sderham's Profile
Guided Burgundy Wine Tours
Diana also helps plan your entire visit, and recommends hotels and restaurants, whatever you need.
Guided Burgundy Wine Tours
I have two suggestions for you. I am a guide in the Rhone Valley, and I have referred clients to two places in Burgundy, and got great feedback on both. I have never used them since I already know Burgundy quite well.
1. Diana Williams,an American, is a former Olympic Athelete and is married to winemaker Alex Gambal.
http://www.thehiddenfrance.com/
She has only longer trips on her website but don't hesitate to ask about 1 or 2 day tours; I know that she is happy to do them. If you write, please tell her that Sharon from Vaison referred you.
2. Bourgogne Avec Chauffeur
http://www.bourgogne-avec-chauffeur.com/english-pages
Some American chef/sommelier clients (And other friends) used them and highly recommend them. Their site looks like they are just chauffeurs, but apparently they have attended wine school.
Sunday lunch in the Vaucluse
Thanks for the comments. I hadn't heard about Auberge des Carrieres--will try it.
Sunday lunch in the Vaucluse
The Jardin du Quai is good, but way too expensive, since there is no choice on the menu. But I guess since tons of people are in L'Isle on Sunday, they get lots of business. Tourists may not care how much they spend. Week night menus are cheaper.
Have heard they have new owners. Can anyone confirm?
Patricia Wells: Food Lover's Guide to Paris is an IPHONE app!
I just saw that Patricia Wells has finally updated her Food Lover's Guide to Paris, and it is available as an app for the IPHONE, IPAD, and ITOUCH. I know that she has been working on this very hard for over a year, eating out constantly in Paris. : - )
Here is some info from the site: http://www.foodloversparis.com/
Discover more than 350 of the city’s ultimate culinary destinations, updated for 2012 and tested by Patricia and her team, with concise overview details and focused, dependable commentary. Includes Patricia’s discriminating selection of Paris restaurants, cafes, wine bars, bakeries, pastry shops, chocolate shops, cheese shops, markets and specialty shops.
Search the app contents by category or neighborhood, or by particular restaurant specifics such as price, cuisine type, specialties or restaurant details like vegetarian-friendly or Michelin-star rating.
A map of Paris shows all selected addresses, with color-coded pins and GPS locations to guide you to the best restaurants, shops and markets in the vicinity, wherever you may be. Each destination includes commentary, address, contact phone number and opening hours. App users can call numbers directly, link to web sites and find relevant directions. Photos are included for many destinations.
A-Z glossary of French culinary terms to help translate menus on the spot.
More info: http://patriciawells.com/
Anything around the Camargue - Saintes Maries de la Mer?
Here is a very unusual place in Stes Maries: Chez Mimi AKA (Terre Salee), a TABLE D'hOTES
Quartier Pont-Blanc
13460 - Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
Tél. +33 (0)4.90.97.72.15
Terre Salee is a very rustic place just outside of the center of Stes maries. “Mimi”, in addition to preparing gargantuan meals at her table d’hote, also makes driftwood furniture. She is a wonderful, laid back hostess and does the entire dinner herself. If you have a minimum of 8 people you can reserve here, and will probably have the whole place to yourselves. Mimi is a good country cook, and prepares LOTS of platters of Camargue style appetizers, seafood, and then dessert. A meal will include many things, perhaps mussels, tellines, shrimp and fruit apps, tapenades, stuffed egss, cherry tomatoes with carmelized onions, and much more.
The meal is about 40-50 euros per person, and includes wine. You can probably do a meal with just apps and dessert. When we went here we were more than stuffed.
In good weather you will eat outside on rustic tables.
Mimi has written a cookbook with her recipes, with an introduction by Poppy Salinger, a friend of hers and the widow of Pierre Salinger, who spent much of his later life in Provence.
Mimi has lived in the Camargue all her life, and has a passion for cooking and fabricating art and furniture from the driftwood of the Mediterranean. We will be dining at her home amidst the treasures that she has collected. Not many get this opportunity and you will be eating the traditional foods of the area.
Anything around the Camargue - Saintes Maries de la Mer?
Yes, you can eat there without staying there. I have eaten there and done a cooking class but have never stayed.
Sunday lunch in the Vaucluse
Also:
Chez Serge in Carpentras,
Many places in L'Isle sur la Sorgue.
Sunday lunch in the Vaucluse
Coteaux et Fourchettes in Rasteau is excellent and open for Sunday lunch. Probably 29-45 euros.
