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Vienna help please. Some atypical questions...

Just checked again: the new bar at Mariahilferstrasse is still smoke free !

Sep 26, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna help please. Some atypical questions...

Wein & Co tried to get smoke-free, but had to start smoking again, after their customers stayed away…

And the Sacher Blue Room is not the only smoke-free hotel bar in town !! The new Pearl bar in the Park Hyatt also is smoke free, but they have a cigar lounge next to the bar: http://www.vienna.park.hyatt.com/en/h...

Sep 26, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna help please. Some atypical questions...

I found something which might be of interest for you: here is a website AND iPhone App which presents a map and list of all smoke-free cafes and restaurants in Vienna: http://da.stinkts.net/rauchfreie-loka...

Sep 25, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna help please. Some atypical questions...

1) I would like to buy an Italian-language book of pastry recipes for an Italian friend.

Try amazon.it
There is no Italian bookstore in Vienna. Italy is so close, anyone interested buys there.

2) Smoking policies in Vienna are the business of the Viennese but I am nonetheless hoping to find a top notch wine bar/vinothek in the city that is completely smoke-free.

No. All bars are smoking only.

3) Is the branch of Trzesniewski in the Rochusmarkt as good as the main one?

Yes. And no, not all their canapés have egg salad on top.

4) Do Viennese actually eat Kaiser rolls?

Yes, they do. And here it is not calles Kaisersemmel, since all rolls are of this type. You might have a machine made or a hand made...

4) Doing research on this board I saw comments that the restaurants in the museums are good choices.

Albertina: Do&Co Albertina: high-end lounge type restaurant. Viennese and Japanese cuisine.
KHM: Gerstner. High-end cafe. Have you enjoyed your stay at Cafe Sabarsky at Neue Galerie in NYC? You will like it there.
Leopold Museum: Cafe Leopold: mix of Asian and Mediterrean as well as Viennese specialties. Lots of Strudel...

5) Sturm and schnapps: Is October a good time to drink sturm?

Well, actually September is better, but October you will still get Sturm at Urbanek in Naschmarkt " He has Sturm all year round…

Schnapps: I do not like schnapps either. OTOH, there is a large number of high-end schnapps burners around. The best are the ones from Rochelt, available at Vinothek St.Stephan, right in the center of town.

Sep 25, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Memorable meal in late November, anywhere in Europe?

What is "great weather" ?
In Austria this summer had 30 days with temperatures higher than 30° C, but because of heavy and frequent rain the weather was considered to have been "awful".

In November there might be a lot of sun, a little bit of rain and some early snowfall. Actually quite charming when experienced with the right waterproof outfit. And yes, November is also quite some kind of "high season": the feast of St.Martin on November 11 is celebrated not only on this day, but all through November, and the main point of this feast is the meeting in restaurants to share in the pleasure of consuming huge servings of 1. roast goose with red cabbage and potatoe dumplings and 2. the new young white wine (not yet "Heurigen" but "Staubiger", because it is bottled before filtration, and appers "dusty").

And yes, Landhaus Bacher is most likely one of the best addresses to have roast goose, but please phone in in advance for this special request, the servings of roast goose usually are strictly limited and have to be reserved in advance...

Sep 21, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna restaurant recommendations

What about Zum Finsteren Stern ?http://gaultmillau.at/guides/restaura...

And Do&Co Albertina ?

And the Le Ciel at the Grand Hotel was always a great choice for dining as well...

Sep 16, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna "gastro" Beisels/Gasthauses?

No, they do not offer a detailed online menu. This would be uncool...
Wolfs menu changes daily, and includes new inventive versions of classic snacks (average 5 Euro), as well classic and newly invented starters and main courses for 7 to 20 Euro.

Expect Viennese standards such as Rindsgulasch, "Schweinswiener" and Kalbsbeuschl, as well as more demanding items such as brain or testicles (when in season). Wolf always has a few vegetarian dishes, and great desserts !! Zwetschkenknödel should now be in season…

Wolf also has a great wine list by the glass, and is heavily booked every day.

BTW: Another place fitting the "gastropub" category is Zum Finsteren Stern.

Sep 12, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna "gastro" Beisels/Gasthauses?

The best and only "gastro pubs" in Vienna definitely are Gasthaus Wolf and Freyenstein: http://www.gasthauswolf.at

There are several others which want to fit that category, but I would call none of them "elevated by technique":

Sep 11, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Backerei in Vienna

Actually most of their bread is made with sourdough !
and look for sauerteig ...
But maybe they were sold out when you came..

