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Vienna - Grade my Homework

Hi Kurtis,
The terrine you enjoyed was most likely also made from Tafelspitz ! It is a very popular dish called "Tafelspitzsulz" and ist served with pumpkin seed oil and green salads. Definitely a must when visiting Austria !!

BTW: when you found that Zwölfapostelkeller was inexpensive and had decent food, how could this be a tourist trap ??
In fact, this is a popular place with locals, who also like the Esterhazykeller and the Melker Stiftskeller, similar places also lokated in the inner city.

May 13, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Need Advice re: Vienna

Thank you very much for your reply to this antique thread !!

BTW: Vienna postings are now listed in the Europe board. Maybe you would like to open a new thread there telling us more of your recent experiences in Vienna ?

May 11, 2015
Sturmi in International Archive

Vienna - Grade my Homework

The Kameel has a very old interior, real fin-de-siecle, and offer classic Viennese dishes. Price range is rather high. Service can be spectacular - or lousy. So dinner can be an experience - both ways.

May 06, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna - Grade my Homework

Close to your hotel is the Unger&Klein wine bar on Rudolfsplatz, a great place to end the day !

For lunch never forget the canapés at Zum Schwarzen Kameel or at Trzesniéwski ...

May 05, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Hi Strumi, (VIENNA) Your leads back in 2008 brought me to some great meals in Vienna, looking for some advice again.

Hi Porto,
Just a few more comments about Austrian wines:

Climatic change has had a dramatic influence on Austrian wines: the whites get heavier, richer and also sweeter, but the local taste develops in the opposite direction: everybody wants a light and dry white. So some famous areas like the Wachau have now a small problem: you have to grow the Grüne Veltliner in new vineyards and convert the old ones to other grapes, even to red ones...

Link: http://diepresse.com/home/leben/ausge...

A tip for getting adequate quality for a fair price: ask for a "Weinviertel DAC". This Grüner Veltliner will not disappoint, even when from a small, unknown winery.

Austrian reds, OTOH, get better every year. The grape Zweigelt is now the most interesting one !

Apr 23, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Hi Strumi, (VIENNA) Your leads back in 2008 brought me to some great meals in Vienna, looking for some advice again.

Hi Porto,
Yesterday we again dined at Petz. This time it showed once more how chaotic their reservation system is. You might remember that we had tried in vain to get a reservation by phone or by mail and finally settled to reserve in person: our daughter managed to get a table for herself and her husband for lunch on a saturday a few weeks ago and fixed us a table for April 18. When we arrived yesterday on time our reservation had been lost. But it seems that this is the rule, because the waiter was extremely helpful and asked us for five minutes to sit at the bar and offered each of us a - free - glas of sparkling wine. We got a table two minutes later and did not have a feeling that anyone arriving after us really had trouble finding a table. Most tables were not turned twice during the evening. Maybe some people just do not show up after having reserved a long time ago...

The menu this time was less focused on offal and more on fish, reflecting Petz´s policy of offering what the market provides. I had a great smoked black salmon as a starter, our friends hat tripes and a great ceviche from mullet, served with papaya and vegetables, very aromatic and not to spicy. My wife again had a beef tartare. As main course the ladies both had filet of char, I had a entrecote served with morels, pieces of ox muzzle and and potatoe cake, and my friend had a octopus with broccoli. Quite simple dishes, no "tinker cuisine", but excellent because of the quality of ingredients and perfect preparation. For dessert my wife again chose the apricot crepes, the men had a "Gusshaus Kaffee" a small espresso served with chocolates, a piece of cake and a small shot of brandy. All you need. And the wife of my friend had a wonderful tarte tatin, served hot an topped with some icecream.

The best was the bill: despite ordering a la carte we were only charged for a three course menu of 38.- Euro each, and with the two bottles of Grüner Veltliner the sum was 232.- Euro for the four of us (excluding tipping). Quite a fair price. The service was very friendly and helpful, but understaffed. We once had to refill our glasses ourselves, I had to get up and fetch the bottle from the cooler, and I noticed it had too much water and not enough ice to keep the bottle cool enough...

There is once thing I noticed about the wine list: Petz offers mainly Austrian wines and a few French, Italien and German ones. The list is ample and seems OK; but when we looked for older vintages of Austrian wines there were none. The Loimer Terassen Kamptal DAC Reserve 2012, a Grüner Veltliner with a lot of body and taste, simply tasted flat. It has not a cork but a glass top, which should keep the wine in perfect shape, but maybe even in its short life of just three years it has not been stored in the way you should keep your wine. Just another hint that Austrians do not really favor vintage wines...

Well, you always get what you pay for, and for a fair priced meal you might make compromises...