Also the Beaugraviere in Mondragon. 29-45-65 euros. A favorite of mine for Sunday lunch.
Le Grand Pre, Roaix, one Michelin star, and their excellent bistro Preface, on the same site.
Aix-en-Provence, St. Tropez, Bouillabaisse, & wineries
I live in the Vaucluse and just made several trips to Aix looking for good lunch places to take friends and clients.
Clearly the best of the places I tried is Millefeuille:
8, Rue Rifle Rafle, 13100, France
+33 (0)4 42 96 55 17
Closed Sunday and Monday
Excellent place that I discovered through Fooding. Went with a sommeliere and owner of a Michelin starred resto. We both loved it, thought the service was exceptional, as well as the food. The two young but experienced owners are really concerned about their customers enjoying themselves. On a small street in old Aix. Wine list has wines from all over France; the owner/waiter opened bottles for us just so we could have a glass of something we really wanted.
L’Alcove
19 rue Constantin, 13100, Aix (North of Place Trois Ormeaux)
+33 (0)4 42 96 47 29
Excellent food, very good service. Will definitely go back.
• L’Epicurean 06 89 33 49 3; 13 Forum des Cardeurs
I thought I would have a great experience. Unfortunately this was not the case. Neither food nor service were great, nor even very good. Overpriced; more expensive that the two above, and even at a lower price I would not return.
Anything around the Camargue - Saintes Maries de la Mer?
I have eaten several times at La Telline and also attended a cooking class that Jean Paul gave to a group I was leading.
La Telline
http://www.restaurantlatelline.fr/
+33 (0)4 90 97 01 75
Route Gageron - quartier Villeneuve
13200 Arles
Lunch:Open 12-1 except Thursday
Eve: 7:30--9 pm
Closed Tuesday and Wed
35 euros
La Telline is named after the "clams in garlic cream" on the menu. (Actually, “tellines” are tiny clam-like bi-valve mollusks very popular in this area of the Mediterranean.)
Other popular dishes include wood grilled eel from a local pond (etang), bull (taureau) chops, and fish served simply with perhaps local Camargue rice and a salad. All products are local.
It is located in a typical (and beautiful) Camargue style house so far out that you think you are lost. You must pass Gagneron, and keeping going towards Villeneuve. A nice touch, they have large wine glasses, which is not common in France. Wine is very reasonably priced.
The dining room is small, has about 7 antique walnut tables, with a huge central fireplace where the chef will cook your “taureau” (bull—specialty of the Camargue.)
Jean Paul and Florence have built some chambres d'hote next to the restaurant.
Recs in the Luberon: Rousillon, Gordes, Menerbes, Bonnieux
Thanks to boredough and Parigi for their suggestions. I had wanted to eat at the eastern end of the Luberon, so I will keep the suggestions for spring when I think they will be open: Cour de la Ferme, Cheval Blanc, Sanglier Paresseux.)
I was in Rousillon, and thought I would try Restaurant David, since a friend often goes there. It was closed, so armed with review from "L'Internaute--restos" we went to Le Piquebaure Chez Mme Lulu.) Just below town on the D169.
This is not a restaurant in a shiny, restored mas "Luberon" style. It is in an older Provencal building on the side of the road. There is a back dining room with magnificent views of the mountains. Sophie, the very competent chef, explained the daily special. She says that her Anglo customers have taught her how to cook meats the way they like them. The meal was creative and very well prepared but the ambance decidedly casual. Local ingredients. And only about 22 euros.
Restaurants for near Perpignan and in Northern Rhone
In January of this year I went with some friends to the Marche aux Vins de Cote Rotie. We were planning to eat at both of these restaruants, but since someone was ill, we had to skip the first, but not because we thought it would be less good.
Bistro de Serine
16 BLvd Allees, Ampuis
+33 4 74 48 65 10
Wine bar, restaurant and wine shop, focusing on the wines of the Northern Rhone. Seems that Pierre Gaillard, Yves Cuilleron, Jean-Michel Gerin and François Villard own the bistrot. Supposed to be excellent food; can't wait to go back up to the northern Rhone.
Auberge de la Source
69420 Tupin-Semons
+33 4 74 59 54 03
Went there for lunch during the wine show. It was packed with people from the show, so I am not sure that was representative of the cusine. It is good, but not memorable. However the setting truly is memorable, as is the drive to get to the restaurant. You climb steep roads through the vineyards, usually with no guardrails. Best to try the drive first during the day!
