fishskis's Profile
I'm no longer recommending Le Cinq for lunch (review)
Over the past few years I have been to Le Cinq for lunch no fewer than five or six times, most recently this past December. Le Cinq has consistently offered, the most enjoyable three star lunch experience (even though it is "only" 2 stars) of any of the top lunch deals I have had in Paris*. I have rarely experienced such great meals at such a relatively low price. Guy Savoy's internet special is a close second; and frankly, it is a toss up between the two. These are my two go-to recommendations, as they are accessible, consistent, and wonderful at guest relations.
Changing one's reservations based upon one or two internet reviews by strangers is a mistake. I almost made this mistake after reading some unflattering reviews of Josephine Chez Dumonet, a restaurant that I now enjoy greatly. Restaurants have off days, as do diners and reviewers. People have different taste (e.g. Les Papilles is one of the most universally praised places on this site; I did not enjoy it at all); so trust your choices and experience the restaurants you choose for yourself.
(*Though my personal favorite is L'Astrance).
Sushi, Kaiseki, High-end Dining (again...) [Tokyo, Kyoto, other...] - Beware, long post !
I have no firsthand experience with the annex; I have never been there. I have had multiple knowledgable people tell me that the annex is a lesser experience, and not the same as the original.
I am going through the same dilemma now: whether or not to re-book Hiiragiya (or maybe try Tawayara) for my upcoming trip. (Though my first experience was so special, I fear the second time will pale by comparison. This seems to be the case every time I love a restaurant, then re-visit it the next night or a couple of days later - the second time always seems to disappoint.). When you factor in the kaiseki dinner and the breakfast, as one person, you are really paying about what you would for a nice Kyoto hotel (around $300/night) plus a nice dinner ($100-$300). There are certainly other ryokans that are less expensive, and those that do not require you to have dinner (though I think this an important part of the experience, especially for the first time visitor). Frankly, one of the downsides for me as I think about returning is that with the kaiseki dinner, you can end up staying in the room a lot, so you "sacrifice" a night out trying other restaurants. It is also a rather structured environment, which I do not love; you have to tell them in advance when you want dinner, when you want the futon made up, when you want to wake up and have breakfast.
This is not just another night at another hotel; it is a complete cultural experience, and something completely unique in terms of dining and sleeping. It is hard to say what the experience is "worth"; some would say the memories will be priceless. They are for me.
Yam'Tcha or Agapé Substance for lunch ?
I think Passage 53 is very good; I thoroughly enjoyed my dinner there. Agape Substance was fantastic; I liked it much more than Passage 53, and it was a far superior value. (Also, I rarely complain about small portions, but my meal at Passage 53 was definitely on the light side, bordering on not enough food, Agape Substance was the opposite of this.).
I have never been able to get a table at Yam'Tcha, after trying many times through many hotels, and on my own, with plenty of notice, so I have given up on them.
Sushi, Kaiseki, High-end Dining (again...) [Tokyo, Kyoto, other...] - Beware, long post !
I just came to this board to research Kyoto and Tokyo since I am planning to return in a few months. I do not know much about Tokyo or Kyoto, but I did stay at Hiiragiya, the original, not the annex. I have not been to the annex, but I understand it is not a comparable experience.
I would highly recommend spending one night in Hiiragiya or another ryokan. Staying at Hiiragiya was one of the most unique and profoundly enjoyable experiences I have had. To be honest, I did not love the kaiseki dinner there, though it is reputed to be among the best. (Then again, I had kaiseki at Kitcho (Tokyo) a few years and didn't love that either.). I would describe the dinner experience as very enjoyable and interesting and unique, but there were a few items that I just did not love. Japanese breakfast was great, and the overall experience was extraordinary.
The prices are person, and they depend on the size of the room. When you consider the price, remember that the room includes a kaiseki dinner (worth approximately $200, give or take?) and formal japanese breakfast; taking this into account makes the price much more understandable.
Do not pass up the opportunity to experience Hiiragiya, or a comparable ryokan.
La Régalade (original location) - Rio Yeti report
Thanks for the report. Just thinking about the squid ink shrimp risotto makes me want to get on a plane.
I love the original La Regalade. I strongly prefer it over CLJ, which has disappointed me a bit the last two visits. Jego is brilliant, but I have experienced food there that I did not love, and the value equation seems to have changed a little. Also, sometimes the place is just too crowded/bustling/jammed for me to enjoy it.
