Brunella's Profile
Paris...so many choices...here's what I have so far:
Everyone thinks they MUST go to Versailles. I didnt go there on my first trip. And I didnt go there on my second trip. Finally got around to it on my third trip and was totally underwhelmed. You are only there for four days. Why waste a whole day going to Versailles when there is so much to do right in Paris?
The Seine dinner cruise is a fun touristy things to do but again, totally not de rigeur for a first time visit. And especially if you are there in the winter when you'll want to me by a warm cozy fire. Leave the dinner cruise for a repeat visit on a balmy summer night when you've seen everything else.
I'd warn against making both lunch and dinner reservations in the same day. Meals take a long time (esp dinner) and can wear you out. Two hours is absolute minimum. 3 hours is pretty normal and 4 hours is not unheard of at the gastronomy temple places. Plus unless your french is pretty fluent you will have a certain amount of anxiety every time you open a menu.
If you insist on making a ton of reservations before hand, you should check out www.bestrestaurantsparis.com. Some of the places on your list are bound to be there and the service is free. Also check the individual restaurants web-site and see if they accept reservations from their website. Failing that, I recommend faxing. Faxing is still big in europe and is the preferred method in many establishments.
If you plan every minute of every day you will resent your vacation. Dont try to see everything. Assume you will return. Leave some free time to just be.
Merci to All and Non-Food ? (Best Car Rental Co)
Auto Europe is always cheaper than the others so I have always used them. I have never had any issues with service or cars. The only thing that might happen, as happened to me on the last trip, we had reserved a Volkswagen specifically and were told when we checked in at CDG that they did not have any volkswagens. We got a peugeot but it turned out to be a great car, albeit too small for both of our big suitcases to fit in the trunk.
Best Markets in France or Italy
St. Remy de Provence has a great market. And the surrounding area has enough stuff to keep you busy for weeks.
coffee beans
Comptoir Richard is where I go. I think they have several locations around Paris but I use the one on rue St. Dominique in the 7e.
Please review/comment on Paris eating plans...
Dehillerin is definitely worth it for a foodie. Not worth it for someone who is not into it. There are a couple of other cooking stores around the corner on rue montmartre. If she is into food as well as cookware you need to go to the food dept at the Bon Marche. Having ice cream at Berthillon on Ile St. Louis is something everyone tourist needs to do once. Mariage Frere is great. They have several different locations but I like the one in the 3e - the original and IMO most atmospheric. They have pastries which i dont believe are better than at other places but I would still recommend having a treat and a pot of tea there. They have hundreds of different teas, any of which you can order by the pot but unless you are into tea you wont have any idea what to order. Be daring....dont be a bore or order a boring old Earl Grey. Get something you've never heard of. You might also consider having a chocolat chaud at Angelina in the 1e. Its not as good as it used to be but its still fun and a lovely space.
I would not go to l'Ami Jean except for lunch. Its too crowded and loud and you are right on top of your neighbors. I prefer a more sedate atmosphere at dinner.
coming to paris - any fun/neat/odd foodie can't miss places?
Also the food department at Gal Lafayette. Not quite as good as the one at Bon Marche but still worth a look.
Question about French ham
Did it have any green stuff in it? Could it have been jambon persille from Burgundy?
You can get a bunch of different spanish jamon from La Tienda online.
Le Grand Epicerie
Foie gras sandwich. Very interesting. I cant seem to get away from the groceries and specialty ingredients. I never paid any attention to the prepared foods before.
The last time I was there I noticed for the first time their awesome selection of vanilla beans. I saw the fattest, meatiest vanilla beans I have ever seen and have been kicking myself ever since that I didnt buy any.
Foodie Souveniers from Burgundy Region
In Dijon the obvious choice is the Maille mustard boutique. You can get earthenware crocks with 3 different varieties of Mustard only available there (and the shop in Paris). They also have cute decorative ceramics mustard pots of all shapes and sizes. Another specialty of the region, other than wine, is Cassis. Its a sweet liquor made out of currants. Also Marc de Bourgogne. Its like grappa - very strong. Distilled from the must of grapes. There are also numerous specialty cheeses but I try to enjoy as much as I can there and not try to bring it home because you never know if you'll get a sphincter customs agent who will take it away.
Sweets in Paris
Parisians have an insatiable sweet tooth. No matter where you are, you wont be far from someplace to indulge. Marron Glace is kind of a seasonal thing but IMO the ones from Laduree are top notch.
My Favorite Paris Guide
Its my favorite too. I've never met Mr Bernstein but I've traded e-mails with him on occasion and he is a super nice guy. His olive oil is really good too.
Woman eating alone in Paris
I find solo dining abroad very liberating and empowering, although this is something I would rarely if ever do at home. You are saying "I am strong, confident and not afraid to eat in public by myself." If people watch me, I just watch them back. I mean its not like you are ever going to see them again. If people are staring just shine them on. They are the one with the problem clearly, not you. If you act all self concious about it they'll just feel sorry for you and thats not what you're going for. Oooze confidence.
