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4 days in Munich and 4 in Vienna?

Hello VAfoodie,
Yes, when will you be on Vienna, where do yo stay and what are your planned activities besides of eating interesting things ?

about 22 hours ago
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna dining report

The char you had at Steirereck is called Saibling or Bachsaibling. It is considered to be the best fish from local waters !

Jul 13, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna dining report

A "salmon trout" is just an ordinary rainbow trout which has a salmon-colored meat because of its major food source: crayfish. Of course this is just an assumption, since many "salmon trouts" are from fish farms, and their salmon color might be just a clever marketing gag...

At "Zum Schwarzen Kameel", on the other hand, you might indeed have eaten some wild-caught salmon from one if the many clear rivers in Austria...

Jul 12, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna dining report

Hi Wendyrobin,

Congratulations ! You did it. The perfect Vienna experience.
I am sure you now want to come back and get more of it !!

Jul 11, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna: Sturmi, anything new?

Hi kukubura,
Great story !
You definitely need no help at all for finding delicious food here in Vienna !!

Jul 10, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Hi Strumi, (VIENNA) Your leads back in 2008 brought me to some great meals in Vienna, looking for some advice again.

Hi Porto,
Great to hear you enjoyed your stay in Vienna and the dinner at Petz !!

Jul 06, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Strumi/Vienna: Special Dinner

No, your experience was not the only bad one...
So, the owner hired a second chef, a great talent, Jacqueline Pfeiffer, who is now presenting her dishes alongside the creations of Christian Domschitz !

We enjoyed Pfeiffers cuisine last year in her former place of work, Le Ciel, and I guess the Vestibül is now worth visiting ...

Jul 06, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Strumi/Vienna: Special Dinner

vanderb, I totaly agree with you !!

But you know, some people love this old-world charm, some are frightened by it, and some simply hate it...

BTW: there is another old-style restaurant which has a different, less belle-epoque than Anna Sacher and more art-nouveau style interior, and serves the same Viennese classics of high quality:
Zum Schwarzen Kameel
http://www.kameel.at/en_restaurant.php

Jul 03, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Strumi/Vienna: Special Dinner

Vestibül, Anna Sacher and Sacher Rote Bar are all very Viennese, but also quite formal. In fact my wife and I got engaged to marry in the Sacher cafe over coffee and apfelstrudel , and we also celebrated my graduation there in the Anna Sacher restaurant, but all this happened about 40 years ago, and there are now more choices available...

For a more intimate setting I would maybe recommend Walter Bauer, a small high-end place with a very eclectic new Viennese menu and a new chef de cuisine with a great CV.
http://www.falstaff.at/gourmetartikel...

or - again - the Restaurant of Meinl am Graben, because of its location, its great view from one of the window tables, and its excellent food, and in spite of the fact that the food crowd is still avoiding this place. This is not caused by the performance of the crew, but more by the name: Meinl is still center of a bank scandal...
http://www.meinlamgraben.at/content.a...
http://www.falstaff.at/restaurantdeta...

And maybe you should also consider Konstantin Fillipou. His place is very simple and informal, but also small, and the tasting menu is a real experience. No molecular cuisine, and no raw food, but very refined compositions with a very personal style. The only downside might be his wine list, which is heavy on "natural wines"....
http://www.konstantinfilippou.com/en/...
http://www.falstaff.at/restaurantdeta...

BTW: Falstaff is the Austrian version of Zagat. A very good copy of Zagats system, but no connections...

Jul 02, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

one-day visits to Salzburg, Vienna and Bratislava--recommendations?

Brunnenmarkt on a Monday morning might be a little bit disappointing. The "good" market stands are only operating on Friday and Saturday, on Monday all you can get is cheap vegetables and fruits and some overripened hard cheeses...

Jul 02, 2015
Sturmi in Europe
1

one-day visits to Salzburg, Vienna and Bratislava--recommendations?

Indeed, "yes" is the correct answer to your questions !

Vienna is full of inexpensive places where you can get quite decent food, local or ethnic, and 7/24. No need to make any detour for Rebhuhn, especially since they do not have a nice outdoor dining area !

BUT: shops are all closed on Sunday !