I have never had a not-great meal LR; one of my favorite restaurants anywhere in the world.
Brasserie Lipp
They have seating upstairs; perhaps you can pre-book a private or semi-private area.
More Paris 3-star help
My recent lunch experience at Le Meurice was, as Souphie said, less than stellar. The room is gorgeous and the service is excellent; but the food was, the least impressive of any lunch I have had at a two star or three star. The amuses were very nice, and one of the desserts was excellent, but the main course was a bland, boneless, skinless breast of chicken with mustard sauce; plain, boring, risk-free, and tasteless.
Paris Impressions
I think it is great for lunch, and great for solo dining. You will likely be at the communal table. I understand dinner reservations are getting difficult, but you should be ok a week or so in advance for lunch. Enjoy.
Paris Impressions
I just returned from (almost) a couple of weeks in Paris. The rain and grey skies got the better of me, and I did not love my favorite city as much as usual this trip. I did have some wonderful meals, however.
All of these places have been written about extensively, and in much detail. Here is my nod to Meg Zimbeck’s Haiku review La Bigarrade. Caution: I have never written a Haiku – Let’s call these Haiku-esque.
L’AGAPE SUBSTANCE
A small jewel shines
Brilliant creations tasting sublime
The perfect restaurant
PASSAGE 53
Talented chef loves fish
Tasty complex creative small
Expensive still hungry
LA REGALADE (the original)
Dependably great
Shrimp risotto is heaven
Generous food small euros
LA REGALADE ST. HONORE
So central so easy
Food inferior to original
But still very good
CHEZ L’AMI JEAN
Too peripatetic
Food good not great too salty
Stomach is very full
LE CINQ
Best Michelin lunch
They are losing money on me
Great room great food mmmmm
LA COUPOLE
Tartare Frites and Foie
I should go to brasseries more
Surprisingly good
BON MARCHE GRAND EPICERIE
Beautiful goodies
Smoked salmon foie gras blinis
Wallet is empty
Paris Restaurant Itinerary: A Report
Thanks for the report. I wonder how long it will be until Le Chateaubriand's reputation will match its far inferior reality. I have been twice; the second time to see if my first time was an aberration. Though my second visit was marginally better than my first, I found the food mediocre and the portions small; I have not tasted one thing I thought was great at this restaurant. I also left hungry both times (something I have not experienced at any other Paris restaurants,including those offering "lighter" food, such as L'Astrance and Saturne). How many times have I heard from people I know, as well as people I do not know, writing reviews or reports, how disappointed they were in Le Chateaubriand, and how they cannot believe it is on the "Top 50 Restaurants in the World" list. The emperor has no clothes.
L'Auberge de l'Ile
I love this restaurant. Beautiful setting, great food, wonderful, but not stuffy service. Been twice and enjoyed both experiences immensely. Note, however that I have not been in over five or six years.
Paris report - La Bigarrade, Kei, Neva
Thank you for your report. I had previously planned to go to La Bigarrade on my last trip, but decided not to go after hearing similar reactions to yours. I learned on my last trip that the risk is bigger when one has no choice; if the chef has an off day or serves one or two items which you don't like, disappointment is inevitable. And the more cutting edge the cuisine, the higher the likelihood of the chef taking risks. So that, and the fact that la Bigarrade is on the other side of Paris (from my usual perspective at least), made my decision easy.
So, on my next trip in a couple of weeks, and for a couple of weeks, I have reduced the number of bookings where I have no choice....Wait, that's not really true: L'Astrance, which I love...Saturne, which I like a lot....Passage 53 and L'Agape Substance, which I really want to try....So I guess I have booked 4 no-choice meals for a two week trip; hopefully they will be more enjoyable than your experience at La Bigarrade.
Thanks also for the link to Meg Zimbeck's review; that was priceless!!
Naples, Sorrento and Positano Pizza (and other food)
Thanks. I have decided to spend a day in Naples and not overnight. So i will get to the city, and to try the pizza.
Naples, Sorrento and Positano Pizza (and other food)
Forgive the naivete of this question. I am going to the Amalfi Coast for the first time next month, and I am currently supposed to stay in Naples for a night; a significant reason I am doing this is to try the pizza. But I have heard such bad things about Naples (garbage, crime etc.), that I am reconsidering stopping there. If I miss it, will I regret it? Do Sorrento and Positano offer pizza comparable to Naples, or is it something one must try only in Naples? Any specific pizza suggestions in these towns?