Decent dinner for 20 euro per person in Paris ?
Hmm! I ate there in May and found the food to be the same as it was 4 years ago. I was ecstatic that they hadnt changed the menu. That street has gotten so trendy with all the fancy new cafes, I feared they might have changed things to try to keep up. But it was the same dear old cafe. We hadnt planned on going there initally but we really needed something low key and non gourmet. It hit the spot.....the food and the house wine. We had a carafe each of the white, rose, and red. It was easily the cheapest meal of the trip.
Driving through France
Another vote for Beaune from me. A delighful little town with many reasonable accommodations and food options. Ma Cuisine sounds like what you are looking for in the way of food for dinner and stay at LeCep. Its one of the "better" places in town but not that expensive. But there are many more budget accommodations to chose from.
I love Reims but its quite a big-ish city. Not too overwhelming though and it has a good feel.
Time to kill before the Eurostar
Whenever I go to Paris I go to both. If I had to choose......? I always seem to buy more at Bon Marche than Gal Laf but Im sure thats because I have already been to Bon Marche first and bought almost everything there.
Gal Laf does seem closer, but no direct connex to Gare du Nord. If you can walk to St.Lazare RER from Gal Laf then take E to Magenta there is access to Gare du Nord from that station if you dont mind tunneling underground for a while
Foodie Souvenirs from Italy
A few weeks ago there was a thread in the France forum about what food items people bring home from France. It got me thinking about Italy. When I think about bringing home stuff from Italy, not nearly as many things come to mind. Pecorino, "00", anchovies in salt, maybe but Italy is more of a eat-it-while-you're-there place. So I'm just interested. What do you all find it worthwhile to bring back.
Are There No Good, Inexpensive Places In Paris?
I am American and recently returned from a trip to France. What I tried to keep reminding myself is that the price of things wasnt inordinantly expensive. Its just that the dollar is so weak. If our dollar was not so weak 30 Euro wouldnt seem materially more expensive that in some of our larger cities here in the states. You cant really expect them to lower their prices because the US dollar is weak. 30 Euro is not mid-range.
IMO I think it will be hard for you to eat in the $8 - $10 range. Perhaps 8 - 10 Euro.....but not dollars. I did not encounter any place with prices like that although they MAY exist.
25 year old girls, foodies, but cant spend too much..
I have to disagree with the l'Ami Louis recommendation. Its not budget in any sense of the word - even if you share dishes. If you are considering L'Ami Louis you should read the other thread on it. I think one poster mentioned the foie gras was 70E.
Perhaps the person who posted that meant l'Ami Jean in the 7e. You might not be able to get a dinner reservation there at this late date but you might try at lunch. Show up just before noon and you might get in.
Paris - how far in advance to make reservations?
You wont have a problem finding places open at 10:00. Anyhthing before 8:30 is considered early. Chez l'Ami Jean is VERY popular. I would not wait for the concierge.
Paris on a budget
There are lots of threads on budget recommendations if you do a search. You may make your own discovery in the 15e. This arrondissement is less touristy than many of the others and prices should be less touristy as well. The hostel will probably have some nearby cheap reco's.
You can get a fairly inexpensive phone from Orange and FNAC (chain stores all over the place). Its not as easy as just buying a prepaid phone (ie Bourne Ultimatum). You have to have a credit card though. But clearly the least expensive option would be to get a phone card from a tabac and use public phones.
Report from Paris: Cafe des Musees, Le Troquet, L'os a Moelle
I just finished reading Patricia Wells book We've always had Paris. In it she describes how when she was a food critic she would go into a restaurant anonymously and always made reservations in her maiden name so she would not be recognized. She explained that in France, food critics usually announce themselves (well....Michelin does it anonymously too) . This would support what you are saying about Pudlo. Its very possible they knew who he was and pulled out all the stops. One more thing in favor of Michelin.
Foodie Souveniers from Paris
Regarding the crocks of fresh mustard from Maille. You have to put it in your suitcase. They pack it fairly well though. I had one in my suitcase that made it home fine. My BF's leaked but his suitcase wasnt packed as tight as mine. Also from Maille, I get their mayonaise that is in the refrigerator section of grocery store. And their Fins Gourmet mustard. They dont sell this "flavor" in the US.
I like all the different types of sugar they have there. I love the rough cut brown sugar cubes. Yes you can get it here but its 3X more expensive. Also got some cute white sugar cubes in different shapes - hearts, diamonds, clover, spades. And some dark brown sugar cubes like rock candy. Very cool. Of course you need to get one of those roll-top sugar bowls like they have in every bistro and cafe.
