I Am the Reverse Coyote

Thanks to Bill Esparza's enthusiasm for Tijuana, I have been able to convince quite a few people to make Tijuana a dining destination. I have been going there for decades and my tales usually brought only blank stares from those I shared my experiences with.

My wife and I have reservations Saturday for Mision 19, our second visit since last May. It is truly a gem but there are so many places to choose from that we could spend quite a lot of time eating our way from hole-in-the-wall to elegant restaurants.

I first went to Tijuana as a 10 year old (way back in the 60s) when my sister took me (against our parents’ orders that she not cross the border with me) and we dined at Café La Especial on Revo. How could Mexican food be so good and so different from home (LA County, which had and has some great stuff)? The restaurant has since closed but the street level taco stand is still dishing out steamed tacos that are simple and irresistible.

A few days later it was street food and restaurants on the beach in Ensenada. (My parents didn’t know for years that we went south against their wishes)

In college at SDSU in the 70s, I didn’t cross the border to drink like my classmates but to eat. Who knew tamales could have fruit and nuts in them? Fish tacos? Had I been one-tenth as entrepreneurial as fellow alumnus, Jack Rubio (founder of Rubios who was inspired by simple Baja food to the point of starting a restaurant chain) I just wanted to go south for another taco. And tortas, one of the best from a restaurant in Tijuana that also had amazing, homemade flan… I have no idea where it was located, just somewhere I wandered into while dragging my children and mother along. Panchos in the suburb of La Gloria for the most incredible roasted chicken.

In the 90s and 00s we started to find non-Mexican food, like La Tabena Espanol (which recently reopened after several years of absence and it is a good as ever). Later, we found Palmazul and we were introduced to the food of the peninsula in a classy yet whimsical setting. Quail, lamb and a variety of shell fish and fish that were as beautifully presented as they were flavorful. Following a mob assassination right out of the Godfather, Palmazul disappeared rather quickly but by then there were scores of places to dine, just not enough time.

The writings of Bill Esparza have led me to explore even more places and to he has help convince more friends and neighbors to spend days focused on food that is remarkably absent from southern California, in spite of such close proximity.

Ringo Gato in Mexico

La Mirada, La Habra, East Whittier???

I find myself in unfamiliar territory on occasion and little on this board that relates to these areas, perhaps for good reason.

Anything worth considering, particularly for lunch?

Imperial Hwy at Beach Blvd is a good starting point.

Ringo Gato in Los Angeles Area

Food and Wine Magazine features Streetgourmetla in Tijuana

My wife handed me the April 2012 copy of Food and Wine, newly arrived in today's mail, opened to a photo of a someone familiar name to Chowhound pages: Streetgourmetla (Bill Esparza).

Congratulations on a flattering article and on keeping our eyes on great places in Baja California, mainland Mexico (and Bogota, Brasil and, of course, Los Angeles).

http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/mexico-travel-a-super-foodies-tijuana-tour

Ringo Gato in Mexico

Recommendations in Colombia

Correct. The cost of the items I was referring to is 25,000 pesos, not 250,000. My bad.

Ringo Gato in South & Central America & the Caribbean

BevMo 5 cent sale Feb 2012- anything worthwhile?

I have found some everyday wines in the past at BevMo's occasional 5 cent sales. If you have any recommendations from the current sale, I would like to know.

Ringo Gato in Wine

Dine LA Jan/Feb 2012 Reviews

We had a great dinner at the Strand House in Manhattan Beach. Great space (perfect for sunsets). Crazy good soup (squash and chestnut with duck) and hamachi crudo (raw fish and buttery avacado- a combo that is hard to beat). Main courses of perfectly cooked (rare) and creatively seasoned hanger steak and flash seared branzino. Desserts were good but the apps and main courses plus the beautiful space and location (especially considering the dive-bar that had been there before) make the $34 charge well worth it. We'll go back and happily pay prevailing charges.

Ringo Gato in Los Angeles Area

Recommendations in Colombia

One more suggestion that is rather improbable. If you are staying in historic, walled Cartegena, then it is unlikely you will venture into Bocagrande unless you want to go to the beach. If, however, you happen visit Bocagrande or your hotel is there (it is only a few minutes by taxi to Cartegena proper), you might look for Isabella’s Coffee (which I believe is on the corner of Carrera 2 at Calle 7 [San Martin]). We went there looking for tea as the nearby Juan Valdez Coffee shop had only coffee. (Bogota branches of Juan Valdez have tea). Isabella’s serves some serious looking desserts and café food including ceviche. In any case, while waiting for the tea we noticed something interesting being prepared. It turned out to be carpaccio. We decided to try it as well as octopus carpaccio. The beef was sliced a little thicker than what I am used to but was otherwise excellent. The octopus was reasonably tender and tasty as well. I think the total cost for the two plates was 250,000 pesos (about $12-13US) and the servings were generous. I wouldn’t necessarily go out of my way to find Isabella’s as we were told the carpaccio was a special menu item that day. But if you are in Bocagrande (and you like carpaccio and raw seafood) it is worth stopping by to see if it is on the menu.

