cristina's Profile
Finding Something Chow Worth at the Mexico City Benito Juarez International Airport?
When is he flying, Jan? If it's not today, we are going to NY today (22nd) and I can scope out a bit of the airport on the way to catch the plane. The airport taxi comes in about an hour, so I'll look for your response here this evening.
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Finding Something Chow Worth at the Mexico City Benito Juarez International Airport?
Jan, inmigrado is not the same as citizenship. Nevertheless, it makes no difference to the terminal where he lands. Either his ticket or his itinerary should show the information you need.
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Rosetta for 6 for ~3000 pesos? Or am I dreaming? Is La Tecla still in business? D.F.
Re: Rosetta--3000 will be cutting it close for six. Individual checks can run 400 and up.
Re: La Tecla--I just called them for you and all three of them are open and ready for you. One is in Polanco, one on Revolución, and the third is in Roma.
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All-Inclusives that don't suck...
Here's an excellent resource for finding exactly what you want. My friend Brad Johnson, one of the most widely-acclaimed travel and restaurant reviewers in the world, has reviewed the best of the best. Look down the right-hand side of his blog page for plenty of information.
http://blog.bradajohnson.net/
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What's "in season" in Mexico during the month of May?
Hey Socks, I live in the DF, in la Condesa. Email me patalarga@baddog.com if you want to talk.
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9+ days in Mexico City: The Trip Report
Either one, Kate. If you have read this whole thread, you know that I prefer Dulce Patria.
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Zocalo, Mexico City
At El Cardenal Hilton Alameda, I like:
--the size of the room
--the greater space between the tables (not smooshed together)
--the wonderful service
--the elegance of the diners
--the presence of the owner
YMMV.
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9+ days in Mexico City: Where should we EAT?!
Pujol is very different from Dulce Patria, just as cacti are very different from gladiola. IMHO, one restaurant is harder-edge than the other, just as one plant is spinier than the other.
I have nothing whatsoever against Pujol, I simply prefer Dulce Patria.
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9+ days in Mexico City: The Trip Report
I'm surprised as well that you were not thrilled by Dulce Patria. I am assuming that you knew you were going for an experience of *alta cocina mexicana*, something that bears very little relationship to tacos on the street or a sitdown meal at El Popular (glad you enjoyed that!)
Traditional Mexican food falls into two main categories: street food and home cooking. Until fairly recently, there has been no real culture of traditional Mexican fine dining *outside the home*. You tried a lot of street food and low-end dining, but if your only experience of alta cocina mexicana wasn't within the context and frame of reference of understanding what that means, then I can certainly understand why you had a less-than-stellar experience at Dulce Patria. It must have been hard to 'get' it. The chef's takes on truly traditional Mexican cooking is stupendous.
I'd be interested in knowing what time of the evening you were there. If it was much before 9 or 10PM, I'm not surprised that you were underwhelmed by the patrons' dress. Mexican mealtime is so different from mealtime in the USA; what you might think of as lunch is really Mexico's comida (main meal of the day), eaten between 3 and 5PM. If you go at 1 or 2PM, the restaurant will be pretty much empty. Supper (cena) is normally a very light meal at home, but if you go out to eat formally in the evening, things don't start till quite late. Between comida and cena, you ordinarily find the 'B' team working in a restaurant kitchen, and you ordinarily find people eating in off-hours clothing.
The last time I was at Dulce Patria (here: http://mexicocooks.typepad.com/mexico_cooks/2012/04/sweet-home-mexico-restaurante-dulce-patria-and-chef-martha-ortiz.html), ALL of the patrons were dressed, as you said, to the nines: sleek suits for the men, lovely high-end dresses or pants outfits for the women. We felt a bit like the country mice, if the truth be known, no matter how well-dressed we were.
Your comment "But given that folks in Mexico City dress a little more casual than your average US person does on a daily basis I expected a sharper crowd," really puzzles me. On the other hand, you spent most of your time in the Centro, where the ritzy crowd really doesn't go very often. Polanco during the day and late in the evening, Santa Fe during business hours, the mid-part of Reforma--you would have seen style and fashion that would have far surpassed what you might see in the States. As I probably said at some point during the long thread prior to your visit, you can't begin to understand Mexico OR Mexico City in one visit.
Anyway, I'm glad you liked your trip to Mexico City. You wrote a great trip report! Come back to see us.
PS: Soul Vole, I'm going for breakfast with Enrique Olvera on Tuesday and looking forward to it! Not to Pujol, of course, just out to breakfast.
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9+ days in Mexico City: Where should we EAT?!
Dulce Patria is a very warm, sensual environment. The decor is black, white, and a lot of wine-y red (as you can see in the photos), with lots of flowers, lots of gorgeous upholstery, and the emphasis on the client's comfort and delight in the food. Service is attentive but in no way obtrusive. Every detail of the decor has a Mexican cultural significance.
