Boatman's Profile
Mega Visit -- Trip Report In Progress
Thanks for the suggestions. I love Upperline and that might be a nice last dinner of the trip. Have never eaten at Dante's, once at Lilette but too long ago to remember well. Have been thinking of Green Goddess, which I've also never had dinner at, or possibly doing another progressive meal of appetizers in the Quarter or Warehouse District. Is Lilette good for lunch?
Mega Visit -- Trip Report In Progress
Just to catch up: Had a roast beef poor boy at Parkway Bakery for lunch Sunday, then had dinner at a place I'd long been curious about, Olivier's on Decatur in the Quarter. Got their creole gumbo, which was very good, and their rabbit, which was disappointing. Not much different than a decent baked chicken. The gravy was good, sides a little salty.
After three weeks here, I need to skip some lunches in order to at least simulate an appetite, which is what I did Monday. Then returned to Domenica for a dinner that was even better than my initial visit. Had the salami Gentile and octopus carpaccio, both outstanding. Then a small order of the squid-ink tagliolini and, on FoodChic's recommendation, the rabbit-porcini tagliatelle -- which was nearly as great as the other pasta. This is definitely one of the best kitchens in town right now. Am seriously thinking of returning a third time yet.
My one visit to Cochen five years ago left me cold. But as I was in the neighborhood, I opted for Butcher for lunch: duck-pastrami sliders and boudin. Both were fine. Old favorite Brigtsen's for dinner: soft-shell crab app, their amazing butternut shrimp bisque, and an excellent speckled trout with mushrooms and a lemon-mousselline sauce. Only a few days left now. No lunch again today and have not decided yet on dinner.
Mega Visit -- Trip Report In Progress
Cabbed it to Liuzza's (by the track) on Friday and had a nice bowl of their gumbo for lunch. Then two dinners where the appetizers and desserts outclassed the entrees. Friday night was Patois, my first time there. Got the gnocchi with crawfish in a great cream sauce and, at the waiter's suggestion, a bowl of their rabbit-andouille gumbo, loved them both. I think it was probably the single darkest gumbo I've ever had, coffee black, and one of the best. Went for duck over rabbit for my main and was disappointed. Fatty and tough, in too sweet a sauce for my taste. The sides were fine however and dessert was colossal enough to make amends: a creme fraiche souffle with strawberries and basil ice cream. Just outstanding, especially the strawberries, which were from Ponchatoula and like a taste of childhood. Despite the misstep on the duck, the rest of the meal was so good, I'm at least considering a return visit before leaving town.
Saturday night I had dinner at Arnaud's, my first time doing more than snacking in their bar in several years. I had an order of Oysters Bienville (with one Ohan on the side) and their Shrimp Arnaud (remoulade), and liked both as much as any appetizers I've had this trip. Pompano David was good, not great. Still under the spell of last night, I ordered Strawberries Arnaud for dessert and liked it just fine. The only real glitch of the evening was the distinct feeling I was being rushed a bit through my meal. But ignored that easily enough and really enjoyed being there. Heading to Parkway for lunch today.
Mega Visit -- Trip Report In Progress
And in related snowball news: When my Donewar's lunch went south, I drove over to Hansen's to freeze my sorrows. I asked them if they'd ever thought of doing a pear flavor. Was told that sure, they'd done that before and would be happy to prepare some for this weekend. So I have a custom pear snowball waiting for me tomorrow.
Mega Visit -- Trip Report In Progress
I have eaten at both Clancy's and Coquette already this trip, both excellent. In fact, my dinner at Clancy's is my #1 meal of the trip, two-and-a-half weeks in. I may go back next week but will more likely opt for some places I haven't tried yet.
Mega Visit -- Trip Report In Progress
I had seen references on this board to an off-menu white remoulade that Galatoire's would make upon request, but when I asked about it last night, my waiter had never heard of such a thing. Hazlehurst, do you have any input on this? The shrimp maison is not the mysterious white remoulade, is it? Other than this, my dinner last night was a success. When I mentioned I wanted to try some new menu items, the first thing my waiter suggested was your Canape Lorenzo, so went with that: Bigger and maybe a little dryer than I was expecting but very good. Also ordered turtle soup, to ground the meal in the familiar at least a little bit, then took your advice and got small versions of both the Crab Yvonne and Sardou. Was completely knocked out by both of them, with a slight preference for the Sardou. Thanks for your help. Am still hoping to try the oysters en brochette before leaving town.