Ringo Gato in South & Central America & the Caribbean

Recommendations in Colombia

My wife and I just returned from Bogotá and Cartegena. We had a memorable meal at the oft recommended Andrés D.C., the Bogotá location of Andrés Carne de Res in Zona T or Zona Rosa neighborhood. Great steaks in a night club/carnival atmosphere. We had a good Italian meal in the charming Usaquén area at Restaurante Il Pomodoro (Calle 117, No. 6-09) and ate at another Usaquén restaurant whose name escapes me. Usaquén is full of interesting shops and what appear to be unique restaurants that may be worth sampling but we didn’t have enough time. In La Candelaria we dined at a restaurant just down the street from our hotel (Hotel de la Opera), El Son de los Grillos (Calle 10, No. 3-60) where the ajiaco (soup) was served creamed and it was quite good. Hotel de la Opera has a notable restaurant as well, Restaurante El Mirador. A local resident advised us to visit Bogotá’s Zona G (Av. Chile) which is reputed to be an emerging gastronomic district but we never made it.

In Cartegena, we liked the live music, food and dining on the balcony overlooking Plaza Bolivar at Monte Sacro. The ceviche and other mixed seafood dishes were good and the whole fired fish with arroz de coco (coastal specialties we tried at a few other restaurants as well) were excellent. We had one mediocre meal at a restaurant I have purposefully blotted from my memory but also ate fine meals at some hole-in-the-wall places; it is hard to go wrong with seafood in Cartegena. There are also dozens of great spots to people watch, have a drink and watch the street performers.

Ringo Gato in South & Central America & the Caribbean

Alamitos Bay Marina Eats and Drinks

McKenna's on the Bay is on Alamitos Bay. The food is reasonably good and certainly better than the Crab Pot or other nearby restaurants. I think you can get by with $40 per person but you may want to hunt down their menu to make sure of the cost.

Ringo Gato in Los Angeles Area

Visiting KL soon- recommendations near my hotels

When you return to KL, you may want to consider a new addition to Heritage Row, Cungdinh relocated from another area to Jalan Doraisamy two weeks ago. It is an upscale restaurant with a bar / night club (Saigon 2). I only sampled a few items. The beef and coconut stew is outstanding, It is served in a coconut shell so the spoon meat can be scraped out, making the rich dish even more delicious.

I was there on Sunday night when the street was quiet so I had a chance to talk to the owner, Van, who is a charming hostess.

Cungdinh
Ground Floor, 36-38-40
Heritage Row, Jalan Doraisamy
www.cungdinh.com

Ringo Gato in China & Southeast Asia

Visiting KL soon- recommendations near my hotels

Thank you so much for your recommendations. Staying in the Mid Valley area would have been a disaster without your suggestions as the malls are packed with fast food outlets. Little Penang and Belanga were quite good.

In downtown, Yut Key, was a great hole in the wall, and right by the Sheraton, as is Papparich. The whole experience at Yut Key was memorable and the food superb. Lot 10 in Bukit Bintang was wild and the fried pork won ton was crisper and had more pork in it that any I have eaten before.

I also went on an epic search for fresh Durians. Due to this weekend being a holiday, I was told the stands that normally sell them were closed. A long drive almost for nothing (the beautiful mountain station and tropical forest were worth it). I tried to find a stand in Brickfields that I heard sells them but it looks like that spot has become a construction site for a high rise, as much of KL seems to be. I finally found some in a market. Luckily it had just been cut and packaged. I was able to go outside, away from anyone who might not want to smell it, and enjoyed myself.

Ringo Gato in China & Southeast Asia

Laja versus Per Se?

Last week, my wife and I took two friends to Valle de Guadalupe. The friends had asked us to arrange the visit to coincide with their return home to the East Coast after a trip to Maui. Our friends are well traveled and live with a view of the New York City skyline from their hillside New Jersey home. They are rather serious when it comes to fine wine and dining. Before we crossed over the border, one friend mentioned their recent dining experience at Per Se, Thomas Keller’s restaurant. She reported that the food was excellent (in spite of what she said was a ridiculous price).

