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Critique my Florence itinerary

just adding to Elizabeth's tips. You need to leave your name at Mario's, just don't stand in line! when you go in, Fabio will take your name and then ask how long the wait is.

it is their 60th anniversary this year- i used to live around the corner for 20 years--- always a favorite!

Apr 13, 2013
Diva in Italy

Tripe Stands of Florence

i lived right in front of the Central Market downtown, I enjoy Nerbone inside the market which also has the bollito misto sandwich, but the market closes at 2pm. First place I am going when i get home, is to Beatrice in front of the Central Market, funky odd looking stand-- but historical. adore her sauces too. lampredotto is the traditional sandwhich "tripe" in Florence, but also ask Bea, she usually has several versions available to eat in a small "box" with a fork or a sandwich.

Apr 13, 2013
Diva in Italy

Which Dante Cecchini Restaurant?

personally i adore the solociccia more than the steak place- if you want a sunday lunch or dinner. During the week my favorite is to do the lunch- upstairs where the Officina della Bistecca is. he serves a fabulous burger or a tasting menu of things from the shop, porchetta, the "tuna" del chianti, meatloaf with the pepper jelly ( my recipe from when I worked there) and the "sushi" raw marinated beef. i have written up several of the experiences on my blog--

dario now has a vegetarian menu--- which you can see on his website i believe.

http://www.dariocecchini.com/home/men...

Mar 13, 2013
Diva in Italy

Two days in Emilia-Romagna

i haven't been yet- but Massimo Bottura opened a new less expensive place-- which i can't wait to try.
more of a bistro- http://www.franceschetta58.it/

Mar 07, 2013
Diva in Italy

Florence/Siena/Venice trip report

for anyone reading this--- if you can't get into trattoria mario's, go next door to Pepo' . I lived down the street for 20 years.
I ADORE it as does my Florentine husband. or we go down the road to trattoria Gozzi---- our other GO TO place.

or Cipolla Rossa near the medici chapel

Mar 07, 2013
Diva in Italy

Best food city in ER – Parma, Bologna, Modena, other?

bologna is a fabulous food town, love the markets in the street there. have a friend that does foodie tours.modena is darling too, nice small market and the fabulous osteria francescana.
I also love the hidden trattoria at the salumeria giusti in modena.

a day on a food tour can take care of you seeing parmesan being made, tasting tradtional balsamic vinegar and seeing how it is aged and prosciutto and culatello. Then the things in town you can do on your own. In Bologna I love the Osteria La Bottega--hidden away but worth it on via santa caterina

Mar 07, 2013
Diva in Italy

I have my dinner itinerary for review but also looking for great pizza and lunch for our six days in Florence

i understand wanting pizza-- you can't always eat huge meals out-- but personally prefer wine bars or sandwich places with the fabulous Schiacciata bread-- our salty foccaccia.

i wouldn't "plan" pizza lunches-- just let them happen as really there is nothing special.
there is a lovely large napolitano pizza place called funiculi out by the port a prato-- or in the piazza del mercato, rosso pomodoro chain of naples style pizza. in the oltr'arno there is Vico del Carmine-- which is lovely

Mar 07, 2013
Diva in Italy

Draft of options for Florence, 4 nights. Which places do I reserve and how far ahead?

just a couple of notes for you-- cantinetta di verazzano has a bakery attached so you can always order their sliced baked breads, or the cecina ( chick pea crepe) not sure if they also have pizza slices. I love the pea and cheese stuffed foccaccia sandwich and the prosciutto, white truffle arugula cecina.

Nerbone inside the market DOES have seating-- just in front of the shop there are marble tables.

I ADORE Gozzi's was one of my neighborhood hang-outs. I also LOVE Pepo' just next door toTrattoria Mario's near the market on the back side.
There is also Rosso pomodoro in the back lot of the market-- for naples style pizza

Mar 07, 2013
Diva in Italy

Florence, Tuscany and Rome

Ciao- i live not too far away from Casole D'Elsa ( lovely lovely spot) have heard great things about the restaurant there.
There is a michelin star restaurant in Colle Val D'Elsa not too far away, Arnolfo.

I prefer driving at lunch time and "staying in" at night-- it is a long dark road!

Enoteca pinchiori? the people that adore it-- go for the wine!
I have lived in florence since 1984, and only been once.
500 euro a person with wine pairing?

would rather have steak-- and if you want to have steak, why not head out to panzano and eat the steak orgy at Macelleria Cecchini-- does a sunday lunch--- or any of the trattoria's.