Mega Visit -- Trip Report In Progress
This very long trip is entering the home-stretch and I'm thinking hard where I want to eat in the final week. I'm going back for a second dinner at Domenica and am probably hitting Brigtsen's as well, but I have probably three dinner slots to fill and would welcome any input from the board. Some places I'm thinking about are Green Goddess, GW Fins, Tomas Bistro, Le Foret, Crescent City Steaks, and Cafe Degas (the only one of these I've been to before). Several lunches are open as well. What do you think: Boucherie? Le Meritage? Maurepas Foods? Dante's? Joey K's? Baru? La Petite Grocery? someplace else? I've never been to Crabby Jack's. Any guess what a cab ride out there would run me? Thanks!
Mega Visit -- Trip Report In Progress
To continue: Made a very good dinner out of four appetizers at MiLa Monday night. Their white asparagus soup was disappointing after August's, but everything else shown: barbecue lobster, stuffed squash blossoms, and of course black truffle grits.
I had the rental car for three more days, so drove to Gretna on Tuesday for a planned progressive lunch. First stop: Pho Tau Bay for chicken pho and spring rolls. The pho had a great flavor that grew deeper with every bite. I was thwarted in my second-course plans however. I was following up on an obscure tip for a great roast-beef poor boy at Donewar's Superette, but when I got there it was locked up solid. A passing neighbor informed me it was due to an illness in the family. So no poor boy.
My plans to dine at Meauxbar that night also changed when I found I had a chance to see a friend's band play at the Saturn Bar. So dinner became a progressive affair as well: Drink and shrimp remoulade (amazing, as always; to me, the best in town) at Arnaud's French 75 Bar; then drink and Oysters Foch at Antoine's Hermes Bar. I'd tried this dish eleven years ago (when, I get the impression, Antoine's kitchen may have been at low ebb) and just thought it was strange (rather than good), but I'm glad I took a second chance: I liked it a lot this time, the sauce really dense and tasty. (I remember it as pasty and kind of yuck eleven years ago.) The Hermes Bar is a great idea, not the most atmospheric room in town, but you can order absolutely anything off Antoine's menu as a snack (even Baked Alaska, as my bartender pointed out). I also got to try a (fake) Ojen cocktail, which I liked more than I was expecting. Sweet but potent. For a third course (several hours later), I had my first hot sausage poor boy from Gene's Po-Boys -- terrific! Really loved it, again more than I was expecting. Best sandwich of the trip so far.
Thought about going to one of the NOWFE's wine dinners Wednesday night, but opted instead for Meauxbar, three blocks from where I'm staying, and again had a wonderful meal. Was completely planning to take kibbles's advice on the steak tartare, but there were so many attractive specials, I had to pass on it. Had a very good pate, then the highlight of the meal, a crawfish napoleon: stacked, about the size of a soup can, full of crawfish and avocado. Another special was rabbit etoufee, which I couldn't resist. Made with rabbit, morels, more crawfish, and leeks, more brothy than creamy, over noodles. Didn't make me swoon but more than good.
Was returning the rental car today, so drove to Metairie for a half-dozen chargrilled oysters at Drago's. I'd forgotten that Morning Call was so close, so went there as well. Yes, the oysters are somewhat better in Metairie than at the Hilton; and yes, Morning Call's coffee and beignets are a notch above Cafe du Monde's. Stopped for good measure at Sal's Sno-Balls, which I'd never seen before. Making a return visit to Galatoire's tonight, with the express purpose of trying some new menu items. I've never had any of the famous crab entrees. Any opinions which way I should go? Sardou? Ravigote? Yvonne?
crawfish etouffee
I was surprised to see it on the menu at Clancey's the other night. Our waiter described it as reddish brown, involving tomatoes, and I lost interest. (Everything was so good that night though that I certainly woulddn't dismiss it.) For me, the best in town is K-Paul's rich version, which always makes me light-headed, but I don't think it's on the menu right now. Nor is it as good when it's half shrimp.
