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Thoughts on Venissa in Venice?

I think there are a number of excellent eateries in the city, what a shame you only had one good meal. Where else did you try?

Jul 25, 2012
livingvenice in Italy

I need a best restaurant list for Venice 2011- Splurge for 3 days

Antiche Carampane, impeccable, €60-€80; try Orto dei Mori will be less, Covo, and Santa Marina will be about the about the same as Carampane. There are more.if you're looking for a different sort of experience. (la Cantina, la Staffa, Promessi Sposi for example).

May 14, 2012
livingvenice in Italy

Review: Il Refolo, Fiaschetteria Toscana & Il Ridotto | Venice

Thank you Barberinbee, for the bottle reminder! Some locales are beginning to serve filtered water in carafes, I hope more follow suit. The water from any fountain in town is more than fine, refill at will and save that bottle.

I have to say it breaks my heart when out of habit, I see folks reaching for the lemon for their fish. To anyone here, using lemon means you're trying to cover up bad fish, and you'll never see a local dousing a crisp frittura with lemon juice, thus turning it to mush.

I''m a full believer in that it's your meal and you should do what you like but please, try your frittura or any other fish dish first without the lemon (or any cheese, another "sin"). I bet you, like most of us here, will come to the conclusion it's not needed on the freshest fish anywhere. (Just a suggestion; I could be biased, I admit...or just a fish snob. ;) )

Apr 12, 2012
livingvenice in Italy

"Celebrity Death Match" of Rome/Venice/Florence restaurants for our trip - please help me finalize the final itinerary!

I'm a big fan of Gatto Nero, the seafood is as fresh as it comes. Please resist soaking any dish in lemon before you taste out of habit (especially that frittura they've work so hard to make is light and crunchy)—these fish are flavorful and never "fishy," and the lemon will only obliterate the taste. You can always add it on the second bite if you prefer.

You'll find fine cichéti at Bottegòn già Schiavi, although we are all still stinging from the loss of its patriarco who passed just recently. Paolo is holding down the fort for now, we are hoping he continues; travelers and locals alike so depend on our Bottegon. Other good cichèti stops are Promessi Sposi, Vedova, and Vecià Carbonera in Cannaregio, Do Mori, all'Arco, Do Spade around the Rialto—even the bar at Caffè Quadri (cotechino polpetti, buonissimi), and a staple Aciugheta. Best time for freshest cicchetti are before official lunch time.

I'll throw in Orto dei Mori and Osteria Santa Marina for another meal options, on the campo dei Mori in Cannaregio. Ridotto is Gianni Buonacorsi's place, easily recommendable, as is Cesare's lagoon-dedicated Al Covo, along with the new Ristorante Quadri, just awarded a Michelin star. You'll sense the owners' passion for what they do in all these locales, I think.

No matter where you go, do ask what they recommended for the day; they'll let you know what's freshest.

Best of luck with your decision(s); not easy ones—fortunately.

Feb 20, 2012
livingvenice in Italy

[Venice] The Met - lost Michelin stars

PBSF is quite right, the last I heard Corrado was returning to Schio, Vicenza (he's from there) to open his own restaurant. You might consider the new Quadri, it's earned one Michelin star.

Feb 18, 2012
livingvenice in Italy

cheap eats in Venice, Tuscany and Rome

I don't think anyone will have a problem finding more good choices in your ample list...!

Feb 12, 2012
livingvenice in Italy

Venice Report - Very Long and too wordy

Your report surprises me not one bit. I'm such a fan of the boys at the Sposi (two of which were once long-times at the Vedova, by the way). The thing about the Sposi is you can stop in for an ,80 ombra and a hot crunchy polpetta or sicilian eggplant or seppie or beccafico at the banco, or sit down for some excellent home-made primi and/or satisfying branzino or beef tagliata. And yes, they're always happy to see you.