Also, any general advice on restaurants in Positano, Sorrento and Capri is appreciated. I am looking for simple, authentic Italian, possibly places not completely inundated with tourists (even though I am one), as well as one or two "special" place (Hotel Il San Pietro?).
Thank you.
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Il San Pietro
Via Laurito,2, Positano, Campania , IT
Agape substance- making a reservation
Emailed from a different address, received a prompt reply confirming a reservation. Easy.
Agape substance- making a reservation
I had the same experience. I will try again too.
One night in Paris - Chez L'Ami Jean, Le Fontaine de Mars, Chez Dumonet...
Maybe you could try calling them and asking them; they will be the only ones who can definitively answer the question of a specific date and time.
One night in Paris - Chez L'Ami Jean, Le Fontaine de Mars, Chez Dumonet...
Chez Dumonet.
If you are at all sensitive about close tables, as you seem to be, do not even consider Chez L'Ami Jean for a minute. I also would not call the food at CLJ traditional. Chez Dumonet is a French bistro as one imagines it, as is it's menu; foie gras, duck confit etc. etc.
Bakeries, Charcuteries in the 5th?
It Jives. Rue du Petit Pont/Rue St Jaqcues is closest cross street, and one or two streets from the Seine just past Square Viviani.
Tour D'Argent Lunch?
I have for a long time viewed Tour D 'Argent as an overpriced, past-its-prime tourist Mecca with sub par food.
But....Tour D'Argent holds a very special memory for me: Going with my family when I was 13, and having a unique and incredible experience which brings me back to a simpler time on an idyllic family trip.
So I understand they have a 65 euro lunch menu, and I am thinking of trying it. Has anyone been recently? How is the food? How does it compare to other two and three stars ( I believe LTD currently has one star?)?
Thank you.
Bakeries, Charcuteries in the 5th?
Thanks all. Apparrently, I am about 300 meters from Rue Monge and Maubert, so pretty close.
Bakeries, Charcuteries in the 5th?
I am staying in a new location on an upcoming trip to Paris. I am also staying in an apartment for the first time, and I would love to know if there are any great, high quality charcuteries (including prepared foods, smoked salmon, pate, cheese, etc.) and bakeries nearby. I am very familiar with a few places in the Odeon/Rue Buci St. Germain area, as well as the Epicerie at Bon Marche, which are not too far, but are definitely out of my immediate new 'hood. I will be in the 5th, just across the Seine from Notre Dame at Rue du Petit Pont. Thank you.
Alternatives to L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon
Is it possible to agree with every post above, including the OP's response? Because I kind of do. If the OP occasionally came to Chowhound for advice and ideas, and contributed to the board as well, then no big deal really. But the picture here is rather one-sided. As for "Honesty"; in this case I would define it as disclosing the purpose of the post; in most cases, contributing Chowhounders would gladly assist.
Alternatives to L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon
I am slightly reticent to post this since I do not intend to attack the OP in any way or be overly judgmental, but I must agree with AK21. Marketing yourself as a culinary expert and having people pay you for your expertise, and then sending your clients to eat at various establishments recommended and described by Chowhound participants, which presumably you have no first-hand experience with, seems wrong. On multiple levels.
It appears that a majority of your posts are those asking for specific recommendations in different destinations; presumably you then take this information and essentially sell it to others who pay you for your service. Until this post, there was no disclosure that this was the case; I applaud the OP for specifying this. I presume if some had known the reason why you were seeking information, they might have been hesitant to do your work for you for free.
10 Days in Paris....
I agree with both of you. Actually, at L'Astrance, I went through some of this "other table envy" while I was eating a pigeon dish, which I enjoyed very much; but while eating it, I was glancing at my neighbors eating the lamb dish which I really loved on my last visit there. So, I guess L'Astrance's policy is really a double-edged sword.
There is something I enjoy about leaving myself in the chef's hands, without any knowledge of what is coming. On the other hand, as my choice-less trip progressed, I missed ordering for myself. I was supposed to go to Le Cinq, which offers choices, but there was a reservation mix-up; and I was sorry I did not get to go.
Next time, for me, there will be fewer meals in the chef's total control.
10 Days in Paris....
Detailed reports are not my thing. Following are highlights (and lowlights) and reflections on my recent eating adventures in Paris.