I like to go to a regular corner shop and get regular stuff like flour, yeast, and vanille sucre that comes in packets. Also Maggi Fond de Volaille and Fond de Veau. Lavender honey - it costs alot there, but costs a fortune here. Noirmoutier Fleur de Sel. Salt from Noirmoutier is supposedly the BEST! Lotus Speculoos, other brands are not as good. Butter -- everyone is raving about Bordier butter but I still prefer Echire. Comes in a cute little basket. If you refrigerate it until you leave it will be fine. French butter is more dense than US better and it doesnt get all greasy. Fleur de Darjeeling from Mariage Frere. They dont sell this particular one in the US. I like to get anchovies packed in salt. They are actually Italian - not French but I couldnt find them this time. In the past they;ve had them at Galerie Lafayette. Also couldnt find Bar Le Duc. Absolutely too expensive here. Maron Glace if you can find them--theyre usually an Autumn thing but in the past they;ve still been around in the spring. The ones from Laduree are really good--the ones from Debauve & Gallais are not.
These are not foodie things but since I'm at it I thought i'd mention it. I love Tonigencyl toothpaste. Gets your teeth really clean - though doesnt taste so good. La Petit Marseillais shower gel. I used to be able to find it here but not anymore. Plus it costs nothing there. I picked up 12 bottles this time.
Botched reservation at Chez L'Ami Jean
That is disappointing and your feelings are understandalbe but I cant blame the native speaker for not understanding the foreigner. Its unfortunate that places like L'ami Jean are not set up for faxing or e-mailing reservations, where its all in writing and there can be no dispute.
On the other hand, dont be too disappointed by l'Agassin. Its an up and comer among many foodies in the know. I was in Paris in May and really wanted to go there but my schedule wouldnt allow it.
which are the hottest new neo-brasseries?
I think the buzz over chateaubriand is dying down. I havent heard anything about that place in months.But dont take my word for it. Anyway, Spring is open for lunch sometimes but the hours keep changing. I was there on a friday. As of May, it is closed Sunday & Monday and Saturday is only for private parties. Lunch was so good, I wanted to come back for dinner.
which are the hottest new neo-brasseries?
Chamarre is closed but I wouldnt have called it a brasserie in any case. I dont know about neo-brasseries but if "neo" is what you are looking for you should definitely try for a spot at Spring in the 9e and Le Bigarrade in the 17e. They are not brasseries but both are very hot. I had lunch at Spring in mid-May and it was fabulous-probably my most memorable meal for the whole experience. The owner is American - most (not all) diners that day were American. Only 16 covers so you must book way way in advance. I called the second week in April for mid-may and could only secure lunch. There is no menu to speak of. You just sit down and you get whatever they are serving that day. Probably not a good idea if you are picky eater, because sometimes it can be a little esoteric.
Le Bigarrade is the same type of deal only I found the staff to be not so nice. Still I would go back for the food. It was that good. It was a trek deep into the 17e from where I was staying the 7e but it was so strange and good I would happily make that trek again. It was easier to get a table there. Our first choice was Saturday dinner. They were full on Saturday but we were able to book a Monday dinner.
If you are really into wine, I can also recommend Il Vino (the place that used to be Chamarre). There you order the wine and then they bring the food that goes with the wine. Some of the wines might be unknown to American palates so I wouldnt go here unless you are very familiar with old world wines. Part of the "fun" was trying the guess the wines as we didnt chose our wines but instead chose the blind tasting menu where you dont know what the wines are. The food here was really good but might be considered a bit ordinary by "neo" freaks.
CHEZ L'AMI LOUIS
Thanks Allwol for posting prices. And how much for the famous roasted poulet de Bresse?
If you only had one night in Beaune, where would you eat?
I dont know if you are going to be able to blow their mind in Burgundy. I love the cuisine there but it just isnt mind blowing. Now if you can make it down to Troisgras......I have a foodie friend who has his mind blown there on a regular basis. (I've never been).
Re: Le Montrachet. I had lunch there in mid-May. They had some interesting things like artichoke creme brulee. It was very good if a bit wierd. The whole meal was very good. Solid but not mind blowing.
Re: l'Ecusson. I also ate here mid-May. My meal there was exquisite BUT it was a little bit depressing. There were only two other tables with patrons - the whole night. Each of the other tables had 3 people and my table was 2. One wonders how they stay in business when closer to the city center they are turning people away at Ma Cuisine and La Ciboulette. I'm sure they would do better in the tourist area.
3 nights in Beaune - good value recs?
La Ciboulette is also a good value place and its open on Sunday. Totally agree about Ma Cuisine. Great ambiance, great location. Make sure you book ahead. When I was there in mid-May, they were turning people away who showed up w/o reservations.
Le Pre Catelan to Musee Marmottan - on foot?
I havent been in the Bois lately but several years ago a female friend and I (I am also female) walked from La Muette to the Pre Catalan. Even though we were conservatively dressed, a man tried to pick me up. The Bois is (or used to be) a place where one culd procure the services of "ladies" of the evening (or in this case - the afternoon). I wouldnt go with him, and while this seemed to frustrate him, I did not feel threatened or in danger. I never had an issue when walking in the Bois with a male companion. As I said, I did not feel in danger but I mention it because it was a little bit surprising at the time. There were quite a few "ladies" lurking not far from the Pre Catalan by the time we left which was still the middle of the afternoon. I think if you are with a man, you will have no issue at all.