Anice Stellato is another favorite, and absolutely worth the wander; their tables along the fondamenta just add to the ambience and their eastern influenced fare.

The casinò has one of my favorite pozzo in town—the rest is gravy.

Thanks for filling us in!

Feb 11, 2012
livingvenice in Italy

cheap eats in Venice, Tuscany and Rome

Two quick addendums, Ardidos has been closed for some time, and Pinto is now Chinese owned. :(. I think bàcaro food is the nearest equivalent to "street food" here: stand up for select assortments from fried bites to "mignon" sandwiches to a tris of bacalà mantecato, vicentina, e in tècia crostini. The rule is, if you don't recognize it, eat it! Best selections are before lunch and before dinner ("ape" hour). Just keep an eye out for locals ganged around a bar, chatting and munching and cin-cin-ing away.

I still like the Rosticceria under the sotoportego passageway alla Bissa, just off the Campo San Bartolomeo on the San Marco side of the Rialto. You can stand up for your mozarella in carozza, or sit for a risotto that comes straight out of the kitchen every 7 minutes, about; eat your roast chicken or grilled fish at the bar or a proper table (turnover's quick, if you don't spot one right away, just keep scanning...)

Feb 11, 2012
livingvenice in Italy

First Stop Venice

Nothing is too far the first night. You will have far more energy than you anticipate, promise -- the excitement of being in town and all. Just eat early, 7:30-ish, have a great, relaxed supper; you'll be fine.

alla Staffa would be lovely, Simson, da Alberto, da Remigo a bit more upscale, perhaps. Above restaurants are a 5 - 10 min walk (great for after dinner, head for the Piazza on your way back!). Remember, too, Line 1 will take you anywhere, you don't even have to walk.

Promessi Sposi has great variety and slightly more laid back (just had their lamb orecchini today, and tasted fresh zucca/amoretto ravioli...mmmm) -- but even though they're "Cannaregio" they're just off campo Santi Apostoli, where as Anice Stellato is almost to Sant'Alvise (just beyond Orto dei Mori). Vini da Gigio & Anice Stellato a bit more refined but traditionally Venetian (Gigio has a stupendous cantina, don't bother with the list, just let Paolo choose your wine for you); Orto dei Mori more contemporary, just lovely (still with a great frittura, never fear). Just pick what appeals -- you really can't go wrong.

You can get fegato at almost any traditional Venetian locale -- I wouldn't waste a trip to Zucca on liver -- go for the more creative dishes -- that's really where they shine.

Book Testiere as soon as you know. It's small, and popular.

I'll leave the Casinò advice to someone else (I'm one of those people who thinks nothing is far). ;)

Nov 29, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

First Stop Venice

I'll throw in a few alternative possibilities: la Cantina for dinner (fabulous lamb, pork, and beef, along with some of the freshest fish around -- esp crudo -- and a great wine selection; sometimes soup but no pasta or risotto), Garanghelo near the market, very Venetian (check the language on the placemats) but lightened up quite a bit; Orto dei Mori on campo dei Mori, fab frittura and baccalà but there are lots of other "reinterpreted" options; don't forget Antiche Carampane & Promessi Sposi as other possibilities. And if you end up on Burano, you can't best Gatto Nero or da Romano.

Aciugheta may have the best polpette in town....

You may have to stay longer. ;)

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Antiche Carampane
Calle de la Carampane, 1911,San Polo, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT

La Bottega ai Promessi Sposi
calle dell'Oca, Cannaregio 4367,, Venice, Veneto , IT

Osteria Orto dei Mori
Campo dei Mori, Cannaregio 3386, Venice, Veneto 30121, IT

La Cantina
Campo San Felice, Cannaregio 3689, Venice, Veneto , IT

Gatto Nero da Ruggiero (Trattoria Al Gatto Nero)
Fondamenta della Giudecca,88, Venice, Veneto 30142, IT

Ostaria al Garanghelo
1571, San Polo, Venice, Veneto , IT

Nov 27, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

Trip Report - Venice (long)

Lovely -- you enjoyed two personal favorites, Cantina and Garanghelo. You'll have to try Cantina for dinner someday -- stupendous crudo, great wines and wonderful meats al forno. And ai Osti is yet another -- for a spritz, worker's lunch, and more.