Sep 01, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Backerei in Vienna

There are several types of bakeries:
The "average" neighbourhood bakery has closed. Very few good old-type bakeries are still operating, one is Grimm, hidden in 1.,Kurrentgasse and 2.,Untere Augartenstrasse:
The other is Mühlenbrot, with quite a few outlets conveniently located:

A very special niche is the one found by Schrammel: they have a shop in 4., Paniglgasse, and they sell in supermarkets as well, and have real great bread: http://schrammel-brot-wien.at/verkauf...

There are quite a few "new style" bakeries, two are the most prominent:
Joseph and Gragger, both centrally located.

We always buy at Mühlenbrot and Joseph.

And there are bakery chains:
Anker: http://www.ankerbrot.at
Mann: http://www.dermann.at/produkte/brot/
Ströck: http://www.stroeck.at
Felber: http://www.felberbrot.at
Schwarz: http://www.bswien.at

And these are not that bad at all, Schwarz is maybe the best of these, but you will taste the difference, once you had a piece of Joseph…

And yes, there is also "organic" bread, for the hard-core few:

And if you are looking for a real gem, try this bakery (no website):

And there are also quite a few Turkish bakeries, which offer Turkish and Austrian bread. You find them in residential areas, and one of their advantages: they open on sundays !

Aug 31, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

A Weekday Celebratory Lunch in Vienna

Depending on the size of your party you could contact Steirereck and define a menu which would fit the taste of all attending the party ! For larger groups this is a standard procedure in order to alleviate ordering and service. The ambiente would be perfect for an 80th birthday lunch, no question...

Aug 18, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

A Weekday Celebratory Lunch in Vienna

Why not Kussmaul ?

Open recently on a very venerable location on Spittelberg. Today it was completely booked, even without outdoor service, and all the the other - lower cost and lower standard - restaurants in the street were empty.

We just had dinner there: a very busy and modern ambiente, two small rooms, one close to the bar, the other a veranda. Great food, you may eat a la carte, or have a 4, 6 or 8 course tasting menu. Very young local clientele, great service. And not as expensive as Steiereck. We had four 4 course menues, and really enjoyed the meal. With aperitifs, coffee with spirits and 3 bottles of wine we paid € 350 without tip.


But for a celebration I really recommend something more formal. A great location is the new The Bank at the Park Hyatt Vienna: you eat in large bank hall of the fin-de-siecle, ample space between tables, great service, classic food with a modern twist.


Aug 18, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

One night in Vienna...where to eat?

Steirereck recently reopened after heavy renovation and redecoration. The do now NOT have any outdoor seating places, but rather have many large and removable windows, so that some of the tables are located near a large, sometimes open, window, some not...

You might ask for a window seating, and the window will be open, when the weather permits.

Aug 15, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

One night in Vienna...where to eat?

Hello Kurtis,
Gasthaus Pöschl is an excellent idea. I was not aware they open on Sunday, but it seems that things are slowly improving !

Zum Schwarzem Kameel actually would be a great counterpoint to Pöschl, its ambiente being maybe the most original and interesting fin-de-siecle restaurant interior in town. If your require some vegetarian dishes, it should be no problem if you ask for it when making the reservation. This place has a large kitchen and should be able to fill every request !!

I really have to admit that you have made your homework, and this will be a great day in Vienna !!

Aug 14, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

One night in Vienna...where to eat?

No, you are not.
That is the reason why my primary response was: Everything is closed !! With everything of course I meant: everything worthwhile…

But when smaointe wrote "holy moly", I simply had to use that pun...

Aug 11, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

One night in Vienna...where to eat?

Good Idea !
The restaurant Holy Moly is open on Sunday, and quite an experience on a sunny summer evening:

Aug 10, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

One night in Vienna...where to eat?

That depends.
If you like a thick crowd of young people queuing up for hot sausages, fried noodles, gyros and chicken tikka masala, this is the right place…

But wait. That is not all there is: you can also get lobster, steak, crepes, or fried fish, tapas and Wiener schnitzel…

Here is the list of places offering their food on Rathausplatz:

Aug 09, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna guidance - paging Sturmi

Well, you got it !
This website gives you all the information, that is IT !!

Aug 08, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna guidance - paging Sturmi

I do not know whether there still is a NON-TOUTISTY heurigen with ENTERTAINMENT !!

The non-touristy heurigen are small and owner-operated, which means that the wine grower offers his own wine and a - mostly cold - buffet. Any larger place will not be a real heurigen, but a restaurant masquerading as "heurigen" ! And will be definitely a tourist-oriented enterprise...

Wieninger is one of the few exceptions, two brothers specializing, one making the wine, the other the heurigen buffet…

One other interesting heurigen in Stammersdorf is Göbel.

