so as not to look toooo rude (the waiter, who seemed a little flustered, had taken his time, so made up for it by sending over some spring rolls - also virtually inedible, by the way - but seemed so genuinely sorry about the wait that I didn't want to offend him by not eating either).

Basically everything was wrong about it. The carrot/daikon slaw was shredded on a box grater and mixed with the sriracha aioli. It was totally soggy and limp and completely lacking the crisp, fresh bite that properly julienned carrots and daikon have. There was only a single sprig of cilantro in it, and it was completely wilted by the time it arrived at the table. Rather than a properly savory sauce or the great mayo in a normal banh mi, it had a horrible lobster-roll-like buttery flavor, which when combined with the fatty pork belly, was just overwhelmingly heavy.

And the bun - oh God, what an atrocity. A soft, sweet, split hoagie roll. The best part of a banh mi is the crispy crust of a really freshly baked rice-flour baguette. And to add insult to injury, it costs $9!!!

I disagree about most of the menu being very good. There are rare exceptions, like the Tiger's Tears and the ribs, but their wokked dishes are awful across the board ($15 for burnt noodles and overcooked chicken?). The cooks don't seem to understand that the way to get that nice smoky "wok-hai" flavor in a dish is NOT to burn and char the crap out of everything. And their dumplings, though pretty good, don't touch what real traditional places like Qingdao do for 1/10th of the price (literally).

This place completely reminds me of Momofuku in NY - overpriced, sub-par pseudo Asian food that people still pay lots of money for. It's really baffling to me - the only reason I can think of why people continue to patronize these places is that the (attractive) waiters all speak English.

I've never been a big fan, but things seem to have gotten much worse since Allison Hearn left as well.

J. Kenji Alt's Boston Burger Battle

Oops - do they talk about that on AHT? If so, I apologize Adam! I didn't mean to usurp your classification system!

J. Kenji Alt's Boston Burger Battle

I'm totally with you on this. I left out Bartley's on purpose because I think it's one of the most overrated burger joints in the city, if not country. Blah-city. The only reason I would have left it in would be so I could trash it and start a riot! About 90% of the responses I've got to that article are, "Great, but where's Bartley's?"

J. Kenji Alt's Boston Burger Battle

I admit - I did make it up, the East vs. West thing. It really comes down to grill vs. griddle, and in my experience, you see a lot more of the grill around here, and a lot more of the griddle out in CA. The west coast style of burger was invented out there too, in the 40's, right around the time that car culture was booming and people wanted fast, tasty food that wasn't too bulky to eat in the car. It spawned the likes of McDonald's, and eventually In-n-Out.

The article's a little overstaed - I am well aware that there are other regional styles of burgers. But in Boston, at least, up until a couple years ago, all you could get was the thick, grilled, pub-style burger (at least all you could get that was decent). It's only in the last few years that you can get a good, thin, griddled, drive-in diner style burger around here.

I haven't been to Boston Burger Co. (I flat out ban any place that uses the words "company" or "factory" in their name - with the exception of Jim Lahey's fabulous Co. in NY - best neapolitan pies in Manhattan), but if you want a really horrible burger experience, go to any of the B.Goods. Abominations of the highest order!

Super88 is Dead... Long Live CMart?

Glad that CMart is taking over? Just another generic grocery store? Where am I going to buy my galangal and pig's feet from now on?!?

Where can I find some bizarre foods resturants in Boston?

I'd say Dali is the weakest link there. Consistently mediocre food, and an atmosphere like you just stepped into spain-land at Epcot center. Love wine and cheese cask though. Only place to get real spanish chorizo witihin a 1 mile radius of my place.

Best Ricotta Pie?

I'm looking for the best ricotta pie in the NY area - any borough or suburb is ok. I'm talking about the light, fluffy, slightly grainy kind, not the smooth, dense cheesecake kind. I don't care if it's in a small Italian bakery, or on the dessert menu at a fancy pants restaurant - any price point, any location. Any thoughts?