A few random thoughts:
I am not as into 3 star Michelin experiences as I used to be; upon reflection, I attribute this fact to a few things. Firstly, I have become a little jaded; the element of newness and surprise is gone. I am no longer blown away by the wonderful service at these gastronomic palaces, I expect it. The novelty has worn off a bit. Secondly, I now understand that the lunch menu deals, while fantastic values, often don't offer the best of what the chef offers or the most desirable (pricey) ingredients, nor do they give you the luxury of choice (with some exceptions). Thirdly, these are mostly places of celebration, to be shared with a friend or a spouse or a family; experiencing them alone gets tiresome. And finally, unrealistic expectations lead to disappointment. These are great restaurants, to be sure, but we are talking about a lunch or a dinner, not anything more. Occasionally, something magical happens, when the place, the food, and the company meld to create a life-lasting memory; but this only happens when it happens. On this most recent trip, I had none of those magical experiences.
On this trip, I reduced my restaurant commitments; on my next trip, I will reduce them even more. I love having the freedom to do what I want when I want to, without too many commitments (including restaurant reservations) hanging over my head. The price for this freedom, of course, in Paris particularly, is that you risk not going to certain places that you want to.
Restaurant highlights:
Lunch at Pierre Gagnaire, formerly one of my favorite restaurants anywhere, was disappointing. While I have had dishes in the past that I did not get, or did not like, or both, this was the first time I had a mediocre experience on the whole. Also, for the first time, I did not enjoy the service, and I felt rushed (which if you knew me, you would laugh at; I am fast). The assortment of little bites for the first course was enjoyable and beautiful, but the second course of a tuna and sea breem sashimi with vegetables in a strong unpleasant sauce did not appeal to me; in fact I did not finish it. The principal course was a rabbit dish, which was fine, but nothing special; its accompaniment was a rabbit gnochi with rabbit liver; I did not like it and did not finish it after only one bite. The desserts were as always at Gagnaire, good, but not great, and the mignardises were beautiful and great tasting. The bread and butter, were, as always, exceptional. And M. Gagnaire made his usual charming round of hellos, but I suspect I will not return to this restaurant any time soon.
Lunch at Le Meurice. What a beautiful room with fantastic service. This is what a three star restaurant is supposed feel like. I had the prix fixe lunch menu, and loved the experience on the whole, but did not love the food. After nice pre-amuses of foie gras (with a-little-too-tart mousse) and smoked salmon lollipop-ish thing, there was a refreshing avocado mousse-y gazpacho type amuse that was, again, too tart for my taste. A first course of white asparagus was fine, and a second course of ham and cheese tartlette, was beautiful, tasty, but very small. Unfortunately, I did not enjoy the main course at all: a chicken breast cooked in bread, ceremoniously unveiled and de-skinned at the table, served with a mustard sauce and a large carrot. I do not generally like boneless skinless chicken breast; I did not like it here either - it was mundane and unenjoyable - not what I expect at a restaurant like this. A grand Marnier souffle for dessert was good, but an accompanying small scoop of ice cream with a crispy cookie was fantastic; there is a great dessert chef at work here.
Lunch at L'Astrance. Though I did not enjoy this meal quite as much as my last one here, I still love this restaurant. The room, the service, and the food just make me happy. This was, as usual, my favorite three star meal.
*Please note: There was an earlier post of an unfavorable review of L'Astrance, noting in particular that one table had received one dish, but his did not. It turns out that L'Astrance purposely varies the dishes from table to table so each table experiences its "Surprise" menu uniquely. It is actually quite a nice thought that they would contemplate this.
Dinner at Saturne. I loved this restaurant. I loved the room, the ambience, and the food. Smart, clean, simple, and wonderful, I would return here in a second. Surprisingly, the desserts (yes, two) were fantastic! One in particular was spectacular: it was seemingly the ever present strawberries and meringue or whipped cream, but it was so much more - it was complex with a rocket ice cream hidden under the meringue. The only hitch in the meal was that I did not enjoy the beef course, which I found too simple, lacking flavor, and the meat was not to my liking; the waiter asked me about my largely uneaten plate, and then brought over a wonderful plate of shaved Comte before dessert as a nice gesture. Loved this place!
