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Vienna Trip Report - February 2015

Congratulations !
No question: you did it: the perfect Vienna experience...

Mar 03, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna - need goulash and fruit dumpling help...

I agree with both points:
- you always are on the safe side when reserving a table in advance, and in advance usually means just a few hours earlier ...

- The "Fiakergulasch" is beef goulash with a single Wiener sausage (locally called Frankfurter), a fried or poached egg and a pickled cucumber on top. Definitely recommended...

Mar 01, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Hi Strumi, (VIENNA) Your leads back in 2008 brought me to some great meals in Vienna, looking for some advice again.

Hello Porto,

Just checked your list. Basically all these places are still there, and operating in the same way they did in 2008.

Some comments:
Zum finsteren Stern: unchanged, but this may be a negative touch: they do not offer something new…
OTOH, ZFS is especially nice when you can dine outdoors !

Zu ebener Erde und erster Stock
Still working. Have not been there for years...

There is another new place in Spittelberg, rather trendy and expensive restaurant, but has also a nice bar and cafe, open all day:
It is called Kussmaul: http://www.kussmaul.at/en/

EF 16 Restaurant Wweinbar
Valenta's
Have never been to these two places, but their website sounds interesting.

Beim Czaak:
Same good old Viennese classics. If we prefer Gasthaus Pöschl, it is because of their location...

Kolonitz Beisl:
definitely only for hard core chowhounds, who want to try their Zwiebelrostbraten or Blunzengröstl. Nice when outdoor dining is available.

Yes, Pfarrwirt is still doing great meals.
Pfarrwirt is high end traditional Viennese cuisine, definitely recommended especially for larger parties and special occasions.

Cantina Osteria Friulana
opens early, fills rapidly …

or
Konoba
Nice seafood !

Trzeszniewski Sandwiches for lunch snacks
Yes !!

Konditorei Heiner for Dessert (Strudel) and Coffee Melange or do you still prefer Aida
Aida has mote outlets, but Heiner is high-end…

Some new openings in Vienna:

The best chef in town, Christian Petz, has opened a low-prize beisl: Petz im Gusshaus
http://www.gusshaus.at
High-end cuisine at beisl prices. Unbeatable, and definitely full every day, but you can drop in and sit at the bar…

Gasthaus Stadtkrug:
An old place has reopened. The Huth family tries to create high-end classic Viennese food: http://www.huth-stadtkrug.at

And close to your hotel, another high-end newcomer has opened, with very fair lunch offers: http://www.konstantinfilippou.com/en/...

Feb 24, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Hi Strumi, (VIENNA) Your leads back in 2008 brought me to some great meals in Vienna, looking for some advice again.

Hello Porto,
Please be patient, will answer your request in two or three days...

Feb 23, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna - need goulash and fruit dumpling help...

Great goulash Viennese style is available in many places.

The usual suspects are Rudis Beisl, Gasthaus Pöschl, Gasthaus Wolf, Gasthaus Meixner, Restaurant Sperl, Glacisbeisl, Gasthaus Reinthaler, Gasthaus Heidinger (our favorite) and many more. Not to forget the many Kaffeehäuser, each of them offering their own version of goulash...

OTOH, there is a big problem with fruit dumplings in March !

Fruit dumplings are only available in season. In July and August you will get apricot dumplings ("Marillenknödel"), and in September and October you will get plum dumplings ("Zwetschkenknödel"). No honorable cook would offer you a variety with deep frozen fruits, although you can get several deep frozen versions of apricot dumplings in any supermarket…

I see a compromise: you could go e.g. to Gasthaus Heidinger and ask for Powidltascherl. This is a dumpling filled with plum jam, and is really great ! And available 12 months a year !

http://www.heidingers.at

Update:
I just checked: also the Cafe Landtmann, a venerable institution and located right in the city center, will not only serve goulash, but also Powidltascherl (they call it "plum jam ravioli") 7 days a week…

http://www.landtmann.at/en/our-offers...