Regarding the option of buying provision the only place where you can buy basic food items on a sunday are supermarkets on train stations and in the largest hospital, the AKH, but the selection is limited to prepacked food items. I would rather wait for monday morning, and then buy the food on Naschmarkt. Quite a few places on Naschmarkt have excellent cheese, ham, sausages and other cured meats, such as Pöhl and Urbanek, which both are on the same lane just a few meters apart. And the Gradwohl bakery will sell you great dark bread.

Jul 02, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna: Sturmi, anything new?

Had to stop because work was calling, and it is now too late to edit the prior post...

Back to hot food:
We still like the northern Italian fare from Toni Mimra Osteria Friulana and Raetus Wetter Cucina Wetter:
http://www.cantinafriulana.at/index.php
http://www.wettercucina.at

But if you want the real down-to-earth Viennese stuff, there is no way beyond Heidingers Gasthaus: http://www.heidingers.at
And yes, they have an English menu !!

And one more thing:
If it is cold and rainy, and you would want to feel the Mediterrean spirit of fresh wild-caught fish: there is help. A small place, basically a one-man show of Croatian seafood cuisine: http://www.nenosfeines.at

Jun 30, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna: Sturmi, anything new?

Hi kukubura !

Great to hear from you !!

Yes, there are a few new places you might want to try out:

High-end:
Konstantin Fillipou has opened a bistro called "O Boufes" next to his high-end three star restaurant. Definitely a place to try !
http://www.konstantinfilippou.com/de/...

Low-end:
Patrick Müller has opened a no-frills outlet called "punkS". Any dish just 4.50 !
https://www.facebook.com/punks8

Badeschiff has reopened, a great location on the Donaukanal, just beside the pop-up "Slow Taco"
http://prostmahlzeit.wien/wp-content/...
http://www.tclb.at/projects/slow-tacos/

Last years open air pop up place by the same people is now a year round place for Texan BBQ: http://www.brickmakers.at

If you want to stick to local food, try Petz im Gusshaus:
http://www.gusshaus.at
Christian Petz is master of offal. Recommended

The new local hype is vegan ice-cream. Several new ice-cream places are all over town: http://www.format.at/leben/essen-trin...
http://www.veganista.at/?Page=40
http://www.heilingeis.at/aktuelles.html#
https://www.facebook.com/gefrorenes

Back to hot food:
We still prefer Toni Mimra Osteria Friulana and Raetus Wetter Cucina Wetter:

Jun 30, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

one-day visits to Salzburg, Vienna and Bratislava--recommendations?

Sunday night in Vienna is difficult, but there are at least two places close to the Pilgramgasse station which are open on a sunday, and even have outdoor dining options and are therefore great for dinner on sunday:

The inn "Zum Schwarzen Adler"
http://www.schwarzer-adler.co.at

and the Kaffeehaus Rüdigerhof
http://www.falter.at/web/wwei/detail/...
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant...

BTW: Both are open all day...

Jun 29, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Critique my Vienna and Salzburg picks, pls

Re white horses: you are correct about their summer retreat, but - as you can see in the link I posted on June 24, they resume their daily morning exercise on August 4. So it will mainly be a problem to get tickets...

Re Hundertwasserhaus: we live nearby and are quite astonished about the huge crowd assembling there every day. There is nothing more to see than a crumbling example of his eccentric manieristic style. Take a look at the pictures of this link and you can save an hour for more rewarding sights.
https://www.google.at/search?q=hunder...

I would rather visit St.Stephens Cathedral, climb the stairs or take the elevator up one of the towers and get a great view over town...

Jun 28, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Critique my Vienna and Salzburg picks, pls

First of all: get rid of your car once you reach Salzburg or Vienna. Both are old cities, difficult to navigate for outsiders, thus it is better to walk or use public transport.

I assume that you have three days for Vienna. Making a city tour on the first day is a good idea, and there are two easy, always available tour procedures:

The hop-on-bus lines:
https://www.viennasightseeing.at/en/h...

The Ringstrasse tram line, operated by Wiener Linien, the public transport company, with a single stop on Schwedenplatz (!!):
http://www.wienerlinien.at/eportal2/e...

Schönbrunn is not only the old imperial castle, but also a large baroque style park, the Gloriette pavillon on top of the hill, the oldest zoo still in operation and the museum of carriages.
http://www.schoenbrunn.at/en.html
http://www.kaiserliche-wagenburg.at/en/
https://www.zoovienna.at/en/zoo-and-v...