I have eaten many meals over the past several years at Laja and, in contrast to others on this board, have always found it quite good. We brought our friends there for dinner and the following day our friend made an unsolicited comment, comparing Laja to Per Se. She felt the food was equally good and added that the complete experience at Laja was more memorable than Per Se.
I have eaten at Bouchon in Napa Valley but never at Per Se, Ad Hoc or the French Laundry and I make no such comparison. However, I must admit that last week’s meal at Laja was fantastic. More surprising, neither chef Jair Tellez or Andres Blanco were at Laja that night, just the rest of their team members. Impressive.

We stayed at La Villa del Valle which has opened (unofficially) a new restaurant, designed by Alejandro D’Acosta, the brother of acclaimed wine maker Hugo D’Acosta. (He has also designed the wine cellar which is under construction and has to be seen to be believed). The restaurant may have a few bugs to work out but they have just hired up-and-coming chef Diego. Like Laja, this restaurant has organic gardens on site. Previously I believe dinner was only available to hotel guests but the new restaurant is a destination itself. It will have to prove itself as the two or three miles of dirt road between it and Highway 3 are a challenge at night. There is a shorter route off the El Tigre road but it is poorly signed and is not passable during the rainy season.

A plus for la Villa del Valle's restaurant is the price of their Vena Cava wine (made with grapes from their small but expanding vineyard and two of Hugo D'Acosta's vineyards); $25. That is the same price if you buy it from the hotel to take home.

Ringo Gato in Mexico

Visiting KL soon- recommendations near my hotels

I will be in KL soon to check out a business opportunity. I will be staying a few nights in the Mid-Valley area (Boulevard Hotel) and a few nights in central KL (Sheraton Imperial). I would like to find a few places near my hotels where I might get a good sample of the different kinds of food the city has to offer. Recommendations for anything from street food on up will do.

Ringo Gato in China & Southeast Asia

Baja Culinary Fest Oct 5-9, 2011

I was sitting in the dining room just off of the tapas bar so you probably walked by me more than a few times. I did hear people in the tapas bar speaking English. That may have been your party.

You wouldn't recognize me but I have seen you on TV (a food show of course). I have met Jair Tellez and should have recognized him too. The alcohol may have clouded some of my senses, but not my taste buds..

Ringo Gato in Mexico

Baja Culinary Fest Oct 5-9, 2011

My wife and I had the pleasure of celebrating our anniversary at Caesar's in Tijuana last Saturday night (Oct 8). The cocktail and wine-paired, eight course meal, part of the Baja Culinary Fest, was prepared by three notable chefs, Javier Plascencia, Pablo San Román and Juantxo Sánchez. In addition there were two cocktail mixologists and a sommelier.

The event started in earnest at about 8:30PM with a rum cocktail. Later, as courses were served there were two white wines (the first a bone-dry Sauvignon Blanc, the second a blend of Carignan Blanc [I didn’t know such existed] and macabbeo). Later came a palate-cleansing tequila and honey cocktail and then three red wines including one of my favorites, J.C. Bravo Carignan. Dinner concluded close to midnight.

Suffice to say the dishes were beautifully presented and the flavors and textures were a delight, with each dish seeming to outshine its predecessors. The first attached image shows a menu which may give you an idea of the night’s food and wine pairings. There were some gaps between courses that seemed a bit long but overall the pace was good considering the number of drinks and wine poured. Pauses gave us time to consider what we had just eaten and the impossible notion of trying to duplicate similar things at home.

After dinner, the second photo shows the chefs and drink specialists posing for photographs. The chef to the left is Javier Plascencia whose family operates Caesar’s, reputed to be the home of the salad of the same name. I have been there before and the salad, prepared table-side, is quite good but this night was for bold, new dishes.

I regret not having the time to get to other Baja Culinary Fest events as I am sure they were as well done as this.

Ringo Gato in Mexico

Where the Locals Eat: Huntington, Newport, Long Beach NEED RECCS

In Long Beach, the most authentic Mexican place is El Taco Loco #3. Hand made tortillas, great tacos ($1.25) and tortas, meat from parts of the cow you may not be used to eating (as well as pork, chicken and I think some goat too). If you want something other than tacos they have, mariscos, soups including pozole, a red salsa that is usually hot and smokey, even a fresh juice bar just like you'll see in Mexico,

If you order at the counter, meals are brought to you but simple orders (a few tacos, a torta) will be called out by number (listen for the order number in Spanish or you may miss it). A hole in the wall feel. Open late Fri and Sat (I think they stay open 24 hours those two days). It is next to a panaderia, El Sol, if you want some postres like tres leches or flan after your meal.

