A couple years ago, I made the move (along with my husband and two children) from Portland to Oaxaca City. We head to California every year to visit family, but this year we're going further north to PDX as well. I plan to be there July 15th or so for a week. If you want, I could drop off some chocolate with you. We are driving, but I could do everything within my power to keep the chocolate intact and pristine. Also, have you tried the hand-ground chocolate from the market in Ocotlan? Someone wrote about it here, in another thread, and it's incredible. It is not as rock-solid as the Mayordomo chocolate, making it easier to break into and eat as is.
Let me know what you'd like!
I'm a vegetarian/sometimes vegan living in Oaxaca, and the choices here are abundant. I admit that I am not strict about lard but, even if I was, the choices would be numerous. The guidebook veggie standbys are Flor de Loto, Manantial (which has an big Saturday brunch that is typcially half veggie), and Cafe Alex. Maria Bonita has a great mole tlayuda on the appetizer list. Cafe de la Olla is superb for soups and salads; in the past, I loved their Sopa Azteca, but now I am into their squash blossom soup. Street food options include fabulous tamales (ignoring lard) with black bean and epazote, raisins, or pibil. Nearly any restaurant can do a good rendering of chilaquiles without chicken and, if you're into Oaxacan cheese, funky quesadillas spiked with herbs. The markets and fondas will all have options for you, too, though you may have to reinterate that vegetarian truly means "sin carne" absolutely no carne, not even a little bit. Provecho!