The Pujol environment, IMHO, is much harder-edge--for example, plastic chairs rather than upholstered chairs, tables much closer together, etc. It looks like a generic albeit upscale restaurant.
I can best tell you the difference in the spaces by saying that the flowers on the tables at Dulce Patria are gladiolas. The 'flowers' on the tables at Pujol are cacti.
For comida (Mexico's main meal of the day), the dress code at both is absolutely suits, dress shirts and ties, and leather shoes for men. For women, it is not flashy but extremely high-end, high quality dresses, pantsuits, and very good shoes. And don't go at 2PM--go at 3PM, when 'everyone' eats.
If you are staying in a hotel, have your desk personnel make reservations for you at either restaurant.
9+ days in Mexico City: Where should we EAT?!
Price information is at the end of the article, where the address and phone number are.
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9+ days in Mexico City: Where should we EAT?!
Budlit, if it were me, I'd skip Pujol and head straight for Dulce Patria. Make it your one big splurge, you won't regret it.
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9+ days in Mexico City: Where should we EAT?!
HEY KUKABURA! We're waiting for your trip report!
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San Miguel de Allende Restaurants
What do you think about either the main dining room or the rooftop bar at the Rosewood, or both? Just curious...
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Mail Order Artisan Products
You will want to read this:
http://www.fda.gov/Food/InternationalActivities/Imports/default.htm
What you are proposing is probably not feasible.
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Mango Sticky Rice
I had MSR at Thai Kitchen in La Jolla and thought it was outstanding.
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Out of Print Books
I have been in constant contact with Larousse for the last year--they are using some of my photos in the new Spanish-language edition of the Diccionario. The book was scheduled to be published in January 2012. In their last communication, they said that it was delayed, but they did not give me a publication date.
Out of Print Books
Indigo, if you email me (patalarga@baddog.com), I'll let you know what the shipping cost would be. The bookstore doesn't send stuff, but I can.
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Out of Print Books
The English translation was a joint effort among three people, one of whom was me.
Ah yes, the flight...well, I'm afraid that's not included in the 100 pesos. But if you want a set and are coming down again sometime soon, I'll go on Monday and grab one for you. Same offer to anybody else here. The bookstore is one of those remaindered bookstores that are all over the city.
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Out of Print Books
Indigo, it is about to be re-published in Spanish AND in English. Larousse is publishing the expanded and enlarged Spanish version--it was originally scheduled to be out in January, but as usual, there have been some delays. When Larousse lets me know the final publication date, I will post here.
The translation is finished for the English-language version, but I don't have the scheduled publishing date yet and I don't know which publishing house in the States is handling it.
If you are interested in the accompanying sectional recetarios that Clio published for the original Diccionario (there are about 30 of them), a bookstore near my house has them (still sealed in plastic) for 100 pesos for each entire set. I would be happy to pick up a set for you--and for anyone else on the CH Mexico board. You have to come pick them up, though.
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Zocalo, Mexico City
El Cardenal is great for breakfast--my personal preference is for the one at the Hilton Hotel, several blocks west of the Zócalo.
Other choices: Azul Histórico at Isabel la Católico #30. Café El Popular, on 5 de Mayo--it's a 24-hour-a-day Mexico City institution.
Where not to go: Café Tacuba, which is resting on very old laurels. Atmosphere is pleasant, but the food is a disaster. Unless you go for breakfast, which is okay.
There are a couple of recent threads about Mexico City eating which you should take a look at--especially the one starting with 9+ Days in Mexico City.
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Food and Wine Magazine features Streetgourmetla in Tijuana
Three cheers for Bill! He is one of--no, he is THE most knowledgeable person I know in matters of tacos, taquerías, and the general delights of Tijuana's scene. And he's a really great guy, too.
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Jean George Steakhouse at the St. Regis
Dulce Patria is the completely worthy heir to Aguila y Sol. I was there this past Thursday, Mar. 8. Do NOT miss it.
Azul Histórico is a more attractive space than Azul Condesa; the menus are identical. Both are marvelous.
The wonderfully traditional El Bajío definitely trumps Fonda El Refugio.
The St. Regis has recently changed chefs. I haven't been there with the new man on board.
Breakfast at El Cardenal in the Hilton Hotel Alameda is a do-not-miss.
If when you say 'dinner' you mean a full-on evening meal (cena), then yes, late. I would say 9PM at the earliest. If when you say 'dinner' you mean 'comida', Mexico's main meal of the day, then 3PM.
El Bajío is not open at night, so you would want to go there for comida.
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9+ days in Mexico City: Where should we EAT?!