Located the other end of Stammersdorf, Göbel is most likely also exactly on the other end of the heurigen category. More modern, more "BoBo" …

A great review presenting all of heurigen is here:

And yes: Schweizerhaus is a great beer garden !!

Aug 07, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

One night in Vienna...where to eat?

On a Sunday night ???? EVERYTHING is closed !

There will be no "seminal Viennese experience" on a Sunday night !
You could either dine at one of the hotel restaurants, some better, some worse, none exceptional, or at Do&Co St.Stephan or Albertina.

But maybe the best chance for a seminal Viennese experience might be the "Rote Bar" at Hotel Sacher:

Aug 07, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Best heurigens and other wine experiences in Vienna?

Taxis are available 24 hours a day.
Just ask the waiter at the heurigen to call you a taxi !

Aug 05, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna Trip Report

Thank you so much for your report !!
Vienna is a real chowhound playground, for it has so many small and inexpensive places offering really great food, Viennese classics as well as creative modern cuisine …

Aug 04, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Chambre and/or table d'hote in Austria Countryside worth the detour?

How about this: http://landgut.at/Gasthof/start.html

Same region as Seehotel Winkler, but maybe more meat and less fish (but they too have fish on their menu…) !!

And also listed in Slow Food...

Aug 01, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Chambre and/or table d'hote in Austria Countryside worth the detour?

How about this place, which we have been to and enjoyed a lot ?

Or this place, recommended by Slow Food:

And this place not only fits your criteria perfectly, and is located at half the way to Vienna:

Jul 31, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Chambre and/or table d'hote in Austria Countryside worth the detour?

Now I have a clearer picture !

No, Gasthof Eberhard is way out of your itinerary !! It is located on the southern route from Vienna to Klagenfurt, and would be a detour of several hours. Forget it.

On you way from Vienna to Salzburg you will most likely use the A1 highway, which is nice to drive but avoids the more interesting areas such as the Wachau valley. You might therefore decide to rather use the A22 and the the S5 to Krems and then drive along the Danube through the Wachau. There you might stop for lunch at Dürnstein or at Weissenkirchen, where there are quite a few small inns according to your wishes (see prior threads about Wachau !). The go back to Krems and use the S33 to get to the A1 and continue to Salzburg.

Salzburg itself is quite interesting and full of nice restaurants. See prior threads for Salzburg.

Gasthof Kleefeld is in Strobl, a village on the Wolfgangsee lake, right in the center of the Salzkammergut. This is a major tourist area, but not heavily overrun with the exception of St.Wolfgang. The Kleefeld OTOH seems to be a typical Salzkammergut hotel/inn place, of which you might find dozens more in this area. Just go and explore.

Jul 30, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Chambre and/or table d'hote in Austria Countryside worth the detour?

Have not heard about Kleefeld, and there are several villages called St.Michael !

Schloss Fuschl is a high-end hotel, with an old castle as major attraction, but most hotel rooms located in a modern building close by.

Maybe you can give us a hint which Austrian regions you will visit, this will make it easier for us to give you hints !

Jul 30, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Chambre and/or table d'hote in Austria Countryside worth the detour?

I second Gasthof Eberhard, which I have also recommended already quite a few times on this board.

Similar places can be found in the book "Slow Food Österreich", which is available from Amazon:

Last hint:
In the wine growing areas, which cover eastern Austria from the north to the south, there are hundreds of "heurigen", many of which offer exactly what you are looking for.

Jul 29, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Restaurants open Saturday in Vienna

Most restaurants do have non-smoking sections. There are just a few smoking-only places, such as Rudis Beisl, but even there you might be lucky to find that nobody is smoking...

OTOH smoking is allowed in outside dining areas, there is no restriction on smoking when sitting outside!

But if you want traditional restaurants, some smoking has to be part of the scene, since smoking is a greatly appreciated tradition here...


Jul 03, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna for 3 nights

Sorry, this is a misunderstanding !
You were asking for a location for lunch…
Of course Hollmann Salon is perfect for lunch AND dinner, but because of your postings I had to assume that your dinner dates were already fixed...

Jun 28, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna for 3 nights

Skopik and Lohn is nothing special foodwise (was recently downgraded by falstaff.at), it is more a meeting point for the BoBos…

Steiereck is heavily booked. Lunch at Steirereck is NOT outside, they have only an inside seating with large open windows, weather pernitting. Their lower cost Meierei outlet, OTOH, has a few tables outside overlooking the Wien river. But even there reservation is recommended, since the view is great and the food excellent, but not at Steirereck levels.

I recommend again lunch at Hollmann Salon. This quiet corner in the oldest part of the city is a real gem...

Jun 25, 2014
Sturmi in Europe