A week ago we also dined with two other couples at Konstantin Filippou. There we had the six course menu each, and four bottles of wine and paid 1130.- (excluding tipping). The six dishes were of course much more elaborate than at Petz, each dish consisting of at least a dozen different ingredients. But the service was also understaffed, and the sommelier was not very helpful when we asked to start with a light and dry white wine and switch to richer variations later on. We started with an Italian Gargegna, which was too sweet for a "light and dry" white wine, and then changed to a french Sauvignon Blanc, which was OK, and finally managed to get a great Austrian wine, a Pot de Fleurs 2011 from Jurtschitsch, which was light and fruity and would have perfectly been the wine to start with (and maybe stay with through the diner). For dessert we had a German riesling, which was OK for the dessert but not a remarkable wine. Their wine list seems quite eclectic, I missed the basic Austrian wines you might want to drink if you do not want to drink only the rich, elaborate high-end wines...

In summary, for both of these quite popular places there is room to grow. Even with a great chef you still need a large enough service staff to serve all parties without to much waiting for small things, e.g. tap water. And you definitely need a person familiar with wines...

Apr 19, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Cafes and Konditorei in Vienna

Great Post !

I have a few comments:
re Sachertorte (ST): I do not know HOW you ate your ST. The correct way to eat a ST is with a generous helping of whipped cream. Only when you always top a piece of cake with some whipped cream you get the right taste...

re Apfelstrudel: you are definitely correct.
BTW: The best Apfelstrudel is always the hand-pulled one of your grandmother made with the apples from her garden...

re Rori´s: This patisserie is far from "out of the way". This area east of the Naschmarkt is maybe Viennas most interesting area, and offers - beside other shops, cafes and restaurants - at least two more great patisseries:
Fruth on Kettenbrückengasse and Wiedner Haupstrasse:
Süssis Salon de The on Operngasse

Out of the way is another great new patisserie, the Hill on gentzgasse:

Apr 18, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Wien - Dinner recommendations - week of April 20-25

Naschmarkt is now just a giant tourist trap. I wonder whether you will enjoy it...

And maybe you should not look for postings regarding Wien, but Vienna !!
Just look here:

Apr 14, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Wien - Dinner recommendations - week of April 20-25

In this case Kuschker44 is an excellent - and smoke-free - choice. Enjoy the evening !!

Apr 14, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Wien - Dinner recommendations - week of April 20-25

I wonder why you picked Kutschker 44 to dine before the opera, unless you are visiting the Volksoper, which is within walking distance of Kutschker 44....

But if you are visiting the State Opera, you would rather like a place closer to the opera. To dine early in the evening I would recommend three places in the immediate neighbourhood of the State Opera:
Do&Co Albertina,
Sachers Rote Bar
or Gasthaus zur Oper by Plachutta:

Smoke free is getting easier: there will be a total ban on smoking. In 2018. But there will be incentives for places which turn smoke-free earlier...

Many restaurants are now open all day, so you can get a late lunch or early dinner without any reservation. One nice place like this is the Servitenwirt, who also offers a very nice open air dining area in the piazza on front of the nearby church:

Apr 14, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Wien - Dinner recommendations - week of April 20-25

Wow, you really have outdated infos.
Please make another search for more recent posts !!

But let me give you just the info on the places which do not exist any more:

Meinl am Graben was off the record for some years now, but has now slowly recovered and can be recommended especially for its location, and for the chance to get a table without reservation many weeks in advance.

There is a newcomer in the high-end field: Konstantin Filippou. Despite his greek name he is Austrian, and his cuisine is a very personal modern cuisine. His place is very small and very informal, and I like it better than Steirereck or Palais Coburg.

Re Palais Coburg: Christian Petz left many years ago, and now the chef de cuisine is Silvio Nickol. The ambiente of the new Palais Coburg is less impressive, the food is high-end tinker cuisine, but their selection of great wines is unbeatable.

But Petz is still one of the best cooks in Vienna and has now opened a low-end beisl of his own. If you like high-end variations of offal (brain, lung, liver, kindey or tripes), you should not miss Petz im Gusshaus !

Zum weissen (!!) Rauchfangkehrer was, is and will be an overpriced tourist trap.

Huth has opened another new place in an old location: the Stadtkrug. They try to revive old Viennese traditions which are still alive elsewhere (Eckel, Sacher).

Wirtshaus im Palais Kinsky has changed name and owner a few times, I have no idea what is offered there today.

Immervoll has moved to the outskirts of the city, but his partner Pöschl stayed and renamed the place to Gasthaus Pöschl, and is reliable and a great pleasure.