The Kaffeehaus in the Gloriette
http://www.gloriette-cafe.at/en/locat...
and the Imperial Pavillon (Kaiserpavillon) in the zoo are two options for lunch when visiting Schönbrunn.
http://zoovienna-gastro.at/unsere-bet...

You mention the Mozart house and the house of music. Both are qite interesting, but I would also recommend the imperial treasury
http://www.kaiserliche-schatzkammer.a...
and the spanish riding school, where you can watch the morning exercise of the "white horses":
http://events.wien.info/en/1c4/the-li...
For lunch in this area, there are several kaffehäsuer nearby:
http://www.cafe-hofburg.at
http://www.cafegriensteidl.at

Jun 24, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Critique my Vienna and Salzburg picks, pls

The places in Vienna you have picked are all nice, but are all quite outside of the main attractions.

So: what activities have you planned while in Vienna ??
Maybe it would be convenient to eat someplace closer to where you plan to be...

Jun 24, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna with 6 month year old

In the summer Vienna is a giant outdoor dining area. Literally everywhere you go you will find a nice place to sit, eat and drink. In the shade.

Where do yo stay and what are your plans, where do you want to go ?

Jun 03, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna - Grade my Homework

Hello Ziggy,

Great report !!

I agree about the Cafe Central, and can add some info regarding this Kaffeehaus: It is owned by a very old and very, very rich man, Karl Wlaschek, who started a supermarket chain after the war, sold it a few years ago and doubled his fortune by investing locally in real estate. He likes to eat and drink, and therefore does employ a great chef at Cafe Central. This team also provides catering at other Wlaschek places, such as the great baroque Palais Daun-Kinsky across the street from Cafe Central. This palace has a great ballroom, where 250 years ago Mozart played the piano for the duke Kinsky.

We had the wedding dinner for our daughter right there in this room, and enjoyed a wonderful traditional Viennese four course menu, prepared by the chef of Cafe Central. And this unbeatable location was priced quite fair...
http://www.palaisevents.at/en/palaisd...

BTW: if anyone else has the need for a seafood dinner after too much Wiener Schnitzel: there is a very small Croatian seafood place, where you can get the real thing: large seabass, halibut or scorpionfish, line-caught and shipped right from the Dalmatian islands, prepared on the grill, under a crust of salt or "alla cartoccio", braised with vegetables
http://www.nenosfeines.at/our-menu

May 28, 2015
Sturmi in Europe
1

Vienna - Grade my Homework

Hi Kurtis,
The terrine you enjoyed was most likely also made from Tafelspitz ! It is a very popular dish called "Tafelspitzsulz" and ist served with pumpkin seed oil and green salads. Definitely a must when visiting Austria !!

BTW: when you found that Zwölfapostelkeller was inexpensive and had decent food, how could this be a tourist trap ??
;-)
In fact, this is a popular place with locals, who also like the Esterhazykeller and the Melker Stiftskeller, similar places also lokated in the inner city.
http://www.zwoelf-apostelkeller.at
http://www.esterhazykeller.at
http://www.melkerstiftskeller.at

May 13, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Need Advice re: Vienna

Thank you very much for your reply to this antique thread !!

BTW: Vienna postings are now listed in the Europe board. Maybe you would like to open a new thread there telling us more of your recent experiences in Vienna ?

May 11, 2015
Sturmi in International Archive

Vienna - Grade my Homework

The Kameel has a very old interior, real fin-de-siecle, and offer classic Viennese dishes. Price range is rather high. Service can be spectacular - or lousy. So dinner can be an experience - both ways.

May 06, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna - Grade my Homework

Close to your hotel is the Unger&Klein wine bar on Rudolfsplatz, a great place to end the day !

For lunch never forget the canapés at Zum Schwarzen Kameel or at Trzesniéwski ...

May 05, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Hi Strumi, (VIENNA) Your leads back in 2008 brought me to some great meals in Vienna, looking for some advice again.

Hi Porto,
Just a few more comments about Austrian wines:

Climatic change has had a dramatic influence on Austrian wines: the whites get heavier, richer and also sweeter, but the local taste develops in the opposite direction: everybody wants a light and dry white. So some famous areas like the Wachau have now a small problem: you have to grow the Grüne Veltliner in new vineyards and convert the old ones to other grapes, even to red ones...