Mega Visit -- Trip Report In Progress
Thanks much for the suggestions. Both sound great and I do have some open meals next week. Would welcome any ideas. What does anyone think of Meauxbar?
Mega Visit -- Trip Report In Progress
Having a great trip and have hit a fantastic run of meals, starting with Wednesday's dinner at Domenica (described above), followed by Galatoire's, August, Mosca's, Clancey's, and Stella. White asparagus soup was the best appetizer at our August supper. I had the lamb, deeply flavorful, but again my girlfriend chose best in getting the snapper: not the tarragon rendition that foodeye mentioned, but still a perfectly balanced dish, hard to tell where the fish stopped and the sauce/foam started. Silvia couldn't stop talking about it.
Had been planning to skip lunch Friday but ended up stopping for a quick bite at Green Goddess. Had the lentil pancake and manchego grits, both of which were fine but left feeling that I hadn't really gotten the full Green Goddess experience. Mosca's that night was great as always and we overordered out of necessity as always as well: crab salad (a concession to Silvia, who doesn't care for chicken), Italian oysters, spaghetti bordelaise, chicken a la grande, and they finally had the sausage when I was there. It was wonderful -- but I ate very little of everything and was the most stuffed I've been on the whole trip. With this and the La Boca experience, my body seems finally to be letting me know that there is such a thing as too rich.
Split a half muffaletta at Napoleon House Saturday afternoon. We both thought it needed more olive salad and that heating it doesn't really improve anything. Late supper that night at Clancey's, where I hadn't been in ten years and which I didn't remember being quite as awesome as it was this night. Wow, did it come thru: Crabmeat salad with a creamy roasted-pepper dressing, sweetbreads (better than at August the night before), and veal with crab and bearnaise! And top-shelf service. Easily my favorite meal of the trip so far.
My girlfriend had extended her stay by a couple days and Stella was a last-minute dinner addition on Sunday. We were lucky, got in at 8:45, and did the tasting menu, which I'd done once before. Standouts were loup de mer (which involved a scallop mouse, sweet corn puree, and tarragon sauce), beef tenderloin (with perfectly charred ramps and a smoked bone-marrow bearnaise), and truffled mushroom risotto (which we added on). Wonderful meal, wonderful service, wonderful Nola visit with a lot of it still ahead. On my own again today and dining at MiLa tonight. Let's talk again soon.
Mega Visit -- Trip Report In Progress
By Monday my stomach was feeling a little fragile from adjusting to my New Orleans itinerary, so went relatively light for dinner at Crescent Pie and Sausage: a half order of jambalaya (which was still about three times bigger than I was expecting) and some boudin, which I'm happy to report was the best I've ever found in New Orleans (though I've never gotten it at Jazz Fest). Tuesday I did a progressive lunch of Gumbo Ya-Ya at Mr B's and half a shrimp poor boy from Felix's. The Gumbo Ya-Ya was good but barely warm and I've never thought of it as the best gumbo around. The bowl I had last week at Two Sisters on Derbigny was much more to my taste. Late supper that night at the Pelican Club, which I'd never been to before. I made a meal of four appetizers and liked it a bunch. Standouts were the escargots and, especially, the seafood martini.
Wednesday my girlfriend arrived in town for three days and we had dinner reservations at Domenica, which came thru in a big way. The Burrata mozzarella and the calabrese pizza were great, as was my oxtail stracci, but the grand prize went to the squid-ink tagliolini that Silvia ordered. Wow: single best thing I've tasted on the trip so far. A second dinner may well be in the cards.
Had a typical (wonderful) lunch at Galatoire's today, no adventurous appetizers but first-rate pompano. Late supper (9:30) reservations at August tonight. Will report back.
Mega Visit -- Trip Report In Progress
Thanks for the suggestions Hazelhurst. I am hoping to try some different menu items this trip and the Canapé Lorenzo was already on my radar (no doubt from one of your posts). My next visit however will be lunch Thursday when my girlfriend is in town and I'll probably let her choose the appetizers.
