I love Ray's for being so much better than it has to be. Yes it's a tourist staple but the food is excellent and there's a long and well-selected list of local wines and beers and it's a favorite of lots of locals here too. There's always good options for wild caught salmon, halibut, and other fresh fish. I've never been but they have cool events with local farmers and foodmakers too. And finally, the setting is truly worth it. Years after you've forgotten the restaurants you ate in on your trip to Seattle you'll remember the view of the jagged skyline of the Olympic Mountains framed against a golden sunset with boats and paddle boarders (and sometimes a seal) gliding by. (That's assuming you come in summer of course). I've only ever been to the upstairs Cafe which feels upscale to me once you get away from the bar area. Downstairs is supposed to be great too and is quite pricey I think and you get great service and great food and the same view (or better) upstairs.