I know some excellent places in Tain l'Hermitage if that is of interest.
Recs in the Luberon: Rousillon, Gordes, Menerbes, Bonnieux
Hi,
Can anyone recommend a few very good (but not high end spots) in the Luberon, especially for lunch? Many places are still closed now, and do not open until Easter. At the moment I am especially interested in Rousillon, Gordes, Menerbes, and Bonnieux.ci
I have gone through the long listings on the Luberon and most of the places are everyone's favorite high end restaurants, and many are closed.
Anyone eat at Maison Gouin in Coustellet lately? I haven't been since May 2010 since they were a bit unfriendly and difficult then--SO very different from when I used to eat there a few years back.
Merci.
vietnamese food in paris
I ate at Co Tu a few weeks ago with a French friend. The meal was totally unacceptable. The place smelled like disinfectant, the water tasted of chlorine, the nems were hard and tasteless. The waitress knew almost nothing about the dishes, except that the restaurant did not make most of their nems. My shrimp dish was ok.
I do know something about Vietnamese food, having lived around San Francisco for 30 years, and studying Vietnamese cuisine in Vietnam with the CIA--Culinary Inst Amer, St Helena.)
Truffles
By the way, "60 Minutes" with Leslie Stahl was in Vaison la Romaine this past February to film a piece on truffles at Patricia Wells' home. Then they went to Italy to film. Supposed to air this fall.
Truffles
Why not take a quick TGV ride to Avignon (2 h 40 min) to the Rhone Valley. Visit a truffle market (Friday Carpentras) or Saturday Richerenches. There are restaurants in both towns that feature truffles, but for the absolute best go to the Beaugraviere in Mondragon for their ALL TRUFFLE menu, about 125 euros or so for a truffle feast. They also have less expensive truffle menus. The best known place in the Rhone Valley for truffles (where 80% of black truffles originate,) and also one of the best in France.
Chateauneuf du Pape Visit
I live in the southern Rhone, and have tried to visit Clos des Papes several times. I have called and been told that they are open, but when I got to the winery (mid-afternoon) no one was there. Several other times I have tried just stopping by (it is in the center of Chateauneuf, so an easy stop) it was also closed.
I don't find Chateau la Nerther "touristy" at all. They do have the most beautiful estate in Chateauneuf, and they make my favorite white wine. They have a small tasting bar, which is usually open, and the staff is always extremely gracious. I often take friends there.
Of course I have been to Beaucastel many times, but it is hard to schedule tastings and visits there. Often they just suggest that you buy a bottle or two (55 euros each) and sit in the tasting room and taste alone.
Recently I tried Domaine Juliette Avril in the center of Chateauneuf, and enjoyed both the reasonably priced wines (around 16 euros per bottle) and the visit with the mother of the winemaker. Traditional, small winery.
I have visited many other places once or twice, but none that I recommend at the moment. I do enjoy tasting at Vinadea in the center of town. It is run by the winemakers "syndicative", and they offer 6-10 wines per day to taste, all contributed by the winemakers. I have discovered some excellent wines this way.
recs for dinner in St. Remy, Aix en Provence and Paris please
I was at the Mas des Carassins with a small group for 4 nights in May. We had terrific meals there as well. However I went back at the end of June, and sent some friends there, and the quality had greatly declined. I think the chef may have changed, and am trying to find out.
16 Days in Provence and the proposed Itinerary and Restaurants
Hi,
I don't know L'Oulo.
Coteaux and Fourchettes: just had lunch there yesterday and dinner last fall when it opened. Excellent wine list and service, most of the food was excellent except for a vegetable garnish. Will go back soon. Opened by the former chef at L'Oustalet.
St Hubert: country restaurant with terrace in this small village. Run by a family for 3 generations. Food is good but not creative and usually large portions. Popular in the area.
L'Oustalet: usually quite good buy pricy (for France) but I had a disastrous dinner last January when I went with some people from a Patricia Wells class. No one else in the restaurant but service was an abomination. Excellent wine list.
Le Tourne au Verre: very popular wine bar and bistro in Cairanne. Lunch is around 14 euros for 3 courses, dinner is 23 euros. About 15 wines by the glass at food prices.
salad in arles or environs
Do you really think that all the salads and vegetables that they serve really come from their own garden? the garden isn't really that big.