Come back -- stay longer. :)

Nov 17, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

Do Forni as in DO NOT GO

It's true -- I would rely on these boards, guide books, almost anywhere and anyone before accepting a concierge's recommendation -- especially in San Marco. It's all about the percentuale. If a restaurant doesn't agree to the cut, they don't make the list. And if they do -- you'll likely be paying for that cut.

Nov 17, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

Suggestions for dining in Florence and Rome (vegetarians)

Like.

Nov 17, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

sarde in saor

Coda di rospo - monkfish is so firm, the tail can be cut up lengthwise and then in pieces for the saòr; it works out very well.

Nov 17, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

Sunday and Monday in Venice

Sorry --- probably not necessary for lunch, but always, everywhere, for dinner.

Oct 24, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

Venice trip Oct 22-26

Will also second PBSF on al Prosecco, wonderful wine selection and meats, cheeses, salads, etc. If the weather's fine it makes for one of the great people-watching posts in all of Venice.

Oct 24, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

Venice trip Oct 22-26

Just to add a couple more options, I'll recommend Cantina for more than their crostini cichietti (which are lovely, Francesco's own, made on-the-spot and not ahead of time) -- for dinner you'll find the freshest fish and some of the best meat in the city, if not elsewhere. The wine list is always choice (lots of turnover as they stock only ten or twenty cases of anything), and the beer they brew has just got picked up by Calandre and the Alajmo brothers (wondering if it will appear at the Quadri eventually...).

Another Cannaregio option is Promessi Sposi, option for dinner daily, closing for lunch on Wed, I think, with some marvelous cichetti choices (the place will be jammed with locals at 18:30) and a lovely menu of fish, meat, and homemade pasta dishes, etc.

And of course Orto dei Mori is good to remember for being open on Mondays, particularly.

Don't bring boots -- your lodging will provide (you can check with them); or you can pick up any of the pairs that will line the streets on the first sound of the warning sirens. ;)

Oct 24, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

Sunday and Monday in Venice

Don't forget Vini da Gigio for Sunday; Orto dei Mori would make a great choice for Sun or Mon, and of course Al Covo closes only Wed-Thu. PBSF, you're right about Fontego being closed Monday but open Sun & Tue. Alla Staffa just off S.S.Giovanni e Paolo is open daily and is delightful; same for Promessi Sposi.

Doubt you'd need reservations for lunch anywhere (except maybe for Ai Artisti on the Fondamenta Toletta, which is also tiny but is humming these days); also because the Ridotto has expanded, adding several tables (it's still pretty small, though).

If you'd like to go all out, you might consider heading for the new Quadri...the cafe should be opening up any day now as well...

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Al Covo
Campiello della Pescaria,Castello 3968, Venice, Veneto 30122, IT

Ai Artisti
Fondamenta della Toletta ,Dorsoduro 1169/A, Venice, Veneto , IT

Vini da Gigio
Fondamenta di San Felice, Cannaregio, 3628, Venice, Veneto 30121, IT

Oct 24, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

Venice - need some help for a wedding lunch for five please :)

Hi, I'm afraid it's true -- those locales that concentrate on atmosphere may flag in the food area. I can recommend Orti dei Mori and even Anice Stellato if you're not averse to getting away from the center. I've sent lots of travellers to Orto and they've been delighted (whew). It's located on an airy fondamenta, and the inside is cheery and hip. They do weddings infrequently in fact -- and when I asked the last editor I sent how they liked their meal there, they said it was everything you said, and more. Might be worth considering, again -- depending on what you're looking for. The fare at both locales is truly satisfying, perhaps a bit fancier (think fagotti bundles) at the Orto.