The neighborhood that El Taco Loco #3 is in is a bit sketchy. Someone may be selling knockoff DVDs and CDs in the parking lot or asking for spare change.

If this unsettles you, go to east Long Beach for a safe, very good but more Americanized meal at Enrique's. It is very popular. Be prepared to wait for a table. If you only want tacos, then this may mot be the place but the pork shank is excellent.

http://www.eltacoloco3.com/index.html

Ringo Gato in Los Angeles Area

Staying at Westin in Long Beach Tonight where to eat or drink..

Two Italian restaurants that are short walks from the Westin are La Traviata and L'Opera. Both are quite good. A short taxi or bus ride away (small red buses, line A) is a more highly regarded Italian restaurant, Michael's on Naples, which might fit the foodie definition better than the other two

http://latraviata301.com/

http://www.lopera.com/

http://www.michaelsonnaples.com/

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L'Opera
101 Pine Ave., Long Beach, CA 90802

La Traviata
301 Cedar Ave, Long Beach, CA 90802

Ringo Gato in Los Angeles Area

Is there any Restaurant that serves a good Buffalo Steak?

I have been told by one of the owners of Lindner Bison that the Library Alehouse in Santa Monica sells their grass fed bison. I haven't been to the restaurant so I don't know what cuts they serve or whether it may be ground bison. Lindner sells at Hollywood and Long Beach (Marina) farmers' markets. I know the Long Beach market is on Sundays.

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Library Alehouse
2911 Main St, Santa Monica, CA 90405

Lindner Bison
Santa Clarita, Santa Clarita, CA 91355

Ringo Gato in Los Angeles Area

Where to buy Wine?

If you are in the area for a month, consider visiting a quirky wine merchant in Newport Beach, JGrady Select. Jerry Grady opens his tiny warehouse only once per week (Saturdays, 1-5PM usually) for sales and wine tasting. For $5.00 he pours several wines (six this week) and always has one additional wine from his private collection that is not for sale but is just to share. This week's newsletter says he is sharing an 1856 Barbeito Boal Madeira. To be honest, he usually pours something far less exotic than a wine from 1856, maybe 1995...

He loves emerging regions and unusual grapes so don't expect too many ordinary bottles in stock. He apparently sells most of his wine by internet only. Wines are moderately priced.

His website- www.jgradyselect.com

If you don't mind a longer drive, I certainly think Wine County in Signal Hill (Long Beach) is worth the effort as others have suggested.
.

Ringo Gato in Los Angeles Area

Picnic & BBQ after Ferry Building Market?

My wife and I are in the area for three days and ,in addition to dining out, multiple times, plan to visit the farmers' market and other vendors at Ferry Building Marketplace Saturday (August 27). We may buy something to BBQ for lunch but don't know where a suitable park might be to do so. We have a travel BBQ so we don't need a park that has BBQs installed but one where cooking would be acceptable. We are staying in the Marina district but don't mind a drive to the right spot.

Thanks for any suggestions you can offer.

Ringo Gato in San Francisco Bay Area

looking for fresh sardines

I buy from them at the Sunday Long Beach and Saturday Cerritos markets but they are in Hollywood, Redondo Beach and a few other sites. They rarely sell previously frozen fish (and identify it as such) and I have never seen them sell frozen sardines.

Ringo Gato in Los Angeles Area

looking for fresh sardines

I got some fantastic, fresh sardines from J & P West Coast Fish at the farmers' market this past weekend. With seven sardines weighing a total of two pounds, they were much bigger than the usual fare. I was hoping to find a sardine ceviche recipe on Evan Kleiman's Good Food podcast (as you referred to) but couldn't find anything. So I grilled them as usual, closed my eyes and pretended to be somewhere on the Mediterranean Sea

Ringo Gato in Los Angeles Area

looking for fresh sardines

J & P West Coast Fish of San Pedro sells at several farmers’ markets and often has fresh sardines. I usually grill them like I recall them from visits to Portugal and Morocco. You might want to call them in the middle of the week to see if they expect any sardines and to find out what markets they will be at. I do know they go to Hollywood but probably no further north or east. 818 681 9748 or marilyn@jandpwestcoastseafood.com

By the way, how did Glendale and Pasadena become the east side?

Ringo Gato in Los Angeles Area

Fresno on a Saturday night

Thank you Fresno Chowhounds for the recommendations. After considering the many interesting suggestions, it came down to a decision between Parma and Trelio. Finally, intrigued by the seasonal and local menu at Trelio, I made a reservation there for dinner and am pleased to say it was a great experience. I cannot think of many regions in the US with such an abundance of fresh vegetables, fruits and nuts as the Central Valley (plus its many ranches). Trelio made great use of the local bounty and we had a wonderful meal in a pleasant setting.