Zur schwarzen Katze also moved, even twice, and is now called Zwischenbrückenwirt, and ist still an interesting place for inventive Viennese cuisine at a very fair price level.

Cantina e l´arte also closed, but reopened two years later as Cantina Osteria Friulana on another street. Definitely recommended for an early dinner of northern Italian cuisine and great wine...

The rest of the list of old-style beisl is valid.

Apr 13, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Hi Strumi, (VIENNA) Your leads back in 2008 brought me to some great meals in Vienna, looking for some advice again.

Today we dined at Cantina Friulano. This place gets better every day, the chef and owner Toni Mimra offers simple but great Northern Italian osteria cuisine.

I had a warm salad of calf's head, served with barba di frate (monks beard). My wife just had a few vegetable antipasti. As main course I had grilled octopus "polpo" with a sauce of morels , served with a piece of polenta, and my wife a lasagne filled with radicchio tardivo di Treviso and apple slices…
The dessert was a gabarica, a soft soufflé made with poppy seed…
With a bottle of white house wine and a single espresso the bill was 68,- Euro for the two of us…
Hard to beat !

Mar 30, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Hi Strumi, (VIENNA) Your leads back in 2008 brought me to some great meals in Vienna, looking for some advice again.

Demel is even better than Landtmann !
But Demel is not a Kaffeehaus, it is a high-end pattisserie.

If you do not like offal, maybe you will change your opinion after eating at Petz…

Mar 30, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Hi Strumi, (VIENNA) Your leads back in 2008 brought me to some great meals in Vienna, looking for some advice again.

Just returned from our first dinner at Petz, here are my first impressions (we will return April 18):

This is really a small and crowded place. Quiet "gemütlich", but better ask for a table in the non-smoking section…

The food is Petz at its best, especially if you order some of his offal dishes. I had as starter an Asian version of tripes ("Pfefferkutteln"), no sauce at all, spicy, garnished with small shrimp chips and a deep fried spring roll: yummy, but definitely unViennese !
For main course I took the calf brain omelette ("Kalbshirn mit Ei und Morcheln") with fresh morels, boiled potatoes with butter and parsley ("Petersilkartoffel") and a green salad. This is classic Viennese cuisine, perfectly presented (see image).
As dessert we had "Marillenpalatschinken", thin crepes with apricot jam.

The rest of the party had beef tatar as starter and Backhendl (deep fried chicken) as main course. The beef tatar was nicely spiced, but the chicken was overfried and dry...

Considering the low price level the food is quite OK, but you cannot expect the "wow" factor of prior Petz menues at Meinl am Graben and Palais Coburg. And you have to pick the few signature dishes on the menu, and rather stay away from classic dishes you can get everywhere in Vienna...

Mar 29, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Hi Strumi, (VIENNA) Your leads back in 2008 brought me to some great meals in Vienna, looking for some advice again.

Mayer am Pfarrplatz is more of a standardized heurigen, it is run as a bigger enterprise than a usual family heurigen.

Wieninger is family owned, one brother is the winemaker, the other brother and his family make the food for the heurigen. So in regard of authenticity, Wieninger wins. And Wieninger wines are also known as first rate premium wines, there are no better whites and reds grown inside of Vienna !

Mar 18, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Hi Strumi, (VIENNA) Your leads back in 2008 brought me to some great meals in Vienna, looking for some advice again.

Yes, this time of the year is a great time to visit a heurigen, and Wieninger and other heurigen, preferably in the Stammersdorf area, offer an authentic setup, great simple food and homemade wine.

Pfarrwirt is NOT a heurigen, but a real good traditional and bourgeois restaurant, but next door to Pfarrwirt is Mayer am Pfarrplatz, an old and venerable heurigen, and both places are owned by the same rich old man, which explains why they share a homepage ...

Question: what is FK ??

Mar 18, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Hi Strumi, (VIENNA) Your leads back in 2008 brought me to some great meals in Vienna, looking for some advice again.

Maybe you just should get a tasting menu, if available.
Petz is a great chef, and his specialty is an unusual combination of food items:
- he does not make a vitello tonnatto with tuna, but rather uses cod liver mousse ("Vitello dorschato").
- another signature dish of Petz is a stew of veal tripes with clams ("Kalbskutteln mit Vongole).

But anything he creates tastes great - and different…
And his soups are also to die for !

Mar 12, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Hi Strumi, (VIENNA) Your leads back in 2008 brought me to some great meals in Vienna, looking for some advice again.

June might be warm and sunny. So, depending on what you will do on this day, I would choose a nice place with outdoor service for lunch !!