You also may look into the Pensione Widman -- they have a Slow Food connection and the view can be beat.

Vini da Gigio and Antiche Carampane should be within your budget as well...

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Anice Stellato
Cannaregio, 3272, Venezia , IT

Osteria Orto dei Mori
Campo dei Mori, Cannaregio 3386, Venice, Veneto 30121, IT

Oct 15, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

Ristorante Quadri by chef Massimiliano Alajmo from La Calandre Padua

Just an FYI, Quadri has a rich and varied wine collection and the servers will be more than happy to offer suggestions for wines that will pair excellently with dishes created from mostly regional elements.

SuperTuscans are inordinately popular but hardly a wine for all seasons -- there's always a danger of overwhelming all but the most robust dishes. Just in case someone might be considering a more adventurous or curious choice in wine, you'll find many fine ones, and at much less of a "collector's" price.

Oct 10, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

Ristorante Quadri by chef Massimiliano Alajmo from La Calandre Padua

I know that chef Corrado Fasolato was leaving the Met by Oct 1 or Nov 1 -- at the time I spoke to his wife they weren't sure what was next (sounded like they were up for some time off). We will have to see what happens from there, with him, and with the Met.

Oct 10, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

NY Hound Not Fooling Around-Back From Venice

Yes, yes, they certainly should be.

Sep 28, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

Venice Restaurant final list

Carpe pasticceriem. ;)

Sep 28, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

NY Hound Not Fooling Around-Back From Venice

Been here 7 years and still can't get myself to eat horse meat no matter how bresaola'd, but soft-shelled mo'eche crabs are just coming into the short fall season and you should be able to find them at any reputable fish-serving eatery around town (poor dears).

Sep 28, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

Venice Restaurant final list

Marchini Time did replace Zanin...

Sep 28, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

NY Hound Not Fooling Around-Back From Venice

Whoever reserves first for a particular evening chooses the menu: meat or fish. Everyone else will have that. Operai / workers' lunch menus are set.

I wouldn't go because it's the best meal you'll ever have. I'd go because Marisa's cooking it, and there's a lot of food, and you'll be served a big slice of vita Cannaregiota along with whatever the menu is. :)

Sep 28, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

NY Hound Not Fooling Around-Back From Venice

just an aside: dalla Marisa is €15 at lunch an €40 for dinner. I'd go for the meat rather than fish, frankly (whoever reserves first names the evening menu), but just eating there is worth it just because she's one of a kind, period - does all the cooking herself, BTW.

Sep 28, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

Venice Restaurant final list

They drawn you in right off the calle if you pass anywhere near the door because the bakery is in the back and they work non-stop. I profumi...the smell is rapturous...

Sep 28, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

Venice Restaurant final list

I heart 4 Feri...

Sep 28, 2011
livingvenice in Italy

Venice Restaurant final list

Just a small addendum: La Cantina does not have cichetti sotto banco as do most bàcari, but wonderful crostini to order, meat or fish (I always just let Francesco do what he feels like). Great for dinner too: excellent fish and marvelous meat, although this is the "updated" Venice some people seem to want to avoid. ;) )

I would also add to the bàcaro list Sbarlefò, just up from campo Santi Apostoli, a fine selection of cichetti and wine, and 2nd PBSF on Vedova, which vies with Aciugheta for the best polpette in town, and Promessi Sposi, which slips a little Sicily into both its cichetti and sit-down fare (one of my favorites is also one of the simplest the sliced voilet Sicilian eggplant rounds, sprinkled with origano siciliano and drizzled with olive oil). It'll be jammed with locals when it opens at 18:30, daily.

I think you have your work cut out for you!

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La Cantina
Campo San Felice, Cannaregio 3689, Venice, Veneto , IT

Sep 28, 2011
livingvenice in Italy