The 5 Most Classic New Orleans Cocktails and the Best Places to Drink Them...
I did, yes, after dinner at Galatoire's Thursday night, and it was top notch. My waitress told me that Napoeon House also does a good Ramos.
Mega Visit -- Trip Report In Progress
When I can afford it, both time and money-wise, I love to settle in New Orleans for three weeks at a time, relaxing and grazing. It's my favorite solo vacation and it's where I am right now, my first such trip in about four-and-a-half years. I got in last Tuesday afternoon, staying in an apartment in the quiet end of the Quarter. This first week I've hit mostly new places, at least to me. I won't go into depth on every meal but a few highlights need to be mentioned, starting with my first dinner at Tommy's. Really liked this place and it was a classic way to begin the trip. Baked oysters (half Tommys, half Bienvilles) were fantastic, I couldn't decide which I liked better. Black drum Capri was also good, bread pudding just ok.
Wonderful roast beef poor boy at Johnny's for lunch the next day, then a late supper at Rue 127. They were doing a sweetbreads risotto, which was pretty amazing, especially the sweetbreads themselves, which were perfect, maybe the best I've ever had. I was kind of underwhelmed with the rest of the meal however.
Thursday night was dinner at Galatoire's, the only place I know I'll hit a few more times in the coming weeks. Martini, Crabmeat Maisson, Shrimp Remoulade, Turtle Soup, Soft-Shell Crab, all great. My timing was also pretty good: Bill Clinton was dining there that night.
Nursed a hangover the next morning with a big bowl of gumbo at Two Sisters Kitchen: Really potent stuff, easily one of the best gumbos in the city. Dinner at Coquette that night was very good, if not quite as great as the first time I ate there two years ago. Guy's Po-Boys and Hansen's Sno-Bliz for Saturday lunch, and a very late supper at La Boca that night. It was my first time there and I opted for the "skin-on" skirt steak -- which was indeed delicious but ohmygod was it rich. Like some weird steak meuniere or something. Not only could I not finish it, but I think it's still digesting two days later.
For dinner last night I tried Root, which was not bad but not nearly as good as I was hoping for. Picked up some red beans and rice from Matassa's Market for lunch today and am heading to Crescent Pie and Sausage for dinner tonight.
Stay tuned.
The 5 Most Classic New Orleans Cocktails and the Best Places to Drink Them...
They're not completely consistent, but when they're on, the Ramos Gin Fizzes at the Carousel Bar are great.
Sweetbreads
I just had the sweetbreads risotto at Rue 127 last night. They were terrific, the best dish of the meal, and the sweetbreads themselves were perfect.
The Best Thing You Ever Ate: New Orleans
This is a tough one, having eaten so many meals in my favorite food city over the years. But if I have to narrow it down to one (and this may only be because I can't get it anymore), I would say the Trout Meuniere at Chez Helene. I may have eaten better food, but I have no better memories of food.
Runners-Up include:
Soft-Shell Crabs at Galatoire's
Butternut-Squash Shrimp Bisque at Brigtsen's
Oysters Mosca and Chicken Grande at Mosca's
Pompano and Crabmeat Maison at Galatoire's
Crawfish Etoufee and Corn-Crab Bisque at K-Paul's
Shrimp Arnaud
Dookie Chase's Gumbo
Fois Gras du Monde at Commander's
Cane River Shrimp at Upperline
Chargrilled Oysters at Drago's
Bananas Foster at Brennan's
And the memory for which I'm most grateful: On the last day of my very first New Orleans visit (April 1976, I was 20 years old), I was directed, almost by accident, to Buster Holmes, where I had the best plate of red beans and rice (with sausage) ever.
Happened upon this thread while preparing for an upcoming visit: Looking forward to stretching out and eating like a king for 23 days, starting April 8. It'll be my first visit in two years, my first of that kind of length in over five. Can not wait.