Cafe Central does not have an outdoor area. If you want to stay in this area, you could go to Cafe Landtmann, and enjoy the sun with a great view of the Ringstrasse.

Another place for an outdoor lunch would be the Meierei im Stadtpark,
or the Do&Co Albertina:

And for the chowhound:
Outdoor setup of Reinthaler in Gluckgasse or Dorotheergasse, for the authentic Viennese feeling:

Do not forget where to lunch when visiting the Belvedere:
The Restaurant Sperl (not the Cafe Sperl located someplace else!!):

Mar 10, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Hi Strumi, (VIENNA) Your leads back in 2008 brought me to some great meals in Vienna, looking for some advice again.

Rudi's Biesl or Gasthaus Pöschl? Gasthaus Pöschl: better location, better for late lunch or early dinner

one Coffeehaus?
Cafe Landtmann, but you might need a reservation for the lunch hours and for the evening after 5 p.m.
But you might also try Gerstner at the Kunsthistorische Museum, which is located in the first floor, right under the dome.

one Pastryhouse?

We'll definitely will try to book Petz and FK.

Would you say it would be better to dine at Lugeck over Figlmuller (we have a reservation for the Backerstrasse branch)?
Bäckerstrasse is oK and maybe now less busy than the recentyl opened Lugeck, which is just across the street...

Mar 09, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Hi Strumi, (VIENNA) Your leads back in 2008 brought me to some great meals in Vienna, looking for some advice again.

Places you family might have fun:
Schweizerhaus: this is the largest beer garden in town, and reopens March 15. Their signature dish are grilled pork knuckles, but you can also get grilled chicken or Wiener Schnitzel made from pork. And Budweiser beer from the tap. Real Budweiser from Budovice...

The Donauturm: http://www.donauturm.at/en/restaurant...
terrific location, food edible but overpriced

Meierei im Stadtpark: the lower cost restaurant of Steirereck, they have a wonderful view over the Stadtpark, and a great choice of Viennese classics and French cheese.

Cafe Gloriette: great view over Schönbrunn, and decent food:

Mar 08, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Hi Strumi, (VIENNA) Your leads back in 2008 brought me to some great meals in Vienna, looking for some advice again.

Hi Kay,

Here are my comments and suggestions:

Rudi's Beisl or Gasthaus Pöschl - is there much difference between the two? Well, there are some differences and some similarities:

similar: both places are small and crowded, Rudi even smaller and crowdier. Both places offer classic Viennese food. Reservation recommended for both..

location: Pöschl is centrally located, Rudi is somewhat out of the way.
opening: Rudi closes in the afternoon, Pöschl is open all day

Cafe Central, Cafe landtmann, Cafe Sperl
All are recommended, each one is a unique place. And you can have lnch or dinner as well, reservation recommended but not required.

Figlmuller - for the schnitzel (is this worth a visit?)
Yes ! Figlmüller has expanded: there is the old small beisl in the passageway, small and crowded, and there are two large places nearby, Lugeck being the most visible one.

We are also looking for a restaurant for my Dad's birthday - nothing too fancy, but we'd like very good food with reasonable prices. We were thinking Petz Im Gusshaus or Konstantin Filippou --- would lunch do justice?

Petz is quite inexpensive, but the hottest place in town, reservations are hard to get. They do not answer the phone, and do not reply to emails…

Fillipou is a theatrical presentation of very refined food, actually a high-end gourmet heaven, maybe not suitable for children because the food is something they will never have seen or tasted before…
And it is not expensive for what you get, but the menu is pricey because of its ingredients…
Lunch at Fillipou, OTOH, might be an experience !

For a family affair would recommend Pfarrwirt: great location, ample space, great classic Viennese food.

If there is any "must-try" restaurant, please let us know. We are looking forward to our trip!

As a tourist, you are interested in local food, not some, Italian, French, Greek, Indian or Asian fusion or modern international. So what you need is place in an unique location, where you can feel the city and get great food at the same time. And these two are hard to find in the same place…

So what exactly do you expect in a "must try" place ??
Food, locatioon or ambiente ?

Mar 08, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna Trip Report - February 2015

Congratulations !
No question: you did it: the perfect Vienna experience...

Mar 03, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna - need goulash and fruit dumpling help...

I agree with both points:
- you always are on the safe side when reserving a table in advance, and in advance usually means just a few hours earlier ...

- The "Fiakergulasch" is beef goulash with a single Wiener sausage (locally called Frankfurter), a fried or poached egg and a pickled cucumber on top. Definitely recommended...

Mar 01, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Hi Strumi, (VIENNA) Your leads back in 2008 brought me to some great meals in Vienna, looking for some advice again.