Dinner at the original La Regalade. I still love this place, and prefer it to St. Honore (it just feels a little more authentic to me). Incredible food, incredible value. I had my favorite dish of the trip here: a generous portion entree of squid ink risotto with garlic shrimp and tiny crunchy cracklins (or croutons?) - it was simultaneously homey and complex.... I am not a big risotto guy, but I loved this.The main course of Poitrine de Cochon and the chocolate dessert were as decadent and fantastic as ever. This food blew away any of the food I had at the three-stars.
Dinner at Senderens. I did not know exactly what to expect here, but I was slightly disappointed in the experience: I expected more. Firstly, I did not understand the decor at all; the weird ceiling, and the pervasive red lighting was just a little odd to me; not horribly unpleasant, just really incongruous. I ordered a la carte, and I regret taking the waiter's advice and ordering the lamb for my main; it was a mundane, small slice of baby lamb tenderloin, under-seasoned and served with sliced eggplant, which was quite tasty. I just did not find this dish worthy of someone reputed to be one of the best chefs in the world; it was simple, even plain, and served luke warm. My starter of crispy langoustines was tasty but served almost cold. The 27 euro dessert was not enjoyable to me, and I did not finish it. I would consider going back to try other things, and I suspect there were better things to order (like the vanilla lobster perhaps?). And being open Sunday is a nice feature.
Lunch at Josephine Chez Dumonet. After reading various mixed reviews on this place, I went with slight trepidation, but I loved it. I was seated outside (my choice) and had a wonderful, (too) rich lunch. I started with the half portion of foie gras, which was excellent, followed by the main of duck confit. This was, by far, the best, richest duck I have ever had. Served with a lightly dressed perfect salad and roasted potatoes (I assume bathed in duck fat), this giant leg of duck with the thickest crispiest skin I have ever experienced was the perfect Paris bistro meal. Also, contrary to what I had heard, this lunch was a bargain for what I had. Great food, great place.
Unfortunately my rich lunch at JCD ruined my stomach for my planned dinner the same evening at Passage 53...Oh well, next time.
All in all, a great trip. Some wonderful restaurants, and a bit of revelation about what kinds of places I truly like.
Yes it's true, Chez l'Ami Jean's rice pudding is the ultimate rice pudding - Rio Yeti Report
It is the largest portion of any desert I have ever seen anywhere; two can easily share. But every time I have been there, Jego seems to serve some additional desert concoctions.
Yes it's true, Chez l'Ami Jean's rice pudding is the ultimate rice pudding - Rio Yeti Report
"I never used to like rice pudding, I'm pretty sure I still wouldn't like it in most places..."
I have never liked rice pudding either. I would agree that L'Ami Jean is the best version I have ever tasted....But I still do not like rice pudding.....even L'Ami Jean's.
uhockey's thoughts on Paris Restaurants - Part 2 - l'Arpege, Ledoyen, Jean-Francois Piege, Cafe Constant, L'Astrance,
Interesting report. Maybe I am misreading it, but it seems in the detail of each dish, there were many dishes you liked very much; whereas overall, you just didn't love the place. It seems to me that you might not have had an overall connection with the place and its vibe. (Perhaps the water error and the dog just put a bad taste in your mouth that colored your entire experience.(?).
L'Astrance is one of my favorite restaurants anywhere. I have been four (or five?) times, and I will be returning in about a week. The first time I went they had one star, then on subsequent visits, they were ascending quickly. I love everything about this place: the food, the service, the atmosphere. I have never found anything contrived about it.
Incidentally, I do not think their bread offering comes close to Ledoyen or Savoy or Gagnaire. Also, I do not love the foie gras dish the way other people do, but I do like it. I have had four wonderful meals there, and I did not feel overly stuffed after any one of them; and at each meal I have had at least two or three uniquely prepared, beautiful dishes. I enjoy the relaxed but excellent service, and I like that L'Astrance is different from other 3-stars. It is not grand, it is not formal; it is understated. I also enjoy surrendering myself to the chef and just experiencing the meal as it comes with each new course being a surprise.
I guess I will see in about a week if my feelings remain unchanged.
Senderens (and Sundays in general)
Does anybody have any recent information on Senderens? A few years ago when they reinvented themselves, I recall a tremendous amount of positive buzz; i was supposed to go a couple of times but unfortunately never made it there. It seems I don't hear much about them anymore. I recall that they are (or used to be at least) open on Sunday.
Also...Any other worthwhile restaurants open on Sunday, preferably (but not required) in the 1st, 2nd, 3rd or 4th? Preferably casual/ bistronomique.