Feb 21, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Solo diner in Vienna

And here are two more options for dining at the bar, in high-end places: Konstantin Fillipou and Christian Petz both offer dining at the bar, and you might even just drop in without any reservation…

http://www.konstantinfilippou.com/en/
http://www.gusshaus.at

The new place of Christian Petz, a small, no-frills beisl with - most likely - the best food in town is heavily booked for weeks, but keeps a space open at the bar for people like you !

Feb 08, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Solo diner in Vienna

Cantina Friulana is a very nice place, but very popular. So it will be crowded, but the very helpful waiters will squeeze you in at the bar !

Feb 07, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Solo diner in Vienna

You can expect helpful waiters and no problems !!

If you want not to sit alone on a table you might want to check places where it is possible to sit at the bar and eat dinner. There are quite a few places who offer this option (all in the 1st district):
Gasthaus Pöschl, open all day…
Weinbar Meinl am Graben (in the basement, entrance from the Naglergasse)
Weinbar Unger & Klein, Rudolfsplatz
Osteria Cantina Friulana, Bartensteingasse
and many else…

Another option might be to dine in a traditional Kaffeehaus, such as Landtmann, Mozart, Engländer etc.. Kaffeehäuser are very informal, and many people sit there solo. And nobody will talk to you, contrary to when sitting at the bar !

Feb 06, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Solo diner in Vienna

How old are you, and are you male or female ??
And where will you stay, in which district of Vienna ??

Having this info will make it easier to help you with suggestions...

Feb 06, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna guidance - paging Sturmi

Hi jwrobert,
You really have made your homework, and even right now I can assure you that you and your family will enjoy the 5 days in Vienna (and 5 days is exactly what you need !) !
Regarding reservations for a party of 8 I agree with you that this might be advisable, even if you find on arriving in the restaurant that you are the only customers at that time…

Heiner is one of the traditional pastry shops, and their branch on Kärntnerstrasse has a large area in the second floor where you might - with a lot of luck - find a table for 8 without reservation. And yes, they do have a (non-sweet, real "hausmannskost") dish of the day for lunch:
http://www.heiner.co.at/index.php?id=...

Sorry, but I do not know any NeueBerg in Vienna. Do you think about "Neue Burg" ?? Or any of the museums in the Museumsquartier ?

Regarding a visit to a heurigen. The winter season has a lot of charm when visiting a heurigen, since this is what you get right now: the NEW wine from 2014 !
Stammersdorf has always a few heurigen that are open, look up here for the day you want to go:
http://weinort-stammersdorf.at/weinba...

Feb 05, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna - January Trip Report

@vanderb
No question, if you know your way around, you can have great food and a nice glass of wine on Naschmarkt. But next time you spend a sunny saturday try the Yppenplatz farmers market, get a nice Aperol Spritz at Salvia and then lunch at Cucina Wetter…

An fot the best selection of fruit and vegetables available any day you can visit so many small markets around Vienna, you might not even need a car or a bus. We prefer the Turkish vegetables and fruits stand at Kutschkermarkt, who has everything at highest quality when in season, and then get a nice dish of the day at Pöhls cheese kiosk.

Here is a list of all markets:
https://www.wien.gv.at/freizeit/einka...

Jan 22, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna guidance - paging Sturmi

If I had to choose between these two, Steiereck and Nickol, I would rather visit the Steiereck.

But please make a reservation as soon as possible, Steirereck is always sold out for many weeks in advance ...

Jan 22, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna - January Trip Report

@simon
Thank you so much for your report ! It is great to hear that you liked these places and Vienna as well !!

I agree with you about Naschmarkt. And you were lucky to find the Russian kiosk ! The two Viet places mentioned on this board have already moved and are no more part of the Naschmarkt. Naschmarkt is now just a giant food court ripp off...

By Chi has moved to 2., Hollandstrasse:
http://www.tripadvisor.at/Restaurant_...

Pho Sai Gon has moved to 1., Hegelgasse
http://www.phosaigon.at

Jan 21, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna guidance - paging Sturmi

Yes, Saturday and Sunday are difficult days for high-end dining …

Steirereck definitely is a world-class high end place, but you pay for this experience…

Konstantin Fillipou definitely is the same class, but for much less...