Link: http://diepresse.com/home/leben/ausge...

A tip for getting adequate quality for a fair price: ask for a "Weinviertel DAC". This Grüner Veltliner will not disappoint, even when from a small, unknown winery.

Austrian reds, OTOH, get better every year. The grape Zweigelt is now the most interesting one !

Apr 23, 2015
Sturmi in Europe
1

Hi Strumi, (VIENNA) Your leads back in 2008 brought me to some great meals in Vienna, looking for some advice again.

Hi Porto,
Yesterday we again dined at Petz. This time it showed once more how chaotic their reservation system is. You might remember that we had tried in vain to get a reservation by phone or by mail and finally settled to reserve in person: our daughter managed to get a table for herself and her husband for lunch on a saturday a few weeks ago and fixed us a table for April 18. When we arrived yesterday on time our reservation had been lost. But it seems that this is the rule, because the waiter was extremely helpful and asked us for five minutes to sit at the bar and offered each of us a - free - glas of sparkling wine. We got a table two minutes later and did not have a feeling that anyone arriving after us really had trouble finding a table. Most tables were not turned twice during the evening. Maybe some people just do not show up after having reserved a long time ago...

The menu this time was less focused on offal and more on fish, reflecting Petz´s policy of offering what the market provides. I had a great smoked black salmon as a starter, our friends hat tripes and a great ceviche from mullet, served with papaya and vegetables, very aromatic and not to spicy. My wife again had a beef tartare. As main course the ladies both had filet of char, I had a entrecote served with morels, pieces of ox muzzle and and potatoe cake, and my friend had a octopus with broccoli. Quite simple dishes, no "tinker cuisine", but excellent because of the quality of ingredients and perfect preparation. For dessert my wife again chose the apricot crepes, the men had a "Gusshaus Kaffee" a small espresso served with chocolates, a piece of cake and a small shot of brandy. All you need. And the wife of my friend had a wonderful tarte tatin, served hot an topped with some icecream.

The best was the bill: despite ordering a la carte we were only charged for a three course menu of 38.- Euro each, and with the two bottles of Grüner Veltliner the sum was 232.- Euro for the four of us (excluding tipping). Quite a fair price. The service was very friendly and helpful, but understaffed. We once had to refill our glasses ourselves, I had to get up and fetch the bottle from the cooler, and I noticed it had too much water and not enough ice to keep the bottle cool enough...

There is once thing I noticed about the wine list: Petz offers mainly Austrian wines and a few French, Italien and German ones. The list is ample and seems OK; but when we looked for older vintages of Austrian wines there were none. The Loimer Terassen Kamptal DAC Reserve 2012, a Grüner Veltliner with a lot of body and taste, simply tasted flat. It has not a cork but a glass top, which should keep the wine in perfect shape, but maybe even in its short life of just three years it has not been stored in the way you should keep your wine. Just another hint that Austrians do not really favor vintage wines...

Well, you always get what you pay for, and for a fair priced meal you might make compromises...

A week ago we also dined with two other couples at Konstantin Filippou. There we had the six course menu each, and four bottles of wine and paid 1130.- (excluding tipping). The six dishes were of course much more elaborate than at Petz, each dish consisting of at least a dozen different ingredients. But the service was also understaffed, and the sommelier was not very helpful when we asked to start with a light and dry white wine and switch to richer variations later on. We started with an Italian Gargegna, which was too sweet for a "light and dry" white wine, and then changed to a french Sauvignon Blanc, which was OK, and finally managed to get a great Austrian wine, a Pot de Fleurs 2011 from Jurtschitsch, which was light and fruity and would have perfectly been the wine to start with (and maybe stay with through the diner). For dessert we had a German riesling, which was OK for the dessert but not a remarkable wine. Their wine list seems quite eclectic, I missed the basic Austrian wines you might want to drink if you do not want to drink only the rich, elaborate high-end wines...

In summary, for both of these quite popular places there is room to grow. Even with a great chef you still need a large enough service staff to serve all parties without to much waiting for small things, e.g. tap water. And you definitely need a person familiar with wines...

Apr 19, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Cafes and Konditorei in Vienna

Great Post !