Mar 07, 2013
Diva in Italy

Need Florence advice.

ahh just faculty? where are you staying- i have lived in florence since 84. glad to help

Nov 26, 2012
Diva in Italy

Florence restaurant musts for chef staying for 6 days early september

have you been to florence before? if not-- trattoria mario's is a classic, lunch only. closed on sun.
Cibreo is a must- trattoria is half the price of the restaurant-- same food- almost the whole menu- no pasta, no grilled meats but his flavors are incredible. When i take chefs on food tours- it is a must.do go to one of the markets, san lorenzo or san ambrogio.

Aug 19, 2012
Diva in Italy

Tuscany stop for cheese near San Casciano - Corzano e Paterno

i take my cooking students there-- it is fabulous and their cheeses are very creative-- not traditional. drive slowly down the dirt road as you can take the bottom of your car out! totally worth it
.

Jul 08, 2012
Diva in Italy

ISO a good farmhouse/winery lunch for 12 near Poggibonsi/Volterra/SanG (Tuscany) in August

i would ask the fattoria poggio alloro, family run farm. Daughter Sara was just on a book tour in USA. I know she does cooking classes. not sure if they do meals. Many farms, agritourismi only cook for their clients.

Jul 08, 2012
Diva in Italy

One week in Tuscany - dining in Florence, Chianti, Lucca, San Gimignano, Siena, Pienza, Montalcino, Montepulciano...suggestions?

ciao- as to your list--- i would switch i latini to Da Giovanni- just around the corner-- one of the original I latini brothers.... Giovanni- much better service and you see a menu. Daughter Caterina is in the dining room too and speaks english, went to Peter Kumps in USA while living there and was in the kitchen.

Da Delfina is a personal favorite of my husbands-- ( he is florentine) but NOT in the same chianti region the others are-- it is west in the hills.

i live out in Certaldo ( have been in italy since 1984- was a pastry chef in a 5 star hotel in SF) there are some fabulous tiny places no one ever writes about. On the ground floor of a funky little hotel between Certaldo and San Gimignano is I latini -- their "other place" always packed with locals. and their buon ricordo place is a favorite of mine, pici with kale and sausage sauce.

In my village there is a tiny place called Dolce Follie-- that in the back room has a tiny dining room with fabulous food and great wine list. i have a dining guide on my website for some simple favorites where I take my husband!

Jul 08, 2012
Diva in Italy

White Wine Winery in Italy (Florence or Tuscany I feel are probably best bets)

in tuscany, san gimignano makes our local white wine. I adore SOAVE outside of Venice-- Pierpan!
Rome Castelli Romani has whites too.

Jul 08, 2012
Diva in Italy

Sorrento suggestions?

may i suggest tasting limoncello and other liquore's in the Achille Lauro gardens He died and left the gardens to his gardner-- whose family started making limoncello--- it is lovely. they also make lemon sorbet at their gelato place in front of the gardens. now called the giardini di cataldo.

Jul 08, 2012
Diva in Italy

Arriving in Florence, dinner near Ponte Vecchio

on the "other" side of the bridge-- across from downtown, just to the left is the "golden view" not outdoors, but with windows on the arno river.... full meals or pizza. Evenings has Jazz. or the small wine bar, with tables outside, Volpe e L'uva salami's cheeses and sandwiches or crostoni... with wines by the glass.

Jun 16, 2012
Diva in Italy

Florence, Unfashionably Early

next door to mario's in florence is Za-Za's and they are open all day long- it is in the piazza so great for an antsy kid too and not far from the station! they have a little more upscale place now just down the square with "truffles" check out both menus

Jun 15, 2012
Diva in Italy

October in Chianti

Ciao- I live nearby. most restaurants are open from 12:30-3pm and from 7 to around 10pm.
dining early is really hard. are you renting a place to stay or in a hotel?
the wine festivals are all in sept and truffle festivals start in november--- not sure what you will find in october-- festivals are on weekends and usually begin the the late afternoon- ask me again closer to the date and will be glad to let you know. There is a small winebar in the main square of panzano- enoteca baldi-- they may serve food outside of normal hours.

Jun 15, 2012
Diva in Italy

Florence: Bistecca and bread? (not quite the same as older posts) - also Rome

galli is now closed on via faenza--
try Forno ivana on via del ariento behind the stands---- she has many styles of bread--
the cotto a legna is the traditional bread-- unsalted- made with mother-- but not sour dough

forno ivana
Via del Ariento, 21R

Mar 27, 2012
Diva in Italy

Florence validation

Garga is now closed--- the son Alessandro has recently returned from working in NY and opened his La Cucina Del Garga on via san zanobi. He is continuing with the recipes from the family and some of his own! He is a gracious host and the food is not traditional, but is GARGA as it was in it's prime!
http://www.garga.it/english.html

reservations a MUST at dinner

Mar 27, 2012
Diva in Italy

Friend going to Rome next week. Any great food tours she could go on?

elizabeth grew up in rome--- as a kid-- moved back now and has been about 25 years? and she isn't "old" ha ha-- but I would say practically Roman!
www.elizabethminchilli.com

Mar 27, 2012
Diva in Italy

Food Tour/ Class in Rome

I also have toured with Elizabeth- she is a wealth of knowledge-- and fun!