Best Foodie Base Camp in Provence
I live in Vaison la Romaine and often visit both the Luberon and the St Remy area. Both are gorgeous, have tons of Provencal charm, and great places to eat. Arles is a beautiful town but too busy and yes, out of the way. So for me either the Luberon or St Remy have what you are looking for.
I agree with jeremyholmes that the Chateau des Alpilles is a wonderful, authentic place to stay and I have been there many times. Another excellent choice is the Mas des Carassins in St Remy. Its advantage over the Chateau des Alpilles is that it is an easy 8 min stroll to the center of St Remy; Chateau Alpilles is a bit further and on a road with no berm. Service is great at the Carassins and the rooms --especially in the new part--are great. They have two swimming pools and a beautiful garden. I was there with 8 American women in May and they all loved the hotel. ( I also spent two more weeks in St Remy recently.)
St Remy has lots of great shopping (some high end places) whereas in the Luberon there are mainly just daily markets to visit plus some small shops. St Remy has many restaurants that you can walk to and there is a nice Provencal life in town. It is clearly high end.
The Luberon is high end as well, and has great places to eat though you will probably have to drive to most of them.
Saignon is WAY out of the way and Goult is too tiny and far as well (unless that is what you are looking for.) The Luberon is easily accessible (1/2 hour) from St Remy.
Regarding wineries, nothing in these areas compare to the southern Rhone (Cotes du Rhone, Chateauneuf du Pape) though Chateauneuf is just a 45 min drive from St Remy, unless you are stuck in Avignon traffic.
16 Days in Provence and the proposed Itinerary and Restaurants
Confidoie: I will pass on your comments about the Cotes du Rhone from Domaine Roche Audran to the young owner/winemaker, Vincent Rochette. They are locate in Buisson, near St Romain de Malegarde. (http://www.roche-audran.com/; he speaks some English if anyone wants to visit. He will be happy to see this comment. Vincent makes wonderful white and red Cotes du Rhone, plus some late harvest wines. Last year he bought a small parcel of Chateauneufdu-Pape and has produced his first wine from it, which got Rober Parker's attention.
Opinions on our Michelin stars during a 4 1/2 week trip through southern france?
Hi,
I live in Provence. Last June I had lunch at La Chassagenette with some friends from the Napa Valley. VERY disappointing. We had a first course of very starchy and large peas with ecrevisses (the ecrevisses were good) but the peas totally out of season. We asked the sommelier to choose a local wine for us. It was still fermenting in the bottle!! We asked about the wine, the sommelier insisted it was the way it should be. Finally resorted to telling him we were from the Napa valley and actually knew something about wine. He tasted it, and finally agreed. This was a very unpleasant situation. My friends didn't want to insist but I wouldn't let it go. 38 euros was too much to pay for a bottle of bad Camargue wine. A very food knowledgeable friend has had bad experiences as well.
Good luck.
I have spent quite a bit of time recently in the Camargue preparing for small group tours and even the best places are not great. Les Tellines is the most charming of places, located in an old mas, big fireplace in the small dining room. Limited menu.
Eating near Tavel? Where to go?
I went to Collias on Sunday to check it out for the group. I didn't go to Le Castellas because it is "gastronomic" and I was looking for something a little simpler (we have a dinner that evening.) I ate at the restaurant of the (out of the way) Le Gardon Hotel --think it is called L'Oliveraie. 24 euros menu, very good.
After lunch I wandered into town and met the town doctor, who loves the US. He told me that the best place to eat at the moment is L'Alpha B (35, grand'rue , close to Le Castellas.) I stopped by the Alpha B, met the owners who invited me for a glass of rose, and a dessert; we discussed roses and French and American politics. They have 2 menus, 28 and 35 euros, everything looks great. Setting is in a vaulted room, with also a small terrace. May take the group there.
The place with by far the best view is the L'Enclos, right on the Gardon River, set amidst the cliffs and rock formations. Food is pizza, salads, etc. You can walk in the area, lounge on the river bank, etc.
The medieval town of Collias is small but very charming, and I will definitely go back to try another restaurant or two. Thanks for the suggestion and follow-up.
Suggestions for Cassis
Went back to Cassis yesterday myself. Took some guests to Paternel; the "sister" was running the tasting room and was quite charming.
Also went to Chateau Fontcreuse, right next to Paternel; no tasting room, the receptionist poured some tastes for us. Not as good as Ste Magdeleine.
Had lunch at a place on the quai, La Vieille Auberge. Had a delicious meal at a reasonable price!