Hello Porto,

Just checked your list. Basically all these places are still there, and operating in the same way they did in 2008.

Some comments:
Zum finsteren Stern: unchanged, but this may be a negative touch: they do not offer something new…
OTOH, ZFS is especially nice when you can dine outdoors !

Zu ebener Erde und erster Stock
Still working. Have not been there for years...

There is another new place in Spittelberg, rather trendy and expensive restaurant, but has also a nice bar and cafe, open all day:
It is called Kussmaul: http://www.kussmaul.at/en/

EF 16 Restaurant Wweinbar
Have never been to these two places, but their website sounds interesting.

Beim Czaak:
Same good old Viennese classics. If we prefer Gasthaus Pöschl, it is because of their location...

Kolonitz Beisl:
definitely only for hard core chowhounds, who want to try their Zwiebelrostbraten or Blunzengröstl. Nice when outdoor dining is available.

Yes, Pfarrwirt is still doing great meals.
Pfarrwirt is high end traditional Viennese cuisine, definitely recommended especially for larger parties and special occasions.

Cantina Osteria Friulana
opens early, fills rapidly …

Nice seafood !

Trzeszniewski Sandwiches for lunch snacks
Yes !!

Konditorei Heiner for Dessert (Strudel) and Coffee Melange or do you still prefer Aida
Aida has mote outlets, but Heiner is high-end…

Some new openings in Vienna:

The best chef in town, Christian Petz, has opened a low-prize beisl: Petz im Gusshaus
High-end cuisine at beisl prices. Unbeatable, and definitely full every day, but you can drop in and sit at the bar…

Gasthaus Stadtkrug:
An old place has reopened. The Huth family tries to create high-end classic Viennese food: http://www.huth-stadtkrug.at

And close to your hotel, another high-end newcomer has opened, with very fair lunch offers: http://www.konstantinfilippou.com/en/...

Feb 24, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Hi Strumi, (VIENNA) Your leads back in 2008 brought me to some great meals in Vienna, looking for some advice again.

Hello Porto,
Please be patient, will answer your request in two or three days...

Feb 23, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna - need goulash and fruit dumpling help...

Great goulash Viennese style is available in many places.

The usual suspects are Rudis Beisl, Gasthaus Pöschl, Gasthaus Wolf, Gasthaus Meixner, Restaurant Sperl, Glacisbeisl, Gasthaus Reinthaler, Gasthaus Heidinger (our favorite) and many more. Not to forget the many Kaffeehäuser, each of them offering their own version of goulash...

OTOH, there is a big problem with fruit dumplings in March !

Fruit dumplings are only available in season. In July and August you will get apricot dumplings ("Marillenknödel"), and in September and October you will get plum dumplings ("Zwetschkenknödel"). No honorable cook would offer you a variety with deep frozen fruits, although you can get several deep frozen versions of apricot dumplings in any supermarket…

I see a compromise: you could go e.g. to Gasthaus Heidinger and ask for Powidltascherl. This is a dumpling filled with plum jam, and is really great ! And available 12 months a year !


I just checked: also the Cafe Landtmann, a venerable institution and located right in the city center, will not only serve goulash, but also Powidltascherl (they call it "plum jam ravioli") 7 days a week…


Feb 21, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Solo diner in Vienna

And here are two more options for dining at the bar, in high-end places: Konstantin Fillipou and Christian Petz both offer dining at the bar, and you might even just drop in without any reservation…


The new place of Christian Petz, a small, no-frills beisl with - most likely - the best food in town is heavily booked for weeks, but keeps a space open at the bar for people like you !

Feb 08, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Solo diner in Vienna

Cantina Friulana is a very nice place, but very popular. So it will be crowded, but the very helpful waiters will squeeze you in at the bar !

Feb 07, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Solo diner in Vienna

You can expect helpful waiters and no problems !!

If you want not to sit alone on a table you might want to check places where it is possible to sit at the bar and eat dinner. There are quite a few places who offer this option (all in the 1st district):
Gasthaus Pöschl, open all day…
Weinbar Meinl am Graben (in the basement, entrance from the Naglergasse)
Weinbar Unger & Klein, Rudolfsplatz
Osteria Cantina Friulana, Bartensteingasse
and many else…

Another option might be to dine in a traditional Kaffeehaus, such as Landtmann, Mozart, Engländer etc.. Kaffeehäuser are very informal, and many people sit there solo. And nobody will talk to you, contrary to when sitting at the bar !

Feb 06, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Solo diner in Vienna

How old are you, and are you male or female ??
And where will you stay, in which district of Vienna ??

Having this info will make it easier to help you with suggestions...

Feb 06, 2015
Sturmi in Europe