Traditional Viennese restaurants I can recommend are:
high-end:
Anna Sacher and Sacher Rote Bar (Rote Bar open 7 days),
Restaurant Eckel in Sievering
Pfarrwirt in Heiligenstadt

down-to-earth and head-to-tail:
Gasthaus Pöschl
Gasthaus Wolf
Rudis Beisel
Gmoakeller
Gasthaus Meixner
Zum Recnizek

Asian style:
high-end:
Unkai

down-to-earth:
On
China Bar
Pho Sai Gon
Kiang wine bar
Chinazentrum Restaurant
Happy and Lucky Buddha
Tsing Tao

But all these Asian places are less authentic than you would find in Amsterdam, London or New York …

Better try Croatian seafood, or Iranian grills, or regional Italian places (see my earlier postings !!).

Check all places for contact details and opening hours here:
http://www.falter.at/web/wwei/

Just enter the name at "Lokalsuche" and click on "suchen" !

Jan 20, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna guidance - paging Sturmi

Hello jfarr,
Both locations offer more splendor than romantic ambience...
Steiereck has now a modern place with great french windows opening to the Stadtpark, but the setup is not a romantic one. And Silvio Nickol has a terrible interior, like from a french Louis de Funes movie of the 60s...

For a romantic setup and high-end gourmet food I would recommend Walter Bauer
http://www.falter.at/web/wwei/detail/...

or less romantic, but also less show-off: Konstantin Fillipou !!
http://www.konstantinfilippou.com/en/...

And a great romantic location are the two smaller window tables of Meinl am Graben, which has now gained also great ratings for its new chef: http://www.meinlamgraben.at/content.a...

Jan 20, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna in January - rustic, traditional places, non-smoking a plus

@BernieMSY: Thank you for the flowers !

And just a small remark to readers who want to visit Rudis Beisl: whereas food, host and ambiente are charming, please keep in mind that smoking is permitted, at least until today (Jan 15,2015) !!

The Austrian government is currently "considering" a 100% ban on smoking in restaurants, but so far small places can choose whether to allow or ban smoking, and Rudis is still "smoking only"...

Jan 15, 2015
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna in January - rustic, traditional places, non-smoking a plus

Brezlgwölb: Nice if you happen to be in the area, but nothing special.

Actually there are quite a few as interesting places in the same spot:
Zum Scherer, a real old Viennese beisl,
http://www.zumscherer.at/html/essen.html

Bodega Marquez, an authentic tapas bar
http://www.bodegamarques.at

Ofenloch: maybe very similar to Brezlgwölb.
http://www.restaurant-ofenloch.at/en/

Zum Finsteren Stern
No homepage. Small place, even smaller kitchen, very indidividual Austrian cuisine, not just the same Wiener Schnitzel you get everywhere...

Dec 10, 2014
Sturmi in Europe
1

Vienna in January - rustic, traditional places, non-smoking a plus

Most places on your list fit your description.

The only place I would avoid is Weisser Rauchfangkehrer, this place is more of a tourist trap than any other place in town.

Within your walking range from St.Ulrich I would recommend the Glacisbeisl,
http://www.glacisbeisl.at/Glacis_Stan...

and for regional Italian there are two places not to be missed:
Cucina Wetter at Yppenplatz (Ligurian cuisine
)http://www.wettercucina.at

and Cantina Osteria Friulana on Bartensteingasse:
http://www.cantinafriulana.at

Croatian seafood is a great idea, you can have the high end:
http://www.aurelius-wien.at
http://kornat.at

and the lower end:
http://www.lubin.at
http://www.konoba.at
http://www.pescaria-konoba.com

And there are many more rustic places offering Austrian food:
Gasthaus Wolf
http://www.gasthauswolf.at

Gasthaus Meixner
http://www.meixners-gastwirtschaft.at

Gasthaus Heidinger
http://www.heidingers.at

These 3 are not as centrally located but offer the real thing...

Dec 09, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna help please. Some atypical questions...

And here some more info about this quite interesting winery:
http://www.freigut-thallern.at/en/the...

Nov 14, 2014
Sturmi in Europe
1

Vienna help please. Some atypical questions...