Mar 27, 2012
Diva in Italy

Food Factory/Producer Tours In Piedmont & Lombardy

torino is the land of chocolate-- wine and truffles. there are not as many food tours up there.
up by lake garda are olive oil producers of the north-- but it is out of season for oil crushing.

Mar 26, 2012
Diva in Italy

Authentic Bistecca Fiorentina in Florence

much of the meat comes from bologna hills too- really not that much chianina around and it is a tougher meat than the others--- which really is not what people expect.
more than anything the Authentic Bistecca alla fiorentina is a way of cutting the meat and cooking it done almost exclusivly in Florence-. the Cipolla Rossa Restaurant serves both male and female steaks-- you choose and is owned by Massimo Mannetti a 4th generation butcher in the san lorenzo market,

Mar 26, 2012
Diva in Italy

Need a wedding cake in Florence, Italy

we have an american woman here in florence doing american style cakes!
http://www.melaniesecciani.com/

Mar 26, 2012
Diva in Italy

Florence: Bistecca and bread? (not quite the same as older posts) - also Rome

ciao- I have lived in florence since 1984-usually we go to trattoria mario or trattoria sergio for steak- open at lunch only! I also like the meat at Cipolla Rossa, it is owned by a butcher, the Mannetti family in the central market ( ask to see your steak first) they are HUGE. I also have steak at Trattoria pepo--- i lived near the central market so most of my choices are from eating near home!
Tuscan bread-- is unsalted-- so most people are not fond of it. I ADORE schiacchiata all'olio, the local specialty which is a flat bread, brushed with oil and sprinkled with salt. There are crunchy versions and also a softer version. in searching for a good bread, ask for one cotto al legna, cooked in a woodburning oven, usually also means it was made naturally with a "mother"

Mar 26, 2012
Diva in Italy

Restaurant in Florence or Venice

perhaps too late, but I have been living in Florence since 1984 and have a dining guide online on my website. divinacucina.com
I think it is possible to eat well, on 50 euro a person, but not always each meal at a fancy sort of place. a good lunch in a nice trattoria will be 25-30 euro with house wine or a simple bottle.
Dinner at nicer places with a good bottle of wine will be 60-100. that is eating as italians do multiple course meals.

I love da Giovanni , on via del moro, traditional tuscan, also Da cammillo on Borgo San Jacopo ( these are not on my site!) as well as Fagioli on corso Tintori over near Santa Croce.

I adore CIBREO and there you can go to the restaurant side or bar, which are the 60 euro plus sides, or stand in line at the trattoria and save $$$$ and get the same food, but trattoria service!
I would save on a meal and blow it there!

no pasta!

In Venice I love Riviera on the Giudecca and Vini da Gigio, near Ca D'oro

Jul 06, 2008
Diva in Italy

Gourmet/Eclectic Food To Bring Home

When I take my students shopping in FLorence, one of the "new" products is Truffle salt!
about 10 euro here and lovely, ground up truffles in the salt. was invented by a guy from Seattle to help his friend in Umbria , now has taken off!

prices although the dollar is down, are still better.

to make it easier.. stay small and no glass.
olive oil for sure, from Assisi or Perugia, I haven't had much oil from LAzio ( rome)

I know in Florence they can get almost anything vacuume packed at the Central Market. am not familar with other markets or shops.

But dried porcini are much cheaper here and light.

A pavoni expresso maker can be shipped and is a great deal!
ha ha

May 05, 2008
Diva in Italy

Eating like a Sicilian for a month

WOW how fab..
we just got back from 10 days ( doing research) I live in Florence..

for fun... not $$$ eat at Ferro di Cavallo in Palermo, cheap and packed with locals.
We did lunch and dinner the same day it was good and fun. Cost 15 euro!

our best meal?
outside RAgusa on the hills Castelmonte gulfi at Majone!!!! THE BEST
PORK
walk in through the back room where the kitchen is into the smaller dining room.
they make a thing called GELATINA, which is a boiled pork, then pressed and served witht he gelatin on top, and other sliced meats.
then risotto with ragu,and a pasta with another ragu,.
I didn' care for the famous stuffed pork chops but the sausage was great.
and don't miss the orange salad!

In Ortygia we ate at Trattoria Mariano's, he is from Castelmonte gulfi, was a nice guy , nice food too

At night in palermo when the market closes down, the grill boys get going!
also the octopus guys!

I adore Stiglione, the intenstines wrapped around the green onions and grilled

Feb 14, 2008
Diva in Italy