The Quintessential Indianapolis
Brentk's suggestion of chicken dinner at Hollyhock Hill might just be the best answer to this question. It's on the northside and has been around since the neighborhood was actually out-of-town countryside. A good near-downtown option for a tenderloin sandwich would be Barringer's Tavern, a really cozy and beautiful old bar (the absolute best neon in the city) at 2535 S Meridian. Good burger, better than good tenderloin.
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Hollyhock Hill
8110 N College Ave, Indianapolis, IN 46240
Barringer's Tavern
2535 S Meridian St, Indianapolis, IN 46225
Great Indianapolis Burger?
There is a relatively new place on the eastside (13th and Shadeland) called Tie Dye Grill. The place itself is kind of hard to take, one of those aggressively nostalgia-themed restaurants (in this case for the groovy '60s) that I would usually avoid like the plague. But: They have far and away the best burger I've had in Indy, a half-pounder expertly char-grilled. Juicy doesn't start to describe it. Their hours are also annoying: lunch only, except for Tuesday and Friday, when they're open until 8. And of course it's about as unhandy to the track as you can get. But if you're looking for Indianapolis's great burger, this is it.
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Tie Dye Grill
1311 N Shadeland Ave Ste B, Indianapolis, IN 46219
Downtown Milwaukee Breakfast?
I had a very good breakfast last month at Beans and Barley: pesto scrambled eggs, great scones, carrot-orange juice, and one of the best cups of coffee I've had in quite a while.
What's the best and worst thing you ate this week in Indianapolis?
Best: Amazing tenderloin at Green Street Pub in Brownsburg.
Worst: Breakfast sandwich from Starbucks.
Pizza or pub grub in Indianapolis
Indianapolis is indeed a dismal pizza town. Have you tried Iaria's? Their pasta is boring but I think their pizza is the best in town. Just one size, great crust, they make their own sausage daily. Be sure to get it with provolone, it's much better than their mozzarella pies.
As for pub fare, I've become a fan of McNiven's on Mass Ave: Really good scotch eggs and onion rings, big beer selection, a great ahi tuna appetizer. Ralph's Great Divide is also a good bet: good burgers and soups, also a good tuna steak.
Indianapolis BBQ
I agree GT South's has the best pulled pork in town. My favorite for ribs these days is Judge's on West Michigan Street -- really big meaty bats with great smoke flavor. Good sides (corn pudding) as well. The only problem is their inconvenient hours: Friday is the only day they're open past 4:00 (they're there til 8) and not open at all on Saturdays or Sundays (!!)
NW Indiana Heads-Up: Last of the Lake Perch Fish Frys
All-you-can-eat lake-perch fish frys used to be THE community fundraiser in rural northwest Indiana. The rising cost of lake perch (especially now that they have to be imported from Canada) has caused most organizations to either forgo them or switch to cheaper (less tasty) fish like pollock. One true lake perch fish fry remains, sponsored by the Hanna United Methodist church in southern LaPorte County, and it is not to be missed. The perch are expertly prepared by the LaCrosse Lions Club, in an old school bus that's been converted to a mobile kitchen. I feel confident in saying it is the best deep-fried fish I've ever had, not the least bit crunchy and so greaseless you can hardly believe it's not pan-fried. $12 entitles you to all you can eat, along with potato salad, baked beans, and homemade pie. It's a lovely scene and well worth the drive from wherever you are. This Saturday (October 4), from 4 to 7.
Help to avoid Nashville disappointments
I've found Arnold's (lunch only) and Sylvan Park to lead the pack of meat-and-threes in Nashville, both always spectacular.
How is Bro's Cajun Cuisine in Nashville ?
I ate at Bro's just last night for the first time. Ordered the crawfish etoufee, which was absolutely inedible. Both the crawfish and the sauce seemed to have something seriously wrong with them. I couldn't do more than about three bites. My friend got the sampler plate and most of it was ok, if unspectacular (except for the etoufee). Very disappointing meal.
Best Restaurant Dessert currently in New Orleans
The brown butter banana tart at Herbsaint or the homemade ice creams at Martinique.
French Quareter restaurant with great food that has a courtyard.
Doesn't Broussard's have a courtyard?