This apple in a bag called "apple to go" has its own little story: the company formerly know as "Apple Computer" actually sued the owner and operator of the "apple to go" company, but finally had to admit that an apple could be called an apple…
http://kurier.at/chronik/oesterreich/...

Oct 31, 2014
Sturmi in Europe
1

Vienna help please. Some atypical questions...

The Viennese usually tip 5 to 10%, and 10% is for real excellent, outgoing service !! And please keep in mind: this is just a tip, a 10% service charge is included in every single item on the menu anyway!

If you have the feeling that the waiters expect more than 10%: You maybe made the mistake of giving the - maybe correct - impression that you are "just another bloody American tourist who is used to give a 20% tip back home" …

And yes, waiters are quite used to foreign speaking tourists, and English is the least problem for most of them, when the majority of tourists is speaking Chinese, Japanese or Russian. So do not feel you have to tip them more than 10% just because you got some translation of the menu.

BTW: many places, even very simple ones, do have an english-language menu !
BTW2: Italians, at least in Northern Italy, do not tip at all, since the included service charge is in Italy an astounding 18% !! In Italy we just leave 2 or 3 Euros on the table, even for a bill for more than 100.- Euros

P.S.: Here in Vienna we usually tip around 5% for bills of 100+ Euro, even in places were we are regulars. For sums between 10 and 50 Euro we tip about one euro per guest.

Here is even an "official source" for my rules of tipping:
http://www.visitingvienna.com/eatingd...

Oct 26, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna help please. Some atypical questions...

Since you stay in the Landstrasse area you could make it to Rochusmarkt. Open on Saturday until 5 p.m.
https://www.google.at/search?q=rochus...

Oct 24, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna help please. Some atypical questions...

Yes, Brunnenmarkt is interesting !

It is indeed the only market we visit regularly, but only on saturdays when the farmers are having their weekly market on Yppenplatz. During the week there are only the regulars, who have each the same variation of inexpensive fruit and vegetables. On Saturdays there are several farmers presenting their organic food as well as jams, cakes and pastries, but also interesting ethnic food from Hungary, such as sausages made from mangalitza pork and interesting pickles. There is also a bakery from Waldviertel and a great Swiss cheese stand. Open 7 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Regarding restaurants there are several turkish places, Restaurant Kent being the best known traditional one (great stuffed cabbage, great lamb roast, wonderful plates of starters), And Do-An the high-end seafood place, and two excellent Italian places, the La Salvia delicatessen and Cucina Wetter. We are regulars at Kent and at Wetter, who offers a pure Ligurian cuisine …

Regarding Stammersdorf. Just try their excellent webpage, which shows exactly who is open on a given day:
http://weinort-stammersdorf.at/weinba...
Enter a date and click "Absenden".

Oct 23, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna lunch advice

Zum Schwarzen Kameel and Gasthaus Pöschl are the only ones right in the city center, the others (Rudi´s, Gmoakeller and Woraczicky) are not within walking distance of the main tourist attractions.

You need reservations for Gasthaus Pöschl and Rudi´s Beisl for lunch, both are usually heavily booked. But Pöschl does not close during the afternoon hours, so you might have a late lunch after 2:30 p.m. without any reservation ! Also on Sunday !!

And your hotel, the guesthouse Vienna, also has a nice restaurant, definitely worth to stay for lunch !

Oct 19, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Vienna help please. Some atypical questions...

If you are interested in the agricultural parts of Vienna I would recommend to visit the Kellergasse in Stammersdorf, which is one of the few street of wine cellars still in operation like 100 years ago. On a sunny Saturday afternoon you might find that several of the cellars are open and offer snacks and heurigen wine in a simple garden setup. Wieniger and Göbel are the major players, but there are many more and much smaller winegrowers…
http://weinort-stammersdorf.at/weinba...

Depending on when you come you might also visit the pumpkin farmers in the Wienerwald area or the asparagus growers in Raasdorf…
http://www.franzlbauer.at/produkte/it...
http://www.marchfeld-spargel.at/index...

Oct 18, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Trip Report: PRAGUE, VIENNA, BUDAPEST (LONG!)