Forgot to mention that at Nino I was relegated to the despised "English" room, which was actually an empty terrace, except for one other English speaking couple. The main room was much nicer. I speak fluent French, and addressed the reception in French. Was taken directly outside, given a French menu, no one spoke English to me-a good thing. But nonetheless, I guess the fact that I have an "accent" made them put me outside.
Suggestions for Cassis
Cassis Suggestions
I recently spent 4 days in Cassis preparing day trips for small groups. I tried several restaurants and wineries and wanted to pass on my thoughts, since I occasionally see questions about this gorgeous little spot.
In general food and wine Cassis is more expensive by about 30% than many parts of Provence but I guess you are paying for the chance to eat along the beautiful port, or drink the wines from the Mediterranean. But go back to the smaller streets away from the port and you find excellent food at good prices; it will also be cooler if you don’t want to have lunch in the hot sun.
Cassis is practically all hills so driving is not easy; parking is impossible on week-ends so you have to look for paid parking lots above the town. IF you are coming from Marseille there is a bus.
The Best:
Chez Gilbert: excellent fresh seafood, the best soupe de poisons I’ve had in recent memory, very nice service, excellent half bottle of Clos Ste Magdelaine. But very expensive. (134 euro /$185 lunch for two with no dessert and one half bottle of wine.)
Clos Sainte Magdelaine: rue Revestel. Supposed to be a 13.5 euro tasting charge, but “Anne Marie” received me and didn’t ask for anything. (I did buy 6 bottles as I was leaving.) She is very friendly, knowledgeable, and we had a good time. She even helped me find someone to fix a flat tire. And I really enjoyed the wines; tasted 2009 and 2010 white, and the 2010 rose. Wine is 13 euros a bottle.
Chai Cassidain: 6, rue Séverin Icard A wine bar on one of the smaller streets. In the afternoon they have tastings of local wines; free if you buy a bottle. Starting at 5:30 til at least 9 pm you can pay for wine by the glass. I had several great champagnes, along with some local wines. The tasting list is not long but still quite worth it.
Patisserie Sucr e Delices, 4 Rue Alexandre Gervais, (http://www.visit-cassis-360.com/coste_cassis_sucre_delices.html) owned by a former pastry chef of the Pourcel Brothers.
Very Good:
Fleurs de Thym: a “gastronomic” restaurant on a quiet and cool side street (18, rue Michel Arnaud) this place has been excellent the two times I went there. Very pretty Provencal dining room, with a small terrace. Menu was about 30 euros. Can be a little slow but worth it. Book ahead for week-ends.
Le Grand Bleu: smallish place at 12 quai Baux, with terrace and inside seating. Family owned and run and an excellent value. Great “moules a la Provencale” the day after the bad ones at Nino; very well prepared whole “merlan” (whiting?) at half the price of a whole fish a Chez Gilbert. Good service.
Bonaparte, 14 r Gén Bonaparte: Saw this one on Chowhound so I had to try it. Very reasonable prices. Very good, though not excellent cuisine (the salad nicoise was doused in red wine vinegar but otherwise good salad); the fish was very good. The gregarious owner, who is starting his 40th year there, wanders the dining room chatting with customers after service.
Paternel: Enjoyed the wines and the views, but the owner, who was in the tasting room, wasn’t terribly helpful or pleasant. About 11-13 euros a bottle.
Don’t Bother.
I don’t know where Chez Nino got its wonderful reputation but I had a terrible meal there. Very unappetizing presentations. Hard, over-cooked “moules a la provencale” and a less than ordinary fish. Mediocre service.
Villa Madie: I had a reservation to eat here but after reading the very inconsistent French reviews (http://www.linternaute.com/restaurant/restaurant/12398/la-villa-madie.shtml) and talking to a friend who had eaten there, I cancelled. Not willing to take a chance with such an expensive meal.
Eating near Tavel? Where to go?
I am taking a group of 8 American women to the Pont du Gard, and would like to find a decent bistro, etc. Don't want to go to Uzes since it is out of the way. Tavel is on our way to our next stop (Vaison) and am wondering if anyone has had any decent food there. The reviews of the Auberge de Tavel are very inconsistent, as are those of La Genestiere. Le Vieux Castillon is too expensive for that day.
Fabulous new restaurant in the Luberon, 45 minutes from Avignon
Merci infiniment, Lexy! Will try it soon. Do you live around Saigon? I live in Vaison.