Kukubura, the ATM fraud situation you describe was at the time of that thread unique to the region along the north shore of Lake Chapala--a string of small towns catering to the foreign community--and no longer exists as described in your link. You are not going anywhere near Lake Chapala--Mexico City is eight hours east of there. ATM fraud is no more prevalent in Mexico (the country) than it is in the USA.
Acquiring a BofA account is a good move, but using a credit card to obtain cash is not. You will be charged up the wazoo for using a credit card for cash advances and/or purchases in Mexico.
Naturally you will make your own choice about how to deal with getting cash in Mexico, but please note: the large foreign population at Lake Chapala is largely ignorant of other parts of Mexico outside its enclave, gets hysterical over certain things that have relatively simple solutions, and is not representative of Mexico as a whole. Trust me, I lived there for several years and personally know many of the people who posted on that thread.
I have used an ATM card for cash withdrawals all over Mexico and have never experienced fraud. Naturally YMMV, but...
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9+ days in Mexico City: Where should we EAT?!
If you have a Bank of America account, use your ATM card ONLY at Banco Santander and Scotiabank. They have an agreement with BofA and charge NO international transaction or currency exchange fees for BofA card use. The exchange rate that I normally get from Santander or Scotiabank is usually better than the bank's advertised rate.
You will see any number of *casas de cambio*--money exchange booths--at the airport and in the city. Their exchange rates are awful--use ATMs instead, even at the airport.
Be sure to notify your bank BEFORE you leave home that you will be in Mexico from XX date to YY date. Otherwise they will stop all use of your ATM and credit card for what they think is fraudulent use. Ask your bank to up your daily ATM withdrawal limit, too. You may be limited in individual ATM withdrawals, but with a higher daily limit you can make multiple withdrawals from the same ATM every day.
Be very, very careful about using credit cards here. Your credit card company will add between 1 and 3% as a foreign usage fee to the price of anything you buy--and unlike what DD mentioned above, my experience is that the exchange rate when using a credit card is really not as attractive as the exchange rate from an ATM. Plus, if you don't pay your credit card in full each month, you'll have its interest charges to deal with.
I have never seen a Costco anywhere in Mexico that offers a money exchange service. If you pay cash or use a debit card at a Costco (in pesos, of course) there is a small price reduction on your purchase. If you pay with a credit card, you are hit with a 3% price INCREASE. On the other hand, why would you buy a 36-roll package of toilet paper while you're here? LOL...
Don't bother with travelers' checks. They are a major hassle here. For example, many banks won't cash them any more. If you manage to find one that does, the exchange rate sucks. And furthermore, if your signature on your travelers' checks does not PERFECTLY match the signature on your passport, you will not be allowed to cash them. Mexico is very picky about signatures.
I once again offer a market or other tour; email me if you like. patalarga@baddog.com Many CH'ers have toured with me and loved it.
And by the way, your two major restaurant picks are fabulous. I just dined at Dulce Patria on Thursday--it was stellar in every respect. Suit and tie, though, and really good but not fancy clothes for women. Bring $$$$. Have your hotel make a reservation for you. The average check for one diner is about 650-700 pesos, plus drinks and tip.
Ah, and one last thing: at the airport, you will find taxi booking booths just to the side of the baggage claim area. Book and pay for your taxi to the hotel at one of those booths. And remember that when you arrive at your hotel, the driver expects no tip and you should not offer one.
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Dulce Patria
Just back from an incredible meal at Dulce Patria. Dress code update for Indigo: men, very well dressed in fine suits and ties. Women VERY well dressed--not fancy fancy, but obviously expensive clothing and excellent shoes. Just FYI, the Scotch on the table by the window: Glenlivet for her, Johnny Walker Blue for him--and lots of it for both.
Food was exquisite, as was the service. Report to follow on Mexico Cooks!, first Saturday in April.
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Favorite mole?
My new favorite mole is mole negro from Oaxaca. I don't know if it is available anywhere in San Diego, but if it is...run do not walk. Subtle, layered, spicy, a wee touch of sweet...wow. If you're ever in Mexico City, I'll take you to the best I've tasted...
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Dulce Patria
The men I see there usually have on suits and ties. The women dress correspondingly well.
I'm going again on Thursday Mar 8 and will post back, if you are not going before that date.
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Fujianese (Fukienese) Pork Chops
Me too, E.Kantro. I used to go there for the pork chops and to the Joy Luck on Mott Street--the Joy Luck prepared periwinkles in a hoisin-chile sauce that were out of this world. I managed to get that recipe and prepared them often at the restaurant where I worked in the mid-70s. Stir-fried periwinkles sound like stir-fried marbles in the wok!
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Oaxaca meals, and......Marco Polo downhill?
Search this board for La Teca. Wonderful...
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