The Sachertorte is made without any alterations to the recipe since almost 200 years. It was made popular in the 1870s, but was available in similar forms since the early 1700s…

What has changed is eating habits !

Traditionally Sachertorte is also served with whipped cream. Getting a piece of cake with some topping of whipped cream into your mouth makes the cake richer and increases the taste of chocolate. But nowadays everybody is afraid of fat and avoids the whipped cream…

The same might be true for the "bland" Apfelstrudel you had at Demels. Apfelstrudel is also always served with whipped cream or hot vanilla sauce, and this additions enhacne the taste very much.

The oversweet plum compote you got with your Kaiserschmarrn is another story. The correct name for this "plum sauce" is "Zwetschkenröster", and it should definitely not be too sweet, but rather have a rich fruity plum taste.

Oct 08, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Trip Report: PRAGUE, VIENNA, BUDAPEST (LONG!)

The Sachertorte is made without any alterations to the recipe since almost 200 years. It was made popular in the 1870s, but was available in similar forms since the early 1700s…

What has changed is eating habits !

Traditionally Sachertorte is always served with whipped cream. Getting a piece of cake with some topping of whipped cream into your mouth makes the cake richer and increases the taste of chocolate. But nowadays everybody is afraid of fat and avoids the whipped cream…

The same might be true for the "bland" Apfelstrudel you had at Demels. Apfelstrudel is also always served with whipped cream or hot vanilla sauce, and these additions enhacnce the taste very much.

The oversweet plum compote you got with your Kaiserschmarrn is another story. The correct name for this "plum sauce" is "Zwetschkenröster", and it should definitely not be too sweet, but rather have a rich fruity plum taste.

Oct 08, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Le Grand Bal - Vienna NYE

Ctd: Are you aware that the complete city inside the Ringstrasse and beyond will be a giant free ballroom at NYE ??

There will be hundred thousands of people in the street, there will be music of all kind, and food and drink kiosks galore. Especially Italians come to Vienna to celebrate NYE in the streets, and boy, these people know how to celebrate with lot of fun !! The only problem: despite strong laws against people still like to throw firecrackers...

There will also be a lot of special NYE menues in the restaurants, and some might even be enjoyable, although quite pricey. It might be of interest to choose one of the rooftop places with a view:
http://www.leciel.at/index.php?lang=2...
http://www.skybox.at/english/index.html
http://www.schick-hotels.com/das-schi...
http://www.kremslehnerhotels.at/de/re...

Oct 08, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Le Grand Bal - Vienna NYE

The Silvester Ball at Hofburg is a very formal ball. If you like to wear dinner jacket or tuxedo or an evening gown, and if you want to dance Vienna waltz, foxtrot, rumba or cha cha cha, this is where you go.

We have never been to the Silvester Ball at Hofburg, but we have been to Hofburg for other balls, and IMHO Hofburg is a little bit too large for a comfortable setup. I would prefer a smaller scale of ball…

Oct 08, 2014
Sturmi in Europe

Trip Report: PRAGUE, VIENNA, BUDAPEST (LONG!)

Thank you very much for your extensive report !

Re your experiences in Vienna:
Sachertorte is a rather dry cake, heavy on the dark chocolate. Some versions do have a layer of apricot jam in the center, and some do not. All of them have some apricot jam under the chocolate icing. I am sure you got a good quality of Sachertorte at Aida, but maybe it is an acquired taste…
And why did you not try the Sachertorte from Hotel Sacher ?

Correct: Serving speed indeed is slow in many places.
Two reasons: most if them do not expect to "turn the table" twice, and most places do have not enough staff in the kitchen, since cost of employment is high. So you sit and wait…
It might be advisable to order starters, since these might be ready to eat (soups, salads etc.), and you might experience less of a delay for the main course. In Kutschker44 there is only the owner/chef preparing the main courses, and therefore sometimes the wait is longer than expected…

Charging for bread not ordered: this is also called a "cover charge". So you pay even if you do not eat a single pice of bread ! BTW: there is no cover charge in Kutschker44, and you have to ask for bread, which of course you will pay for...

Oct 08, 2014
Sturmi in Europe