bigfiver69's Profile
Newfoundland cuisine
If you're looking for truly, truly authentic Newfoundland recipes, the book you want is the Cream of the West Flour Treasury of Newfoundland Dishes. It was first printed in 1959, and has gone through many reprintings. The recipes were submitted by women all over the island, and they are a real window on the cuisine of Newfoundland, and its English and Irish origins. Brewis, flipper, etc are all in there, made the way they're supposed to be made. I believe the book is not out of print, but you may get one ebay, Alibris, etc. Good luck!!! Even though I no longer live in Newfoundland, I refer to my tattered old copy all the time. And you cannot beat the bread and pastry recipes.
Shep
Fine and local dining in and around St. John's, Newfoundland
You know, you could write a book on the history and variations of Fish and Chips in St. John's alone.
Interestingly, I think as St. John's gentrifies (and it's happening) the humble fish and chip shop will lose a lot of relevance.
Remember when every strip mall and neighborhood had a chip shop? There was Skippers in the Torbay Road Mall, a great shop. There was a chip shop in the Virginia Park Mall! There was a chip shop in Pleasantville. (You can tell I grew up in the East End,) It really was a regular thing, and for some families (Catholic to be sure) it wasn an every- Friday -night thing. It really was woven into the fabric of city life.
Great fish and chips may well be St. John's culinary contribution to Canada.... and that is no small thing. Whether you go to the R, Ches's, Leo's, Scamper's or any of the other joints around the city, you're pretty much certain you'll find a decent plate. And sometimes, you get something sublime. Try and find fresh cod as much as you can; always get gravy...on the side at the very least; always use vinegar - the malt vinegar in town is different than anywhere else in the world; and if you just want a snack, go for a small C, D, & G - Chips, Dressing and Gravy. It's bliss..... and make sure you wash it all down with a Pepsi.
In the same way that natives of Kansas City are connoisseurs - almost in an intellectual way - of barbecue, so it is with townies and fish and chips... I've seen arguments break our over whether it was going to be Ches's or Leo's - and those two joints are pissing-distance apart!
As I write this, it is 9:30 in the morning in Toronto.... but if someone offered me a large fish and chips from town RIGHT NOW, I'd eat it with a smile on my face.
Shep
Fine and local dining in and around St. John's, Newfoundland
Even though I now live in Toronto (food heaven) I grew up in St. John’s, and lived there for a couple of years recently. For a city of about 200,000 people, it has a remarkably diverse and satisfying restaurant scene.
Fish and Chips. You’d expect a city that was built on the back of the cod fishery to have great fish and chips, and St. John’s does. We grew up on Ches’, on Military road. I find the quality a little variable, but when they’re on, they’re the best. I also really like Leo’s (just up the road) and the Big ‘R’ (just down the road). At the Big ‘R’, go for the deluxe fish and chips, with dressing (really, turkey stuffing) gravy and peas. It’s a delight. Velmas, a sit down restaurant on Water Street, also serves excellent fee&chee. If you’re out by the Avalon Mall, hit Scampers on O’Leary Avenue… the best overall in my opinion, but a little out of the way.
Chinese. St. John’s has always had a sizable Chinese community, part of a wave of immigration that arrived over a century ago to help build the Newfoundland railway. And there are some real gems in the city that serve GREAT Chinese. Everyone raves about Magic Wok on the west end of Water Street, and it is fabulous. For old school North American Chinese, try the Kenmount out on Kenmount Road. My favorite, though, is the China House. It’s tucked away in a dying mall on Torbay Road, but its menu goes beyond the typical chicken balls, rice and honey garlic spareribs… check the menu for their Szechaun, Hunan and Mongolian dishes. If you have to choose one dish, make sure it’s the Mongolian beef on a sizzling platter. It’s incredible.
Pizza. Likewise, there are a LOT of pizza joints in St. John’s. Old-timers will swoon over now-defunct places like Napoli and Roma. The last of the true old school places is Venice Pizzeria on Military Road. We used to order there in the ‘70s, and when I revisited the place a couple of years ago, they were still doing it right. Try a large with tomoato, pepperoni, hamburger and bacon – that’s a killer pie. I also like Stoggers’ further up Military Road… but sometimes the crust is a little thick for my liking. Still, they make a solid pie.
Mexican. Zapata on Bates Hill is fabulous…. Whatever you do, make sure you get lots of the chili…. It’s ridiculous. There is an okay Mexicali Rosas on George Street, and
Special mention has to go to International Flavours at the foot of Signal Hill Road. If you’re staying in St. John’s at the Hotel Newfoundland, International Flavours is right behind, a block or two over. There is no menu, just whatever the owner – a lovely woman who cooks delicious Pakistani food – chooses to put on the plate. A heap of rice, a vegetable curry, and a couple of lentil dishes, topped with chicken. It’s the best deal in the city. When you’re there ask for pickle on the side, and a little bowl of sweet chutney for the table.
As for other Indian, try India Gate on Duckworth Street. Excellent.
Other…. There are a number of other interesting places around the city. If you’re on the run, get a Turkey Sandwich from Breen’s convenience (also sold at other small stores around the city) – turkey, dressing, mayo and cranberry sauce on the softest white bread you’ve ever had. The garlicky ribs at Papa’s in Churchill Square are fine eating (granted, haven’t had them in many years.) And don’t forget the turkey rolls at Fabulous Foods up on Merrymeeting Road (also, good fish and chips.)
If you’re road-tripping, there’s excellent food to be had up towards Bonavista, at Greening’s restaurant in Lethbridge (a classic roadside restaurant with fantastic home-style cooking… I’m biased, because it’s run by my wife’s aunt and uncle… but honestly, it’s incredible. Try the pie.) And Fisher’s Loft, a lovely cottage-style hotel/b&b in Port Rexton. Delicious food there too. Down past Bay Bulls, there’s the Captain’s Table – more great seafood.
Most underrated food on the island of Newfoundland? Easily, these would be the restaurants in the Irving Gas Stations across the province. Mostly home-style cooking, and usually delicious. The best ones are the one just outside Clarenville (used to be called the Jigger… might still be) and the one in the Donovan’s Industrial Park, out towards Paradise… the place is usually packed on Sundays for the Turkey and Jiggs Dinner special (with salt meat and cabbage). It’s worth the trip, and you won’t leave hungry.
And one last point… ask the locals. Restaurants open and close pretty frequently in St. John’s, so you might get lucky and hit something good.