I have a few comments:
re Sachertorte (ST): I do not know HOW you ate your ST. The correct way to eat a ST is with a generous helping of whipped cream. Only when you always top a piece of cake with some whipped cream you get the right taste...

re Apfelstrudel: you are definitely correct.
BTW: The best Apfelstrudel is always the hand-pulled one of your grandmother made with the apples from her garden...

re Rori´s: This patisserie is far from "out of the way". This area east of the Naschmarkt is maybe Viennas most interesting area, and offers - beside other shops, cafes and restaurants - at least two more great patisseries:
Fruth on Kettenbrückengasse and Wiedner Haupstrasse:
http://www.fruth.at
and
Süssis Salon de The on Operngasse
http://www.suessi.at/index.html

Out of the way is another great new patisserie, the Hill on gentzgasse:
http://www.hill-restaurant.at/pat

Apr 18, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Wien - Dinner recommendations - week of April 20-25

Naschmarkt is now just a giant tourist trap. I wonder whether you will enjoy it...

And maybe you should not look for postings regarding Wien, but Vienna !!
Just look here:
http://www.chow.com/search?q=Vienna&a...

Apr 14, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Wien - Dinner recommendations - week of April 20-25

In this case Kuschker44 is an excellent - and smoke-free - choice. Enjoy the evening !!

Apr 14, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Wien - Dinner recommendations - week of April 20-25

I wonder why you picked Kutschker 44 to dine before the opera, unless you are visiting the Volksoper, which is within walking distance of Kutschker 44....

But if you are visiting the State Opera, you would rather like a place closer to the opera. To dine early in the evening I would recommend three places in the immediate neighbourhood of the State Opera:
Do&Co Albertina,
http://www.doco.com/en/restaurants/do...
Sachers Rote Bar
http://www.sacher.com/hotel-sacher-vi...
or Gasthaus zur Oper by Plachutta:
http://www.plachutta-oper.at/en/gasth...

Smoke free is getting easier: there will be a total ban on smoking. In 2018. But there will be incentives for places which turn smoke-free earlier...

Many restaurants are now open all day, so you can get a late lunch or early dinner without any reservation. One nice place like this is the Servitenwirt, who also offers a very nice open air dining area in the piazza on front of the nearby church:
http://www.servitenwirt.at

Apr 14, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Wien - Dinner recommendations - week of April 20-25

Wow, you really have outdated infos.
Please make another search for more recent posts !!

But let me give you just the info on the places which do not exist any more:

Meinl am Graben was off the record for some years now, but has now slowly recovered and can be recommended especially for its location, and for the chance to get a table without reservation many weeks in advance.

There is a newcomer in the high-end field: Konstantin Filippou. Despite his greek name he is Austrian, and his cuisine is a very personal modern cuisine. His place is very small and very informal, and I like it better than Steirereck or Palais Coburg.
http://www.konstantinfilippou.com/en/...

Re Palais Coburg: Christian Petz left many years ago, and now the chef de cuisine is Silvio Nickol. The ambiente of the new Palais Coburg is less impressive, the food is high-end tinker cuisine, but their selection of great wines is unbeatable.

But Petz is still one of the best cooks in Vienna and has now opened a low-end beisl of his own. If you like high-end variations of offal (brain, lung, liver, kindey or tripes), you should not miss Petz im Gusshaus !
http://www.gusshaus.at/speisekarte/

Zum weissen (!!) Rauchfangkehrer was, is and will be an overpriced tourist trap.

Huth has opened another new place in an old location: the Stadtkrug. They try to revive old Viennese traditions which are still alive elsewhere (Eckel, Sacher).
http://www.huth-stadtkrug.at

Wirtshaus im Palais Kinsky has changed name and owner a few times, I have no idea what is offered there today.

Immervoll has moved to the outskirts of the city, but his partner Pöschl stayed and renamed the place to Gasthaus Pöschl, and is reliable and a great pleasure.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Gastha...

Zur schwarzen Katze also moved, even twice, and is now called Zwischenbrückenwirt, and ist still an interesting place for inventive Viennese cuisine at a very fair price level.
https://de-de.facebook.com/pages/Zwis...

Cantina e l´arte also closed, but reopened two years later as Cantina Osteria Friulana on another street. Definitely recommended for an early dinner of northern Italian cuisine and great wine...
http://www.cantinafriulana.at

The rest of the list of old-style beisl is valid.

Apr 13, 2015
Sturmi in Europe