Upon hearing we were going to Trelio, Ray Krause, of Westbrook Wine Farm, gave us a bottle of 2006 Petit Syrah to take along. Trelio has a fairly comprehensive wine selection but does not charge a corkage fee which was a pleasant surprise.

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Trelio
438 Clovis Ave Ste 4, Clovis, CA 93612

Ringo Gato in California

Recommendations for casual eating places that serve organic meat

I don't have a restaurant recommendation but suggest you contact Lindner Bison at
http://www.lindnerbison.com/index.html
I buy their products at my local farmers' market and I believe there is a restaurant in Santa Monica (as well as one in Santa Barbara) that serves their meats. There products are free range, grass fed but probably not certified organic.

Grass fed, free range meats are unlikely to be from animals that had hormones or antibiotics. The organic designation tells you the animals' feed was organic but, more likely than not, they were finished with grains (corn, wheat) and soy which are not part of their normal diet, but they are used because they make the animals fatten up fast. Grains and beans in feed tend to make the cows ill, at which point conventional operations give them drugs (plus the drugs fatten them faster). Grass fed, free range animals don't as a rule, get ill as a group and grow slowly (no hormones).

Grain fed beef, whether organic or factory farmed, have unhealthy characteristics with regard to fat content (too much), fat profile (excess omega-6, deficient omega-3 and no CLA). The cows eat a diet that pushes them into a pro-inflammatory state.

Ringo Gato in Los Angeles Area

Tijuana taco recommendations for KilgoreTrout

I agree that Tacos Salceados is hard to beat. Go there and see how the others compare.

I have been going to Café La Especial since I was 10 years old, (over 40 years). It is in the formerly busy tourist zone on the east side of Av Revolución between Calles 3a & 4a. It has been there since the late 1950s. They make one kind of taco only, a steamed meat taco (I don’t know what kind of meat), served with radish, green onion, marinated carrots and salsa. Get a few extra napkins. About $1.00 each. They also have a full restaurant at another location but for a pure taco experience, stick with this tiny stand.

Ringo Gato in Mexico

Fresno on a Saturday night

I will be attending a wine tasting event at Westbrook Wine Farm (O'Neals, CA off Hwy 41, towards Bass Lake) and then heading south to LA. I would like to have dinner in Fresno. Aside from eating at one Basque restaurant a year or two ago, (Sheppard's Inn in downtown Fresno), I am totally unfamilar with the city's restaurants.

Where might we have a good meal, maybe a glass of wine and keep the bill between $70 to $100 for two?

Our tastes are varied so any categroy of food is worth considering.

Ringo Gato in California

Baja Cusine Touted Again

RIck Bayless and Baja Cuisine are no strangers to Chowhound. Now the current edition of Food and Wine, which arrived in my mail today, has yet another article.

http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/rick-bayless-in-baja

I am off to Tijuana tomorrow for an eating adventure, trying some taquerias and hoping the recently opened La Taberna Española is a reincarnation of the great Spanish restaurant I first enjoyed in 1990 but which closed a few years ago.

Ringo Gato in Mexico

Mision 19 in Tijuana Gets Some Big Attention From the New York Times

My wife and I, along with three friends, had the absolute pleasure of dining at Misión 19 yesterday. It was outstanding on every level. The physical layout and aesthetics of space are modern and urbane. The wait-staff were gracious and presented dishes with choreographed precision that didn’t feel stuffy. The food was beautifully plated and of remarkable quality and taste. We all ordered different items and none of us had a disappointing dish or even one that was just OK. It was todo bien y muy fina.

Along with some innovative cocktails and local wines (from two of my favorites, Roganto and J.C. Bravo), it was one of the best restaurant experiences I can recall. We were there for three and one-half hours. Our waiter, impressed that we had driven two hours from Los Angeles solely to eat a meal there, invited to the kitchen before we left to meet the chef and see the behind-the-scenes-action. I don’t think we could have had a better experience.

We then went to the adjoining wine store, Artnoc, sampled a few wines by the glass, and picked up a few bottles to take home. My wife and I bought a red table wine from Barón Balch'é and a Cabernet Sauvignon from Mogor-Badan. We had a cab called, which came quickly from the nearby Hotel Lucerna, and in a few minutes were crossing through customs (which, on a Saturday, is a complete miracle, as the pedestrian wait can sometimes be well over an hour).

Perfect.

Thanks to those who reviewed this great restaurant previously (including StreetgourmetLA's extensive review on his blog) and motivated me orchestrate a visit.

Ringo Gato in Mexico